2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER lug pattern

TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY
4NOTE: Prior to performing this test, be sure to check the Glow Plug Relay
operation. Refer to CHECKING GLOW PLUG OPERATION for the related
symptom(s).
Refer to the Service Information and check the Glow Plugs for proper operation.
Are the Glow Plugs operating properly?All
Ye s®Go To 5
No®Repair as necessary.
Perform NO START VERIFICATION - VER-1.
5 Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the ECM harness connectors.
Disconnect all 4 Fuel Injector harness connectors.
Measure the resistance between Ground and each Fuel Injector Driver circuit at it's
respective Fuel Injector harness connector.
Is the resistance below 1000 ohms for any of the measurements?All
Ye s®Repair the Fuel Injector Driver circuit(s) for a short to ground.
Perform NO START VERIFICATION - VER-1.
No®Go To 6
6 Inspect and fuel system lines for restrictions, leaks or other problems.
Is there any evidence of problems?All
Ye s®Repair as necessary.
Perform NO START VERIFICATION - VER-1.
No®Go To 7
7 Turn the ignition off.
Using the DRB lab scope, backprobe the CMP Sensor Signal circuit at the CMP
Sensor harness connector.
Start the engine, if the engine will not start, crank the engine for several seconds
while monitoring the DRB.
NOTE: Refer to Charts and Graphs to view a correct CMP Sensor signal.
Does the DRB display a steady clean CMP Signal pattern?All
Ye s®Go To 8
No®Perform Test for DTC P0340-Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
Static Plausibility.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
8 Turn the ignition off.
Using the DRB lab scope, backprobe both of the CKP Sensor Signal circuits at the
CKP Sensor harness connetor.
NOTE: Refer to Charts and Graphs to view a correct CKP Sensor signal.
Start the engine, if the engine will not start, crank the engine for several seconds
while monitoring the DRB.
Does the DRB display a steady clean CKP Signal pattern for each circuit?All
Ye s®Go To 9
No®Perform Test for DTC P0340-Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
Dynamic Plausibility.
Perform ROAD TEST VERIFICATION - VER-2.
208
DRIVEABILITY - DIESEL
*ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START ÐContinued

(3) Remove overrunning clutch housing drain plug
and drain fluid (Fig. 43).
(4) Install the drain plug and torque to 30 N´m (22
ft. lbs.).
(5) Re-position the drain pan under the overrun-
ning clutch housing fill plug.
(6) Remove fill plug (Fig. 44).
(7) Using a suction gun (Fig. 45), add 0.58 L (1.22
pts.) of MopartATF+4 (Automatic Transmission Flu-
idÐType 9602).
(8)
Install fill plug and torque to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
VISCOUS COUPLER
DESCRIPTION
The heart of the all-wheel drive system is the inter-
axle viscous coupling and bi-directional overrunning
clutch. Under normal driving the vehicle retains pre-
dominantly front wheel drive characteristics. The all-
wheel drive takes effect when the front wheels start to
slip. Under normal level road, straight line driving,
100% of the torque is allocated to the front wheels.
The viscous coupler allows more torque to the rear
wheels in accordance with the amount of slippage at
the front wheels. The variable torque distribution is
automatic with no driver inputs required.
OPERATION
The viscous coupler (Fig. 46) is a housing nearly
filled with a high viscosity silicone liquid and thin
metal plates alternately splined to an inner and
outer drum. The viscous coupler provides torque in
the following modes:
²Shear mode (normal operation)
²Hump mode (locked mode)
The inner plates are slotted around the radius and
the outer plates have holes in them. In the shear
mode (normal operation), the plates are evenly
spaced and the torque is created by the shearing of
the plates through the fluid and 90-100% of the
torque is applied to the rear axle. During the shear
mode, a fluid flow pattern is created from this design
(holes and slots). This fluid flow causes high pressure
on each side of each pair of plates and low pressure
between each pair of plates.
Fig. 43 Overrunning Clutch Case Drain Plug
1 - OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HOUSING DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 44 Overrunning Clutch Housing Fill Plug
1 - OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HOUSING FILL PLUG
2 - FUEL TANK
Fig. 45 Filling Overrunning Clutch Case
1 - OVERRUNNING CLUTCH HOUSING FILL HOLE
2 - SUCTION GUN
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-45
FLUID (Continued)

DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the drive belt shield (Fig. 7).
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW DRIVE BELT TEN-
SIONER TO SNAP BACK, AS DAMAGE TO TEN-
SIONER AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY COULD
RESULT.
(3) Position a wrench on the belt tensioner lug
(Fig. 8).
(4) Release belt tension by rotating the tensioner
counterclockwise (Fig. 8).(5) Remove the drive belt (Fig. 10).
(6) Carefully return tensioner to its relaxed posi-
tion.CLEANING
Clean all foreign debris from belt pulley grooves.
The belt pulleys must be free of oil, grease, and cool-
ants before installing the drive belt.
INSPECTION
Belt replacement under any or all of the following
conditions is required:
²Excessive wear
²Frayed cords
²Severe glazing
Poly-V Belt system may develop minor cracks
across the ribbed side (due to reverse bending). These
minor cracks are considered normal and acceptable.
Parallel cracks are not (Fig. 9).
NOTE: Do not use any type of belt dressing or
restorer on Poly-V Belts.
Fig. 7 Accessory Drive Belt Shield
1 - ATTACHING SCREW
2 - ATTACHING SCREWS
3 - SPLASH SHIELD
Fig. 8 DRIVE BELT TENSION RELEASE
1 - BLET TENSIONER LUG
2 - WRENCH
Fig. 9 Drive Belt Wear Pattern
1 - NORMAL CRACKS - BELT OK
2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS - REPLACE BELT
RSACCESSORY DRIVE7-11

HEADLAMP UNIT
ADJUSTMENT
HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT PREPARATION
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Verify that the headlamp leveling switch is in
the ª0º position.
(3) Inspect and correct damaged or defective com-
ponents that could interfere with proper headlamp
alignment.
(4) Verify proper tire inflation.
(5) Clean headlamp lenses.
(6) Verify that luggage area is loaded as the vehi-
cle is routinely used.
(7) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 10 meters (32.8 ft.) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 8).
(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 10 meters
(32.8 ft.) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times and allow
suspension to stabilize.
(4) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(5) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to the
alignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT
The low beam headlamp will project on the screen
upper edge of the beam (cut-off) at the horizontal
lamp centerline   20 mm (0.75 in.). The high beam
pattern should be correct when the low beams are
aligned properly (Fig. 9). To adjust headlamp align-
ment, rotate adjustment screws to achieve the speci-
fied low beam cut-off location.
Fig. 8 HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE
2 - CENTER OF HEADLAMPS
3 - 15É CUT-OFF LINE
4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP5 - 10 METERS (32.8 FT.)
6 - HORIZONTAL CUT-OFF LINE
7 - 110 mm (4.3 in.)
8La - 6 LAMPSRG

the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
9 - 4 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)

²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible thecrankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gage adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer with cable adaptors to the DRBIIIt.
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
9 - 78 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, refer to
Engine Core Plugs for procedures (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Tool C119 or equivalent (Fig.
44). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 44). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.Refer to Engine Specifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS).
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The nodular iron camshaft is mounted in the
engine block and supported with four steel backed
aluminum bearings (Fig. 45). A thrust plate, located
in front of the first bearing, is bolted to the block and
controls the camshaft end play (Fig. 45). To distin-
guish camshafts between the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
a cast-in ring is located between the rear bearing
journal and rear lobe (Fig. 46). The 3.3L engine
application is as-cast only. The 3.8L engine applica-
tion the cast ring is machined off.
OPERATION
The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft through
a timing chain and sprockets. The camshaft has pre-
cisely machined (egg-shaped) lobes to provide accu-
rate valve timing and duration.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine assembly from vehicle.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL)
Remove the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the timing chain and camshaft
sprocket. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
Fig. 43 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
Fig. 44 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 107
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID DRAIN AND
FILL
NOTE: For proper fluid change intervals, (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION)
The fluid required in this transaxle is Mopart
ATF+4 (Automatic Transmission FluidÐType 9602).
Use of substitute fluids may result in improper
transaxle operation and/or failure.
FLUID DRAIN
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove transaxle drain plug (Fig. 135) and
drain fluid into suitable container.
(3) Install drain plug and torque to 14 N´m (120
in. lbs.).
FLUID FILL
(1) Remove transaxle fill plug (Fig. 136).
(2) Add 2.4-2.7L (2.5-2.9 qts.) of MopartATF+4
(Automatic Transmission FluidÐType 9602) until
fluid is within 1/8º below fill hole.
(3) Install fill plug, ensuring it is properly seated.
(4) Lower vehicle.
GEARSHIFT BOOT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove gearshift knob by pushing down and
rotating ò-turn clockwise (Fig. 137).(2) Remove gearshift boot from center console by
disengaging three (3) retaining clips (Fig. 138).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install gearshift boot to console and secure
with three (3) retaining clips (Fig. 138).
(2) Install gearshift knob (Fig. 137). Orient shift
pattern ò-turn clockwise, press down, and rotate
ò-turn counter-clockwise.
(3) Secure gearshift boot to base of knob.
Fig. 135 Transaxle Drain Plug
1 - TRANSAXLE DRAIN PLUG
2 - DIFFERENTIAL COVER
Fig. 136 Transaxle Fill Plug
1 - TRANSAXLE FILL PLUG
2 - END COVER
Fig. 137 Gearshift Knob Removal/Installation
1 - GEARSHIFT KNOB
2 - GEARSHIFT LEVER
RGT850 MANUAL TRANSAXLE21a-53
FLUID (Continued)