1999 DODGE NEON warning

SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake mani-
folds DOHC, and water pumps requires special corro-
sion protection. MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent
is recommended for best engine cooling without cor-
rosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh
properly mixed solution.
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases built up pressure, maintaining a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than
atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the
coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radia-
tor cooling capacity.
There is a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow from the coolant reserve
system (CRS) tank. This valve is spring loaded in the
closed position. However it must be free to open dur-
ing system cool-down.If the valve is stuck shut,
the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to ensure proper
sealing function.
There is a gasket in the cap that seals to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum is maintained to draw
coolant back into the system from the coolant reserve
system (CRS) tank.
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE WORKING
ON VEHICLE. RELIEVE PRESSURE BY PLACING A
SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITHOUT
PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO ESCAPE
THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND WHEN THE
SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING OUT COOLANT AND
STEAM AND THE PRESSURE DROPS CONTINUE
SERVICE.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAM. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.The hose clamps are removed by using Special Tool
6094 or equivalent constant tension clamp pliers
(Fig. 8) to compress hose clamp.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose
should be replaced. Do not damage radiator inlet and
outlet when loosening hoses.
Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks
and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is
recommended.
Spring type hose clamps are used in all applica-
tions. If replacement is necessary replace with the
original Mopartequipment spring type clamp.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a
core hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating
element immersed in coolant.The power cord
must be secured in its retainer clips, and not
positioned so it could contact linkages or
exhaust manifolds and become damaged.
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
Fig. 7 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open engine thermostat?1. Refer to On Board Diagnostic in
Group 25. Replace thermostat if
necessary. If a (DTC) has not been
set, the problem may be with the
temperature gauge.
2. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) connected to the
temperature gauge coolant sensor
on the engine?2. Check the connector at the
engine coolant sensor. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) operating OK?3. Check Gauge operation. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Coolant level low during cold
ambient temperature, accompanied
by poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
overflow/reserve tank and the
radiator. Inspect the system for
leaks. Repair as necessary. Refer to
WARNINGS outlined in this section
before removing pressure cap.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.1. Trailer being towed, a steep hill
being climbed, vehicle being
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine idling during high ambient
(outside) temperatures with air
conditioning on. High altitudes
Could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and drive the vehicle
without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge the gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause of the
overheating and repair. Refer to
POSSIBLE CAUSES in this section.
2. Is temperature gauge (if
equipped) reading correctly?2. Check gauge. Refer to Group 8E.
Repair as necessary.
3. Is temperature warning lamp (if
equipped) illuminating
unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation.
Refer to Group 8E. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant low in overflow/reserve
tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. Refer to
checking cooling system for leaks in
this group.
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following step 6.5. Tighten cap.
6. Poor seals at radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator cap
Inspection. Replace cap if
necessary.
6. (b) Check condition of filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
neck.
PLCOOLING 7 - 7

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.7. Coolant level low in radiator but
not in coolant overflow/reserve
tank. This means the radiator is not
drawing coolant from the coolant
overflow/reserve tank as the engine
cools.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is
formed inside the cooling system. If
the radiator cap seals are defective,
or the cooling system has a leak, a
vacuum can not be formed.7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Replace cap if
necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck. If
neck is damaged, replace filler
neck.
(c) Check condition of hoses from
filler neck to coolant tank. It should
be tight at both ends without any
kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check coolant overflow/reserve
tank and tank hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture may be to rich.8. Check coolant. Refer to coolant
section in this group. Adjust glycol
to water ratio as required.
9. Coolant not flowing through
system.9. Check for coolant flow at filler
neck with some coolant removed,
engine warm and thermostat open.
Coolant should be observed flowing
through filler neck. If flow is not
observed determine reason for lack
of flow and repair as necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Clean insects or debris.
11. Radiator core is plugged or
corroded.11. Replace or re-core radiator.
12. Fuel or ignition system
problems.12. Refer to Fuel and Ignition
System group for diagnosis. Also
refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnosis Procedures manual for
operation of the DRB scan tool.
13. Dragging brakes. 13. Inspect brake system and repair
as necessary. Refer to Group 5,
Brakes for diagnosis.
14. Bug screen is being used
causing reduced air flow.14. Remove bug screen.
15. Thermostat partially or
completely shut. This is more
prevalent on high mileage vehicles.15. Check thermostat operation and
replace as necessary. Refer to
thermostats in this group.
16. Electric cooling fan not
operating properly.16. Check electric fan operation and
repair as necessary.
17. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 17. Check cylinder head gasket for
leaks. Refer to testing cooling
system for leaks. For repairs, refer
to group 9, Engines.
18. Heater core leaking. 18. Check heater core for leaks.
Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air
Conditioning. Repair as necessary.
7 - 8 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is
working is to see if the heater warms properly. A
defective pump will not be able to circulate heated
coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump opera-
tion.
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cool-
ing system is hot or under pressure.
(1) Remove radiator cap.
(2) Remove a small amount of coolant from the
system, start the engine and warm up until thermo-
stat opens. With the thermostat open and coolant
level low you will see if the water pump is pumping
coolant through the system.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper
radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold,
remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until
thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
Fan control is accomplished two ways. The fan
always runs when the air conditioning compressor
clutch is engaged. In addition to this control, the fan
is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which
is sensed by the coolant temperature sensor which
sends the message to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The (PCM) turns on the fan through the
Solid State Fan Relay. The Solid State Fan Relay is
located on the left front inner frame just behind the
radiator. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity
and diagnostics provided.
Switching through the (PCM) provides fan control
for the following conditions.
²The fan will not run during cranking until the
engine starts no matter what the coolant tempera-
ture is.
²Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is
engaged and low pressure cutout switch is closed.
²Fan will run at vehicle speeds above about 40
mph only if coolant temperature reaches 110ÉC(230ÉF). It will turn off when the temperature drops
to 104ÉC (220ÉF). At speeds below 40 mph the fan
switches on at 102ÉC (215ÉF) and off at 93ÉC (200ÉF).
Refer to Radiator Fan Control Module Group 14,
Fuel Injection for more information.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for procedure.
TESTING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
The system should be full. With the engine not
running, wipe the filler neck sealing seat clean.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the filler neck,
as shown in (Fig. 9) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi) pres-
sure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 min-
utes, inspect the system for external leaks.
Move all hoses at the radiator and heater while
system is pressurize at 15 psi, since some leaks occur
due to engine rock while driving.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start the
engine, and run the engine to normal operating tem-
perature in order to open the thermostat and allow
the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester. If the nee-
dle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion
leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH THE PRESSURE TESTER IN
PLACE PRESSURE BUILDS UP QUICKLY. ANY
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILD-UP DUE TO CON-
TINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE
RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block,
or cracked cylinder head.
Fig. 9 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
7 - 14 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

There may be internal leaks, which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil, it indicates an inter-
nal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak,
the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 10). Attach the
radiator pressure tester to thefiller neck nipple,
and pump air into the system. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) min-
imum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
²Check and adjust coolant freeze point²Refill system with new coolant
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any depos-
its on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to
end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 11). Working the
plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sen-
sitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling
system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool
upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to con-
firm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while posi-
tioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not
hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the
filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gas-
ket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from
sealing properly.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
²Will cause corrosion in the system.
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow
through the heater.
²Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS
tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It thenFig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

RADIATOR
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Cooling System
Draining in this section.
(3) Remove engine air inlet duct.
(4) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.
(5) Disconnect and cap automatic transmission
hoses, if equipped.
(6) Remove radiator to battery strut (Fig. 20) and
ground strap.
(7) For vehicles equipped with dual fans: Remove
the battery and battery tray.(8) Remove fan module assembly by disconnecting
fan motor electrical connector.
(9) Remove fan shroud retaining screws, located on
the top of the shroud (Fig. 21). Lift shroud up and
out of bottom shroud attachment clips separating
shroud from radiator. For dual fan applications the
left fan module may be removed first, then the right
side module last. Fan damage should always be
avoided.
(10) Remove the lower radiator hose.
(11) Remove upper radiator isolator bracket
mounting screws (Fig. 20). Disconnect the engine
block heater wire if equipped.
(12) Remove the air conditioning condenser attach-
ing screws located at the front of the radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 22), then lean condenser forward.
NOTE: It is not necessary to discharge the air con-
ditioning system to remove the radiator.
(13) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine
compartment.Care should be taken not to dam-
age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during
removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radia-
tor support (yoke).
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if
equipped (Fig. 22), with four mounting screws and
tighten to 5.4 N´m (50 in. lbs.). Then seat the assem-
bly lower rubber isolators into the mounting holes
provided in the lower crossmember.
(3) Tighten radiator isolator mounting bracket
screws to 10 N´m (90 in. lbs.). The radiator should
have clearance to move up approximately 5 to 8 mm
(0.25 in.) after assembled.
(4) Install lower radiator hose. Align the hose and
position the clamp so it will not interfere with engine
components.
Fig. 18 Thermostat/Engine Outlet ConnectorÐSOHC
Fig. 19 Thermostat/Engine Outlet ConnectorÐDOHC
Fig. 20 Radiator Mounting
PLCOOLING 7 - 19
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

must be replaced withonlythe recommended part
for adequate strength, performance and safety.
(1) To remove fan from motor shaft, bench support
the motor and motor shaft, while removing the fan
retaining clip, so that the shaft and motor will not be
damaged by excessive force.Surface burr removal
may be required to remove fan from motor
shaft (Fig. 25).Do not permit the fan blades to
touch the bench.
(2) To install fan on motor shaft, slide the fan over
shaft. Support motor and shaft as above while
installing fan retaining clip.
INSTALLATION FAN MODULE
(1) Install module to radiator. Torque shroud to
radiator fasteners to 7.5 N´m (65 in. lbs.).
(2) Connect fan motor lead.For wiring diagrams
of fan motor systems Refer to 8W Wiring Dia-
grams.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTORÐSERVICE
WARNING: Do not disassemble the fan motor from
the support bracket.
Electric fan motor is serviced as an assembly with
the fan module.
FAN SHROUD
Some fan shrouds are equipped with flapped doors
to prevent the shroud from restricting air flow at
high speeds.
All vehicles have fan shrouds to improve fan air
flow efficiency.
The shroud supports the electric fan motor and
fan. For removal and installation procedures, refer to
radiator removal in this Section.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and
Refill of this section for procedure.
(2) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly with element loop posi-
tionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper
level, vent air, and inspect for leaks. Pressurize sys-
tem with Radiator Pressure Tool before looking for
leaks.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND
POWER STEERING PUMP
(1) Loosen the power steering pump locking bolts
A and B and pivot bolt C (Fig. 26) to remove and
install belt and/or adjust belt tension.
(2) Using a 1/2º breaker bar, adjust belt tension by
applying torque to the square D hole on the power
steering pivot bracket. Adjust tension to specification
given in Belt Tension Chart.
(3) Tighten in order, first tighten locking bolt A to
27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) then, bolt B to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
Then pivot bolt C to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
GENERATOR BELT
(1) Loosen pivot bolt E then locking nut F and
adjusting bolt G (Fig. 27) to remove and install belt
and/or adjust belt tension.
(2) Tighten adjusting bolt G, adjust belt tension to
specification shown in Belt Tension Chart.
(3) Tighten pivot bolt E to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
Locking nut F to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
WATER PUMP
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
Fig. 25 Servicing Radiator Fan
PLCOOLING 7 - 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

BATTERY
CONTENTS
page page
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION......................... 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)........ 1
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED............... 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY BUILT-IN TEST INDICATOR........ 2
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)........ 3
BATTERY LOAD TEST..................... 5
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST..... 6
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR.......... 6
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BATTERY CHARGING..................... 6CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY............................. 7
VISUAL INSPECTION..................... 7
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
BATTERY TRAY.......................... 9
BATTERY............................... 8
FRESH AIR INLET TUBE REMOVAL.......... 9
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS............... 10
TORQUE.............................. 10
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
The battery stores, stabilizes, and delivers electri-
cal current to operate various electrical systems in
the vehicle. The determination of whether a battery
is good or bad is made by its ability to accept a
charge. It also must supply high-amperage current
for a long enough period to be able to start the vehi-
cle. The capability of the battery to store electrical
current comes from a chemical reaction. This reac-
tion takes place between the sulfuric acid solution
(electrolyte) and the lead +/- plates in each cell of the
battery. As the battery discharges, the plates react
with the acid from the electrolyte. When the charging
system charges the battery, the water is converted to
sulfuric acid in the battery. The concentration of acid
in the electrolyte is measured as specific gravity
using a hydrometer. The original equipment (OE)
battery is equipped with a hydrometer (test indica-
tor) built into the battery cover. The specific gravity
indicates the battery's state-of-charge. The OE bat-
tery is sealed and water cannot be added.
The battery is vented to release gases that are cre-
ated when the battery is being charged and dis-
charged. The battery top, posts, and terminals should
be cleaned when other under hood maintenance is
performed.
When the electrolyte level is below the top of the
plates, Yellow/Clear in the test Indicator, the battery
must be replaced. The battery must be completely
charged, and the battery top, posts, and cable clampsmust be cleaned before diagnostic procedures are per-
formed.DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
A completely normal vehicle will have a small
amount of current drain on the battery with the key
out of the ignition. It can range from 4 to 10 milli-
amperes after all the modules time out. If a vehicle
will not be operated for approximately a 20 days, the
IOD fuse should be disconnected to minimize the
vehicle electrical drain on the battery. The IOD fuse
is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
Refer to the PDC to locate the cover proper fuse.
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED 20 AMPS WHEN
CHARGING A COLD -1ÉC (30ÉF) BATTERY. PER-
SONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
The time required to charge a battery will vary
depending upon the following factors.
SIZE OF BATTERY
A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery
may require more recharging time than a completely
discharged small capacity battery. Refer to Battery
Charging Timetable for proper charging times.
PLBATTERY 8A - 1