1994 JEEP CHEROKEE transmission

Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bushings or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted brake drum or shoes
²rear brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensator
port or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums arethe primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull. Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a par-
tial apply condition and pull if only one caliper is in-
volved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is mag-
nified. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be
at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING
THROUGH DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes lightly applied for a mile or
two. However, if the lining is both wet and dirty, dis-
assembly and cleaning will be necessary.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other liquid materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs
JBRAKES 5 - 9

assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear
²rear brakedrum wear
²brakedrums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify. If oversize drums are suspected, the
diameter of the braking surface will have to be
checked with an accurate drum gauge. Oversize
drums will cause low brake pedal and lack of park-
ing brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installa-
tion will result in unsatisfactory parking brake oper-
ation. Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause
drag, bind and pull along with poor parking brake
operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement
procedures are described in the Parking Brake sec-
tion.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). Over-
haul or replace cylinder.(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, power
booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install
known good check valve and repeat steps (2)
through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist
is not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
Fig. 1 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal (Typical)
Fig. 2 Hand Operated Vacuum Pump (Typical)
JBRAKES 5 - 11

PARKING BRAKE LEVER REMOVAL (XJ WITH FULL
CONSOLE)
(1) Release parking brakes, if necessary.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove adjusting nut from tensioner rod. Then
temporarily secure equalizer to nearby chassis com-
ponent with wire.
(4) Remove nuts attaching lever support plate to
underside of floorpan.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) On models with manual transmission, remove
shift knob, boot and bezel.
(7) On models with automatic transmission, re-
move shift handle cap and remove plunger, spring
and T-lock (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove shift handle and shift bezel (Fig. 7).
(9) Remove console cover screws (Fig. 8).(10) On models with power mirror switch, pry
switch out of console cover and disconnect switch
connector (Fig. 8).
(11) Remove console cover from base (Fig. 9).
(12) Remove console base.
(13) Disconnect brake warning light wire connec-
tor at lever.
(14) Remove lever and cable tensioner assembly
from floorpan.
(15) Move cover and boot aside for access to lever
arm (Fig. 3).
(16) Remove E-clip and pin that connect tensioner
to lever arm (Fig. 3).
Fig. 6 Hand Lever And Cable Tensioner Components (XJ)
Fig. 5 Tensioner Boot Seated In Cover
Fig. 7 Automatic Transmission Shift Handle
JPARKING BRAKES 5 - 59

PARKING BRAKE LEVER INSTALLATION (XJ WITH
FULL CONSOLE)
(1) Assemble lever and tensioner (Figs. 3 and 4).
Be sure E-clip is fully engaged in retaining pin (Fig.
3).
(2) Verify that tensioner boot is fully seated in
cover (Fig. 5).
(3) Position assembled lever and tensioner in floor-
pan.
(4) Connect brake warning light wires to switch on
lever.
(5) Install console base and cover.
(6) Connect power mirror switch wire to switch
and install switch in console cover.
(7) On automatic transmission models, install shift
bezel and shift handle.
(8) On manual transmission models, install boot,
bezel and shift knob.
(9) Raise vehicle.
(10) Insert tensioner rod in equalizer and install
adjusting nut on tensioner rod.
(11) Install nuts attaching lever support plate to
floorpan and lever.
(12) Adjust parking brakes. Refer to procedure in
this section.
PARKING BRAKE LEVER REMOVAL (XJ WITHOUT
CONSOLE)
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching lever support plate to
underside of floorpan.
(3) Remove adjusting nut from tensioner rod. Then
temporarily secure equalizer and cables to nearby
chassis component with wire.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Raise lever cover at rear and tilt it forward
(Fig. 10).
(6) Remove cover attaching screws. Or, if cover is
attached with rivets, drill out and remove cover.
(7) Disconnect brake warning light wire at lever.
(8) Remove lever and tensioner assembly from
floorpan.
(9) Move cover and boot aside for access to ten-
sioner retaining pin and clip.
(10) Remove pin and E-clip that secure tensioner
to lever arm and separate lever and tensioner.
PARKING BRAKE LEVER INSTALLATION (XJ
WITHOUT CONSOLE)
(1) Assemble lever and tensioner (Figs. 3 and 4).
(2) Verify that tensioner boot is properly seated in
cover (Fig. 5).
(3) Position lever on floorpan and insert lever
screws through floorpan. Be sure lever cover and seal
are in place between lever and floorpan.
(4) Connect brake warning light wires to switch on
lever.
Fig. 8 Console Cover Screws And Power Mirror
Switch Connector
Fig. 9 Console Cover And Base
5 - 60 PARKING BRAKESJ

(4) Remove retainer clip securing booster push rod
to pedal (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove nut securing pedal shaft in support
bracket.
(6) Slide pedal shaft outward for clearance and re-
move brake pedal.
(7) Remove pedal bushings if they are to be re-
placed.
BRAKE PEDAL INSTALLATION
(1) Install new bushings in pedal. Lubricate bush-
ings and pivot pin with Mopar multi mileage grease.
(2) Position pedal, sleeve and spacer(s) in bracket
and install pivot pin.
(3) Install new nut on pivot pin.Pivot pin nut is
specially formed and should not be reused. Be
sure to install new nut to secure pin.
(4) ) Tighten new pivot pin nut to 27 Nzm (20 ft.
lbs.) on models with manual transmission. Tighten
nut to 35 Nzm (26 ft. lbs.) on models with automatic
transmission.
(5) Install booster push rod on pedal pin (Fig. 3).
Secure push rod with original, or new retainer clip if
necessary.
(6) Install dash brace rod, if equipped.
(7) Check and adjust brakelight switch if neces-
sary. Refer to procedure in this section.
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH REMOVAL
The brakelight switch is mounted in the pedal sup-
port bracket and is operated by the pedal. The switch
is secured in the bracket with a retainer (Fig. 4).
(1) Remove steering column cover and lower trim
panel for switch access, if necessary.
(2) Disconnect switch wires.
(3) Thread switch out of retainer, or rock switch
up/down and pull it rearward out of retainer.
(4) Inspect switch retainer. Replace retainer if
worn, distorted, loose, or damaged.
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH INSTALLATION
(1) Insert replacement switch in retainer. Thread
switch into place or rock it up/down until switch
plunger touches brake pedal.
(2) Connect switch wires.
(3) Check switch operation. Adjust switch position
if necessary. Refer to procedures in this section.
(4) Install trim panels (if removed).
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
A plunger-type brakelight switch is used on XJ
and YJ models (Fig. 4). The switch plunger is actu-
ated directly by the brake pedal.
The switch internal contacts are open when the
brake pedal is in the released position. Brake appli-
cation moves the pedal away from the switch allow-
ing the plunger to extend. As the plunger extends,
the switch internal contacts close completing the cir-
cuit to the brakelights.
A circular, metal clip is used to secure the switch
to the bracket on the pedal support. The clip has
tangs that seat in the threads of the switch plunger
barrel.
SWITCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
(1) Check switch adjustment. Move the brake
pedal forward by hand and note operation of the
switch plunger. Plunger should be fully extended
when pedal free play is taken up and brake applica-
tion begins. A clearance of approximately 3 mm (1/8
in.) should exist between plunger and pedal at this
point.
(a) If switch-to-pedal clearance is OK and brake-
lights operate correctly, adjustment is not required.
(b) If switch plunger does not fully extend and
clearance between pedal and switch barrel is insuf-
ficient, adjust switch position as described in step
(2).
Fig. 3 Push Rod Attachment At Brake Pedal (XJ)
Fig. 4 Brakelight Switch Mounting And Location
(XJ/YJ)
5 - 66 BRAKE PEDAL AND BRAKELIGHT SWITCHJ

CLUTCH
CONTENTS
page page
CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS..................... 3
CLUTCH SERVICE...................... 10GENERAL INFORMATION.................. 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
INDEX
page page
Clutch Component Lubrication................ 1
Clutch Components........................ 1Clutch Linkage Fluid....................... 1
Clutch Operation.......................... 2
CLUTCH COMPONENTS
MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
The clutch mechanism in XJ/YJ models with man-
ual transmission consists of a single, dry-type clutch
disc and a diaphragm style clutch cover. A hydraulic
linkage is used to operate the clutch disc and cover.
The transmission input shaft is supported in the
crankshaft by a bearing. A sleeve type release bear-
ing is used to engage and disengage the clutch cover
pressure plate.
The release bearing is operated by a release fork in
the clutch housing. The fork pivots on a ball stud
mounted inside the housing. The release fork is actu-
ated by a hydraulic slave cylinder mounted in the
housing. The slave cylinder is operated by a clutch
master cylinder mounted on the dash panel. The cyl-
inder push rod is connected to the clutch pedal.
The clutch disc has cushion springs in the disc hub.
The clutch disc facing is riveted to the hub. The fac-
ing is made from a non-asbestos material. The clutch
cover pressure plate is a diaphragm type with a one-
piece spring and multiple release fingers. The pres-
sure plate release fingers are preset during
manufacture and are not adjustable.
HYDRAULIC LINKAGE COMPONENTS
The hydraulic linkage consists of a clutch master
cylinder with integral reservoir, a clutch slave cylin-
der and an interconnecting fluid line.
The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected to
the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder push rod is con-
nected to the clutch release fork. The master cylinder
is mounted on the driver side of the dash panel ad-jacent to the brake master cylinder and booster as-
sembly. This positioning is similar for both left and
right hand drive models.
CLUTCH LINKAGE FLUID
The integral clutch master cylinder reservoir, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are prefilled with fluid prior
to assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances. In fact,the reser-
voir fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. For this reason, it is impor-
tant to avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from
the reservoir.
If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid
may be needed, use Mopar brake fluid, or an equiv-
alent meeting standards SAE J1703 and DOT 3. Do
not use any other type of fluid.
CLUTCH COMPONENT LUBRICATION
Proper clutch component lubrication is important
to satisfactory operation. Using the correct lubricant
and not overlubricating are equally important. Apply
recommended lubricant sparingly to avoid disc and
pressure plate contamination.
Clutch and transmission components requiring lu-
brication are:
²pilot bearing
²release lever pivot ball stud
²release lever contact surfaces
²release bearing bore
²clutch disc hub splines
²clutch pedal pivot shaft bore
²clutch pedal bushings
²input shaft splines
JCLUTCH 6 - 1

²input shaft pilot hub
²transmission front bearing retainer slide surface
Never apply grease to any part of the clutch
cover, or disc.
RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS
Use Mopar multi-purpose grease for the clutch
pedal bushings and pivot shaft. Use Mopar high tem-
perature grease (or equivalent) for all other lubrica-
tion requirements. Apply recommended amounts and
do not overlubricate.
CLUTCH OPERATION
Leverage, spring force and friction are what make
the clutch work. The disc serves as the friction ele-
ment. The diaphragm spring acting on the pressure
plate provides the apply (or clamping) force. And the
pedal, hydraulic linkage, release lever and bearing
provide the leverage.
The clutch cover, which is bolted to the flywheel, is
the component that clamps the disc against the fly-
wheel. The cover is actually an assembly consisting
of the cover, diaphragm spring, pressure plate, and
fulcrum components.
It is the clutch cover pressure plate that actually
clamps the clutch disc against the flywheel. Pressure
plate force is supplied by the diaphragm spring.
The disc has a splined hub for installation on the
transmission input shaft splines. The splined hub is
what connects the disc to the transmission.The clutch linkage uses hydraulic pressure to oper-
ate the clutch. The clutch master cylinder is con-
nected to the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder is
connected to the release lever. In operation, pressing
the clutch pedal develops fluid pressure in the clutch
master cylinder. This pressure is then transmitted
directly to the slave cylinder via the connecting line.
In turn, the slave cylinder operates the clutch release
lever.
The clutch release bearing is mounted on the
transmission front bearing retainer. The bearing is
attached to the release lever which moves the bear-
ing in and out of contact with the diaphragm spring.
In operation, slave cylinder force causes the release
lever to pivot toward the clutch. This action moves
the release bearing into direct contact with the dia-
phragm spring fingers. As additional force is applied,
the release bearing pushes the spring fingers inward
relieving spring force on the pressure plate. At this
point, the clutch disc is disengaged and freewheeling.
The process of clutch re-engagement, is simply the
reverse of what occurs during disengagement. Re-
leasing pedal pressure removes linkage pressure. The
release bearing moves away from the spring which
again applies clamping force on the disc through the
pressure plate.
6 - 2 CLUTCHJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3