(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing and attach dial indicator to
the pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the dial indica-
tor.
(3) Spread the housing enough to install the case
in the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.
(5) Install differential into the housing. Tap the
differential case with a rawhide/rubber hammer to
ensure the bearings are seated in housing (Fig. 43).
(6) Remove the spreader.
(7) Install bearing caps in their original locations
(Fig. 44) and tighten bearing cap bolts to 109 N´m
(80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install axle shafts.
(9) Install the hub bearings.
(10) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Seal-
ant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 45).
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes
after applying the sealant.(11) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
correct quantity and type.
(13) Install the fill hole plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.).
(14) Remove support and lower vehicle.
Fig. 42 Pinion Mate Shaft Roll-Pin
1 - PUNCH
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - MATE SHAFT LOCKPIN
Fig. 43 Differential Case
1 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 44 Bearing Cap Reference
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
3 - 38 FRONT AXLE - 216FBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing and attach dial indicator to
the pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the dial indica-
tor.
(3) Spread the housing enough to install the case
in the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.
(5) Install differential into the housing. Tap the
differential case with a rawhide/rubber hammer to
ensure the bearings are seated in housing (Fig. 43).
(6) Remove the spreader.
(7) Install bearing caps in their original locations
(Fig. 44) and tighten bearing cap bolts to 109 N´m
(80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install axle shafts.
(9) Install the hub bearings.
(10) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Seal-
ant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 45).
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes
after applying the sealant.(11) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
correct quantity and type.
(13) Install the fill hole plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.).
(14) Remove support and lower vehicle.
Fig. 42 Pinion Mate Shaft Roll-Pin
1 - PUNCH
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - MATE SHAFT LOCKPIN
Fig. 43 Differential Case
1 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 44 Bearing Cap Reference
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
3 - 70 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(10) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Seal-
ant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 34).
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes
after applying the sealant.
(11) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
correct quantity and type.
(13) Install the fill hole plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.).
(14) Remove support and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRAC-LOKY
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing a Trac-lokyunit
for repair, drain, flush and refill the axle with the
specified lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loky
Lubricant (friction modifier) should be added after
repair service or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. Thiswill correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 35).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 22 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 36).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced. The Trac-lokydifferential can be serviced
with the ring gear installed.
(3) Remove pinion shaft roll pin.
(4) Remove pinion shaft with a drift and hammer
(Fig. 37).
(5) Install and lubricate Step Plate C-6960-3 (Fig.
38).
Fig. 34 Differential Cover
1 - SEALANT SURFACE
2 - SEALANT
3 - SEALANT THICKNESS
Fig. 35 Trac-lokYTest -Typical
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6790 WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 130 REAR AXLE - 248RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(3) Spread the housing enough to install the case
in the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.
(5) Install differential into the housing. Tap the
differential case with a rawhide/rubber hammer to
ensure the bearings are seated in housing (Fig. 32).
(6) Remove the spreader.
(7) Install bearing caps in their original locations
(Fig. 33) and tighten bearing cap bolts to 109 N´m
(80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install axle shafts.
(9) Install the hub bearings.
(10) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Seal-
ant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 34).
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes
after applying the sealant.
(11) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).(12) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
correct quantity and type.
(13) Install the fill hole plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.).
(14) Remove support and lower vehicle.
Fig. 31 Pinion Mate Shaft Roll-Pin
1 - PUNCH
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - MATE SHAFT LOCKPIN
Fig. 32 Differential Case
1 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 33 Bearing Cap Reference
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
3 - 160 REAR AXLE - 267RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(1) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes. Install the hold
down clamps and tighten the tool turnbuckle finger-
tight.
(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing and attach dial indicator to
the pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the dial indica-
tor.
(3) Spread the housing enough to install the case
in the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator.
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(4) Remove the dial indicator.
(5) Install differential into the housing. Tap the
differential case with a rawhide/rubber hammer to
ensure the bearings are seated in housing (Fig. 32).
(6) Remove the spreader.
(7) Install bearing caps in their original locations
(Fig. 33) and tighten bearing cap bolts to 109 N´m
(80 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install axle shafts.
(9) Install the hub bearings.
(10) Apply a bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Seal-
ant or equivalent to the housing cover (Fig. 34).Install the housing cover within 5 minutes
after applying the sealant.
(11) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(12) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
correct quantity and type.
(13) Install the fill hole plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 31 Pinion Mate Shaft Roll-Pin
1 - PUNCH
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - MATE SHAFT LOCKPIN
Fig. 32 Differential Case
1 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 33 Bearing Cap Reference
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 189
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)
(CTM) from the CTM connector receptacle. Reconnect
the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch
to the On position. With the washer button
depressed, check for battery voltage at the washer
switch sense circuit cavity of the instrument panel
wire harness connector (Connector C1) for the CTM.
If OK, proceed to the diagnosis for the wiper relay.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If
not OK, repair the open washer switch sense circuit
between the CTM and the multi-function switch as
required.
CLEANING - WIPER & WASHER SYSTEM
WIPER SYSTEM
The squeegees of wiper blades exposed to the ele-
ments for a long time tend to lose their wiping effec-
tiveness. Periodic cleaning of the squeegees is
suggested to remove any deposits of salt or road film.
The wiper blades, arms, and windshield glass should
only be cleaned using a sponge or soft cloth and
windshield washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-
abrasive cleaner. If the wiper blades continue to
leave streaks, smears, hazing, or beading on the
glass after thorough cleaning of the squeegees and
the glass, the entire wiper blade assembly must be
replaced.
CAUTION: Protect the rubber squeegees of the
wiper blades from any petroleum-based cleaners,
solvents, or contaminants. These products can rap-
idly deteriorate the rubber squeegees.
WASHER SYSTEM
If the washer system is contaminated with foreign
material, drain the washer reservoir by removing the
front washer pump/motor from the reservoir. Clean
foreign material from the inside of the washer reser-
voir using clean washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a
non-abrasive cleaner. Flush foreign material from the
washer system plumbing by first disconnecting the
washer hoses from the washer nozzles, then running
the washer pump/motor to run clean washer fluid or
water through the system. Plugged or restricted
washer nozzles should be carefully back-flushed
using compressed air. If the washer nozzle obstruc-
tion cannot be cleared, replace the washer nozzle.
CAUTION: Never introduce petroleum-based clean-
ers, solvents, or contaminants into the washer sys-
tem. These products can rapidly deteriorate the
rubber seals and hoses of the washer system, as
well as the rubber squeegees of the wiper blades.CAUTION: Never use compressed air to flush the
washer system plumbing. Compressed air pres-
sures are too great for the washer system plumbing
components and will result in further system dam-
age. Never use sharp instruments to clear a
plugged washer nozzle or damage to the nozzle ori-
fice and improper nozzle spray patterns will result.
INSPECTION - WIPER & WASHER SYSTEM
WIPER SYSTEM
The wiper blades and wiper arms should be
inspected periodically, not just when wiper perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Inspect the wiper arms for any indications of
damage, or contamination. If the wiper arms are con-
taminated with any foreign material, clean them as
required. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/
WASHERS - CLEANING). If a wiper arm is damaged
or corrosion is evident, replace the wiper arm with a
new unit. Do not attempt to repair a wiper arm that
is damaged or corroded.
(2) Carefully lift the wiper blade off of the glass.
Note the action of the wiper arm hinge. The wiper
arm should pivot freely at the hinge, but with no
side-to-side looseness evident. If there is any binding
evident in the wiper arm hinge, or there is evident
side-to-side play in the wiper arm hinge, replace the
wiper arm.
CAUTION: Do not allow the wiper arm to spring
back against the glass without the wiper blade in
place or the glass may be damaged.
(3) Once proper hinge action of the wiper arm is
confirmed, check the hinge for proper spring tension.
Remove the wiper blade from the wiper arm. Either
place a small postal scale between the blade end of
the wiper arm and the glass, or carefully lift the
blade end of the arm away from the glass using a
small fish scale. Compare the scale readings between
the right and left wiper arms. Replace a wiper arm if
it has comparatively lower spring tension, as evi-
denced by a lower scale reading.
(4) Inspect the wiper blades and squeegees for any
indications of damage, contamination, or rubber dete-
rioration (Fig. 1). If the wiper blades or squeegees
are contaminated with any foreign material, clean
them and the glass as required. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING). After
cleaning the wiper blade and the glass, if the wiper
blade still fails to clear the glass without smearing,
streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the
wiper blade. Also, if a wiper blade is damaged or the
squeegee rubber is damaged or deteriorated, replace
8R - 6 WIPERS/WASHERSBR/BE
WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 10 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Recover refrigerant from a/c system, if
equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Remove the a/c condenser, if equipped (Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
BR/BEENGINE 5.2L 9 - 69
ENGINE 5.2L (Continued)