1993 FORD MONDEO oil type

Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle, always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on ramps.
Never venture
under a car
which is only
supported by
a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with
heart problems
or a pacemaker.
Don’t work on or
near the ignition
system with the
engine running or the
ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the
hands, face or any other part of
the body to injector spray; the
fuel can penetrate the skin with
potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.
0•5Safety First!
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Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
0•9MOT Test Checks
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0•10
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test
can be carried out later to check that the
vehicle pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-
bearing areas. (These include chassis box
sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,
and all suspension, steering, braking system
and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)
Any corrosion which has seriously reduced
the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow
the engine speed to return to idle, and watchfor smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time or writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000
rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,
this counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
MOT Test Checks
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1•2Lubricants, Fluids & Capacities
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
EngineMultigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better, viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/30
Manual transmissionGear oil to Ford specification ESD-M2C-186-A
Automatic transmissionTransmission fluid to Ford specification ESP-M2C-166-H
Power steeringTransmission fluid to Ford specification ESP-M2C-166-H
Cooling systemSoft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems) to
Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A
Braking systemHydraulic fluid to Ford specification ESD-M6C-57-A, Super DOT 4 or equivalent
Driveshaft jointsLong-life grease to Ford specification SQM-1C 9004-A
Capacities
Engine oil:
At oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres
Dry - at engine overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.50 litres
Difference between dipstick minimum and
maximum level notches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.0 litre
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.5 litresCooling system:
Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.6 litres
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.1 litres
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.6 litres
Automatic transmission:
Total, including fluid cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 litres
Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.6 litres
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This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain the Ford Mondeo models
for peak performance, economy, safety and
long life.
On the following pages are Sections
dealing specifically with each item on the
maintenance schedule. Visual checks,
adjustments, component replacement and
other helpful items are included. Refer to the
accompanying illustrations of the engine
compartment and the underside of the vehicle
for the location of various components.
Servicing your Mondeo in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide it with a
planned maintenance programme, which
should result in a long and reliable service life.
This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at the specified
service intervals will not produce the same
results.
As you service your Mondeo, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the nature of the particular procedure you’re
performing, or because of the close proximity
to one another of two otherwise-unrelated
components.
For example, if the vehicle is raised for anyreason, you should inspect the exhaust,
suspension, steering and fuel systems while
you’re under the vehicle. When you’re
checking the tyres, it makes good sense to
check the brakes and wheel bearings,
especially if the roadwheels have already
been removed.
Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or
hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to
tighten the spark plugs, you might as well
check the torque of as many critical fasteners
as time allows.
The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections which are relevant to the procedures
you’re planning to carry out, then make a list
of, and gather together, all the parts and tools
you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you
might run into problems during a particular
segment of some procedure, seek advice
from your local parts man or dealer service
department.
Ford state that, where antifreeze to
specification ESD-M97B-49-A (the type with
which the vehicle’s cooling system would
have been filled on production at the factory)
is used, it will last the lifetime of the vehicle.This is subject to it being used in the
recommended concentration, unmixed with
any other type of antifreeze or additive, and
topped-up when necessary using only that
antifreeze mixed 50/50 with clean water. If any
other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime
guarantee no longer applies; to restore the
lifetime protection, the system must be
drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed
before fresh coolant mixture is poured in.
If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the
quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown,
owners who wish to follow Ford’s
recommendations are advised to drain and
thoroughly reverse-flush the system, as
outlined in Section 28, before refilling with
fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate
quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can
then be left for the life of the vehicle.
If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be
used, the coolant must be renewed at regular
intervals to provide an equivalent degree of
protection; the conventional recommendation
is to renew the coolant every two years.
The above assumes the use of a mixture (in
exactly the specified concentration) of clean,
soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s
specification or equivalent. It is also assumed
that the cooling system is maintained in a
scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that
only clean coolant is added on topping-up,
and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever
the coolant is drained (Section 28).
2 Coolant renewal
1 Introduction
1•6Weekly checks
Weekly checks
General
1Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, braking and other
systems. Because these fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants and
fluids and capacities”at the beginning of this
Chapter before adding fluid to any of the
following components. Note:The vehicle
must be on level ground before fluid levels can
be checked.
Engine oil
2The engine oil level is checked with a
dipstick located at the front of the engine; it
can be identified by its yellow/black plastic
grip (see illustration). The dipstick extends
through a metal tube, from which it protrudes
down into the sump at the bottom of the
engine.
3The oil level should be checked before the
vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the
engine has been switched off.4Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all
the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper
towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and
minimum levels, indicated by notches (seeillustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way
back into its metal tube, and pull it out again.
Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its
level should be between these two notches.
5Do not allow the level to drop below the
minimum level notch, or oil starvation may
cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling
the engine (adding oil above the maximum
level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs,
oil leaks or oil seal failures.
6The yellow/black plastic oil filler cap is
screwed into the left-hand front end of the
3 Fluid level checks
3.2 The engine oil dipstick (arrowed) is
located at the front of the engine - note
yellow/black plastic grip
3.4 The oil level should be at or near the
maximum level notch (A) - if not, add
enough oil to correct the level. It takes
approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre of oil to raise
the level from the minimum level notch (B)
to the maximum
If the level is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the engine upper
components, producing an inaccurate
dipstick reading.
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cylinder head cover; unscrew it to add oil (see
illustration). When topping-up, use only the
correct grade and type of oil, as given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter; use a
funnel if necessary to prevent spills. It takes
approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre of oil to raise the
level from the dipstick’s minimum level notch
to its maximum level notch. After adding the
oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the
engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is
redistributed around the engine - while you
are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks,
particularly around the oil filter or drain plug.
Stop the engine; check the oil level again,
after the oil has had enough time to drain from
the upper block and cylinder head galleries.
7Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A continually-
dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals and from loose connections,
or oil consumption past worn piston rings or
valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown - the engine’s
compression pressure should be checked
immediately (see Chapter 2A). The condition
of the oil should also be checked. Each time
you check the oil level, slide your thumb and
index finger up the dipstick before wiping off
the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles
clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be
changed (Section 15).
Coolant
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your skin
or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Flush contaminated areas
immediately with plenty of water. Don’t
store new coolant, or leave old coolant
lying around, where it’s accessible to
children or pets - they’re attracted by its
sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small
amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up
garage-floor and drip-pan spills
immediately. Keep antifreeze containers
covered, and repair cooling system leaks
as soon as they’re noticed.8All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling
system. A translucent plastic expansion tank,
located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment, is connected by a hose to the
thermostat housing. As the coolant heats up
during engine operation, surplus coolant
passes through the connecting hose into the
expansion tank; a connection to the radiator
bottom hose union allows coolant to circulate
through the tank and back to the water pump,
thus purging any air from the system. As the
engine cools, the coolant is automatically
drawn back into the cooling system’s main
components, to maintain the correct level.
9While the coolant level must be checked
regularly, remember therefore that it will vary
with the temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should be
between the “MAX” and “MIN” level lines on
the tank, but once the engine has warmed up,
the level may rise to above the “MAX” level
line.
10For an accurate check of the coolant
level, the engine must be cold. The level must
be between the “MAX” and “MIN” level lines
on the tank (see illustration). If it is below the
“MIN” level line, the coolant must be topped-
up as follows.
11First prepare a sufficient quantity of
coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and
antifreeze of the recommended type, in the
specified mixture ratio. If you are using
antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent
(see the note at the beginning of Section 2 of
this Chapter), mix equal quantities of water
and antifreeze to produce the 50/50 mixture
ratio specified when topping-up; if using any
other type of antifreeze, follow its
manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the
correct ratio. If only a small amount of coolant
is required to bring the system up to the
proper level, plain water can be used, but
repeatedly doing this will dilute the
antifreeze/water solution in the system,
reducing the protection it should provide
against freezing and corrosion. To maintainthe specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is
essential to top-up the coolant level with the
correct mixture, as described here. Use only
ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not
use supplementary inhibitors or additives.
Warning: Never remove the
expansion tank filler cap when
the engine is running, or has just
been switched off, as the cooling system
will be hot, and the consequent escaping
steam and scalding coolant could cause
serious injury.
12If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
system has cooled completely (or at least 10
minutes after switching off the engine, if lack
of time means it is absolutely necessary to
top-up while the engine may still be warm).
Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank
filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any
hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until
the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is
released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap
until it can be removed. If more hissing
sounds are heard, wait until they have
stopped before unscrewing the filler cap
completely. At all times, keep your face,
hands and other exposed skin well away from
the filler opening.
13When the filler cap has been removed,
add coolant to bring the level up to the “MAX”
level line (see illustration). Refit the cap,
tightening it securely.
14With this type of cooling system, the
addition of coolant should only be necessary at
very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is
regularly required, or if the coolant level drops
within a short time after replenishment, there
may be a leak in the system. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap,
radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is
evident, have the filler cap and the entire
system pressure-tested by your dealer or
suitably-equipped garage; this will usually show
up a small leak not otherwise visible. If
significant leakage is found at any time, use an
antifreeze hydrometer to check the con-
centration of antifreeze remaining in the coolant.
1•7
13.13 Remove the cap to add coolant only
when the engine is cold - top-up to the
“MAX” level line using the specified
coolant mixture3.6 The yellow/black oil filler cap is
screwed into the cylinder head cover.
Always make sure the area around the
opening is clean before unscrewing the
cap, to prevent dirt from contaminating the
engine3.10 The cooling system expansion tank is
located on the right-hand side of the
engine compartment. The coolant level
must be between the tank “MAX” and
“MIN” level lines (arrowed) when the
engine is cold
Weekly checks
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amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically).
Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the
power of the battery in one to two hours are
hardest on the battery, and can damage
batteries not in good condition. This type of
charging should only be used in emergency
situations.
14The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to
16 hours.
1Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench setting.
General
1The auxiliary drivebelt is of the flat, multi-
ribbed (or “polyvee”) type, and is located on
the right-hand end of the engine. It drives the
alternator, water pump, power steering pump
and (when fitted) the air conditioning
compressor from the engine’s crankshaft
pulley.
2The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch anddeteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.
Check
3With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelt on the right-hand end of the engine,
under the engine right-hand mounting
bracket. (Be very careful, and wear protective
gloves to minimise the risk of burning your
hands on hot components, if the engine has
recently been running.) For improved access,
jack up the front right-hand side of the
vehicle, support it securely on an axle stand,
remove the roadwheel, then remove the
auxiliary drivebelt cover (two fasteners) from
inside the wheel arch (see illustration).
4Using an inspection light or a small electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the
drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber,
and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also
check for fraying and glazing, which gives the
drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of
the drivebelt should be inspected, which
means you will have to twist the drivebelt to
check the underside. Use your fingers to feel
the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are
in any doubt as to the condition of the
drivebelt, renew it (go to paragraph 7).
Drivebelt tension
5The auxiliary drivebelt is tensioned by an
automatic tensioner; regular checks are not
required, and manual “adjustment” is not
possible.
6If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping
and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is
otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do
this, remove the drivebelt as described below,
then unbolt the tensioner (two Torx-type
screws accessible from underneath, via the
wheel arch) from the alternator mounting
bracket (see illustration). On fitting the new
tensioner, ensure it is aligned correctly on its
mountings, and tighten the screws to the
specified torque wrench setting.
Renewal
7Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle and support it
securely on an axle stand, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (two fasteners) from inside the wheel
arch.
8If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way round.
9Reaching up between the body and the
engine (above and to the rear of the
crankshaft pulley), apply a spanner to the
hexagon in the centre of the automatic
tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley
clockwise to release its pressure on the
drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the
crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner
again (see illustration). Working from the
wheel arch or engine compartment as
necessary, and noting its routing, slip the
drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and
withdraw it.
10Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their
grooves are clean, and removing all traces of
oil and grease. Check that the tensioner
works properly, with strong spring pressure
11 Auxiliary drivebelt check and
renewal
10 Seat belt check
1•13
1
11.9 Rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise
to release its pressure on the drivebelt,
then slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft
pulley
11.3 Removing the auxiliary drivebelt
cover - it is secured by a fastener at each
end (arrowed) - from inside the right-hand
front wheel arch
11.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs
of wear like these. Very small cracks across
the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If the
cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt looks
worn or damaged in any other way, renew it
11.6 The auxiliary drivebelt is tensioned by
an automatic tensioner; Torx screws
(arrowed) secure it to alternator mounting
bracket
Every 10 000 miles
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5Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the
exact source of the leak can be identified.
Vacuum hoses
6It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be colour-coded, or to be identified by
coloured stripes moulded into them. Various
systems require hoses with different wall
thicknesses, collapse resistance and
temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be taken
when inspecting or servicing fuel
system components. Work in a well-
ventilated area, and do not allow open
flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights,
etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work
area. Mop up any spills immediately, and
do not store fuel-soaked rags where they
could ignite.
10Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on thehose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring-type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly after previous work has
been carried out.
3Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5Check all electrical connectors, ensuringthat they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7Check the condition of the battery
connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found (see Chap-
ter 5). Use the same techniques to ensure that
all earth points in the engine compartment
provide good electrical contact through clean,
metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened. (In addition to the earth connection
at the engine lifting eye, and that from the
transmission to the body/battery, there are
one or two earth points behind each headlight
assembly, and one below the power steering
fluid reservoir.)
8Refer to Section 31 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any fittings or
remove any components until
after the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant must be properly
discharged into an approved type of
container, at a dealer service department
or an automotive air conditioning repair
facility capable of handling R134a
refrigerant. Always wear eye protection
when disconnecting air conditioning
system fittings.
1The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn
or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 11).
(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,
bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).
(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
insects and other debris. Use a “fin
14 Air conditioning system
check
13 Engine compartment wiring
check
1•15
1
Every 10 000 miles
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