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GENERAL INFORMATION
Parasitic Load Explanation & T est Procedures
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
GENERAL INFORMATION
The term Parasitic Load refers to electrical devices that continue to use or draw current after the ignition switch is turned to OFF position. This
small amount of continuous battery draw is expressed in milliamps (mA). On Chrysler vehicles, a typical Parasitic Load should be no more
than 30 milliamps (0.030 amps). On Ford Motor Co. and General Motors vehicles produced after 1980, a typical Parasitic Load should be no
more than 50 milliamps (0.050 amps).
Vehicles produced since 1980 have memory devices that draw current with ignition off for as long as 20 minutes before shutting down the
Parasitic Drain. When Parasitic Load exceeds normal specifications, the vehicle may exhibit dead battery and no-start condition.
Follow test procedure for checking Parasitic Loads to completion. A brief overview of a suggested test procedure is included along with some
typical Parasitic Load specifications. Refer to GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE chart.
TESTING FOR PARASITIC LOAD
The battery circuit must be opened to connect test switch (shunt) and ammeter into the circuit. When a battery cable is removed, timer circuits
within the vehicle computer are interrupted and immediately begin to discharge. If in doubt about the condition of the ammeter fuse, test it
with an ohmmeter prior to beginning test. An open fuse will show the same reading (00.00) as no parasitic drain. Begin test sequence with the
meter installed and on the 10-amp scale. Select lower scale to read parasitic draw.
CHRYSLER IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) TEST
To test for excessive IOD, verify that all electrical accessories are OFF. Turn off all lights, remove ignition key, and close all doors and decklid.
If the vehicle is equipped with electronic accessories (illuminated entry, automatic load leveler, body computer, or high line radio), allow the
system to automatically shut off (time out), up to 3 minutes.
1. Raise the hood and disconnect both battery cables, negative first.
2. Reconnect the negative cable and connect a typical 12-volt test light (low wattage bulb) between the positive cable clamp and the
positive battery post. Remove the engine compartment lamp bulb. If the test light does not light, proceed to step 3
. If the test light does
light, proceed to step, 4
. The test light will indicate IOD greater than 3 amps. After higher amperage IOD has been corrected, proceed to
step 3
.
3. ith 12-volt test light still connected (not lit), connect an ammeter (milliampere scale) between the positive cable clamp and the positive
battery post, disconnect test light, refer to instructions provided with ammeter being used. A reading of 30 milliamperes or less indicates
normal electrical draw. If ammeter reads more than 30 milliamperes, excessive IOD must be corrected.
4. Locate the fuse panel and remove fuses or circuit breakers one at a time, and observe ammeter after each fuse or circuit breaker is
removed. If test light goes out and the reading drops below 30 milliamperes when a certain fuse or circuit breaker is removed, that circuit
may have a defect.
5. If IOD is detected after all fuses and circuit breakers have been removed, disconnect the 60-way connector at the Single Module Engine
Control (SMEC), located outboard of the battery.
6. If excessive IOD is detected after all fused circuits and SMEC have been verified, disconnect the B+ terminal from the alternat o r. If
reading drops below 30 milliamperes, reinstall all fuses and circuit breakers, reconnect B+ terminal at alternator, reconnect battery, and
perform alternator diagnostics.
7. Install engine compartment lamp bulb.
TEST PROCEDURE USING TEST SWITCH
1. Turn ignition off. Remove negative battery terminal cable. Install Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch male end to negative battery
cable. Turn test switch knob to OFF position (current through meter). Install negative battery cable to the female end of test switch. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
CAUT ION: Always turn ignition off when connecting or disconnecting battery cables, battery chargers or jum per
cables. DO NOT turn test switch to OFF position (which causes current to run through am m eter or
vehicle electrical system ).
NOTE:Mem ory functions of various accessories m ust be reset after the battery is reconnected.
CAUT ION: IOD greater than 3 am ps m ay dam age m illam pm eter.
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2. Turn test switch knob to ON position (current through switch). Road test vehicle with vehicle accessories on (radio, air conditioner, etc).
After road test, turn ignition switch to LOCKED position and remove key. Connect ammeter terminals to test switch terminals. See Fig.
1. Select 10-amp scale.
3. Turn off all electrical accessories. Turn off interior lights, underhood lamp, trunk light, illuminated entry, etc. To avoid damaging
ammeter or obtaining a false meter reading, all accessories must be off before turning test switch knob to OFF position.
4. Turn test switch knob to OFF position to allow current to flow through ammeter. If meter reads wrong polarity, turn test switch to ON
position and reverse leads. Turn test switch to OFF position. Observe current reading. If reading is less than 2 amps, turn test switch to
ON position to keep electrical circuits powered-up.
5. Select low amp scale. Switch lead to the correct meter position. Turn test switch to OFF position and compare results to normal current
draw. See GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD TABLE (MILLIAMPS)
. If current draw is unusually high for the vehicle's
overall electrical system, remove system fuses one at a time until current draw returns to normal.
6. Turn test switch to ON position each time door is opened or fuse is removed. Turn switch to OFF position to read current draw va l u e
through meter. When the cause of excessive current drain has been located and repaired, remove test switch and reconnect negative
battery cable to the negative battery terminal.
INTERMITTENT PARASITIC LOAD PROBLEMS
Intermittent parasitic load can occur because of a memory device that does not power down with ignition off. With an intermittent parasitic
load, battery draw can be greater than 1.0 amp.
To find an intermittent problem requires that an ammeter and Disconnect Tool (J-38758) test switch be connected and left in the circuit. See
Fig. 1
. Road test vehicle. After road test, turn ignition off and remove key.
Monitor the milliamps scale for 15-20 minutes after ignition is turned off. This allows monitoring memory devices to determine if they time out
and stop drawing memory current. The test switch is needed to protect ammeter when the vehicle is started.
Fig. 1: Connecting Kent
-Moore Disconnect Tool (J-38758)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
GENERAL MOTORS PARASITIC LOAD
ComponentNormal DrawMaximum DrawTime-Out (Minutes)
Anti-Theft System0.41.0.....
Auto Door Lock1.01.0.....
Body Control Module3.612.420
Central Processing System1.62.720
Electronic Control Module5.610.0.....
Electronic Level Control2.03.320
Heated Windshield Module0.30.4.....
HVAC Power Module1.01.0.....
Illuminated Entry1.01.01
Light Control Module0.51.0.....
Oil Level Module0.10.1.....
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Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the available
voltage to an injector in order to limit the current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a noid light designed for full voltage.
Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick burst of
voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration. If a noid light was designed
for the other type of driver (voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow
for the entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive n o id l igh t is
used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit with an actual
problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a partial driver failure
or a minor voltage drop in the injector circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO
OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the starter motor will not
operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they light normally and are
fully bright. This is the same idea as noid light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the headlights ("noid light"), but not
the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding the types of
injector circuits that your noid lights are designed for. There are three. They are:
Systems with a voltage controlled injector driver. Another way to say it: The noid light is designed for a circuit with a "high" resistance
injector (generally 12 ohms or above).
Systems with a current controlled injector driver. Another way to say it: The noid light is designed for a circuit with a low resistance
injector (generally less than 12 ohms) without an external injector resistor.
Systems with a voltage controlled injector driver and an external injector resistor. Another way of saying it: The noid light is designed
for a circuit with a low resistance injector (generally less than 12 ohms) and an external injector resistor.
If you are not sure which type of circuit your noid light is designed for, plug it into a known good car and check out the results. If it flashes
normally during cranking, determine the circuit type by finding out injector resistance and if an external injector resistor is used. You now
know enough to identify the type of injector circuit. Label the noid light appropriately.
Next time you need to use a noid light for diagnosis, determine what type of injector circuit you are dealing with and select the appropriate
noid light.
Of course, if you suspect a no-pulse condition you could plug in any one whose connector fit without fear of misdiagnosis. This is because it is
unimportant if the flashing light is dim or bright. It is only important that it flashes.
In any cases of doubt regarding the use of a noid light, a lab scope will overcome all inherent weaknesses.
OVERVIEW OF DVOM
A DVOM is typically used to check injector resistance and available voltage at the injector. Some techs also use it check injector on-time
either with a built-in feature or by using the dwell/duty function.
There are situations where the DVOM performs these checks dependably, and other situations where it can deceive you. It is important to be
aware of these strengths and weaknesses. We will cover the topics above in the following text.
Checking Injector Resistance
If a short in an injector coil winding is constant, an ohmmeter will accurately identify the lower resistance. The same is true with an open
winding. Unfortunately, an intermittent short is an exception. A faulty injector with an intermittent short will show "good" if the ohmmeter
cannot force the short to occur during testing.
Alcohol in fuel typically causes an intermittent short, happening only when the injector coil is hot and loaded by a current high e n o u gh t o
jump the air gap between two bare windings or to break down any oxides that may have formed between them.
When you measure resistance with an ohmmeter, you are only applying a small current of a few milliamps. This is nowhere near enough to
load the coil sufficiently to detect most problems. As a result, most resistance checks identify intermittently shorted injectors as being normal.
There are two methods to get around this limitation. The first is to purchase an tool that checks injector coil windings under full load. The
Kent-Moore J-39021 is such a tool, though there are others. The Kent-Moore costs around $240 at the time of this writing and works on many
different manufacturer's systems.
The second method is to use a lab scope. Remember, a lab scope allows you to see the regular operation of a circuit in real time. If an injector
is having an short or intermittent short, the lab scope will show it.
Checking Available Voltage At the Injector
Verifying a fuel injector has the proper voltage to operate correctly is good diagnostic technique. Finding an open circuit on the feed circuit
like a broken wire or connector is an accurate check with a DVOM. Unfortunately, finding an intermittent or excessive resistance problem with
a DVOM is unreliable.
Let's explore this drawback. Remember that a voltage drop due to excessive resistance will only occur when a circuit is operating? Since the
injector circuit is only operating for a few milliseconds at a time, a DVOM will only see a potential fault for a few milliseconds. The remaining
90+% of the time the unloaded injector circuit will show normal battery voltage. NOTE:Som e noid lights can m eet both the second and third categories sim ultaneously.
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Since DVOMs update their display roughly two to five times a second, all measurements in between are averaged. Because a potential voltage
drop is visible for such a small amount of time, it ge t s "a ve r a ge d o u t ", c a u sin g yo u t o miss it .
Only a DVOM that has a "min-max" function that checks EVERY MILLISECOND will catch this fault consistently (if used in that mode). The
Fluke 87 among others has this capability.
A "min-max" DVOM with a lower frequency of checking (100 millisecond) can miss the fault because it will probably check when the injector
is not on. This is especially true with current controlled driver circuits. The Fluke 88, among others fall into this category.
Outside of using a Fluke 87 (or equivalent) in the 1 mS "min-max" mode, the only way to catch a voltage drop fault is with a lab scope. You
will be able to see a voltage drop as it happens.
One final note. It is important to be aware that an injector circuit with a solenoid resistor will always show a voltage drop when the circuit is
energized. This is somewhat obvious and normal; it is a designed-in voltage drop. What can be unexpected is what we already covered--a
voltage drop disappears when the circuit is unloaded. The unloaded injector circuit will show normal battery voltage at the injector.
Remember this and do not get confused.
Checking Injector On-Time With Built-In Function
Several DVOMs have a feature that allows them to measure injector on-time (mS pulse width). While they are accurate and fast to hookup,
they have three limitations you should be aware of:
They only work on voltage controlled injector drivers (e.g "Saturated Switch"), NOT on current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak &
Hold").
A few unusual conditions can cause inaccurate readings.
Varying engine speeds can result in inaccurate readings.
Regarding the first limitation, DVOMs need a well-defined injector pulse in order to determine when the injector turns ON and OFF. Voltage
controlled drivers provide this because of their simple switch-like operation. They completely close the circuit for the entire duration of the
pulse. This is easy for the DVOM to interpret.
The other type of driver, the current controlled type, start off well by completely closing the circuit (until the injector pintle opens), but then
they throttle back the voltage/current for the duration of the pulse. The DVOM understands the beginning of the pulse but it cannot figure out
the throttling action. In other words, it cannot distinguish the throttling from an open circuit (de-energized) condition.
Yet current controlled injectors will still yield a millisecond on-time reading on these DVOMs. You will find it is also always the same,
regardless of the operating conditions. This is because it is only measuring the initial completely-closed circuit on-time, which always takes the
same amount of time (to lift the injector pintle off its seat). So even though you get a reading, it is useless.
The second limitation is that a few erratic conditions can cause inaccurate readings. This is because of a DVOM's slow display rate; roughly
two to five times a second. As we covered earlier, measurements in between display updates get averaged. So conditions like skipped injector
pulses or intermittent long/short injector pulses tend to get "averaged out", which will cause you to miss important details.
The last limitation is that varying engine speeds can result in inaccurate readings. This is caused by the quickly shifting injector on-time as the
engine load varies, or the RPM moves from a state of acceleration to stabilization, or similar situations. It too is caused by the averaging of all
measurements in between DVOM display periods. You can avoid this by checking on-time when there are no RPM or load changes.
A lab scope allows you to overcome each one of these limitations.
Checking Injector On-Time With Dwell Or Duty
If no tool is available to directly measure injector millisecond on-time measurement, some techs use a simple DVOM dwell or duty cycle
functions as a replacement.
While this is an approach of last resort, it does provide benefits. We will discuss the strengths and weaknesses in a moment, but first we will
look at how a duty cycle meter and dwell meter work.
How A Duty Cycle Meter and Dwell Meter Work
All readings are obtained by comparing how long something has been OFF to how long it has been ON in a fixed time period. A dwell meter
and duty cycle meter actually come up with the same answers using different scales. You can convert freely between them. See
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DWELL & DUTY CYCLE READINGS TABLE
.
The DVOM display updates roughly one time a second, although some DVOMs can be a little faster or slower. All measurements during this
update period are tallied inside the DVOM as ON time or OFF time, and then the total ratio is displayed as either a percentage (duty cycle) or
degrees (dwell meter).
For example, let's say a DVOM had an update rate of exactly 1 second (1000 milliseconds). Let's also say that it has been measuring/tallying
an injector circuit that had been ON a total of 250 mS out of the 1000 mS. That is a ratio of one-quarter, which would be displayed as 25%
duty cycle or 15° dwell (six-cylinder scale). Note that most duty cycle meters can reverse the readings by selecting the positive o r n e ga t ive
slope to trigger on. If this reading were reversed, a duty cycle meter would display 75%.
Strengths of Dwell/Duty Meter
The obvious strength of a dwell/duty meter is that you can compare injector on-time against a known-good reading. This is the only practical
way to use a dwell/duty meter, but requires you to have known-good values to compare against.
Another strength is that you can roughly convert injector mS on-time into dwell reading with some computations.
A final strength is that because the meter averages everything together it does not miss anything (though this is also a severe weakness that we
will look at later). If an injector has a fault where it occasionally skips a pulse, the meter registers it and the reading changes accordingly.
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The voltage controlled driver inside the computer operates much like a simple switch because it does not need to worry about limiting current
flow. Recall, this driver typically requires injector circuits with a total leg resistance of 12 or more ohms.
The driver is either ON, closing/completing the circuit (eliminating the voltage-drop), or OFF, opening the circuit (causing a total voltage
drop).
Some manufacturers call it a "saturated switch" driver. This is because when switched ON, the driver allows the magnetic field in the injector
to build to saturation. This is the same "saturation" property that you are familiar with for an ignition coil.
There are two ways "high" resistance can be built into an injector circuit to limit current flow. One method uses an external solenoid resistor
and a low resistance injector, while the other uses a high resistance injector without the solenoid resistor. See the left side of Fig. Fig. 1
.
In terms of injection opening time, the external resistor voltage controlled circuit is somewhat faster than the voltage controlled high resistance
injector circuit. The trend, however, seems to be moving toward use of this latter type of circuit due to its lower cost and reliability. The ECU
can compensate for slower opening times by increasing injector pulse width accordingly.
Fig. 1: Injector Driver Types
- Current and Voltage
CURRENT CONTROLLED CIRCUIT ("PEAK & HOLD")
The current controlled driver inside the computer is more complex than a voltage controlled driver because as the name implies, it has to limit
current flow in addition to its ON-OFF switching function. Recall, this driver typically requires injector circuits with a total leg resistance of
less than 12 ohms.
Once the driver is turned ON, it will not limit current flow until enough time has passed for the injector pintle to open. This period is preset by
the particular manufacturer/system based on the amount of current flow needed to open their injector. This is typically between two and six
amps. Some manufacturers refer to this as the "peak" time, referring to the fact that current flow is allowed to "peak" (to open the injector).
Once the injector pintle is open, the amp flow is considerably reduced for the rest of the pulse duration to protect the injector from
overheating. This is okay because very little amperage is needed to hold the injector open, typically in the area of one amp or less. Some
manufacturers refer to this as the "hold" time, meaning that just enough current is allowed through the circuit to "hold" the already-open
injector open.
There are a couple methods of reducing the current. The most common trims back the available voltage for the circuit, similar to turning down
a light at home with a dimmer.
The other method involves repeatedly cycling the circuit ON-OFF. It does this so fast that the magnetic field never collapses and the pintle
stays open, but the current is still significantly reduced. See the right side of Fig. Fig. 1
for an illustration.
The advantage to the current controlled driver circuit is the short time period from when the driver transistor goes ON to when the injector
actually opens. This is a function of the speed with which current flow reaches its peak due to the low circuit resistance. Also, the injector
closes faster when the driver turns OFF because of the lower holding current.
THE TWO WAYS INJECTOR CIRCUITS ARE WIRED
NOTE:Never apply battery voltage directly across a low resistance injector. T his will cause injector dam age
from solenoid coil overheating.
NOTE:Never apply battery voltage directly across a low resistance injector. T his will cause injector dam age
from solenoid coil overheating.
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Like other circuits, injector circuits can be wired in one of two fundamental directions. The first method is to steadily power the injectors and
have the computer driver switch the ground side of the circuit. Conversely, the injectors can be steadily grounded while the driver switches the
power side of the circuit.
There is no performance benefit to either method. Voltage controlled and current controlled drivers have been successfully implemented both
ways.
However, 95% percent of the systems are wired so the driver controls the ground side of the circuit. Only a handful of systems use the drivers
on the power side of the circuit. Some examples of the latter are the 1970's Cadillac EFI system, early Jeep 4.0 EFI (Renix system), and
Chrysler 1984-87 TBI.
INTERPRETING INJECTOR WAVEFORMS
INTERPRETING A VOLTAGE CONTROLLED PATTERN
See Fig. 2 for pattern that the following text describes.
Point "A" is where system voltage is supplied to the injector. A good hot run voltage is usually 13.5 or more volts. This point, commonly
known as open circuit voltage, is critical because the injector will not get sufficient current saturation if there is a voltage shortfall. To obtain a
good look at this precise point, you will need to shift your Lab Scope to five volts per division.
You will find that some systems have slight voltage fluctuations here. This can occur if the injector feed wire is also used to power up other
cycling components, like the ignition coil(s). Slight voltage fluctuations are normal and are no reason for concern. Major voltage fluctuations
are a different story, however. Major voltage shifts on the injector feed line will create injector performance problems. Look for excessive
resistance problems in the feed circuit if you see big shifts and repair as necessary.
Note that circuits with external injector resistors will not be any different because the resistor does not affect open circuit voltage.
Point "B" is where the driver completes the circuit to ground. This point of the waveform should be a clean square point straight down with no
rounded edges. It is during this period that current saturation of the injector windings is taking place and the driver is heavily stressed. Weak
drivers will distort this vertical line.
Point "C" represents the voltage drop across the injector windings. Point "C" should come very close to the ground reference point, but not
quite touch. This is because the driver has a small amount of inherent resistance. Any significant offset from ground is an indication of a
resistance problem on the ground circuit that needs repaired. You might miss this fault if you do not use the negative battery post for your Lab
Scope hook-up, so it is HIGHLY recommended that you use the battery as your hook-up.
The points between "B" and "D" represent the time in milliseconds that the injector is being energized or held open. This line at Po int "C"
should remain flat. Any distortion or upward bend indicates a ground problem, short problem, or a weak driver. Alert readers will catch that
this is exactly opposite of the current controlled type drivers (explained in the next section), because they bend upwards at this point.
How come the difference? Because of the total circuit resistance. Voltage controlled driver circuits have a high resistance of 12+ ohms that
slows the building of the magnetic field in the injector. Hence, no counter voltage is built up and the line remains flat.
On the other hand, the current controlled driver circuit has low resistance which allows for a rapid magnetic field build-up. This causes a
slight inductive rise (created by the effects of counter voltage) and hence, the upward bend. You should not see that here with voltage
controlled circuits.
Point "D" represents the electrical condition of the injector windings. The height of this voltage spike (inductive kick) is proportional to the
number of windings and the current flow through them. The more current flow and greater number of windings, the more potential fo r a
greater inductive kick. The opposite is also true. The less current flow or fewer windings means less inductive kick. Typically you should see a
min imu m 3 5 vo l t s at t h e t o p o f Po in t "D".
If you do see approximately 35 volts, it is because a zener diode is used with the driver to clamp the voltage. Make sure the beginning top of
the spike is squared off, indicating the zener dumped the remainder of the spike. If it is not squared, that indicates the spike is not strong
enough to make the zener fully dump, meaning the injector has a weak winding.
If a zener diode is not used in the computer, the spike from a good injector will be 60 or more volts.
Point "E" brings us to a very interesting section. As you can see, the voltage dissipates back to supply value after the peak of the inductive kick.
Notice the slight hump? This is actually the mechanical injector pintle closing. Recall that moving an iron core through a magnetic field will
create a voltage surge. The pintle is the iron core here.
This pintle hump at Point "E" should occur near the end of the downward slope, and not afterwards. If it does occur after the slope has ended
and the voltage has stabilized, it is because the pintle is slightly sticking because of a faulty injector NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:Voltage controlled drivers are also known as "Saturated Switch" drivers. T hey typically require injector
circuits with a total leg resistance of 12 ohm s or m ore.
NOTE:T his exam ple is based on a constant power/switched ground circuit.
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If you see more than one hump it is because of a distorted pintle or seat. This faulty condition is known as "pintle float".
It is important to realize that it takes a good digital storage oscilloscope or analog lab scope to see this pintle hump clearly. Unfortunately, it
cannot always be seen.
Fig. 2: Identifying Voltage Controlled Type Injector Pattern
INTERPRETING A CURRENT CONTROLLED PATTERN
See Fig. 3 for pattern that the following text describes.
Point "A" is where system voltage is supplied to the injector. A good hot run voltage is usually 13.5 or more volts. This point, commonly
known as open circuit voltage, is critical because the injector will not get sufficient current saturation if there is a voltage shortfall. To obtain a
good look at this precise point, you will need to shift your Lab Scope to five volts per division.
You will find that some systems have slight voltage fluctuations here. This could occur if the injector feed wire is also used to power up other
cycling components, like the ignition coil(s). Slight voltage fluctuations are normal and are no reason for concern. Major voltage fluctuations
are a different story, however. Major voltage shifts on the injector feed line will create injector performance problems. Look for excessive
resistance problems in the feed circuit if you see big shifts and repair as necessary.
Point "B" is where the driver completes the circuit to ground. This point of the waveform should be a clean square point straight down with no
rounded edges. It is during this period that current saturation of the injector windings is taking place and the driver is heavily stressed. Weak
drivers will distort this vertical line.
Point "C" represents the voltage drop across the injector windings. Point "C" should come very close to the ground reference point, but not
quite touch. This is because the driver has a small amount of inherent resistance. Any significant offset from ground is an indication of a
resistance problem on the ground circuit that needs repaired. You might miss this fault if you do not use the negative battery post for your Lab
Scope hook-up, so it is HIGHLY recommended that you use the battery as your hook-up.
Right after Point "C", something interesting happens. Notice the trace starts a normal upward bend. This slight inductive rise is created by the
effects of counter voltage and is normal. This is because the low circuit resistance allowed a fast build-up of the magnetic field, which in turn
created the counter voltage.
Point "D" is the start of the current limiting, also known as the "Hold" time. Before this point, the driver had allowed the curren t t o free-fl o w
("Peak") just to get the injector pintle open. By the time point "D" occurs, the injector pintle has already opened and the computer has just
significantly throttled the current back. It does this by only allowing a few volts through to maintain the minimum current required to keep the
pintle open.
The height of the voltage spike seen at the top of Point "D" represents the electrical condition of the injector windings. The height of this
voltage spike (inductive kick) is proportional to the number of windings and the current flow through them. The more current flow and greater
NOTE:Current controlled drivers are also known as "Peak and Hold" drivers. T hey typically require injector
circuits with a total leg resistance with less than 12 ohm .
NOTE:T his exam ple is based on a constant power/switched ground circuit.
Page 7 of 19 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL INFORMATION Waveforms - Injector Pattern Tutorial
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Fig. 3: View of 10P13, 10P15 & 10P15F 10
-Cyl Compressor
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
NIPPONDENSO 10P15, 10P15F CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Using Spanner (T81P-19623-MH), hold clutch plate and remove crankshaft nut. Using Clutch Plate Remover (T80L-19703-B), pull
clutch plate from compressor. Remove clutch plate shims.
2. Remove snap ring and clutch pulley assembly. If pulley assembly cannot be removed by hand, use Shaft Protector (T80L-19703-G) and
3-jaw puller. Remove snap ring. Disconnect electrical wiring and remove clutch coil.
Installation
1. Install clutch coil over locating pin and install snap ring. Connect electrical wiring.
2. Install pulley assembly, using Pulley Installer (T80L-19703-J) and hammer (if necessary). Install snap ring with beveled side outward.
Install clutch plate shims.
3. Ensure clutch plate aligns with crankshaft key. Using Clutch Plate Installer (T80L-19703-F), install clutch plate. Install crankshaft nut.
Using spanner, tighten nut to 10-14 ft. lbs. (13-20 N.m). DO NOT tighten nut with air tools.
4. Using feeler gauge, check clearance between clutch plate and pulley. Rotate compressor clutch and check clearance in more than one
place. Proper clearance is .021-.036" (.53-.91 mm). If clearance is not correct, add or remove shims.
NIPPONDENSO 10P15A CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Hold pulley assembly with Strap Wrench (D85L-6000-A). Apply battery voltage to clutch coil assembly and remove crankshaft nut.
Screw Clutch Plate Remover (T88C-19703-BH) into clutch plate and remove clutch plate from compressor. Remove clutch plate shims.
2. Remove snap ring and clutch pulley assembly. If pulley cannot easily be removed, use plastic hammer and tap pulley from shaft.
Remove snap ring. Disconnect electrical wiring and remove clutch coil.
Installation
1. Install clutch coil over locating pin and install snap ring. Connect electrical wiring. Install pulley.
2. Ensure pulley bearing is aligned with compressor head. Gently tap pulley on shaft with plastic hammer (if necessary). Install pulley
retaining snap ring.
3. Install shims and clutch plate. Install crankshaft nut and tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs. (14-16 N.m). DO NOT tighten nut with air tools. Using
feeler gauge, measure clearance between clutch plate and pulley in several different areas. Proper clearance is .016-.028" (.41-.71 mm).
If clearance is not correct, add or remove shims.
NIPPONDENSO 10P15, 10P15F SHAFT SEAL
Removal
1. Discharge system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment and remove compressor. Drain oil from compressor and
record amount for reassembly.
2. Mount compressor in vise claMFIng on mounting ears. Using Spanner (T81P-19623-MH), hold clutch plate and remove crankshaft nut.
Pull clutch plate from compressor using Clutch Plate Remover (T80L-19703-B). Remove clutch plate shims.
3. Clean compressor front hub area. Remove felt packing and dust seal retainer from inside compressor nose. See Fig. 3
. Using Shaft Key
Remover (T81P-19623-NH), remove key from shaft.
4. Remove seal seat retaining snap ring. Clean inner bore of compressor nose. Using Shaft Seat Remover/Installer (T87P-19623-B), remove
seal seat.
NOTE:Rem ove com pressor when clearance is not adequate for clutch assem bly rem oval.
Page 5 of 7 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - GENERAL SERVICING 1991 Ford Compressor Overhaul
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