2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER air filter

160 000 km (100 000 miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Flush and replace engine coolant. (3)
180 000 km (110 000 miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element. Replace as necessary.
IMPORTANT: Inspection and service should also
be performed any time a malfunction is observed or
suspected. Retain all receipts.
²Change oil every 12 months regardless of mile-
age.
²The fuel filter/water separator element should
be replaced once a year if the vehicle is driven less
than 40 000 km annually or if power loss from fuel
starvation is detected.
²
Flush and replace engine coolant every 60 months
even if the vehicle is driven less than 160 000 km.
SCHEDULE ªBº
Follow this schedule if the vehicle is operated
under one or more of the following conditions.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C
(32É F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16.2 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of driving is at sustained high
speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
10 000 km (6 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
20 000 km (12 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
30 000 km (18 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
40 000 km (24 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
50 000 km (31 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
60 000 km (37 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
70 000 km (43 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
80 000 km (49 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
90 000 km (55 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
100 000 km (62 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
110 000 km (68 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
120 000 km (74 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
130 000 km (80 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
0a - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE - RG - 2.5 L TURBO DIESELRG
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

²Inspect air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
140 000 km (86 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
150 000 km (93 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Inspect air filter element.
²Replace fuel filter/water separator element. (2)
²Check alignment.
160 000 km (100 000 Miles)
²Change engine oil. (1)
²Replace engine oil filter.
²Replace air filter element.
²Flush and replace engine coolant. (3)
²Change oil every 12 months regardless of mile-
age.
²The fuel filter/water separator element should
be replaced once a year if the vehicle is driven less
than 20 000 km annually or if power loss from fuel
starvation is detected.
²
Flush and replace engine coolant every 60 months
even if the vehicle is driven less than 160 000 km.
²Change manual transaxle fluid.
HOISTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING
Refer to Owner's Manual provided with vehicle for
proper emergency jacking procedures.
WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI-
CLE. WHEN THE ENGINE OR REAR SUSPENSION
IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE CENTER OF
GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME HOISTING
CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY SUPPORT OR
SECURE VEHICLE TO HOISTING DEVICE WHEN
THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.
CAUTION: Do not position hoisting device on any
suspension component, including the front suspen-
sion crossmember, the rear leaf springs, and the
rear axle. Do not hoist on the front and rear
bumpers, the lower liftgate crossmember, the lower
radiator crossmember, the down standing flanges
on the sill or the front engine mount.
FOR PROPER HOIST PLACEMENT REFER
TO (Fig. 7).The hoisting points are identified by S.A.E.
inverted triangle hoisting symbols (Fig. 7). The front
hoisting points are at the bottom of the font rail
below the hoisting symbol approximately 250mm
behind the front suspension crossmember. When
using outboard lift hoists, verify that the hoist lift
pads have been properly adjusted to eliminate con-
tact between the hoist arm and the down standing
flange on the sill. The rear hoisting points are the
leaf spring front mounting brackets. The hoist pad
must be positioned to pick up the flanges on the
bracket, not the leaf spring.
When servicing the leaf springs or the leaf spring
mounting brackets, special provisions are required to
support the rear of the vehicle. Position the rear
hoist pads under the horizontal surface on the bot-
tom of the sill, inboard adjacent to the flange and
centered fore/aft between the jacking indicator tabs
on the lower flange.DO NOT HOIST ON THE
FLANGE.Place a soft pad between the hoist and the
painted surface on the sill to avoid scratching the fin-
ish.
Fig. 7 HOISTING AND JACKING POINTS
1 - Drive On Lift
2 - Frame Contact Lift (Single Post)
Chassis Lift (Non-Axle Dual Post)
Outboard Lift (Dual Post)
Floor Jack
3 - S.A.E. Hoisting Symbols
RGLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE - RG - 2.5 L TURBO DIESEL0a-7
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLANT LEVEL
CHECK
NOTE: Do not remove pressure/vent cap for routine
coolant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without
removing the pressure/vent cap.With the engine
cold and not running,simply observe the level of
the coolant in the coolant recovery pressure container
(Fig. 2). The coolant level should be between the MIN
and MAX marks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM
Remove pressure/vent cap (Fig. 1) and fill system,
using a 50/50 mix of MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula and distilled water.
Continue filling system until full.Be careful not
to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
Fill coolant recovery pressure container (Fig. 1) to
at least the MAX mark with 50/50 solution. It may
be necessary to add coolant to the coolant recovery
pressure container after three or four warm up/cool
down cycles to maintain coolant level between the
MAX and MIN mark. This will allow trapped air to
be removed from the system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
COOLANT PRESSURE/VENT CAP, CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS, OR THE DRAINCOCK WHEN
THE SYSTEM IS HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(1)Without removing pressure/vent cap and
with system not under pressure, open the drain-
cock. The draincock is located on the lower right side
of radiator (Fig. 3).
(2) After the coolant recovery pressure container is
empty, then remove coolant pressure/vent cap.
Fig. 1 UNDERHOOD FLUID FILL LOCATIONS
1 - COOLANT PRESSURE/VENT CAP
2 - BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
3 - INTELLIGENT POWER MODULE
4 - BATTERY
5 - COOLANT RECOVERY PRESSURE CONTAINER6 - OIL DIPSTICK
7 - WINDSHIELD SOLVENT RESEVOIR
8 - AIR FILTER HOUSING
9 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
7a - 16 ENGINERG
COOLANT (Continued)

REMOVAL - WATER PUMP HOUSING
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove both outer and inner timing belt covers
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect water pump housing to thermostat
housing bypass hose (Fig. 16).
(5) Remove the water pump housing retaining
nuts (Fig. 17).
(6) Remove water pump housing from engine block
(Fig. 17).
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSTALLATION - WATER PUMP
(1) Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
(2) Place water pump and gasket in place. Install
water pump retaining bolts (Fig. 15). Torque bolts to
24.4N´m.
(3) Install both inner and outer timing belt covers
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(4) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(5) Connect negative battery cable.
INSTALLATION - WATER PUMP HOUSING
(1) Clean mating serfaces of water pump housing
and engine block as necessary.
(2) Place new o-ring in groove in water pump
housing (Fig. 18).
(3) Be sure lower radiator hose tube o-ring is in
place.
(4) Install water pump housing on lower radiator
hose tube and push on mounting studs (Fig. 17).
Torque retaining nuts to 24.4N´m.
(5) Connect water pump housing to thermostat
housing bypass hose (Fig. 16).
(6) Install both inner and outer timing belt covers
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Connect negative battery cable.
Fig. 15 WATER PUMP LOCATION
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - ENGINE BLOCK
3 - OIL COOLER
4 - OIL FILTER HOUSING
5 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 16 THERMOSTAT HOUSING LOCATION
1 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
3 - AIR BLEED
4 - WATER PUMP
5 - WATER PUMP HOUSING TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING
BYPASS HOSE
6 - E G R VA LV E
RGENGINE7a-23
WATER PUMP (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES
ROUGH1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold
gasket, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs. 1. Clean plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
4. Incorrect valve timing. 4. Correct valve timing.
5. Leaking cylinder head gasket. 5. Replace cylinder head gasket.
6. Low compression. 6. Test compression of each
cylinder.
7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. 7. Replace valves.
8. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.8. Perform exhaust restriction test.
(Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) Install
new parts, as necessary.
9. Faulty ignition coil(s). 9. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in Fuel System. 2. Clean fuel system and replace
fuel filter.
3. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. 3. Replace valves.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED 1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug gap. 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Faulty ignition coil(s). 2. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Dirty fuel injector(s). Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
4. Contamination in fuel system. 4. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
9 - 6 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. Check and correct engine oil
level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil
level.
5. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters. 5. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic
lash adjuster assembly.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms.
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters. 7. Install new rocker arm/hydraulic
lash adjuster assembly.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head assembly.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.9. Grind valve seats and valves.
10. Missing adjuster pivot. 10. Replace rocker arm/hydraulic
lash adjuster assembly.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.6. Replace crankshaft or grind
surface.
7. Misaligned connecting rods. 7. Replace bent connecting rods.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-7
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Install new sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check sending unit and main
bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
9 - 8 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9 - 10 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)