1994 JEEP CHEROKEE wheel bolts

(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.
(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703
and DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).(3) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(4) Remove caliper hose fitting bolt and disconnect
front brake hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt wash-
ers. They are not reusable and should be replaced.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
JBRAKES 5 - 27

ence) of piston and caliper boot groove (Fig. 24).
Grease serves as corrosion protection for these areas.
(8) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(9) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 25).
(10) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose fitting to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new washers on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 26).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 27).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 27).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on hub.
(2) Install caliper.
Fig. 24 Typical Caliper/Piston Areas To Be Lightly
Coated With Silicone Grease
Fig. 25 Seating Caliper Piston Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 26 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
5 - 30 BRAKESJ

(2) Verify that left/right automatic adjuster lever
and cable are properly connected.
(3) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge un-
til gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 6).
(4) Reverse gauge and install it on brakeshoes
(Fig. 6). Position gauge legs at shoe centers as
shown. If gauge does not fit (too loose or tight), ad-
just shoes.
(5) Pull shoe adjuster star wheel away from ad-
juster lever.
(6) Turn adjuster star wheel (by hand) to expand
or retract brakeshoes. Continue adjustment until
gauge outside legs are light drag-fit on shoes (Fig. 7).
(7) Repeat adjustment at opposite brakeshoe as-
sembly.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower ve-
hicle.
(9) Make final adjustment as follows:
(a) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop.
(b) Repeat procedure 8-10 times to actuate self
adjuster components and equalize adjustment.
(c)Bring vehicle to complete standstill at
each stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will NOT
activate adjuster mechanism.
WHEEL CYLINDER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Disconnect brakeline at wheel cylinder.If cyl-
inder brakeline fitting is hard to break loose,
spray generous amount of Mopar Rust Pene-
trant between fitting and line and around fitting
threads in wheel cylinder. Note that it may re-
quire a few minutes for penetrant to work.
(3) Remove brakeshoes.
(4) Remove bolts attaching wheel cylinder to sup-
port plate and remove cylinder.
WHEEL CYLINDER OVERHAUL (Figs. 8 and 9)
(1) Remove links.
(2) Remove dust boots.
(3) Remove cups and pistons. Discard cups.
(4) Remove and discard spring and expander.
(5) Remove bleed screw.
(6) Clean cylinder, pistons and links with Mopar
brake cleaner.
(7) Inspect cylinder bore and pistons. Light discol-
oration of bore is acceptable. However, replace cylin-
der if bore and pistons are scored, pitted, or corroded.
Do not hone cylinder bores or polish pistons.
Replace cylinder as an assembly if bore is dam-
aged.
(8) Install bleed screw.
Fig. 5 Adjuster Screw Components (9-Inch Brake)
Fig. 6 Adjusting Gauge To Brake Drum
Fig. 7 Adjusting Brakeshoes To Gauge
Fig. 8 Wheel Cylinder (9-Inch Brake)
5 - 36 BRAKESJ

(9) Coat cylinder bore, pistons, cups and expander
with brake fluid and reassemble cylinder compo-
nents. Be sure piston cup lips face expander.
WHEEL CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply small bead of silicone sealer around cyl-
inder mounting surface of support plate.
(2) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder fitting by
hand.
(3) Align and seat wheel cylinder on support plate
(Fig. 10).
(4) Install cylinder mounting bolts (Fig. 10).
Tighten bolts to 10 Nzm (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Tighten brakeline fitting to 15 Nzm (132 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge.
(7) Install brake drums and lower vehicle.
(8) Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.
SUPPORT PLATE REPLACEMENT
The support plate should cleaned and inspected
whenever the drum brake components are being ser-
viced.
Check the support plate for wear, or rust through
at the contact pads and replace the plate if neces-
sary. Be sure to lubricate the contact pads with Mo-
par multi-mileage grease before shoe installation.
Lubrication will avoid noisy operation and shoe bind.
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel/tire assembly.(2) Remove brake drum, brakeshoes, and wheel
cylinder.
(3) Remove axle shaft as described in Group 3.
(4) Remove support plate attaching nuts and re-
move support plate.
(5) Clean axle tube flange. If gasket is not used on
flange, apply thin bead of silicone adhesive/sealer to
flange.
(6) Position new support plate on axle tube flange.
(7) Apply Mopar Lock N9Seal, or Loctite 242 to
support plate attaching nuts. Then install and
tighten nuts.
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease
to contact pads of new support plate.
(9) Install wheel cylinder and brakeshoes.
(10) Adjust brakeshoes to drums. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(11) Bleed brakes.
(12) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(13) Adjust parking brake cable tensioner. Refer to
procedure in Parking Brake section.
(14) Lower vehicle and verify proper service brake
and parking brake operation.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Brake drums can be machined to restore the brak-
ing surface. Use a brake lathe to clean up light scor-
ing and wear.
CAUTION: Never refinish a brake drum if machining
will cause the drum to exceed maximum allowable
brake surface diameter.
Brake drums that are warped, distorted, or se-
verely tapered should be replaced. Do not refinish
drums exhibiting these conditions. Brake drums that
are heat checked or have hard spots should also be
replaced.
If the brake drums are heavily coated with rust,
clean and inspect them carefully. Rust damage on
high mileage drums can be severe enough to require
replacement.
The maximum allowable diameter for the drum
braking surface is usually indicated on the drum
outer face (Fig. 11).
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching lug nuts must be tightened
properly to ensure efficient brake operation. Over-
tightening the nuts or tightening them in the wrong
sequence can cause distortion of the brake rotors and
drums.
Impact wrenches are not recommended for tighten-
ing wheel nuts. A torque wrench should be used for
this purpose.
A light coat of LPS Anti-Corrosion spray lube
around the hub face and on the studs will cut down
on rust/corrosion formation.
Fig. 9 Wheel Cylinder (10-Inch Brake)
Fig. 10 Wheel Cylinder Mounting
JBRAKES 5 - 37

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing. To avoid warping the cover, the bolts must tight-
ened alternately (diagonal pattern) and evenly (2-3
threads at a time) to specified torque.
Clutch Housing Misalignment
Clutch housing alignment is important to proper
clutch operation. The housing maintains alignment
between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment can cause clutch noise, hard shifting,
incomplete release and chatter. It can also result in
premature wear of the pilot bearing, cover release
fingers and clutch disc. In severe cases, misalign-
ment can also cause premature wear of the transmis-
sion input shaft and shaft bearing.
Housing misalignment is generally caused by in-
correct seating on the engine or transmission, loose
housing bolts, missing alignment dowels or housing
damage. Infrequently, misalignment may also be
caused by housing mounting surfaces that are not
completely parallel. Misalignment can be corrected
with shims.INSTALLATION METHODS AND PARTS
USAGE
Distortion of clutch components during installation
and the use of non-standard components are addi-
tional causes of clutch malfunction.
Improper clutch cover bolt tightening can distort
the cover. The usual result is clutch grab, chatter
and rapid wear. Tighten the cover bolts as described
in Clutch Service section.
An improperly seated flywheel and/or clutch hous-
ing are additional causes of clutch failure. Improper
seating will produce misalignment and additional
clutch problems.
The use of non-standard or low quality parts will
also lead to problems and wear. Use recommended
factory quality parts to avoid comebacks.
INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 1) outlines items
to be checked before and during clutch installation.
Use the chart as a check list to help avoid overlook-
ing potential problem sources during service opera-
tions.
The diagnosis charts describe common clutch prob-
lems, causes and correction. Fault conditions are
listed at the top of each chart. Conditions, causes and
corrective action are outlined in the indicated col-
umns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
6 - 4 CLUTCH DIAGNOSISJ

CLUTCH SERVICE
INDEX
page page
Clutch Cover and Disc Installation............ 10
Clutch Cover and Disc Removal............. 10
Clutch Fluid Level........................ 14
Clutch Housing Replacement................ 11
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Installation.......... 12
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Removal........... 11Clutch Pedal Installation................... 15
Clutch Pedal Removal..................... 15
Clutch Safety Precautions.................. 10
Flywheel Service......................... 15
Pilot Bearing Replacement................. 11
Release Bearing Replacement............... 11
CLUTCH SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. DUST AND DIRT ON
CLUTCH PARTS USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FI-
BERS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS
OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY
HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR DURING SERVICE
AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH COMPONENTS WITH
COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH A DRY BRUSH. EI-
THER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS WITH A WATER
DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VACUUM CLEANER
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR REMOVING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT CREATE DUST
BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC. REPLACE THE DISC
IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS DAMAGED OR
CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL DUST AND
DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED
BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL HELP MINIMIZE
EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO OTHERS. FOL-
LOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES
PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY
AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE
ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY (EPA), FOR
THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS
CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to procedures in
Group 21.
(2) If original clutch cover will be reinstalled,
mark position of cover on flywheel for assembly ref-
erence. Use paint or a scriber for this purpose.
(3) If clutch cover is to be replaced, cover bolts can
be removed in any sequence. However, if original
cover will be reinstalled, loosen cover bolts evenly
and in rotation to relieve spring tension equally.
This is necessary avoid warping cover.
(4) Remove cover bolts and remove cover and disc
(Fig. 2).
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit
emery cloth. Then clean surface with a wax and
grease remover.
(2) Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(3) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc as follows:
(a) Slide disc onto transmission input shaft
splines. Disc should slide freely on splines.
(b) Leave disc on shaft and check face runout
with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub and
about 6 mm (1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing.
(c) Face runout should not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020
in.). Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceeds
this limit.
(4) Position clutch disc on flywheel. Be sure side of
disc marked flywheel side is positioned against fly-
wheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, be sure flat side
of disc hub is toward flywheel.
(5) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc (Fig.
3).
(6) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on flywheel. Be sure disc hub is positioned
correctly. Side of hub marked Flywheel Side should
face flywheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, place flat
side of disc against flywheel.
(7) Position clutch cover over disc and on flywheel
(Fig. 3).
(8) Install clutch cover bolts finger tight.
(9) Tighten cover bolts evenly and in rotation a
few threads at a time.Cover bolts must be tight-
ened evenly and to specified torque to avoid dis-
torting cover. Tightening torques are 31 Nzm (23
ft. lbs.) on 2.5L engines and 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) on
4.0L engines.
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to pilot bearing hub and splines of
transmission input shaft.Do not overlubricate
shaft splines. This will result in grease contami-
nation of disc.
(11) Install transmission (Fig. 4). Refer to proce-
dures in Group 21.
6 - 10 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission as described in Group 21.
(2) Disconnect release bearing from release lever
and remove bearing (Fig. 5).
(3) Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(4) Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure
pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer
spring if bent or damaged in any way.
(5) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease. Apply grease to
end of long shank, small diameter flat blade screw-
driver. Then insert tool through clutch disc hub to
reach bearing.
(6) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot sur-face with Mopar high temperature grease.
(7) Install new release bearing. Be sure bearing is
properly secured to release fork.
(8) Install transmission as described in Group 21.
PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to Group 21 for
procedure.
(2) Remove clutch cover and disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing. Use internal (blind hole)
puller such those as supplied in Snap On Tool Set
CG40CB to remove bearing.
(4) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(5) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig.
6).
(6) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(7) Install clutch disc and cover as described in
this section.
(8) Install transmission. Refer to Group 21 for pro-
cedure.
CLUTCH HOUSING REPLACEMENT
The AX 15 clutch housing is removable and can be
replaced when the transmission is out of the vehicle.
The bolts attaching the housing to the transmis-
sion case are located inside the housing (Fig. 7). Rec-
ommended tightening torque for the clutch housing-
to-transmission bolts is 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.).
Be sure the transmission and housing mating
surfaces are clean before installing an original,
or replacement clutch housing. Dirt/foreign ma-
terial trapped between the housing and trans-
mission will cause misalignment. If
misalignment is severe enough, the result will be
clutch drag, incomplete release and hard shift-
ing.
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and
connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units. Also note that
removal/installation procedures for right and
left hand drive models are basically the same.
Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 8).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 2 Clutch Disc Position
Fig. 3 Typical Method Of Aligning Clutch Disc
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 11