2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER maintenance

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING (FRONT)
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is
usually not noticeable at speeds above 48 km/h (30
mph).
REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING
NOTE: Replacement of the Unit III front hub/bearing
assembly can be normally done without having to
remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. In the
event that the hub/bearing is frozen in the steering
knuckle and cannot be removed by hand, it will
have to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. The
steering knuckle will require removal from the vehi-
cle to allow the hub/bearing assembly to be
pressed out of the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove wheel lug nuts, and front tire and
wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(4) With aid of a helper applying the brakes to
keep the front hub from turning, remove the hub nut
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 5). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.
Do not allow caliper hang by brake hose.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub and bearing (Fig.
5).
(7) Push in on end of driveshaft stub shaft, push-
ing its splines out of the hub splines.(8) Remove the four hub and bearing mounting
bolts from the rear of steering knuckle (Fig. 6).Use
care not to come in contact with and damage
the ABS tone wheel on the driveshaft stub shaft
upon bolt removal.
(9) Remove the hub and bearing assembly from
the steering knuckle.
Fig. 4 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 5 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
RSFRONT2-5
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in Lubri-
cation And Maintenance.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the end of the stub axle and hub nut
(Fig. 8).
(4) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning,loosen and removethe hub
nut (Fig. 8).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 9). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire
(Fig. 10).Do not allow caliper to hang by brake
hose.
(6) Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to
steering knuckle by holding the tie rod end stud
while loosening and removing nut with a wrench
(Fig. 11).
(7) Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
using Remover, Special Tool C-3894±A (Fig. 12).
(8) If equipped with antilock brakes, remove the
front wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle
(Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the two steering knuckle-to-strut clevis
bracket attaching bolts.
(10) Tip the knuckle outward and remove the
driveshaft stub axle from the hub and bearing. Sus-
pend driveshaft straight outward using a bungee
cord or wire (Fig. 10).Do not allow driveshaft to
hang by inner joint.
Fig. 8 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 9 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
Fig. 10 CALIPER AND DRIVESHAFT SUSPENDED
1 - HANGER SUSPENDING CALIPER
2 - HANGER SUSPENDING DRIVESHAFT
3 - DRIVESHAFT
4 - BRAKE CALIPER
RSFRONT2-7
KNUCKLE (Continued)

(5) Install steering knuckle in clevis bracket of
strut damper assembly. Install the strut clevis-to-
steering knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten both bolts
to a torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional
1/4 (90É) turn.
(6) Install tie rod end into knuckle steering arm.
Start nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud
of tie rod end stationary using a socket (Fig. 11),
tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut.
Then using a crowfoot on a torque wrench (Fig. 17),
tighten the tie rod end nut to a torque of 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.).
(7) If equipped with antilock brakes, install wheel
speed sensor and mounting bolt on steering knuckle
(Fig. 13). Tighten the speed sensor bolt to a torque of
7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(8) Install brake rotor on hub and bearing (Fig. 9).
(9) Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly
on steering knuckle. Install adapter amounting bolts
and tighten to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(10) Clean any debris from the threads of the
outer C/V joint stub axle.
(11) Install the washer and hub nut on stub axle.
(12) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning, then tighten hub nut to a
torque of 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the stub axle.
(14) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 8). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock.(15) Install wheel and tire assembly. Install and
tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half the required speci-
fication. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the
full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Set front wheel alignment camber and toe as
necessary. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
LOWER BALL JOINT
DESCRIPTION
The ball joint is an integral part of the lower con-
trol arm (Fig. 1). The ball joint has a tapered stud
that is pressed into the aluminum knuckle. The ball
joint stud is threaded on the end for a retainer nut.
The ball joint has a non-vented seal boot. The seal
boot has an integrated heat shield (Fig. 18).
The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this
vehicle is a sealed-for-life ball joint and requires no
maintenance lubrication. The ball joint has been
lubricated-for-life during the manufacturing process.
A special fitting cap is installed on the fill port. This
cap must not be removed and replaced with a com-
mon zirc fitting. The special cap is there to eliminate
the possibility of lubrication latter during the ball
joints life, thus damaging the non-vented seal boot.
NOTE: The ball joint does not require any type of
additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication
to the lower ball joint.
Fig. 17 Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
(Typical)
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - TIE ROD END
3 - CROWFOOT
4 - SOCKET
5 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 18 Ball Joint Seal Boot (Typical)
1 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
2 - BALL JOINT STUD
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - SHIELD
2 - 10 FRONTRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)

The lower control arm is an iron casting with two
rubber bushings and a ball joint. The lower control
arm front bushing is the spool type and is pressed
into the lower control arm. The standard lower con-
trol arm rear bushing is a push-on bushing that is
pushed over a stem on the rear of the lower control
arm. The optional lower control arm rear bushing is
a hydro-bushing that is pressed on. It has liquid
filled voids that provide more effective dampening
than the standard bushing. Vehicles with rear hydro-
bushings utilize a different lower control arm than
vehicles with standard bushings. They have a
straight slightly tapered round stem where the
hydro-bushing is mounted whereas the standard arm
has a straight stem with a squared knob on the end
to retain the bushing.
The lower control arm ball joint is pressed into the
outer end of the arm. The ball joint has a tapered
stud and retainer nut for fastening it to the steering
knuckle.
OPERATION
The lower control arm supports the lower end of
the steering knuckle and allows for the up and down
movement of the suspension during the jounce and
rebound travel. The lower control arm ball joint con-
nects the arm to the steering knuckle.
REMOVAL - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Remove the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the bolts fastening the power steering
cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember
reinforcement (Fig. 22).
(5) Remove the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer bolts located on each side of each lower con-
trol arm rear bushing.
NOTE: The bolts fastening the cradle crossmember
reinforcement are of two different thread sizes. Note
the location of the various sizes.
(6) Remove the bolts attaching the cradle cross-
member reinforcement to the front suspension cradle
crossmember (Fig. 23). Remove the 2 bolts fastening
the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to
the body of the vehicle. Remove the reinforcement.
(7) Remove the pivot bolt attaching the front bush-
ing of the lower control arm to the front suspension
cradle crossmember.
(8) Remove the lower control arm.
DISASSEMBLY - LOWER CONTROL ARM
(REAR BUSHING - STANDARD)
(1) Remove the lower control arm from the front
suspension cradle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM - REMOVAL)
(2) Mount the lower control arm in a visewithout
using excessive clamping force.
Fig. 21 Installing Ball Joint Seal Boot
1 - SHIELD
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6758
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
Fig. 22 POWER STEERING COOLER
1 - CRADLE CROSSMEMBER REINFORCEMENT
2 - POWER STEERING COOLER
2 - 12 FRONTRS
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

(10) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install
and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specifica-
tion. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full
specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(11) Raise vehicle, remove jack stands and lower
vehicle to the ground.
(12) Perform front wheel alignment as necessary.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
The stabilizer bar interconnects both front struts of
the vehicle and is attached to the front crossmember
(Fig. 1) .
Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front cross-
member is through 2 rubber-isolator cushion bush-
ings and retainers. A double ball jointed stabilizer
bar link is used to attach each end of the stabilizer
bar to the front strut assemblies. All parts of the sta-
bilizer bar are replaceable as individual components.
The stabilizer bar to front crossmember cushion
bushings are split for easy removal and installation.
The split in the bushings should be positioned toward
the rear of the vehicle, with the square corner facing
down, when the stabilizer bar is installed.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
of the vehicle through the stabilizer bar. This helpsto minimize the body roll of the vehicle during sus-
pension movement.
Connecting the stabilizer bar links to the strut
assemblies helps reduce the fore-and-aft rate of the
stabilizer bar from the rest of the front suspension.
REMOVAL - STABILIZER BAR
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts fastening the power steering
cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember
reinforcement (Fig. 32).
(3) Remove the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer bolts located on each side of each lower con-
trol arm rear bushing.
NOTE: The bolts fastening the cradle crossmember
reinforcement are of two different thread sizes. Note
the location of the various sizes.
(4) Remove the bolts attaching the cradle cross-
member reinforcement to the front suspension cradle
crossmember (Fig. 33). Remove the 2 bolts fastening
the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to
the body of the vehicle. Remove the reinforcement.
CAUTION: When removing the nut from the stud of
the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud to
rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the stud (Fig. 34).
Fig. 31 Jack Stands Supporting Vehicle Weight
1 - LOWER CONTROL ARMS
2 - BALL JOINT
3 - JACK STANDS
4 - BALL JOINT
Fig. 32 POWER STEERING COOLER
1 - CRADLE CROSSMEMBER REINFORCEMENT
2 - POWER STEERING COOLER
2 - 16 FRONTRS
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

arately for each corner or side of the vehicle depend-
ing on optional equipment and type of vehicle
service. If the coil springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs are replaced with springs meet-
ing the correct load rating and spring rate for the
vehicle and its specific options.
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, along with jounce and rebound
of the suspension.
The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.
The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(FRONT)
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 39).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly
dust boots (Fig. 39).
(3) Inspect the coil spring isolator on the lower
spring seat for any signs of damage or deterioration.
(4) Lift dust boot (Fig. 40) and inspect strut
assembly for evidence of fluid running from the
upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut rod and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly (Fig. 40). Also inspect jounce bumpers for
signs of damage or deterioration.
REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE
STRUT ROD WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS
INSTALLED IN VEHICLE, OR BEFORE STRUT
ASSEMBLY SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
(1) Raise the vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 41).
Fig. 40 Strut Assembly Leakage Inspection (Typical)
1 - DUST BOOT
2 - STRUT SHAFT
3 - STRUT FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - INSPECT THIS AREA FOR EVIDENCE OF EXCESSIVE FLUID
LEAKAGE
Fig. 41 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
2 - 20 FRONTRS
STRUT (Continued)

DESCRIPTION N´mFt.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bushing Retainer
Bolts61 45 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 61 45 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Link Frame
Bracket Mounting Bolts61 45 Ð
Track Bar Bracket-To-Body
Mount Bolts61 45 Ð
Track Bar Pivot Bolts 95 70 Ð
Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nut 135 100 Ð
SPECIAL TOOLS
REAR SUSPENSION
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL - LEAF SPRING FRONT BUSHING
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 3).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
bushing replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
REMOVER, HUB/BEARING 8458
REMOVER/INSTALLER, BUSHING 8459
REMOVER/INSTALLER, BUSHING 8526
Press, Ball Joint C-4212F
Fig. 3 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
2 - 28 REARRS
REAR (Continued)

unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually
not noticeable at speeds above 48 km/h (30 mph).
REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove wheel and tire.
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. Refer to Brakes.
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.(6) If hub and bearing cannot be removed from the
axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458 (Fig. 9)
and following procedure to press the hub and bearing
out of the axle.
(a) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(b) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9).
(d) Place Push Plate, Special Tool 8458±1, on
ends of Threaded Guide Pins
(e) Place a dab of grease in dimple of Push
Plate.
(f) Tighten the Forcing Screw, Special Tool
8458±3, up against dimple in Push Plate and press
hub and bearing out of axle by continuing to
tighten screw.
(g) Remove the tool.
(h) Reinstall the two outboard spring plate bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the hub/bearing from the rear axle and
brake support plate.
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Set the parking brake.The parking brake is
set to keep the hub and bearing, and axle shaft
from rotating when loosening the hub nut.
Fig. 8 SENSOR CONNECTOR AT HUB AND
BEARING
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
Fig. 9 REMOVAL USING SPECIAL TOOL 8458
1 - THREADED GUIDE PINS 8458-4
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - LEAF SPRING PLATE
4 - FORCING SCREW 8458-3
5 - SCREW MOUNT 8458-2
6 - PUSH PLATE 8458-1
RSREAR2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)