2005 MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER Steering wheel

NOTE: In order to remove tension from the strut,
Raise the lower control arm approximately 10 mm
with a jack.
(2) Install the lower ball joint into the steering
knuckle. Tighten to 280 N´m (206 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the strut bolts to the steering knuckle
(Fig. 8). Tighten to 185 N´m (136 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the stop plate (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/SPRING STOP PLATES - INSTALLA-
TION).
(5) Lower the lower control arm.
(6) Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle (Fig.
8). Tighten the nut to 130 N´m (96 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION)
(Fig. 8).
(8) Install the front tire & wheel assembly (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove the spring blocks between the spring
and the spring clamp plates, While the vehicles
wheels are on the ground.
(11) Roll the vehicle approximately 1 mm forwards
and the backwards, and rock firmly.(12) Tighten the lower control arm nuts and bolts
to the frame to 150 N´m (110 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
(13) Apply brake to actuate brake pressure.
SPRING
REMOVAL
(1)To do this next step the vehicle must be
on the ground.Remove the front and rear bolts on
the left and right spring clamp plates (Fig. 9).
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheels.
(4) Remove the brake caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).Do not
allow the caliper to hang by the hose, support
the caliper accordingly.
(5) Remove the ABS sensor from the mounting
bore in the steering knuckle (Fig. 9).
(6) Remove the outer tie rod retaining nut and
separate the tie rod from the knuckle (Fig. 9) using
special tool C-3894±A.
NOTE: In order to remove tension from the strut,
Raise the lower control arm approximately 10 mm
with a jack.
(7) Remove the strut bolts from the steering
knuckle.
(8) Remove both stop plate bolts and rotate the
plates upwards with the stabilizer link attached.
(9) Lower the lower control arm.
(10) Remove the lower ball joint nut from the
steering knuckle.
(11) Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
using special tool 9282.
(12) Remove the lower control arm nuts and bolts
from the frame.
(13) Remove the lower control arm from the frame
(Fig. 9).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the transverse leaf
spring, cushion the pad on the jack accordingly.
(14) Support the transverse leaf spring in the cen-
ter with a jack.
(15) Remove the left and right spring clamp plates
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/SPRING CLAMP
PLATES - REMOVAL) (Fig. 9).
NOTE: The upper spring blocks between the engine
cradle and the spring are color coded, Make sure
not to mix the blocks per sides. The blocks are dif-
ferent in sizes to accommodate the weight of the
vehicle and driver in order for the vehicle to sit
level.
Fig. 8 LOWER CONTROL ARM
1 - STRUT
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT
3 - STOP PLATE BOLT
4 - STOP PLATE
5 - CALIPER ADPTER BOLT
6 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
7 - LOCKING BOLT
8 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
9 - OUTER TIE ROD END RETAINING NUT
10 - OUTER TIE ROD END
11 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
12 - LOWER BALL JOINT
13 - LOWER CONTROL ARM NUTS
14 - STRUT BOLT
VAFRONT 2 - 7
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(16) Lower the jack and remove the transverse leaf
spring towards the side.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: To avoid damaging the transverse leaf
spring, cushion the pad on the jack accordingly.
NOTE: Hand tighten all bolts until vehicle is on the
ground, unless the bushings may become distorted.
NOTE: The height blocks between the engine cradle
and the spring are color coded, Make sure not to
mix the blocks per sides. The blocks are different in
sizes to accommodate the weight of the vehicle and
driver in order for the vehicle to sit level.
(1) Install the transverse leaf spring in the center
with a jack with all the rubber mounts attached.
(2) Install the lower control arm to the frame (Fig.
9).
(3) Install the knuckle on the lower ball joint.(4) Raise the lower control arm approximately 10
mm with a jack.
(5) Install both stop plate bolts to the lower control
arm
(6) Install the strut bolts to the steering knuckle.
(7) Reinstall the tie rod to the steering knuckle
(Fig. 9). Tighten to 150 N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the ABS sensor all the way into the
steering knuckle, the sensor will adjust automatically
when the vehicle is moved (Fig. 9).
(9) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Fig. 9).
Tighten to 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install the front wheels.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
(12) Install the spring clamp plates (Fig. 9).
Tighten (M-10 bolts) to 65 N´m (48 ft. lbs.) (M-12
bolts) to 130 N´m (96 ft. lbs.).
(13) Roll the vehicle approximately 1 mm forwards
and the backwards, and rock firmly.
(14) Tighten the nuts on the lower control arm to
the frame to 150 N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(15) Apply brake to actuate brake pressure.
SPRING CLAMP PLATES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Install a jack under the lower ball joint and
lower the weight of the vehicle enough to allow a
wrench between the lower control arm and the
bracket tighten the nut.
(3) Remove the front and rear bolts to the spring
clamp plates.
(4) Remove the four inner retaining bolts and
nuts.
(5) Remove the spring clamp plate and rubber
block.
(6) Remove the shear bushings from the front and
rear bolts.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install a jack under the lower ball joint and
lower the weight of the vehicle enough to allow a
wrench between the lower control arm and the
bracket tighten the nut.
(2) Fit one spring clamp plate together with the
lower spring rubber block.
(3) Install the bolt with the shear bushing on the
rear mounting,Do not tighten yet.
(4) Install the four retaining bolts for the spring
clamp plate. Tighten to 65 N´m (48 ft.lbs.).
(5) Align the holes for the front clamp plate joint
using a suitable drift (shear bushing not installed).
(6) Remove the alignment drift.
Fig. 9 FRONT SPRING
1 - NUT
2 - STRUT
3 - STOP PLATE
4 - STOP PLATE BOLT
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER BOLT
6 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
7 - OUTER TIE ROD END NUT
8 - ABS SENSOR
9 - SPEED SENSOR
10 - LOWER CONTROL ARM RETAINING NUTS
11 - OUTER TIE ROD END
12 - RUBBER SPRING MOUNT
13 - SHEAR BUSHING
14 - SPRING CLAMP PLATE BOLT
15 - SPRING CLAMP PLATE
16 - LOWER RUBBER SPRING MOUNT
17 - SPRING
18 - STRUT BOLTS
19 - LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS
2 - 8 FRONTVA
SPRING (Continued)

STRUT
REMOVAL
(1) On the drivers side remove the floor covering
off to the side.
(2) On the passengers side take off the cover for
the tools.
(3) Remove the cover for the upper strut mounting
(Fig. 12).
(4) Remove the nut on the upper strut mounting
(Fig. 12).
(5) Raise and support the vehicle.
(6) Remove the front wheels.
(7) Raise the lower control arm approximately 10
mm with a jack to remove the tension from the strut.
(8) Remove the strut from the steering knuckle
(Fig. 12).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Hand tighten the strut upper mounting nut
until the vehicle is on the ground, otherwise the
bushings may become distorted.
(1) Install strut to the steering knuckle (Fig. 12).
Tighten to 185 N´m (136 ft. lbs.).
(2) Raise the lower control to install the upper
part of the strut into the footwell. Tighten to 100
N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/
WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Install the nut covers (Fig. 12).
(6) Refit the floor covering and the tool cover.
Fig. 12 STRUT
1 - COVER
2 - NUT
3 - RUBBER MOUNT
4 - STRUT
5 - STRUT BOLT
6 - LOCKING BOLT
2 - 10 FRONTVA

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION.........................17
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION.........................17STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE
ADJUSTMENT........................19
SPECIFICATIONS.......................19
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Camber and Caster are not adjustable on
this vehicle. (TOE ONLY).
NOTE: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings should be tightened with the vehi-
cle at normal ride height. It is important to have the
springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when
the fasteners are torqued. If springs are not at their
normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be
affected and premature bushing wear may occur.
Wheel alignment involves the correct positioning of
the wheels in relation to the vehicle. The positioning
is accomplished through suspension and steering
linkage adjustments. An alignment is considered
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity and to minimize tire wear. The most important
measurements of an alignment are caster, camber
and toe (Fig. 1).
CAUTION: Never attempt to modify suspension or
steering components by heating or bending.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart below for additional information.(1) Inspect tires for size, air pressure and tread
wear.
(2) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(3) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(4) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(5) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(6) Road test the vehicle.
Fig. 1 Wheel Alignment Measurements
1 - FRONT OF VEHICLE
2 - STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - TOE-IN
VAWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 17

SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.3. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Replace steering gear.
2. Column coupler binding. 2. Replace coupler.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Tire. 2. Criss-Cross Front Tires.
3. Alignment. 3. Align vehicle to specifications.
4. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.4. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
5. Radial tire lead. 5. Rotate or replace tire as necessary.
6. Brake pull. 6. Repair brake as necessary.
7. Weak or broken spring. 7. Replace spring.
2 - 18 WHEEL ALIGNMENTVA
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE ADJUSTMENT
CAMBER AND CASTER ARE NOT ADJUSTABLE
(TOE ONLY)..
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the
inner tie rod as necessary.
(4) Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 50 N´m (37 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Verify the specifications
(6) Turn off engine.
SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION FRONT SPECIFICATION
Toe-In  .16É
DESCRIPTION FRONT SPECIFICATION
Camber  .75É
Camber
Left to Right Difference
Max1.33É
Caster  .5É
Steering Knuckle
Inclination .5É
Steering Knuckle
Inclination
Left to Right Difference
Max1É
REAR SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION REAR SPECIFICATION
Toe-In
Max0É ( .25É)
Camber
Max0É (-.66É/+.33É)
Inclination of Rear
Wheels (Individual Wheel
Toe)= Maximum
Inclination of Rear Axle
Max0É ( .25É)
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Outer Tie Rod End Jam
Nut50 37 Ð
VAWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 19
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................17
REMOVAL.............................17
INSTALLATION.........................18
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................19
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............19
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............20
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........21
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........21
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........21
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........21
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................22
INSTALLATION - REAR...................22
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................22SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................23
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................23
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................24
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................24
INSTALLATION - REAR.................25
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 25
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................26
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................26
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....27
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................27
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................27
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................27
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE and DOT 4 standards only. Use
fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)