1985 FORD GRANADA battery location

12Extract the retaining clips and pull the
injectors out of the fuel rail(see illustration).
13The sealing rings and retaining clips on all
injectors must be renewed, even if only one
injector has been removed from the rail. The
lower seal fits between the thick and thin
washers at the tip of the injector (see
illustration).
14Commence refitting by coating the injector
sealing rings with silicone grease to Ford spec
ESEM 1C171A.
15Press the injectors into the fuel rail and
secure them with the new retaining clips.
Press the clips home.
16Reconnect the multi-plugs to the injectors.
17Place the assembled fuel rail on the inlet
manifold and press the injectors into their
holes.
18On V6 models, fit and tighten the fuel rail
bolts. Refit the plenum chamber, using new
gaskets, and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the throttle cable(s).
19On OHCmodels, fit the fuel rail bolts but
do not tighten them yet.
20On all models, reconnect the fuel and
vacuum pipes. Tighten the fuel pipe unions.
21On OHCmodels, tighten the fuel rail bolts
to the specified torque.
22Reconnect the multi-plugs which were
displaced during removal. On V6 models,
secure the HT leads to the pressure regulator
bracket.
23On OHCmodels, refit the distributor cap.
24Refit the air inlet trunking.
25On V6 models, refit the throttle linkage
cover.
26Reconnect the battery. Run the engine
and check that there are no fuel leaks.
27Check the exhaust CO level.
DOHC engine
28Disconnect the battery negative lead.
29If desired, to improve access, disconnect
the wiring from the inlet air temperature sensor
in the inlet manifold. Similarly, the throttle
cable can be moved to one side by
disconnecting the cable from the throttle
linkage and the spark plug HT leads can be
disconnected and moved to one side, noting
their locations and routing to aid refitting.
30Slowly loosen the fuel rail fuel feed unionto relieve the pressure in the system. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate
fire precautions.
31Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
32Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Again, be prepared for
fuel spillage.
33Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the top
of the fuel pressure regulator.
34Disconnect the wiring plugs from the fuel
temperature sensor and the fuel-injectors,
noting their locations to assist with refitting.
35Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the fuel rail.
36Lift the fuel-injectors from their locations in
the cylinder head (see illustration).
37Overhaul of the fuel-injectors is not
possible, as no spares are available. If faulty,
an injector must be renewed.
38Commence refitting by fitting new seals to
both ends of each fuel-injector. It is advisable
to fit new seals to all the injectors, even if only
one has been removed. Lubricate the seals
with clean engine oil.
39Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
ensuring that all hoses, pipes and wiring plugs
are correctly connected.
40On completion, where applicable, check
and if necessary adjust the idle mixture.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
41Disconnect the battery.
42Remove the air inlet pipes from the throttle
housing.43Disconnect the link arm from the throttle
housing and unscrew the two bolts which
retain the throttle cable bracket.
44Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the
throttle housing, crankcase vent valve and the
fuel pressure regulator.
45Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
throttle position sensor, engine and coolant
temperature sensors and the idle speed
control valve.
46Extract the six Torx bolts which hold the
air inlet chamber in position.
47Carefully disconnect the fuel-injector
wiring connectors (see illustration).
48Depressurise the fuel system.
49Disconnect the fuel rail feed pipe and the
fuel return pipe. This is best done at the wing
valance and will require cutting the crimped
hose clips.
50The crimped-type clips must then be
replaced with standard worm drive hose clips
on refitting.
51Unscrew the fuel rail retaining bolts and
remove the fuel rail.
52Extract the retaining clips and remove the
injectors from the fuel rail.
53Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure bearing in mind the following.
54Renew all the upper and lower injector
seals, even if only one injector has been
disturbed. Lubricate all new seals with clean
engine oil.
55On models fitted with an early level fuel
pressure regulator, it is necessary to fit a new
fuel inlet pipe to the fuel rail, the new
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•17
4
36.12 Removing a fuel injector from the rail
A Retaining clip36.13 Injector with seals removed36.31 Disconnecting the fuel feed hose
from the fuel rail
36.36 Lifting a fuel injector from the
cylinder head36.47 Disconnecting a fuel injector wiring
connector
procarmanuals.com

24Unbolt and remove the regulator from the
fuel rail. Remove the sealing O-ring and
discard it; a new one must be used on
refitting.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure applying a smear of clean engine oil
to the new regulator O-ring. On models
equipped with a late level regulator, ensure
that the return pipe is securely held in position
by the retaining collar.
26On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times without cranking the engine to
pressurise the fuel system.
27With the system pressurised check all
disturbed fuel unions for signs of leakage.
1The potentiometer is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment, behind
the MAP sensor.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw, then withdraw
the potentiometer and disconnect the wiring
plug.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion adjust the idle mixture.1On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, disconnect the
battery.
2Disconnect the switch wiring connector.
3Slacken and remove the switch from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reverse of removal, tightening
the switch to the specified torque setting.
Carburettor models
All engines except DOHC
1Remove the carburettor or, if preferred, the
final removal of the carburettor from the
manifold can be left until the manifold has
been removed).
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant and vacuum pipes
from the manifold, noting their positions if
there is any possibility of confusion.
4Disconnect the wires from the manifold
heater and the coolant temperature sender
unit.
5Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the manifold.
6Unscrew the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold and withdraw it. Recover
the gasket.
7Before refitting the manifold, make sure that
the mating surfaces are perfectly clean.
8Apply a bead of sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in)
wide around the central coolant aperture on
both sides of a new gasket.
9Place the gasket over the studs, then fit the
manifold and secure it with the six nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque.
10The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Drain the cooling system.13Remove the air cleaner.
14Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold,
noting the locations to assist with refitting.
15Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses from the carburettor. Plug their ends to
minimise petrol spillage.
16Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
17Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, and move them to one side.
18Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
housing and inlet manifold, noting the
locations as an aid to refitting.
19Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the inlet manifold.
20Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage.
21Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
manifold.
22Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the manifold to the cylinder head.
23Lift the manifold clear of the cylinder head
and recover the gasket.
24Recover the two plastic spark plug spacers
from the recesses in the cylinder head.
25If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold by unscrewing the securing
screws.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean and
renew all gaskets.
b)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
c)Tighten all manifold securing nuts and
bolts progressively to the specified torque.
d)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions. Replace all crimp-type hose
clips (where fitted) with standard worm
drive hose clips.
e)On completion, refill the cooling system,
check the adjustment of the throttle cable,
then check, and if necessary adjust the
idle speed and mixture.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC engine
27Disconnect the battery negative lead.
28Drain the cooling system.
29Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
manifold. The number of pipes varies
according to equipment. Label the pipes if
necessary (see illustration).
30Disconnect the fuel-injection harness
multi-plugs at the bulkhead end of the
manifold (see illustration).
31Disconnect the oil pressure warning light
sender wire from below the manifold.
32Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking clear of the
manifold.
40Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
39Fuel rail temperature switch -
removal and refitting
38Mixture adjustment
potentiometer - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•19
4
39.3 Fuel rail components
A Fuel pressure regulator
B Fuel temperature switch
C Fuel rail
D Fuel injectors
40.29 Manifold vacuum pipe T-piece
(arrowed)40.30 Fuel-injection wiring harness plugs
procarmanuals.com

33Remove the distributor cap,unclip the HT
leads and move the cap out of the way.
34Remove the strut which runs from the
manifold to the right-hand side of the cylinder
head. It is secured by two nuts (see
illustration).
35Remove the bracket which joins the base
of the manifold to the left-hand side of the
block. It is secured by four bolts (see
illustration).
36Unbolt the throttle cable bracket. Unhook
the cable inner and move the bracket and
cable(s) aside (see illustration).
37Disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the
injector rail, and the return pipe from the fuel
pressure regulator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage.
38Disconnect the coolant pipe from the baseof the manifold. Be prepared for coolant
spillage.
39Remove the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold to the cylinder head.
There may be an earth strap attached to one
of the studs by an extra nut.
40Carefully withdraw the manifold from the
cylinder head, complete with its associated
fuel-injection components (see illustration). If
the distributor obstructs removal, extract the
manifold front stud by locking two nuts
together on it and thus unscrewing the stud
(see illustration). Alternatively, remove the
distributor.
41Recover the gasket from the cylinder
head.
42With the manifold removed, items such asthe fuel-injector rail and the throttle body
housing can be removed if required (see
illustrations).
43Clean the mating faces of the manifold
and cylinder head. Keep dirt out of the ports
and other orifices.
44Commence refitting by applying a bead of
sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in) wide around the
central coolant aperture on both sides of a
new gasket.
45Fit the gasket over the studs, refit the
manifold and secure with the six nuts and bolts.
Tighten them evenly to the specified torque.
46The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
47Disconnect the battery negative lead.
48Drain the cooling system.
49Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold.
50Disconnect the air inlet hose from the front
of the inlet manifold.
51Disconnect the breather hoses and the
vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold.
52Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) the speed control cable from the
throttle linkage (see illustration).
53Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, noting the locations to aid refitting, and
move them to one side.
54Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan
switch, the engine coolant temperature
sensor, and the temperature gauge sender.
4•20Fuel and exhaust systems
40.34 Inlet manifold-to-cylinder head
bracing strut
40.42a Removing the fuel rail and injectors
from the manifold
40.40a Removing the inlet manifold40.40b Use two nuts locked together
(arrowed) to remove the stud
40.42b Removing the throttle body housing40.52 Disconnect the throttle cable from
the linkage. Speed control cable (arrowed)
40.35 Two bolts (arrowed) secure the
bracket to the manifold; the bolts securing
it to the block are hidden40.36 Unbolting the throttle cable bracket
procarmanuals.com

Models up to July 1990
1The carbon canister is situated in the engine
compartment where it is mounted onto the
right-hand valance next to the suspension
strut mounting.
2To remove the canister first disconnect the
battery negative terminal. If necessary, undo
the two coolant expansion tank retaining
screws and position the tank clear of the
canister to improve access.
3Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister.
4Slacken and remove the mounting bolt and
withdraw the canister from the engine
compartment.
5Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
Models from July 1990
6The carbon canister is situated behind the
right-hand rear wheel where it is mounted onto
the vehicle underbody (see illustration).
7To gain access to the canister, chock the
front wheels then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
8Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
9Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top
of the canister and remove the canister
retaining screw.
10Lift the canister upwards to disengage it
from the mounting bracket and remove it from
under the car.
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the canister retaining
clip is correctly located in the mounting
bracket.1The purge solenoid is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment next to the
suspension strut mounting (see illustration).
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the solenoid wiring plug halves
by releasing the locktabs and pulling on the
plug halves, not the wiring.
4Note the locations of the two solenoid
pipes, and the orientation of the solenoid to
assist with refitting.
5Disconnect the two pipes from the solenoid,
and withdraw the solenoid from the location.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the solenoid pipes are correctly
reconnected, and that the solenoid is correctly
orientated as noted before removal.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1It is generally believed that continuous use
of unleaded fuel can cause rapid wear of
conventional valve seats. Valve seat inserts
which can tolerate unleaded fuel are fitted to
some engines. These engines are identified as
follows:
1.8 litre - S stamped adjacent to No 4 spark
plug
2.0 litre - A, L, P, PP or R stamped adjacent
to No 4 spark plug
2.8 litre - D or E stamped in centre of
cylinder head exhaust flange
2Engines which are marked as above can be
run entirely on unleaded fuel.
3Engines which are not fitted with the specialvalve seat inserts can still be run on unleaded
fuel, but one tankful of leaded fuel should be
used for every three tankfuls of unleaded. This
will protect the valve seats.
4On all models, the ignition timing may have
to be retarded when unleaded fuel is used. For
up to date information consult a Ford dealer.
DOHC engines
5All models can be operated on unleaded
petrol without the need for any adjustments.
Note that models fitted with a catalytic
converter must only be operated on unleaded
petrol, and leaded petrol must notbe used.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
6All engines can be run on 95 octane
unleaded fuel (ie Premium grade unleaded).
7On 2.9 litre models equipped with a manual
gearbox produced after approximately
December 1988 and models equipped with
automatic transmission which were produced
after approximately July 1988, there is no
need to adjust the ignition timing to run on
unleaded petrol. These models can be
identified by their ignition module number
suffixes; on manual gearbox models the
module should have a JA suffix and on models
equipped with automatic transmission the
module should have a BD suffix. Refer to your
Ford dealer for further information.
8On all other earlier models, the ignition
timing must be adjusted before the engine can
be run on unleaded petrol. On these models
the timing must be adjusted by the fitment of
an octane adjustment lead, described in
Chapter 5, Section 23. On both the 2.4 & 2.9
litre engines, the lead should be fitted and the
red terminal earthed; this retards the ignition
timing by 4°from the initial setting of 12°
BTDC, to the correct setting of 8°BTDC.
9Models which are equipped with a catalytic
converter must be run on unleaded fuel only.
46Unleaded fuel - general
45Carbon canister purge
solenoid (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting44Carbon canister (models with
catalytic converter) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•23
4
44.6 Carbon canister location (arrowed) -
models from July 199045.1 Carbon canister purge valve
procarmanuals.com

12When the distributor is at the firing point,
the leading edge of one of the vanes should be
in line with the rib on the sensor (see
illustration). Turn the distributor body slightly
if necessary to achieve this.
13Refit the clamp plate and bolt. Just nip up
the bolt for the time being. Tighten it finally
after checking the timing. Also secure the
support bracket, when fitted.
14Refit the rotor arm, distributor cap and HT
leads.
15Reconnect the distributor multi-plug.
16Reconnect the battery. Run the engine
and check the ignition timing as described in
the next Section.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
Note: The distributor should not be removed
or disturbed without good cause, since the
accuracy of timing achieved in production is
unlikely to be regained. If difficulty is
experienced in setting the timing after refitting,
or if a new distributor has been fitted, the
timing should be set by a Ford dealer using a
STAR (Self Test Automatic Readout) tester.
17Disconnect the battery negative lead.
18Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs noting the correct fitted locations.
19Release the distributor cap and place it to
one side, complete with the HT leads.
20Turn the engine by means of the vibration
damper centre bolt until No 1 piston is at its
firing point (12°BTDC) (see illustration).
21If there is no mark visible, mark the rim of
the distributor body to indicate the point of
alignment of the contact end of the rotor.
22Mark the position of the distributor
mounting plate in relation to the cylinder
block.
23Disconnect the distributor wiring
connector.
24Scrape the sealant from around the
distributor clamp bolt then unscrew the bolt
and withdraw the distributor.
25Prior to refitting the distributor check that
the crankshaft is still set in the 12°BTDC
position for the No 1 piston.
26Hold the distributor over the hole so that
the mounting plinth and cylinder head marks
are aligned then align the rotor arm contact
end with the mark on the distributor rim (see
illustration).
27As the distributor is inserted, the rotor will
turn due to the meshing of the drive gears.
When the distributor is fully inserted, rotate the
distributor body until the rotor arm aligns with
mark C on the distributor rim.
28Once the rotor arm, cylinder head and
distributor alignment marks are all correctly
aligned, fit the clamp bolt and tighten it
securely.
29Refit the distributor cap then connect the
HT leads, reconnect the vacuum pipe and
wiring plug.
30Run the engine to normal operating
temperature and check the ignition timing,
bearing in mind the note made at the start of
this sub-Section.
All engines except DOHC
1Ignition timing is set very accurately in
production. It does not need to be checked or
adjusted on a routine basis. Adjustment will
only be necessary if the distributor, or an
associated component such as the timing belt,
has been disturbed.
2Before checking the timing, the following
conditions must be met:
a)The engine must be warmed up
b)On carburettor models, the vacuum pipe
must be disconnected from the manifold
and the manifold hole be plugged
c)Idle speed must be below 900 rpm
d)Any earthed “octane adjustment” wires
must be temporarily isolated
3Locate the timing marks. On SOHC engines
the timing scale is on the crankshaft pulley,
and a pointer on the timing cover must be
aligned with the appropriate mark on the
pulley (see illustration). Note that two
alternative types of pulley may be fitted (see
illustration).On V6 engines there is a single
notch on the pulley and the timing scale is on
the timing cover (see illustration).The desiredvalues are given in the Specifications.
Highlight the appropriate marks with white
paint.
4Connect a timing light (strobe) to No 1 HT
lead, following the maker’s instructions. Some
lights require additional power connections to
be made, either to the mains or to the battery.
5Run the engine at idle and shine the timing
light onto the marks. Take care not to get the
timing light leads, clothing etc tangled in the
fan blades or other moving parts. The timing
marks will appear stationary and (if the timing
is correct) in alignment.
14Ignition timing - checking
Engine electrical systems 5•7
5
13.12 Vane leading edge and sensor rib
(arrowed) are aligned at firing point13.20 Crankshaft pulley notch set to the 12°
BTDC position
14.3a Timing marks and pointer
Cast pulley shown
13.26 Rotor arm position before (1) and after (2) refitting the distributor
X = XC Notch
procarmanuals.com

into position or the wiring pins will be
damaged.
25Refit the module retaining bolts and
tighten them securely.
26Rotate the distributor until the marks made
on removal are aligned then securely tighten
the clamp bolt.
27Reconnect the distributor wiring
connector and the battery negative terminal.
28Run the engine to normal operating
temperature and check the ignition timing.
All engines except DOHC fuel-
injection
1The ignition coil is mounted on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment (see
illustration). If it fails, there will be no spark
and the engine will stop.
2To test the coil an ohmmeter will be
required. Disconnect the LT and HT leads from
the coil and measure the resistance between
the two LT terminals (primary resistance), then
between the HT terminal and either LT
terminal (secondary resistance). Desired
values are given in the Specifications. In fact
most test gear will not be able to distinguish
between a normal primary resistance (which is
very low) and a short-circuit.
3In the absence of an ohmmeter, test the coil
by substitution of a known good unit.4To remove the coil, disconnect the LT and
HT leads, then remove the two screws which
secure the coil clamp. Lift out the coil.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injection
engines
6Refer to the above paragraphs but note that
on some models the coil heat shield must be
removed for access to the coil securing bolts.
The heat shield is secured by two screws. An
earthing lead and/or a suppressor may also be
secured by one of the coil retaining screws
(see illustration).
1On carburettor models, a fuel trap is fitted in
the vacuum pipe between the inlet manifold
and the ESC II module.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the trap
and remove it. Dispose of it carefully, it may
contain fuel.
4When refitting, note that the end of the trap
marked CARB goes towards the manifold, and
the end marked DIST towards the module.
5Reconnect the battery.
ESC II module (carburettor
models)
SOHC engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
module (see illustration).
3Release the locking catch and disconnect
the multi-plug from the module (see
illustration).
4Remove the three securing screws and
detach the module and bracket from the left-
hand inner wing.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the multi-plug is securely fitted
and the locking catch engaged.Note: From January 1987, a new type of
module was fitted to the 1.8 litre engine. The
new module is smaller than the old unit and is
in the engine compartment mounted onto the
left-hand wing valance. The new module is
known as the ESC Hybrid Module.(see
illustration)
DOHC engine
6Removal and refitting is as above.
7The module is located on the left-hand side
of the engine compartment and is secured by
two screws.
EEC IV module (fuel-injection
models)
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Remove the under-dash trim on the
passenger side.
10Unclip the module and lower it onto the
vehicle floor.
11Remove the control bolt from the multi-
plug and disconnect the plug from the module.
12Refit by reversing the removal operations.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
13The module is situated behind the
passenger side of the facia and is accessible
from underneath the glovebox.
14To remove the module first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
15Reach up behind the glovebox and unclip
the module from the mounting bracket (see
illustration).
18Engine management control
module - removal and refitting
17Fuel trap (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
16Ignition coil - testing, removal
and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•9
5
16.1 Ignition coil location16.6 Suppresser secured by one of the coil
retaining screws
18.2 Disconnecting the ESC II module
vacuum pipe18.5 Engine management module - 1.8 litre
engine from January 198718.3 ESC II module multi-plug
procarmanuals.com

2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3). Save
the coolant if it is fit for re-use.
4Disconnect the multi-plug from the sensor.
Pull on the plug, not on the wiring (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the sensor and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Refill the cooling system.
Note: The manifold heater must not be
removed while it is hot.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2Remove the air cleaner to improve access.
3Remove the three bolts which secure the
heater to the underside of the manifold.
4Disconnect the electrical feed from the heater.
5Remove the heater. Recover the gasket and
O-ring (see illustration).
6Use a new gasket and O-ring when refitting.
Offer the heater to the manifold, insert the
three bolts and tighten them evenly, making
sure that the heater does not tip or jam.
7Reconnect the electrical feed.
8Refit the air cleaner and reconnect the
battery.
All relays are located behind the facia panel.
Access is gained by removing the facia top
(see illustration).
Testing of a suspect relay is by substitution
of a known good unit.
1All models have a facility for retarding the
ignition timing by up to six degrees without
physically disturbing the distributor. The
adjustment is intended for use when the
correct grade of fuel is not available.
2Adjustment is made by earthing one or two
leads (sometimes called “octane adjustment”
leads) which terminate in a multi-plug next to
the ignition coil (see illustrations). Ideally a
service adjustment lead, available from a Ford
dealer, should be used. Cut and insulate the
wires in the adjustment lead which are not to
be earthed.
3The amount of ignition retardation is as
follows:
Wire(s) Degrees retard
earthed Carb. injection V6
Blue 2 4 6
Red 4 2 3
Blue and red 6 6 Forbidden
4Performance and efficiency will suffer as a
result of this adjustment. Normal timing should
be restored (by isolating the adjustment leads)
when the correct grade of fuel is available.
5If the yellow adjustment lead is earthed, thiswill raise the idle speed by 75 rpm (OHC) or 50
rpm (V6). It may be found that the yellow lead
has already been earthed in production, in
which case disconnecting it will lower the idle
speed by the same amount. This adjustment
does not apply to 1.8 litre carburettor models.
1.8 models from January 1987
6The effect of the “octane adjustment” leads
on these models fitted with the ESC Hybrid
Module is as follows.
Red lead earthed2°retarded
Blue lead earthed4°retarded
Red and blue leads earthed6°retarded
1Fitted to DOHC engines,the sensor is
located at the right-hand rear of the cylinder
block, behind the oil filter (see illustration).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Access is most easily obtained from
underneath the vehicle. To improve access,
apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
5Remove the securing screw and withdraw the
sensor from the location in the cylinder block.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, using a
new sensor O-ring and tightening the retaining
screw to the specified torque setting.
24Crankshaft speed/position
sensor - removal and refitting
23Ignition timing and idle speed
adjustments
22Engine management system
relays - testing
21Manifold heater (carburettor
models) - removal and refitting
Engine electrical systems 5•11
5
20.4 Coolant temperature sensor multi-plug21.5 Removing the manifold heater22.1 Engine management system relays
A Power holdB Manifold heater
23.2a Octane adjustment lead multi-plug
23.2b Service adjustment lead for timing
and idle adjustment
A Earthing point (coil
screw)
B Multi-plugC Cut wires not to be
earthed
24.1 Crankshaft speed/position sensor
(viewed from underneath)
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1The sensor is located in the upper section of
the inlet manifold (DOHC fuel-injection
engines) or the side of the plenum chamber
(V6 engines).
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring (see illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold
and remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, applying a
smear of sealant to the threads of the sensor
and tightening it to the specified torque.
1Fitted to 2.0 litre DOHC fuel-injected
engines,this sensor is located in the top of the
fuel rail.
2To remove the sensor, first disconnect the
battery negative lead, and to improve access,
disconnect the wiring plug from the air charge
temperature sensor (in the inlet manifold).
Disconnect the sensor wiring plug by pulling
on the plug, not the wiring.
3Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor
wiring plug, again pulling on the plug (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the sensor from the fuel rail and
remove it.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening
the sensor to the specified torque.1Fitted to DOHC fuel-injected engines and to
V6 engines with catalytic converters, this
sensor is located in the left-hand side of the
gearbox/transmission.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking”).
4Detach the sensor wiring connector from
the bracket, and separate the two halves of
the connector (see illustration).
5Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the wiring connector bracket, noting the
orientation.
6Withdraw the sensor from the
gearbox/transmission casing.
7Before refitting the sensor, examine the O-
ring, and renew if damaged or worn.
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the wiring connector bracket is correctly
located.
1On DOHC fuel-injected engines, this sensor
is located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment where it is mounted either on
the suspension turret or on the bulkhead (see
illustration). V6 engines have the sensormounted on the centre of the engine
compartment bulkhead.
2To remove the sensor first disconnect the
battery negative terminal.
3Remove the two sensor retaining screws
and carefully withdraw the sensor, taking care
not to strain the wiring.
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor,
pulling on the plug not the wiring, then
disconnect the vacuum hose and remove the
sensor.
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
28Manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) sensor - removal and
refitting
27Vehicle speed sensor -
removal and refitting
26Fuel temperature sensor -
removal and refitting
25Air charge temperature
sensor - removal and refitting
5•12Engine electrical systems
25.3 Disconnecting the air charge
temperature sensor wiring plug
28.1 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor location - models equipped with a
catalytic converter
26.3 Disconnecting the fuel temperature
sensor wiring plug27.4 Vehicle speed sensor wiring plug
(arrowed)
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