1993 FORD MONDEO cruise control

throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4.
Where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
3Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 9).
4Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration).
5Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
6Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
7Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that
the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
8On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see
illustration).
9Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start all
bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
10Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
11Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each
is numbered, and can also be identified by
the numbering on its respective coil terminal.
12Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air cleaner assembly cover with
the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke,
or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in
or near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas appliance
(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is
installed. If you spill petrol on your skin,
rinse it off immediately. Have a fire
extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,
and know how to use it.
Removal
1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly, and slacken the
nuts securing the right-hand front roadwheel.
2Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4Unplugging the two electrical connectors
and disconnecting the vacuum hose (where
fitted), remove the air cleaner assembly cover
with the air mass meter, the resonator and the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4).
5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -
where fitted, disconnect also the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
6Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union.
7Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield; unclip the coolant hose
to allow it to be withdrawn. Slacken the
sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the
manifold, remove the two screws securing
the pipe to the ignition coil bracket, then
unscrew the sleeve nut securing the pipe to
the EGR valve - see Chapter 6 for full details if
required.
8Remove the two screws securing the wiring
“rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simply
so that it can be moved as required to reach
the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical
connectors to disconnect the camshaft
position sensor and the coolant temperature
sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition
coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold.
9Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the wiring of themanifold components from the engine wiring
loom.
10Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
(b) One from the union on the manifold’s left-
hand end.
(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
(d) One from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation
(EGR) valve.
11Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
12Unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder
head rear support plate/engine lifting eye,
then unscrew the bolt securing the support
plate/lifting eye to the alternator mounting
bracket.
13Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket.
14Remove the alternator (see Chapter 5).
15Unbolt the alternator mounting bracket
from the rear of the cylinder block and
withdraw it, together with the cylinder head
rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see
illustration).
6 Inlet manifold -
removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•7
2A
5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly in
cover groove5.6 Removing cylinder head cover
5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each
cover bolt spacer, as shown6.15 Alternator mounting bracket must be
unbolted from rear of cylinder block to
permit access to inlet manifold nut
procarmanuals.com

23If using Ford’s recommended procedure,
fit new oil seals to the camshafts as
described in paragraph 5 of Section 12.
24Using the marks and notes made on
dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to
its original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleys
to the camshafts, tightening the retaining
bolts loosely (see illustration). Slip the timing
belt back onto the pulleys (refer to para-
graph 21 of Section 10) and tighten the bolts
securely - use the forked holding tool
described in paragraph 18 of Section 10.
25The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 17
to 27 of Section 10.
Removal
Note:The following text assumes that the
cylinder head will be removed with both inlet
and exhaust manifolds attached; this
simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky
and heavy assembly to handle - an engine
hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of
injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate
components as the assembly is removed and
refitted. If it is wished first to remove the
manifolds, proceed as described in Sections
6 and 7 of this Chapter; amend the following
procedure accordingly.1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
3Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled.
4Unplugging the two electrical connectors,
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head cover, remove
the complete air cleaner assembly with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
5Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
6Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -where fitted, disconnect also the cruise control
actuator cable (see Chapter 12). Secure the
cable(s) clear of the engine/transmission.
7Unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe from the cylinder head rear support
plate/engine lifting eye, and from the front
support plate/pump bracket. Releasing its
wire clip, unplug the power steering pressure
switch electrical connector, then unbolt the
earth lead from the cylinder head rear support
plate/engine lifting eye.
8Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration). Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
9Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
(b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end (see illustration).
(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
(d) Disconnect all vacuum hoses from the
Exhaust Gas Recirculation system
components - one from the EGR valve
and two from the EGR pipe. (Note that
these last two are of different sizes, as are
their pipe stubs, so that they can only be
connected the correct way round.)
10Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow the
upper part to be withdrawn. Either remove the
dipstick and tube, or swing them out of the way.
11Unscrew the single bolt securing the
pulse-air filter housing to the engine/
transmission front mounting bracket, then
disconnect its vacuum hose.
12Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
14 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•17
2A
14.9 Disconnect vacuum hoses (arrowed)
as described in text14.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses
(arrowed) from thermostat housing
13.24 . . . while camshaft toothed pulleys
are refitted14.8A Release wire clip to unplug engine
wiring loom connector from inlet manifold14.8B Unplug connectors (arrowed) to
disconnect ignition coil wiring
Masking tape and/or a touch-
up paint applicator work
well for marking items.
Take instant photos, or
sketch the locations of components
and brackets.
procarmanuals.com

safely and with relative ease, and which may
have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in
addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty trolley
jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some wooden
blocks, and an engine dolly (a low, wheeled
platform capable of taking the weight of the
engine/transmission, so that it can be moved
easily when on the ground). A complete set of
spanners and sockets (as described in the front
of this manual) will obviously be needed,
together with plenty of rags and cleaning
solvent for mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and
fuel. If the hoist is to be hired, make sure that
you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine shop will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer can’t accomplish without special
equipment. These establishments often have
a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea
to consult them before removing the engine,
to accurately estimate the amount of time
required to rebuild or repair components that
may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and installing the engine/transmission.
Serious injury can result from careless
actions. By planning ahead and taking your
time, the job (although a major task) can be
accomplished successfully.
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light
bulbs in or near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding Section,
before beginning this procedure. The engine
and transmission are removed as a unit,
lowered to the ground and removed from
underneath, then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1. For better access
the battery may be removed completely (see
Chapter 5).
4Place protective covers on the wings and
engine compartment front crossmember, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled.
6Unplug the two electrical connectors,disconnect the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover, then remove the
complete air cleaner assembly, with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
7Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings (see illustration).
8Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -
where fitted, also disconnect the cruise
control actuator cable (see Chapter 12).
Secure the cable(s) clear of the
engine/transmission.
9Releasing its wire clip, unplug the power
steering pressure switch electrical connector,
then unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe and the earth lead from the cylinder head
rear support plate/engine lifting eye (see
illustrations).
10Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above), disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
4 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
2B•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.7 Note colour-coding of unions when
disconnecting fuel feed and return lines4.9A Unplug the power steering pressure
switch electrical connector . . .4.9B . . . unbolt the power steering high-
pressure pipe . . .
Whenever any wiring is disconnected, . . . vacuum hoses and pipes should
mark or label it as shown, to ensure be similarly marked
correct reconnection . . .
Masking tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations of components and brackets.
procarmanuals.com

Renewal
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5, Section 1.
4Remove the plenum chamber (see Sec-
tion 4).
5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
6Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator). Similarly release and unplug the
throttle potentiometer’s electrical connector.
7Clearly label, then detach, all vacuum hoses
from the throttle housing.
8Remove the throttle housing mounting
screws (see illustration), then detach the
throttle housing and gasket from the inlet
manifold. Discard the gasket - this must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
9Using a soft brush and carburettor cleaner,
thoroughly clean the exterior of the throttle
housing, then blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Caution: Do not clean the throttle
housing’s bore, the throttle valve,
or the potentiometer, either by
scraping or with a solvent. Just
wipe them over carefully with a clean soft
cloth.
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Fit a new gasket, and tighten the
housing screws to the specified torque.
Fuel rail and injectors
Check
11Refer to the procedure in the fuel system
check (see Section 15).
Renewal
Note:For simplicity, and to ensure the
necessary absolute cleanliness on
reassembly, the following procedure
describes the removal of the fuel rail
assembly, complete with the injectors and
pressure regulator, so that the injectors can be
serviced individually on a clean work surface.
It is also possible to remove and refit an
individual injector once the fuel system has
been depressurised and the battery has been
disconnected. If this approach is followed,
read through the complete procedure, and
work as described in the relevant paragraphs,
depending on the amount of preliminary
dismantling required. Be careful not to allow
any dirt to enter the system (see
illustrations).
12Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1.
14Remove the plenum chamber (see
Section 4).
15If the additional clearance is required,
disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5 or 6, as
appropriate). Where fitted, also disconnect
the cruise control actuator cable (see Chap-
ter 12).
16Releasing the wire clips, unplug the four
fuel injector electrical connectors.
17Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the quick-release couplings next to the
braking system vacuum servo unit, then
unclip the fuel hoses from the inlet manifold;
use rag to soak up any spilt fuel. Note:Do not
disturb the threaded couplings at the fuel rail
unions unless absolutely necessary; these aresealed at the factory. The quick-release
couplings will suffice for all normal service
operations.
18Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union, and the
vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator
(see illustration).
19Unscrew the three bolts securing the fuel
rail, and withdraw the rail, carefully prising it
out of the inlet manifold, and draining any
remaining fuel into a suitable clean container
(see illustrations). Note the seals between
the rail noses and the manifold; these must be
renewed whenever the rail is removed.
20Clamping the rail carefully in a vice fitted
with soft jaws, unscrew the two bolts securing
each injector, and withdraw the injectors.
Place each in a clean, clearly-labelled storage
container.
21If you are renewing the injector(s), discard
the old injector, the nose seal and the O-rings.
If you are simply renewing leaking injector O-
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
16.8 Undo screws (arrowed) to remove
throttle housing16.12A Fuel injectors can be unbolted
(arrowed) . . .16.12B . . . and removed individually if
required, but it is better to remove them
with the fuel rail, if servicing is necessary.
O-ring seals (arrowed) must be renewed
whenever injector is removed
16.18 Injector removal - disconnect fuel
lines at quick-release couplings (A), unclip
hoses (B), disconnect vacuum hose from
regulator (C), unplug electrical
connectors (D) - three of four shown - and
disconnect breather hose from union (E)
16.19A Unscrew bolts (arrowed) . . .
16.19B . . . and withdraw fuel rail with
injectors and pressure regulator - renew
nose seals (arrowed) whenever rail is
disturbed
procarmanuals.com

passes the sensor tip, a signal is generated,
which is used by the ECU to determine engine
speed.
4The ridge between the 35th and 36th holes
(corresponding to 90° BTDC) is missing - this
step in the incoming signals is used by the
ECU to determine crankshaft (ie, piston)
position.
Camshaft position sensor
5This is bolted to the rear left-hand end of
the cylinder head, to register with a lobe on
the inlet camshaft. It functions in the same
way as the crankshaft speed/position sensor,
producing a series of pulses (corresponding
to No 1 cylinder at 46° ATDC); this gives the
ECU a reference point, to enable it to
determine the firing order, and operate the
injectors in the appropriate sequence.
Coolant temperature sensor
6This component, which is screwed into the
top of the thermostat housing, is an NTC
(Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor
- that is, a semi-conductor whose electrical
resistance decreases as its temperature
increases. It provides the ECU with a
constantly-varying (analogue) voltage signal,
corresponding to the temperature of the
engine coolant. This is used to refine the
calculations made by the ECU, when
determining the correct amount of fuel
required to achieve the ideal air/fuel mixture
ratio.
Intake air temperature sensor
7This component, which is screwed into the
underside of the air intake resonator, is also an
NTC thermistor - see the previous paragraph -
providing the ECU with a signal corresponding
to the temperature of air passing into the
engine. This is used to refine the calculations
made by the ECU, when determining the
correct amount of fuel required to achieve the
ideal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Throttle potentiometer
8This is mounted on the end of the throttle
valve spindle, to provide the ECU with a
constantly-varying (analogue) voltage signal
corresponding to the throttle opening. This
allows the ECU to register the driver’s input
when determining the amount of fuel required
by the engine.
Vehicle speed sensor
9This component is a Hall-effect generator,
mounted on the transmission’s speedometer
drive. It supplies the ECU with a series of
pulses corresponding to the vehicle’s road
speed, enabling the ECU to control features
such as the fuel shut-off on the overrun, and
to provide information for the trip computer,
adaptive damping and cruise control systems
(where fitted).
Power steering pressure switch
10This is a pressure-operated switch,
screwed into the power steering system’shigh-pressure pipe. Its contacts are normally
closed, opening when the system reaches the
specified pressure - on receiving this signal,
the ECU increases the idle speed, to
compensate for the additional load on the
engine.
Exhaust gas pressure differential
sensor
11This component measures the difference
in pressure of the exhaust gases across a
venturi (restriction) in the Exhaust Gas
Recirculation (EGR) system’s pipe, and sends
the ECU a voltage signal corresponding to the
pressure difference.
Oxygen sensor
12The oxygen sensor in the exhaust system
provides the ECU with constant feedback -
“closed-loop” control - which enables it to
adjust the mixture to provide the best possible
conditions for the catalytic converter to
operate.
13The sensor has a built-in heating element
which is controlled by the ECU, in order to
bring the sensor’s tip to an efficient operating
temperature as rapidly as possible. The
sensor’s tip is sensitive to oxygen, and sends
the ECU a varying voltage depending on the
amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases. If the
intake air/fuel mixture is too rich, the exhaust
gases are low in oxygen, so the sensor sends
a low-voltage signal, the voltage rising as the
mixture weakens and the amount of oxygen in
the exhaust gases rises. Peak conversion
efficiency of all major pollutants occurs if the
intake air/fuel mixture is maintained at the
chemically-correct ratio for the complete
combustion of petrol, of 14.7 parts (by weight)
of air to 1 part of fuel (the “stoichiometric”
ratio). The sensor output voltage alters sharply
around this point, the ECU using the signal
change as a reference point, and correcting
the air/fuel mixture by altering the fuel injector
pulse width.
Air conditioning system
14Two pressure-operated switches and the
compressor clutch solenoid are connected to
the ECU, to enable it to determine how the
system is operating. The ECU can increase
idle speed or switch off the system, as
necessary, so that normal vehicle operation
and driveability are not impaired. See Chapter
3 for further details, but note that diagnosis
and repair should be left to a dealer service
department or air conditioning specialist.
Automatic transmission
15In addition to the driver’s controls, the
transmission has a speed sensor, a fluid
temperature sensor (built into the solenoid
valve unit), and a selector lever position
sensor. All of these are connected to the ECU,
to enable it to control the transmission
through the solenoid valve unit. See Part B of
Chapter 7 for further details.
Testing
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
16 Do notattempt to “test” the ECU with any
kind of equipment. If it is thought to be faulty,
take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for the entire
electronic control system to be checked using
the proper diagnostic equipment. Only if all
other possibilities have been eliminated should
the ECU be considered at fault, and replaced.
Air mass meter
17Testing of this component is beyond the
scope of the DIY mechanic, and should be left
to a Ford dealer.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
18Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
19Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Compare this reading to the one listed in the
Specifications Section at the beginning of this
Chapter. If the indicated resistance is not
within the specified range, renew the sensor.
20Plug in the sensor’s electrical connector
on completion.
Camshaft position sensor
21The procedure is as described in
paragraphs 18 to 20 above.
Coolant temperature sensor
22Refer to Chapter 3.
Intake air temperature sensor
23Unplug the electrical connector from the
sensor.
24Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but it
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. If the
sensor’s temperature is varied - by placing it
in a freezer for a while, or by warming it gently
- its resistance should alter accordingly.
25If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
Throttle potentiometer
26Remove the plenum chamber (see
Chapter 4) and unplug the potentiometer’s
electrical connector.
27Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the unit’s terminals - first
between the centre terminal and one of the
outer two, then from the centre to the
remaining outer terminal. The resistance
should be within the limits given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter, and
should alter smoothlyas the throttle valve is
moved from the fully-closed (idle speed)
position to fully open and back again.
28If the resistance measured is significantly
different from the specified value, if there are
any breaks in continuity, or if the reading
fluctuates erratically as the throttle is
operated, the potentiometer is faulty, and
must be renewed.
Emissions control systems 6•11
6
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 12 Body electrical system
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Anti-theft alarm system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Auxiliary warning system - general information and
component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery - check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses, relays and timer module - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8
Headlight levelling motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Radio/cassette player - coding, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radio/cassette player power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
TCS inhibition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Trip computer module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade
check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Fuses (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse No Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
1 80 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power supply to main fusebox
2 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fans
3 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel engine glow plugs and/or ABS braking system
4 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition system, or ignition and daytime running lights
5 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (left-hand side)
6 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (right-hand side)
7 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS braking system
8 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning compressor/heated seats or air conditioning
compressor/daytime running lights
9 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU (petrol), Cold start solenoid (Diesel)
10 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
11 3 Violet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU memory
12 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn and hazard flasher warning system
13 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor
14 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
15 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (right-hand side)
16 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (left-hand side)
17 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (right-hand side)
18 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (left-hand side)
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
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4The system module is located on a bracket
beneath the right-hand side of the facia. The
set and reset switches are located in a
housing by the lock barrel holder in the doors,
tailgate or bootlid.
5To allow temporary opening of the tailgate
or bootlid, an inhibit switch is fitted to the lock
barrel. This suppresses the alarm system until
the tailgate or bootlid is closed again.
6Where remote central locking is fitted, an
infra-red receiver is located on the exterior
door handle (see illustration). Note that
excessive heat can destroy this receiver;
therefore, it should be covered with aluminium
tape if (for instance) a paint-drying heat
process is to be used.
7The alarm system is fitted with its own horn.
On Hatchback and Saloon models, it is
located on the left-hand side of the luggage
compartment; on Estate models, it is located
on the right-hand side of the luggage
compartment (see illustration).
8The alarm system incorporates a self-test
function, which can be activated by operating
the bonnet switch or one of the lock position
switches eight times within 10 seconds.
During the check, the horn or buzzer issues
acoustic signals which should occur every
time a door, bonnet or tailgate is opened. If
the doors are double-locked, the signal will
occur when something is moved within the
passenger compartment. A more
comprehensive test can be made using the
Ford FDS 2000 diagnostic tester.
9The door lock switches associated with the
alarm system are located behind the door trim
panels (see illustration).
1Cruise control is available as an option on
some models.
2The cruise control system components are
shown in the accompanying illustration (see
illustration). The system is active at road
speeds between 25 mph and 125 mph.
3The system comprises an electronic speed
control unit with integral actuator and
21 Cruise control system -
general information
Body electrical system 12•19
12
21.2 Cruise control component location on left-hand drive models
1 Speed control unit
2 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
3 Throttle valve actuator
4 Interrupt relay (vehicles with traction control
system only)5 Stop-light switch, brake and clutch pedal-
operated disable switches
6 Driver’s controls (buttons on steering wheel)
20.6 Infra-red receiver location on the
door handle
1 Receiver 2 Infra-red eye on the door handle20.7 Alarm system horn location on
Hatchback and Saloon models20.10 Alarm system door lock switch
removal
1 Clips (arrowed) 2 Multi-plug
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switches mounted in the engine compartment
with a control cable connected to the throttle
valve actuator, driver-operated switches,
brake and clutch pedal switches, an indicator
light, and a road speed sensor.
4The driver-operated switches are mounted
on the steering wheel, and allow the driver to
control the various functions.
5The vehicle speed sensor uses the
speedometer cable drive pinion to generate
pulses which are fed to the speed control unit.
6The stop-light switch, brake pedal switch
and (when applicable) clutch pedal switch are
used to disable the cruise control system. The
stop-light switch is activated when the brake
pedal is applied gently, and the brake pedal
switch is activated when the brake pedal is
applied forcibly.
7An indicator light on the instrument panel is
illuminated when the system is in operation.
8The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the cruise control
system components. The battery negative
(earth) lead should be disconnected before
commencing work (refer to Chapter 5, Sec-
tion 1). Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Speed control switch
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, with reference to Chapter 10.
10Remove the air bag module as described
in Section 29.11Disconnect the multi-plugs, then unscrew
the screws and remove the switch.
Disable switches
12Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering column.
13Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
clutch switch, brake pedal switch and stop-
light switch.
14To remove the clutch and brake pedal
switches, twist them anti-clockwise. To
remove the stop-light switch, twist it
clockwise (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. To
ensure correct operation of the brake pedal
switches, reset the switch by fully extending
its plunger (see illustration).Depress the
pedal until the distance between it and the
mounting bracket is as shown in Chapter 9,
illustration 25.6. Hold the pedal in this
position, clip the switch securely into position
and gently raise the pedal to the at-rest
position. This will automatically set the
position of the switch.
Speed control actuator
16Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
17Disconnect the actuator cable from the
throttle linkage on the throttle housing, by
releasing the inner cable end fitting from the
segment and unclipping the outer cable from
the bracket.
18Unscrew the actuator mounting bolt, thenslide the actuator out of the mounting pin
holes.
19Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
assembly.
20Depress the actuating cable cap locking
arm, and remove the cap by turning it anti-
clockwise (see illustration).
21Gently raise the cable retaining lug by a
maximum of 0.5 mm, and push the cable end
out of the slot in the pulley.
22When refitting, make sure that the cable
end locks into the slot in the pulley.
23To locate the cable cap onto the actuator
pulley, keep the cable taut and in the pulley
groove, and pull the throttle linkage end of the
cable to draw the cable cap onto the pulley.
24To refit the cable cap, keep the cable taut
and the pulley still, then refit the cable cap
tabs into the actuator slots; turn the cap
clockwise until the locking arm locates on the
locking stop. Note:Incorrect assembly of the
cable onto the pulley may result in a high idle
speed. Check that the throttle lever is in its
idle position after refitting the actuator.
Removal
Washer reservoir and pump
1Unscrew the bolts, and release the clips to
remove the radiator lower cover.
2Unscrew the mounting bolts, and pull the
reservoir forwards slightly (see illustration).
For better access, it may be necessary to
remove the front bumper.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs for the
windscreen washer pump and fluid level
sensor (see illustration).
4Disconnect the hoses from the windscreen
washer pump and (where applicable) from the
headlamp washer pump. Anticipate some loss
of fluid by placing a container beneath the
reservoir.
5Withdraw the reservoir from the vehicle.
6Pull the level sensor, the windscreen
washer pump, and (where applicable) the
22 Windscreen/tailgate washer
system components -
removal and refitting
12•20 Body electrical system
21.14 Removal of the speed control
disable switches
1 Clutch switch 3 Stop-light switch
2 Brake pedal switch21.15 Resetting the brake pedal and stop-
light switches21.20 Removing the actuator cable
locking arm
22.2 Washer reservoir mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.3 Disconnecting the washer pump and
level sensor multi-plugs
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