1994 JEEP CHEROKEE length

plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered nor-
mal in condition and can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from
bending the center electrode while adjusting the
spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions,
severe detonation can also separate the insulator
from the center electrode (Fig. 27). Spark plugs with
this condition must be replaced.
PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Preignition damage is usually caused by excessive
combustion chamber temperature. The center elec-
trode dissolves first and the ground electrode dis-
solves somewhat latter (Fig. 28). Insulators appear
relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plug
has the correct heat range rating for the engine. De-
termine if ignition timing is over advanced, or if
other operating conditions are causing engine over-
heating. (The heat range rating refers to the operat-
ing temperature of a particular type spark plug.
Spark plugs are designed to operate within specifictemperature ranges. This depends upon the thickness
and length of the center electrodes porcelain insula-
tor.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
29). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 1000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
SPARK PLUG SECONDARY CABLES
TESTING
Spark plug cables are sometimes referred to as sec-
ondary ignition cables or secondary wires. The cables
transfer electrical current from the distributor to in-
dividual spark plugs at each cylinder. The spark plug
cables are of nonmetallic construction and have a
built in resistance. The cables provide suppression of
radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.
Fig. 26 Scavenger Deposits
Fig. 27 Chipped Electrode Insulator
Fig. 28 Preignition Damage
Fig. 29 Spark Plug Overheating
JIGNITION SYSTEMS 8D - 17

Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.To test ignition coil-to-distributor cap cable, do not
remove the cable from the cap. Connect ohmmeter to
rotor button (center contact) of distributor cap and
terminal at ignition coil end of cable. If resistance is
not within specifications as found in the Spark Plug
Cable Resistance chart, remove the cable from the
distributor cap. Connect the ohmmeter to the termi-
nal ends of the cable. If resistance is not within spec-
ifications as found in the Spark Plug Cable
Resistance chart, replace the cable. Inspect the igni-
tion coil tower for cracks, burns or corrosion.
For removal and installation of spark plug cables,
refer to Spark Plug Secondary Cables in the Compo-
nent Removal/Installation section.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TEST
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its
circuitry, refer to the DRB scan tool. Also refer to the
appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures man-
ual. To test the sensor only, refer to the following:
The throttle position sensor can be tested with a
digital voltmeter. The center terminal of the sensor
connector is the output terminal (Figs. 30 or 31).
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
Fig. 30 SensorÐ2.5L Engine
Fig. 31 SensorÐ4.0L Engine
8D - 18 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ

FUSIBLE LINK REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: Do not replace blown fusible links with a
standard wire. Only use fusible type wire with hypa-
lon insulation or damage to the electrical system
could occur. Also make sure correct gauge of wir-
ing is used. Refer to the wiring diagrams for proper
gauge and color.
When a fusible link blows it is important to find
out what the problem is. They are placed in the elec-
trical system for protection against shorts to ground.
This can be caused by a component failure or various
wiring failures.Do not just replace the fusible
link to correct the problem.
When diagnosing a faulty fusible link it is impor-
tant to check the wire carefully. In some instances
the link may be blown and it will not show through
the insulation, the wire should be checked over its
entire length for internal breaks.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Cut out the blown portion of the fusible link.
(3) Strip 1 inch of insulation from each end of the
existing fusible link.
(4) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the fusible link. Make sure the tubing will be
long enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
(5) Cut a replacement piece of fusible link approx-
imately two inches longer than the piece removed.
(6) Remove one inch of insulation from each end of
the replacement fusible link.
(7) Spread the strands of wire apart on each of the
exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(8) Push the two ends of the wire together until
the strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7
example 2).
(9) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(10) Solder the wires together using rosin core type
solder only.Do not use acid core type solder.
(11) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(12) Secure the fusible link to the existing ones to
prevent chafing or damage to the insulation.
(13) Connect battery and test affected systems.
WIRING REPAIR
When replacing or repairing a wire, it is important
that the correct gauge be used as shown in the wir-
ing diagrams. The wires must also be held securely
in place to prevent damage to the insulation.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each end of
the wire.
(3) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.(4) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each of
the exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(5) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7 ex-
ample 2).
(6) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(7) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only.Do not use acid core solder.
(8) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(9) Secure the wire to the existing ones to prevent
chafing or damage to the insulation.
(10) Connect battery and test affected systems.
CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector to be repaired from its
mating half.
(3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 8).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal while pulling on the wire to remove the
terminal from the connector (Fig. 9).
(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector.
(7) Repeat steps four through six for each wire in
the connector, being sure that all wires are inserted
into the proper cavities. For additional connector pin
out identification refer to the wiring diagrams.
(8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector.
(9) Connect connector to its mating half.
Fig. 7 Wire Repair
8W - 4 WIRING DIAGRAMSJ

(10) Connect battery and test affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect Battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired from
its mating half.
(3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator and remove six inches of tape from
the harness.
(4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side about
1/2 inch apart (Fig. 10).
(5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side.
(6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair (allow extra length
for soldered connections). Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 10).
(7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
(9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each of
the exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7 ex-
ample 2).
(11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(12) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only.Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(14) Repeat steps 8 through 13 for each wire.
(15) Re-tape the wire harness starting 1-1/2 inches
behind the connector and 2 inches past the repair.
(16) Reconnect the repaired connector.
(17) Connect battery and test affected systems.
TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired from
its mating half.
(3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 8).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal while pulling on the wire to remove the
terminal from the connector (Fig. 9).
(5) Cut the wire 6 inches from the back of the con-
nector.
(6) Remove 1 inch of insulation from the wire on
the harness side.
(7) Select a wire from the terminal repair assembly
that best matches the color wire being repaired.
(8) Cut the repair wire to the proper length and re-
move 1 inch of insulation.
(9) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
Fig. 8 Connector Locking Wedge Tab (Typical)
Fig. 9 Connector Locking Finger and Locking
Wedge (Typical)
Fig. 10 Stagger Cutting Wires
JWIRING DIAGRAMS 8W - 5

(3) Connect the CCV hoses (Fig. 1).
(4) Connect negative cable to battery.
ROCKER ARMS
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the capscrews at each bridge and pivot
assembly (Fig. 2). Alternately loosen the capscrews
one turn at a time to avoid damaging the bridges.
(3) Check for rocker arm bridges which are caus-
ing misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 2). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or ex-
cessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessivelyworn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for ob-
struction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and in-
stall push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the
pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge
above each cylinder in their originally position.
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses at
the engine thermostat housing. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean and is being
drained only to service the engine or cooling system,
drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the push rods (Fig. 2).Retain the
push rods, bridges, pivots and rocker arms in
the same order as removed.
(7) Loosen the serpentine drive belt at the power
steering pump, if equipped or at the idler pulley (re-
fer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper proce-
dure).
(8) If equipped with air conditioning, perform the
following:
Fig. 2 Rocker Arm Assembly
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 19

INSPECTION
Inspect for cracks in the combustion chambers and
valve ports.
Inspect for cracks on the exhaust seat.
Inspect for cracks in the gasket surface at each
coolant passage.
Inspect valves for burned, cracked or warped heads.
Inspect for scuffed or bent valve stems.
Replace valves displaying any damage.
VALVE REFACING
(1) Use a valve refacing machine to reface the in-
take and exhaust valves to the specified angle.
(2) After refacing, a margin of at least 0.787 mm
(0.031 inch) must remain (Fig. 8). If the margin is
less than 0.787 mm (0.031 inch), the valve must be
replaced.
VALVE SEAT REFACING
(1) Install a pilot of the correct size in the valve
guide bore. Reface the valve seat to the specified an-
gle with a good dressing stone. Remove only enough
metal to provide a smooth finish.
(2) Use tapered stones to obtain the specified seat
width when required.
(3) Control valve seat runout to a maximum of
0.0635 mm (0.0025 in.)Ð(Fig. 9).
VALVE STEM OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Valve stem oil seals are installed on each valve
stem to prevent rocker arm lubricating oil from en-
tering the combustion chamber through the valve
guide bores. One seal is marked INT (intake valve)
and the other is marked EXH (exhaust valve).Replace the oil seals whenever valve service is per-
formed or if the seals have deteriorated.
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are an integral part of the engine
cylinder head and are not replaceable.
When the valve stem guide clearance is excessive,
the valve guide bores must be reamed oversize. Ser-
vice valves with oversize stems are available in 0.076
mm (0.003 inch) and 0.381 mm (0.015 inch) incre-
ments.
Corresponding oversize valve stem seals are also
available and must be used with valves having 0.381
mm (0.015 inch) oversize stems.
If the valve guides are reamed oversize, the
valve seats must be ground to ensure that the
valve seat is concentric to the valve guide.
VALVE STEM-TO-GUIDE CLEARANCE
MEASUREMENT
Valve stem-to-guide clearance may be measured by
either of the following two methods.
PREFERRED METHOD:
(1) Remove the valve from the head.
(2) Clean the valve stem guide bore with solvent
and a bristle brush.
(3) Insert a telescoping gauge into the valve stem
guide bore approximately 9.525 mm (.375 inch) from
the valve spring side of the head (Fig. 10).
(4) Remove and measure telescoping gauge with a
micrometer.
(5) Repeat the measurement with contacts length-
wise to engine cylinder head.
(6) Compare the crosswise to lengthwise measure-
ments to determine out-of-roundness. If the measure-
ments differ by more than 0.0635 mm (0.0025 in.),
ream the guide bore to accommodate an oversize
valve stem.
Fig. 8 Valve Facing Margin
Fig. 9 Measurement of Valve Seat Runout
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 23

(3) Check for rocker arm bridges which are caus-
ing misalignment of the rocker arm to valve tip area.
(4) Remove the bridges, pivots and corresponding
pairs of rocker arms (Fig. 2). Place them on a bench
in the same order as removed.
(5) Remove the push rods and place them on a
bench in the same order as removed.
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or ex-
cessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessively
worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for ob-
struction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and in-
stall push rods in their original locations. Ensurethat the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equiv-
alent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the
pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge
above each cylinder in their originally position.
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alter-
nately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD
This procedure can be done with the engine in or
out of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the coolant and disconnect the hoses at
the engine thermostat housing. DO NOT waste reus-
able coolant. If the solution is clean and is being
drained only to service the engine or cooling system,
drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove the capscrews, bridge and pivot assem-
blies and rocker arms (Fig. 2).
(6) Remove the push rods (Fig. 2).Retain the
push rods, bridges, pivots and rocker arms in
the same order as removed.
(7) Loosen the serpentine drive belt at the power
steering pump, if equipped or at the idler pulley (re-
fer to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper proce-
dure).
(8) If equipped with air conditioning, perform the
following:
(a) Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor
mounting bracket and set the compressor aside.
(b) Remove the air conditioner compressor
bracket bolts from the engine cylinder head.
(c) Loosen the through bolt at the bottom of the
bracket.
(9) If equipped, disconnect the power steering
pump bracket. Set the pump and bracket aside. DO
NOT disconnect the hoses.
(10) Remove the fuel lines and vacuum advance
hose.
Fig. 2 Rocker Arm Assembly
9 - 60 4.0L ENGINEJ

gle with a good dressing stone. Remove only enough
metal to provide a smooth finish.
(2) Use tapered stones to obtain the specified seat
width when required.
(3) Control valve seat runout to a maximum of
0.0635 mm (0.0025 in.)Ð(Fig. 7).
VALVE STEM OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
Valve stem oil seals are installed on each valve
stem to prevent rocker arm lubricating oil from en-
tering the combustion chamber through the valve
guide bores. One seal is marked INT (intake valve)
and the other is marked EXH (exhaust valve).
Replace the oil seals whenever valve service is per-
formed or if the seals have deteriorated.
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are an integral part of the engine
cylinder head and are not replaceable.
When the valve stem guide clearance is excessive,
the valve guide bores must be reamed oversize. Ser-
vice valves with oversize stems are available in 0.076
mm (0.003 inch) and 0.381 mm (0.015 inch) incre-
ments.
Corresponding oversize valve stem seals are also
available and must be used with valves having 0.381
mm (0.015 inch) oversize stems.
If the valve guides are reamed oversize, the
valve seats must be ground to ensure that the
valve seat is concentric to the valve guide.
VALVE STEM-TO-GUIDE CLEARANCE
MEASUREMENT
Valve stem-to-guide clearance may be measured by
either of the following two methods.
PREFERRED METHOD:
(1) Remove the valve from the head.
(2) Clean the valve stem guide bore with solvent
and a bristle brush.
(3) Insert a telescoping gauge into the valve stemguide bore approximately 9.525 mm (.375 inch) from
the valve spring side of the head (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove and measure telescoping gauge with a
micrometer.
(5) Repeat the measurement with contacts length-
wise to engine cylinder head.
(6) Compare the crosswise to lengthwise measure-
ments to determine out-of-roundness. If the measure-
ments differ by more than 0.0635 mm (0.0025 in.),
ream the guide bore to accommodate an oversize
valve stem.
(7) Compare the measured valve guide bore diam-
eter with specifications (7.95-7.97 mm or 0.313-0.314
inch). If the measurement differs from specification
by more than 0.076 mm (0.003 inch), ream the guide
bore to accommodate an oversize valve stem.
ALTERNATIVE METHOD:
(1) Use a dial indicator to measure the lateral
movement of the valve stem (stem-to-guide clear-
ance). This must be done with the valve installed in
its guide and just off the valve seat (Fig. 9).
(2) Correct clearance is 0.025-0.0762 mm (0.001-
0.003 inch). If indicated movement exceeds the spec-
ification ream the valve guide to accommodate an
oversize valve stem.
Valve seats must be ground after reaming the
valve guides to ensure that the valve seat is con-
centric to the valve guide.
VALVE SPRING TENSION TEST
Use Valve Spring Tester C-647 and a torque
wrench to test each valve spring for the specified ten-
sion value (Fig. 10).
Fig. 7 Measurement of Valve Seat Runout
Fig. 8 Measurement of Valve Guide Bore Diameter
9 - 64 4.0L ENGINEJ