1991 FORD FESTIVA Ignition switch

Starter Turns but Engine Does Not Rotate
Starter clutch slippingSee STARTER article
Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or drySee STARTER article
Engine basic timing incorrectSee Ignition Timing in
TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check
for starter pinion gear damage
Starter Will Not Crank Engine
Faulty overrunning clutchSee STARTER article
Broken clutch housingSee STARTER article
Broken flywheel teethReplace flywheel and check
for starter pinion gear damage
Armature shaft sheared or reduction gear teeth strippedSee STARTER article
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty solenoidSee On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor groundsCheck all ground connections
for tight and clean
connections
Ignition switch faulty or misadjustedAdjust or replace ignition
switch as necessary
Starter Cranks Engine Slowly
Battery weak or defectiveCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Engine overheatedSee ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM article
Engine oil too heavyCheck that proper viscosity
oil is used
Poor battery-to-starter connectionsCheck that all between
battery and starter are clean
and tight
Current draw too low or too highSee Bench Tests in
STARTER article
Bent armature, loose pole shoes screws or worn bearingsSee STARTER article
Burned solenoid contactsReplace solenoid
Faulty starterReplace starter
S t a r t e r E n ga ge s E n gin e On l y M o me n t a r il y
Engine timing too far advancedSee Ignition Timing in
TUNE-UP article
Overrunning clutch not engaging properlyReplace overrunning clutch.
See STARTER article
Broken starter clutchSee STARTER article
Broken teeth on engine flywheelReplace flywheel and check
starter pinion gear for damage
Weak drive assembly thrust springSee STARTER article
Weak hold-in coilSee Bench Tests in
STARTER article
Starter Drive Will Not Engage
Defective point assemblySee Testing in STARTER
article
Poor point assembly groundSee Testing in STARTER
article
Defective pull-in coilReplace starter solenoid
Starter Relay Does Not Close
Dead batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring and
connections leading to relay
Neutral safety switch faultyReplace neutral safety switch
Starter relay faultyReplace starter relay
Starter Drive Will Not Disengage
Starter motor loose on mountingsTighten starter attach bolts
Worn drive end bushingSee STARTER article
Damaged engine flywheel teethReplace flywheel and starter
pinion gear for damage
Drive yolk return spring broken or missingReplace return spring
Faulty ignition switchReplace ignition switch
Insufficient clearance between winding leads to solenoid terminal and main contact in solenoidReplace starter solenoid
Starter clutch not disengagingReplace starter clutch
Ignition starter switch contacts stickingReplace ignition switch
Starter Relay Operates but Solenoid Does Not
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TUNE-UP TROUBLE SHOOTING - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES
BASIC SPARK PLUG TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
Faulty solenoid switch, switch connections or relayCheck all wiring between
relay and solenoid or replace
relay or solenoid as necessary
Broken lead or loose soldered connectionsRepair wire or wire
connections as necessary
Solenoid Plunger Vibrates When Switch is Engaged
Weak batteryCharge or replace battery as
necessary
Solenoid contacts corrodedClean contacts or replace
solenoid
Faulty wiringCheck all wiring leading to
solenoid
Broken connections inside switch coverRepair connections or replace
solenoid
Open hold-in wireReplace solenoid
Low Current Draw
Worn brushes or weakReplace brushes or brush
springs as necessary
High Pitched Whine During Cranking Before Engine Fires but Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too great between starter pinion and flywheelAlign starter or check that
correct starter and flywheel
are being used
High Pitched Whine After Engine Fires With Key released. Engine Fires and Cranks Normally
Distance too small between starter pinion and flywheelFlywheel runout contributes
to the intermittent nature
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. T he purpose of this T rouble Shooting inform ation is to provide a list
of com m on causes to problem sym ptom s. For m odel-specific T rouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT ,
DIAGNOST IC, or T EST ING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Normal Spark Plug Condition
Light Tan or Gray depositsNo Action
Electrode not burned or fouledNo Action
Gap tolerance not changedNo Action
Cold Fouling or Carbon Deposits
Overrich air/fuel mixtureAdjust air/fuel mixture, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Faulty chokeReplace choke assembly, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Clogged air filterClean and/or replace air filter
Incorrect idle speed or dirty carburetorReset idle speed and/ or clean
carburetor
Faulty ignition wiresReplace ignition wiring
Prolonged operation at idleShut engine off during long
idle
Sticking valves or worn valve guide sealsCheck valve train
Wet Fouling or Oil Deposits
Worn rings and pistonsInstall new rings and pistons
Excessive cylinder wearRebore or replace block
Excessive valve guide clearanceWorn or loose bearing
Gap Bridged
Deposits in combustion chamber becoming fused to electrodeClean combustion chamber of
deposits
Blistered Electrode
Engine overheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Loose spark plugsRetighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Pre-Ignition or Melted Electrodes
Incorrect type of fuelReplace with correct fuel
Incorrect ignition timingReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valvesReplace valves
Engine OverheatingCheck cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, too hotReplace with correct spark
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BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS - USING OSCILLOSCOPE PATTERNS
plug, see ENGINE
PERFORMANCE
Chipped Insulators
Severe detonationCheck for over-advanced
timing or combustion
Improper gapping procedureRe-gap spark plugs
Rust Colored Deposits
Additives in unleaded fuelTry different fuel brand
Water In Combustion Chamber
Blown head gasket or cracked headRepair or replace head or head
ga ske t
NOTE:Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system , ensure that all wiring is connected properly between
distributor, wiring connector and spark plugs. Ignition problem will show up either as: Engine Will Not
Start or Engine Runs Rough.
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Engine Won't Start
Open circuit between distributor and bulkhead connectorRepair circuit
Open circuit between bulkhead connector and ignition switchRepair circuit
Open circuit between ignition switch and starter solenoidRepair circuit
Engine Runs Rough
Fuel lines leaking or cloggedTigh t e n fit t in g, r e mo ve
restriction
Initial timing incorrectReset ignition timing see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Centrifugal advance malfunctionRepair distributor advance
Defective spark plugs or wiringReplace plugs or plug wiring
Component Failure
Spark arc-over on cap, rotor or coilReplace cap, rotor or or coil
Defective pick-up coilReplace pick-up coil
Defective ignition coilReplace ignition coil
Defective vacuum unitReplace vacuum unit
Defective control moduleReplace control module
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
Firing Voltage Lines are the Same, but Abnormally High
Retarded ignition timingReset ignition timing, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section
Fuel mixture too leanReadjust carburetor, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
High resistance in coil wireReplace coil wire
Corrosion in coil tower terminalClean and/or replace coil
Corrosion in distributor coil terminalClean and/or replace
distributor cap
Firing Voltage Lines are the Same but Abnormally Low
Fuel mixture too richReadjust carburetor, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Breaks in coil wire causing arcingReplace coil wire
Cracked coil tower causing arcingReplace coil
Low coil outputReplace coil
Low engine compressionDetermine cause and repair
One or More, But Not All Firing Voltage Lines are Higher Than Others
Carburetor idle mixture not balancedReadjust carburetor, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
EGR valve stuck openClean and/or replace valve
High resistance in spark plug wiresReplace spark plug wires
Cracked or broken spark plug insulatorReplace spark plugs
Intake vacuum leakRepair leak
Defective spark plugsReplace spark plugs
Corroded spark plug terminalsReplace spark plugs
One or More, But Not All Firing Voltage Lines Are Lower Than Others
Curb idle mixture not balancedReadjust carburetor, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Breaks in plug wiresReplace plug wires causing
arcing
Cracked coil tower causing arcingReplace coil
Low compressionDetermine cause and repair
Defective spark plugsReplace spark plugs
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FUEL INJECTION TROUBLE SHOOTING
Se ve r a l High F ir in g Lin e s
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedCheck Fuel System
EGR Valve Stuck OpenClean/Replace EGR
Valve
High Plug Wire ResistanceReplace Plug Wire
Cracked/Broken PlugsReplace Plugs
Intake Vacuum LeakRepair Leak
Several Low Firing Lines
Fuel Mixture UnbalancedAdjust Fuel Mixture
Plug Wires ArcingReplace Plug Wires
Cracked Coil ArcingReplace Coil
Uneven CompressionCheck/Repair Engine
Faulty Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Cylinders Not Firing
Cracked Distributor CapReplace Cap
Shorted Plug WiresReplace Plug Wires
Mechanical Engine FaultCheck/Repair Engine
Spark Plugs FouledReplace Plugs
Carbon Track in Distributor CapReplace Cap
Hard Starting
Defective Ignition Coil(s)Replace Coil(s)
Fouled Spark PlugsReplace Plugs
Incorrect TimingReset Ignition Timing
NOTE:T his article is generic in nature and all inform ation does not apply to all vehicles. For vehicle specific
inform ation, see the appropriate articles in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Cold Start Valve InoperativeTest Cold Start Valve
Poor Vacuum/Electrical ConnectionRepair Connections
Contaminated FuelTest Fuel for Water/Alcohol
Bad Fuel Pump Relay/CircuitTest Relay/Wiring
Battery Voltage LowCharge/Test Battery
Low Fuel PressureTest Press. Regulator/Pump
No Distributor Reference PulseRepair Ignition System
Coolant Temp. Sensor DefectiveTest Temp. Sensor/Circuit
No Power To InjectorsCheck Injector Fuse/Relay
Hard Starting
Defective Idle Air Control (IAC)Test IAC and Circuit
EGR Valve OpenTest EGR Valve/Control
Circuit
Restricted Fuel LinesInspect/Replace Fuel Lines
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Engine Stalls During Parking ManeuverCheck P.S. Press. Switch
Rough Idle
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest MAP Sensor/Circuit
Intermittent Fuel Injector OperationCheck Harness Connectors
Erratic Vehicle Speed Sensor InputsHarness Too Close to Plug
Wires
Poor O2 Sensor SignalTest O2 Sensor/Circuit
Faulty PCV SystemCheck PCV Valve and
Hoses
Poor Acceleration
Weak Fuel PumpReplace Fuel Pump
Dirty Fuel InjectorsClean/Replace Injectors
Excessive Intake Valve DepositsClean Intake System
Poor High Speed Operation
Low Fuel Pump VolumeFaulty Fuel Pump/Filter
Poor MAP Sensor SignalTest Speed Sensor/Circuit
Acceleration Ping/Knock
Faulty EGR SystemCheck EGR Valve and
Hoses
Poor Knock Sensor SignalTest Knock Sensor/Circuit
Poor Baro Sensor SignalTest Baro Sensor/Circuit
Improper Ignition TimingAdjust Timing
Engine OverheatingCheck Cooling System
Poor Quality FuelUse Different Fuel
Carbon Build-UpDecarbon Engine
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carburetor. As the exhaust gas quickly warms the intake mixture, distribution is improved. This results in better cold engine driveability,
shorter choke periods and lower emissions.
Ensure EFE valve in exhaust manifold is not frozen or rusted in a fixed position. On vacuum-actuated EFE system, check EFE thermal vacuu
m
valve and check valve(s). Also check for proper vacuum hose routing. See Fig. 19
.

Fig. 19: Typical Vacuum
-Actuated EFE System
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
EMISSION MAINTENANCE REMINDER LIGHT (EMR)
If equipped, the EMR light (some models may use a reminder flag) reminds vehicle operator that an emission system maintenance is required.
This indicator is activated after a predetermined time/mileage.
When performing a smog check inspection, ensure EMR indicator is not activated. On models using an EMR light, light should glow when
ignition switch is turned to ON position and should turn off when engine is running.
If an EMR flag is present or an EMR light stays on with engine running, fail vehicle and service or replace applicable emission-related
components. To reset an EMR indicator, refer to appropriate MAINTENANCE REMINDER LIGHTS article in GENERAL INFORMATION.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL)
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is used to alert vehicle operator that the computerized engine control system has detected a
malfunction (when it stays on all the time with engine running). On some models, the MIL may also be used to display trouble codes.
As a bulb and system check, malfunction indicator light will glow when ignition switch is turned to ON position and engine is not running.
When engine is started, light should go out.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00130226
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Back To Article
GENERAL INFORMATION
Engine Perform ance Safety Precautions
Always refer to Emission Decal in engine compartment before servicing vehicle. If manual and decal differ, always use decal
specifications.
Do not allow or create a condition of misfire in more than one cylinder for an extended period of time. Damage to converter may occur
due to loading converter with unburned air/fuel mixture.
Always turn ignition off and disconnect negative battery cable BEFORE disconnecting or connecting computer or other electrical
components.
DO NOT drop or shock electrical components such as computer, airflow meter, etc.
DO NOT use fuel system cleaning compounds that are not recommended by the manufacturer. Damage to gaskets, diaphragm materials
and catalytic converter may result.
Before performing a compression test or cranking engine using a remote starter switch, disconnect coil wire from distributor and secure it
to a good engine ground, or disable ignition.
Before disconnecting any fuel system component, ensure fuel system pressure is released.
Use a shop towel to absorb any spilled fuel to prevent fire.
DO NOT create sparks or have an open flame near battery.
If any fuel system components such as hoses or clamps are replaced, ensure they are replaced with components designed for fuel system
use.
Always reassemble throttle body components with new gaskets, "O" rings and seals.
If equipped with an inertia switch, DO NOT reset switch until fuel system has been inspected for leaks.
We a r sa fe t y go ggl e s wh e n d r il l in g o r gr in d in g.
Wear proper clothing which protects against chemicals and other hazards.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00002342
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Parasitic Load Explanation & T est Procedures
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
GENERAL INFORMATION
The term Parasitic Load refers to electrical devices that continue to use or draw current after the ignition switch is turned to OFF position. This
small amount of continuous battery draw is expressed in milliamps (mA). On Chrysler vehicles, a typical Parasitic Load should be no more
than 30 milliamps (0.030 amps). On Ford Motor Co. and General Motors vehicles produced after 1980, a typical Parasitic Load should be no
more than 50 milliamps (0.050 amps).
Vehicles produced since 1980 have memory devices that draw current with ignition off for as long as 20 minutes before shutting down the
Parasitic Drain. When Parasitic Load exceeds normal specifications, the vehicle may exhibit dead battery and no-start condition.
Follow test procedure for checking Parasitic Loads to completion. A brief overview of a suggested test procedure is included along with some
typical Parasitic Load specifications. Refer to GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE chart.
TESTING FOR PARASITIC LOAD
The battery circuit must be opened to connect test switch (shunt) and ammeter into the circuit. When a battery cable is removed, timer circuits
within the vehicle computer are interrupted and immediately begin to discharge. If in doubt about the condition of the ammeter fuse, test it
with an ohmmeter prior to beginning test. An open fuse will show the same reading (00.00) as no parasitic drain. Begin test sequence with the
meter installed and on the 10-amp scale. Select lower scale to read parasitic draw.
CHRYSLER IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) TEST
To test for excessive IOD, verify that all electrical accessories are OFF. Turn off all lights, remove ignition key, and close all doors and decklid.
If the vehicle is equipped with electronic accessories (illuminated entry, automatic load leveler, body computer, or high line radio), allow the
system to automatically shut off (time out), up to 3 minutes.
1. Raise the hood and disconnect both battery cables, negative first.
2. Reconnect the negative cable and connect a typical 12-volt test light (low wattage bulb) between the positive cable clamp and the
positive battery post. Remove the engine compartment lamp bulb. If the test light does not light, proceed to step 3
. If the test light does
light, proceed to step, 4
. The test light will indicate IOD greater than 3 amps. After higher amperage IOD has been corrected, proceed to
step 3
.
3. ith 12-volt test light still connected (not lit), connect an ammeter (milliampere scale) between the positive cable clamp and the positive
battery post, disconnect test light, refer to instructions provided with ammeter being used. A reading of 30 milliamperes or less indicates
normal electrical draw. If ammeter reads more than 30 milliamperes, excessive IOD must be corrected.
4. Locate the fuse panel and remove fuses or circuit breakers one at a time, and observe ammeter after each fuse or circuit breaker is
removed. If test light goes out and the reading drops below 30 milliamperes when a certain fuse or circuit breaker is removed, that circuit
may have a defect.
5. If IOD is detected after all fuses and circuit breakers have been removed, disconnect the 60-way connector at the Single Module Engine
Control (SMEC), located outboard of the battery.
6. If excessive IOD is detected after all fused circuits and SMEC have been verified, disconnect the B+ terminal from the alternat o r. If
reading drops below 30 milliamperes, reinstall all fuses and circuit breakers, reconnect B+ terminal at alternator, reconnect battery, and
perform alternator diagnostics.
7. Install engine compartment lamp bulb.
TEST PROCEDURE USING TEST SWITCH
1. Turn ignition off. Remove negative battery terminal cable. Install Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch male end to negative battery
cable. Turn test switch knob to OFF position (current through meter). Install negative battery cable to the female end of test switch. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
CAUT ION: Always turn ignition off when connecting or disconnecting battery cables, battery chargers or jum per
cables. DO NOT turn test switch to OFF position (which causes current to run through am m eter or
vehicle electrical system ).
NOTE:Mem ory functions of various accessories m ust be reset after the battery is reconnected.
CAUT ION: IOD greater than 3 am ps m ay dam age m illam pm eter.
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2. Turn test switch knob to ON position (current through switch). Road test vehicle with vehicle accessories on (radio, air conditioner, etc).
After road test, turn ignition switch to LOCKED position and remove key. Connect ammeter terminals to test switch terminals. See Fig.
1. Select 10-amp scale.
3. Turn off all electrical accessories. Turn off interior lights, underhood lamp, trunk light, illuminated entry, etc. To avoid damaging
ammeter or obtaining a false meter reading, all accessories must be off before turning test switch knob to OFF position.
4. Turn test switch knob to OFF position to allow current to flow through ammeter. If meter reads wrong polarity, turn test switch to ON
position and reverse leads. Turn test switch to OFF position. Observe current reading. If reading is less than 2 amps, turn test switch to
ON position to keep electrical circuits powered-up.
5. Select low amp scale. Switch lead to the correct meter position. Turn test switch to OFF position and compare results to normal current
draw. See GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE (MILLIAMPS)
. If current draw is unusually high for the vehicle's
overall electrical system, remove system fuses one at a time until current draw returns to normal.
6. Turn test switch to ON position each time door is opened or fuse is removed. Turn switch to OFF position to read current draw va l u e
through meter. When the cause of excessive current drain has been located and repaired, remove test switch and reconnect negative
battery cable to the negative battery terminal.
INTERMITTENT PARASITIC LOAD PROBLEMS
Intermittent parasitic load can occur because of a memory device that does not power down with ignition off. With an intermittent parasitic
load, battery draw can be greater than 1.0 amp.
To find an intermittent problem requires that an ammeter and Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch be connected and left in the circuit. See
Fig. 1
. Road test vehicle. After road test, turn ignition off and remove key.
Monitor the milliamps scale for 15-20 minutes after ignition is turned off. This allows monitoring memory devices to determine if they time out
and stop drawing memory current. The test switch is needed to protect ammeter when the vehicle is started.

Fig. 1: Connecting Kent
-Moore Disconnect Tool (J-38758)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD
ComponentNormal DrawMaximum DrawTime-Out (Minutes)
Anti-Theft System0.41.0.....
Auto Door Lock1.01.0.....
Body Control Module3.612.420
Central Processing System1.62.720
Electronic Control Module5.610.0.....
Electronic Level Control2.03.320
Heated Windshield Module0.30.4.....
HVAC Power Module1.01.0.....
Illuminated Entry1.01.01
Light Control Module0.51.0.....
Oil Level Module0.10.1.....
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