Page 137 of 455

MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
3
REPAIR EXHAUST FRONT PIPE
Service repair no - 30.10.09
Remove
1.Disconnect battery.
2.Raise vehicle on ramp.
3.Remove 3 securing nuts at exhaust manifold
flange.
4.Remove through bolt securing front pipe
mounting bracket to chassis.
5.Remove bracket and rubber mounting from
exhaust pipe.
NOTE: A chassis undertray may be fitted
on some vehicle derivatives to conform to
legal requirements. When under chassis
remove and refit procedures are required, it may
be necessary to remove the undertray
See
CHASSIS AND BODY, Repair, Front undertray or
See CHASSIS AND BODY, Repair, Rear undertray
.
6.Remove flange nuts securing front pipe to
intermediate silencer assembly and separate
flanges.
7.Release front pipe at manifold and remove
gasket.
8.Move front pipe rearwards, lower front end and
at the same time twist toward propeller shaft.
Move pipe forward and withdraw from under
vehicle.
Refit
9.Manouvre front pipe into position and secure to
intermediate silencer flange. Do not fully tighten
fixings at this stage.
10.Fit new gasket and secure front pipe to exhaust
manifold. Tighten fixings to
50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).
11.Fit front pipe bracket and mounting rubber to
chassis.
12.Fully tighten front pipe to intermediate silencer
flange nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
13.Lower vehicle ramp and reconnect battery.
Page 138 of 455

30MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
4
REPAIR INTERMEDIATE PIPE - 90
Service repair no - 30.10.11
Remove
1.Raise vehicle on ramp.
2.Release intermediate pipe from front mounting
rubber, see J6243.
3.Remove 2 flange nuts securing intermediate
pipe to tail pipe.
4.Release intermediate pipe from rear mounting
rubber.
5.Remove 2 flange nuts securing intermediate
pipe to front pipe.
6.Release intermediate pipe from front and tail
pipe and remove.
Refit
7.Fit intermediate pipe to front and tail pipes.
8.Secure intermediate pipe to front and rear
mounting rubbers.
9.Secure intermediate pipe to front pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
10.Secure intermediate pipe to tail pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
11.Lower vehicle.INTERMEDIATE PIPE - 110/130
Service repair no - 30.10.11
Remove
1.Raise vehicle on ramp.
2.Release intermediate pipe from mounting
rubber, see J6244.
3.Remove 2 flange nuts securing intermediate
pipe to tail pipe.
4.Remove 2 flange nuts securing intermediate
pipe to front pipe.
5.Release intermediate pipe from front and tail
pipe and remove.
Refit
6.Fit intermediate pipe to front and tail pipes.
7.Secure intermediate pipe to mounting rubbers.
8.Secure intermediate pipe to front pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
9.Secure intermediate pipe to tail pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
10.Lower vehicle.
Page 139 of 455

MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
5
REPAIR TAILPIPE - 90
Service repair no - 30.10.22
Remove
1.Raise vehicle on ramp.
2.Remove 2 flange nuts securing tail pipe to
intermediate pipe, see J6243.
3.Release tail pipe from inboard mounting rubber.
4.Release tail pipe from outboard mounting rubber
and remove.
Refit
5.Fit tail pipe to intermediate pipe.
6.Secure tail pipe to mounting rubbers.
7.Secure tail pipe to intermediate pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
8.Lower vehicle.TAILPIPE - 110/130
Service repair no - 30.10.22
Remove
1.Raise vehicle on ramp.
2.Remove 2 flange nuts securing tail pipe to
intermediate pipe, see J6244.
3.Release tail pipe from front mounting rubber.
4.Release tail pipe from rear mounting rubber.
5.Release tail pipe from intermediate pipe and
feed over rear axle.
6.Remove tail pipe.
Refit
7.Feed tail pipe over rear axle and connect to
intermediate pipe.
8.Secure tail pipe to mounting rubbers.
9.Secure tail pipe to intermediate pipe. Tighten
nuts to
30 Nm (22 lbf/ft).
10.Lower vehicle.
Page 140 of 455
CLUTCH
1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION DESCRIPTION
The clutch unit comprises a single dry plate friction
disc and diaphragm spring clutch unit, secured to the
engine flywheel.OPERATION
The unit is operated hydraulically by the clutch master
cylinder (12) and a slave cylinder (13) attached to the
transmission bell housing.
Clutch components
1.Crankshaft and flywheel
2.Friction plate
3.Clutch cover
4.Diaphragm spring
5.Pressure plate
6.Fulcrum posts (9) for diaphragm spring
7.Bearing rings (2) for diaphragm spring
8.Retraction links and bolts (3) for pressure plate
9.Release bearing10.Release lever
11.Release lever pivot post
12.Master cylinder
13.Slave cylinder
14.Master cylinder pedal pushrod
15.Primary shaft and taper bearing (in gearbox)
16.Gearbox front cover
17.Primary shaft flywheel bush
18.Pedal pivot and return spring
Page 141 of 455
33CLUTCH
2
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
When the clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid
transmits the movement via the slave cylinder, release
lever (10), bearing (9), to the inner fingers of the
diaphragm spring (4).
The diaphragm spring (4) pivots on the bearing rings
(7) and fulcrum posts (6) causing the pressure plate
(5) to release the clamping force on the friction plate
and linings (2).As the the clamping force is removed from the friction
plate (2), the plate slides on the splines of the primary
shaft (15) and takes up a neutral position between the
flywheel (1) and the pressure plate (5), thus
disconnecting the drive between the engine and the
gearbox.
Page 142 of 455

CLUTCH
1
FAULT DIAGNOSIS CLUTCH ASSEMBLY CONDITIONS
For the clutch to operate correctly it is important the
following conditions are satisfied:-
·The primary shaft (15) must be free in the
crankshaft spigot bush (17).
·The friction plate (2) must be able to slide easily on
the splines on the primary shaft (15), to a position
where it does not contact either the flywheel or the
pressure plate.
·The friction plate must not be distorted or the
linings contaminated with oil, which may cause it to
stick or continue to run in contact with the flywheel
or pressure plate.
A number of faults can develop in the operation of the
clutch for a variety of reasons and most faults are due
to normal wear at high mileage. Problems can also
occur if the unit has been renewed by an unskilled
operator.
Recognising and diagnosing a particular clutch fault is
therefore of paramount importance in ensuring that
the problem is rectified at the first attempt.
Problems which develop in the clutch are as follows:-
·Clutch spin/drag
·Clutch slip
·Clutch judder/fierceCLUTCH SPIN - DRAG
Symptoms
Clutch spin is that, with engine running and clutch
pedal depressed, the gears cannot be immediately
engaged without making a grinding noise. This
indicates the clutch is not making a clean break.
However, if the clutch pedal is held depressed for
several seconds the friction plate will eventually break
free from the engine and the gear will engage silently.
Clutch spin as it becomes more severe develops into
clutch drag, making the silent engagement of a gear
impossible, regardless of how long the pedal is held
depressed.
CLUTCH SLIP
Symptoms
Clutch slip is most evident climbing a hill or when the
vehicle is moving off from stationary with a heavy
load. As the clutch is released, slip occurs between
the engine and the transmission, allowing the engine
speed to increase without a corresponding increase in
vehicle speed.
Clutch slip can develop to the stage where no power
is transmitted through the clutch as the pedal is
released.
CLUTCH JUDDER - FIERCE
Symptoms
Clutch judder or fierce engagement, like slip, is most
likely to occur when the vehicle is moving off from
stationary. As the clutch pedal is released the vehicle
will move rapidly or in a series of jerks, which cannot
be controlled even by careful operation of the clutch
by the driver.
It should be noted that a vehicle may display all the
symptoms or any combination of the symptoms
described, depending on the driving conditions vehicle
load and operating temperatures.
Page 143 of 455

33CLUTCH
2
FAULT DIAGNOSIS FAULT/SYMPTOM CHART
Symptoms
Slip Spin/Drag Judder/Fierce Fault Item
* * * Worn or oil on clutch linings 2
* * * Mechanical damage45678
* * Distorted clutch plate 2
* Failed or air in hydraulic system 12 13
* * Primary shaft tight fit in crankshaft bush 15 17
* Clutch splines sticking 2 15
* Weak clutch plate springs or insecure/worn
engine/gearbox mountings6
* Insecure/worn propeller shafts
* Insecure/worn suspension components/rubber
bushes
The items refered to in this chart relate to the clutch components shown in J6270 and J6271.See Description
and operation, Description
CLUTCH NOISE - MECHANICAL FAULTS
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox input/primary shaft bearings
See MANUAL GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis,
R380 gearbox
.
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
changes tone or becomes worse when the clutch
is depressed.
Suspect worn release bearing.
Knocking/rattling from clutch or gearbox in
neutral, which is reduced or disappears when the
clutch is depressed.
Suspect worn/weak release lever retainer or
clutch unit.
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox fault
See MANUAL
GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis, R380 gearbox
.HYDRAULIC FAULTS
Unable to dis-engage clutch, little or no pedal
resistance.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check pipes and cylinders for leaks.
3.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect faulty master cylinder if no fluid leaks
present
See Repair, Master cylinder.
Spongy pedal operation
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect air in fluid
See Repair, Bleed
hydraulic system
.
Clutch is difficult to dis-engage and/or does not
immediately re-engage when pedal is released.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect pedal pivot, master cylinder or slave
cylinder seizure
See Repair, Master cylinder.
Page 144 of 455
CLUTCH
1
ADJUSTMENT CLUTCH PEDAL AND MASTER CYLINDER
SETTING
1.Remove 6 screws and detach pedal box top
cover and gasket.
2.Slacken both locknuts on master cylinder
push-rod.
3.Check distance from lower edge of clutch pedal
to floor. Correct measurement is 140 mm (5.50
in) without floor mat.
4.Adjust pedal stop as necessary to obtain correct
setting.
5.Adjust master cylinder push rod to obtain
approximately 1,5 mm (1/16 in) free play
between push-rod and master cylinder piston.
6.Tighten push-rod locknuts.7.Check operation of clutch pedal and ensure that
there is a minimum of 6 mm (0.25 in) of free play
before pressure is felt. If necessary, readust
master cylinder push-rod.
8.Fit pedal box gasket and top cover.