1988 PONTIAC FIERO check engine light

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-7
I I Figure 6A2-5 Engine Mounting
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
POWERTRAIN MOUNTS but not down (mount bottomed out), replace the
mount. If there is relative movement between a metal
Engine mounts (Figure 6A2-5) are the plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the nonadjustable type and seldom require service. Broken screws or nuts attaching the mount to the transmission or deteriorated mounts should be replaced or cross member^
immediately, because of the added strain placed on
other mounts and drive line components.
Front Mount Replacement
Checking Engine Mounts
1. Disconnect battery.
Front Mount 2. Remove top half of fan shroud.
3. Raise vehicle.
Raise the engine to remove weight from the
4. Remove mount through bolt. mounts and to place a slight tension in the rubber.
Observe both mounts while raising engine. If an engine 5. Raise front of engine and remove
mount exhibits: mount-to-engine
bolts and remove mount.
l
a. Hard rubber surface covered with heat
check cracks;
b. Rubber separated from a metal plate
of the
mount;
c. Rubber split through center, replace the
mount. If there is relative movement
between a metal plate of the mount and its
attaching points, lower the engine on the
mounts and tighten the screws or nuts
attaching the mount to the engine, frame, or
bracket.
Rear Mount
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Push up and pull
down on the transmission tailshaft while observing the
transmission mount. If the rubber separates from the
metal plate of the mount or if the tailshaft moves up
NOTICE: Raise engine only enough for sufficient
clearance. Check for interference between rear of
engine and cowl panel which could cause
distributor damage.
6. Replace mount to engine and lower engine into
place.
7. Install retaining bolt and torque all bolts to
specifications.
Rear Mount Replacement
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Remove mount and support nuts.
4. Raise transmission.
5. Remove mount.

2.8 LITER V.6 6A2.13
Torque bolts as shown in Figure 6A2-15.
4. Install
push rods and loosely retain with rocker
arms. Make sure lower ends of
pushrods are in
lifter seats.
5. Install intake manifold.
6. Raise vehicle.
7. Install dipstick tube bracket.
8. Connect exhaust pipe
to exhaust manifold flange.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Adjust
valve lash as previously outlined.
11. Continue
following intake manifold installation
for build up.
Removal (Right)
Remove intake manifold as previously outlined.
Raise vehicle.
Disconnect exhaust pipe.
Drain engine block.
Lower vehicle.
Loosen rocker arms until able to remove push
rod.
Remove serpentine belt.
Remove tensioner.
Remove A.I.R. bracket.
Remove generator bracket.
Remove head bolts.
Remove head.
Installation (Right)
The gasket surfaces on both the head and cylinder
case
deck must be clean of any foreign matter and free
of nicks of heavy scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in the
case and threads on the cylinder head bolts must be
clean. Dirt will affect bolt torque.
1. Place the gasket in position, over the dowel pins,
with the note "This Side Up" showing.
2. Install cylinder head.
3. Coat cylinder head bolt threads with sealer,
#lo52080 or equivalent, and install bolts.
Torque bolts as shown in (Figure
6A2-15).
Install push rods and loosely retain with rocker
arms. Make sure lower ends of push rods are in
lifter seats.
Install intake manifold.
Raise vehicle.
Install exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold flange.
Lower vehicle.
Adjust valve lash as previously outlined.
Install AIR bracket.
Install tensioner.
Install generator bracket.
Continue following intake manifold installation
for build up.
Disassembly
1. With cylinder head removed, remove rocker arm
nuts, balls and rocker arms (if not previously
done).
2. Using tool J-8062, compress the valve springs and
remove valve keys. Release the compressor tool and
remove spring caps, oil shedders, springs and
damper assemblies, then remove oil seals.
3. Remove valves from cylinder head and place
them in a rack so they can be installed in their
original positions.
Cleaning and Inspection
Clean all carbon from combustion chambers and
valve ports using 'tool
5-8089.
Thoroughly clean valve guides using 5-8 10 1.
Clean all carbon and sludge from push rods,
rocker arms and push rod guides.
Clean valve stems and heads on a buffing wheel.
Clean carbon deposits from head gasket mating
surface.
Inspect cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, or external cracks
to the water jacket.
Inspect the valves for burned heads, cracked faces
or damaged stems.
NOTICE: Excessive valve stem to bore clearance
will cause high oil consumption and may cause
valve breakage. Insufficient clearance will result in
noise and sticky functioning of the valve and
disturb engine smoothness.
8. Measure valve stem clearance as follows:
a. Clamp
a dial indicator on one side of the
cylinder head. Locate the indicator so that
movement of the valve stem from side to
side (crosswise to the head) will cause direct
movement of the indicator stem. The
indicator stem must contact the side of the
valve stem just above the guide.
b. Drop
the valve head
1.5mm off the valve
seat.
c. Move
the stem of the valve from side to side,
using light pressure, to obtain a clearance
reading. If clearance exceeds specifications,
it will be necessary to ream valve guides for
oversize valves. Service valves are available
in std., 089,
.394 and .775mm O.S. sizes.
9. Check
valve spring tension with tool J-8056,
spring tester. Springs should be compressed to the
specified height and checked against the
specifications chart. Springs should be replaced if
not within 44
N (10 Ibs.) of the specified load
(without dampers).
10. Inspect
rocker arm studs for wear or damage.
ROCKER ARM STUDS
Cylinder heads use threaded rocker arm studs.
Rocker arm studs that have damaged threads should
be replaced with new studs. If, for some reason, the
threads in the head
are damaged or stripped, the head
can be retapped, and a helical type insert added. If such
an insert is not available, the head should be replaced.
VALVE GUIDES
Valves with oversize stems are available in .089,
,394 and ,775mm over sizes. To ream the valve guide

2.8 LITER V.6 6A2-15
18-30 N.m (13-22 FT. LBS.)
I 11 47-48 N.m (20-35 FT. LBS.) I
Figure 6A2-17 Water Pump/Front Cover Orientation
CRANKCASE FRONT COVER
Removal
1. Raise engine.
2. Remove oil pan.
3. Lower vehicle.
4. Remove water pump as outlined in Section 6B.
5. If A/C equipped, remove compressor from
mounting bracket and lay aside. Then remove
compressor mounting bracket.
6. Remove torsional damper as previously outlined.
7. Disconnect lower radiator hose at front cover and
heater hose at water pump.
8. Remove remaining front cover bolts and remove
cover.
Installation
1. Install new gasket. When installing new gasket,
be sure sealing surfaces are clean. Care should be
taken not to damage sealing surfaces.
2. Place front cover on the engine, install stud bolt
and bolts, install water pump as outlined in
Section 6B, install retaining bolts and nut and
torque to specifications.
3. Connect lower radiator hose to front cover.
Torque clamps to
3.5 N-m (30 lb. in.).
4. Install torsional damper as previously outlined.
5. Install water pump as outlined in Section 6B.
6. If A/C equipped, install compressor mounting
bracket and install compressor.
7. Raise vehicle.
8. Inspect oil pan gasket replace if necessary.
9. Install oil pan.
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Install serpentine belt.
12. Fill cooling system. Leave radiator cap off.
13. Connect battery negative cable and start engine.
14. Run engine until upper radiator hose becomes
hot (thermostat open).
15. Check coolant level and add as necessary.
16. Install radiator cap, making sure arrows on cap
line up with overflow tube.
OIL SEAL (FRONT COVER)
Replacement
With Cover Removed
1. With cover removed, pry oil seal out of cover
from the front with a large screw driver.
2. Install new seal so that open end of the seal is
toward the inside of cover and drive it into
position with Tool
5-23042. Support cover at seal
area. Pre-lube seal with engine oil prior to
installation of torsional damper.
With Cover Installed
1. With torsional damper removed, pry seal out of
cover from the front with a large screw driver,
being careful not to damage the surface on the
crankshaft.
2. Install new seal so that open end of seal is toward
the inside of cover and drive it into position with
To01 5-23042.
Figure 6A2-18 Timing Chain and Sprockets
TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKET
Removal
1. Remove crankcase front cover as previously
outlined.
2. Place #1 piston at top dead center with the
marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets
aligned (#4 firing).
3. Remove camshaft sprocket bolts and remove
camshaft sprocket and chain (Figure
6A2- 18).
Sprocket is a light fit on camshaft.
If sprocket
does not come off easily, a light blow on the lower
edge of the sprocket (with a plastic mallet) should
dislodge the sprocket.
Installation
1. Install timing chain on camshaft sprocket, lube
thrust surface with Molykote or its equivalent.
Hold the sprocket vertically with the chain
hanging down and align the marks on the
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. (Refer to
Figure
6A2- 19).

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-19
4. Measure the crankpin for out-of-round or taper
with a micrometer. If not within specifications,
replace or recondition the crankshaft. If within
specifications and a new bearing is to be installed,
measure the maximum diameter of the crankpin,
to determine new bearing size required.
5. If within specifications, measure new or used
bearing clearance with Plastigage or its
equivalent.
NOTICE: If a bearing is being fitted to an
out-of-round crankpin, be sure to fit to the
maximum diameter of the crankpin. If the bearing
is fitted to the minimum diameter and the
crankpin is out-of-round .025mm interference
between the bearing and
crankpin will result in a
rapid bearing failure.
a.
Place a piece of gaging plastic the full width
of the
crankpin as contacted by the bearing
(parallel to the crankshaft).
b. Install
the bearing in the connecting rod and
cap.
c. Install
the rod cap and evenly torque nuts
to specifications. Do not turn the crankshaft
with gaging plastic installed.
d. Remove
the rod cap and using the scale on
the gaging plastic envelope, measure the
gaging plastic width at the widest point.
6. If
the clearance exceeds specifications, select a
new, correct size, bearing and remeasure the
clearance.
If clearance cannot be brought to within
specifications, the
crankpin will have to be
ground undersize. If the
crankpin is already
at maximum undersize, replace crankshaft.
7. Coat the
bearing surface with oil, install the rod
cap and torque nuts to 50
N-m (37 lb. ft.).
8. When all connecting rod bearings have been
installed tap each rod lightly (parallel to the
crankpin) to make sure they have clearance.
9. Measure all connecting rod side clearances (see
specifications) between the rod cap and
crankshaft throw (Figure 6A2-23).
MAIN BEARINGS (FIGURE 6A2-24)
Main bearings are of the precision insert type and
do not utilize shims for adjustment. If clearances are
found to be excessive, a new bearing, both upper and
lower halves, will be required. Service bearings are
available in standard size and undersize.
Selective fitting of both rod and main bearing
inserts is necessary in production in order to obtain
close tolerances. For this reason you may find one half
of a standard insert with one half of a
.016mm
undersize insert which will decrease the clearance
.008mm from using a full standard bearing.
Inspection
In general, the lower half of the bearing (except
# 1 bearing) shows a greater wear and the most distress
from fatigue. If upon inspection, the lower half is
suitable for use, it can be assumed that the upper half
APPLY OIL TO ALL MAlN BEARINGS
E WITH ARROW ON CAP
FRONT OF ENGINE.
(1, 2 8, 3 ONLY).
Figure 6A2-24 Main Bearings
is also satisfactory. Of the lower half shows evidence
of wear or damage, both upper and lower halves should
be replaced. Never replace one half without replacing
the other half.
Checking Clearance
To obtain the most accurate results with
"Plastigage", (or its equivalent), a wax-like plastic
material which will compress evenly between the
bearing and journal surfaces without damaging either
surface, certain precautions should be observed.
If the engine is out of the vehicle and upside
down, the crankshaft will rest on the upper bearings
and the total clearance can be measured between the
lower bearing and journal. If the engine is to remain in
the vehicle, the crankshaft should be supported both
front and rear to remove the clearance from the upper
bearing. The toal clearance can then be measured
between the lower bearing and journal. When checking
# 1 main bearing, loosen accessory drive belts so as to
prevent tapered reading with plastic gage.
NOTICE: To assure the proper seating of the
crankshaft, all bearing cap bolts should be at their
specified torque. In addition, prior to checking the
bearing fit, the surface of the crankshaft journal
and bearing should be wiped clean of oil.
1. With the oil pan and oil pump removed, and
starting with the rear main bearing, remove
bearing cap and wipe oil from journal and bearing
cap.
2. Place a piece of gaging plastic the full width of the
bearing (parallel to the crankshaft) on the
journal. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the
gaging plastic is between the bearing and journal.
3. Install
the bearing cap and evenly torque the
retaining bolts to 95
N.m (70 lb. ft.). Bearing cap
MUST be torqued to specification in order to
assure proper reading. Variations in torque affect
the compression of the plastic gage.

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-21
SEAL BORE TO SEAL SURFACE
TO BE LUBRICATED
WlTH ENGINE OK BEFORE I ASSEMBLY
Figure
6A2-27 Seal and Tool J-34686
ALIGNMENT HOLE
DUST
LIP
I SCREWS I
Figure 6A2-28 Installing Seal
OIL SEAL - REAR MAIN
Repair
1. Remove transmission.
2. Remove flexplate.
3. Old
seal, insert a screwdriver or similar tool
through the dust lip at an angle as shown in
Figure
6A2-26. Pry seal out by moving handle of
tool towards the end of the crankshaft. Repeat as
required around the seal until seal is removed.
CARE MUST BE TAKEN NOT TO
DAMAGE THE CRANKSHAFT O.D.
SURFACE
WlTH THE PRY TOOL.
4. Check
the I.D. of bore for knicks or burrs and
correct as required. Inspect crankshaft for burrs
or knicks on surface which contacts seal. Repair
or replace crankshaft as required.
5. Install new seal using Tool J-34686, Figure
6A2-27.
6. Apply a
light coat of oil to I.D. of new seal and
install over mandril, slide the seal on the mandril
until the dust lip (back of seal) bottoms squarely
against collar of tool, Figure
6A2-28.
7. Align dowel pin of tool with dowel pin hole in
crankshaft and attach tool to crankshaft by hand
or torque attaching screw to 2-5 ft. lbs.
8. Turn
"T" handle of tool so that collar pushes seal
into the bore, turn handle until the collar is tight
against the case. This will insure that the seal is
seated properly.
9. Loosen the "T" handle of the tool until it comes
to a stop. This will insure that the collar will be
in the proper position for installing a new seal.
Remove attaching screws.
10. Check seal,
making sure seal is seated squarely in
the bore.
1
1. Install flywheel.
12. Install transmission.
13. Start
engine, check for leaks.
PISTONS, RINGS AND CONNECTING RODS
Removal
1. Remove cylinder heads.
2. Examine the cylinder bores above the ring tavel.
If bores are worn so that a shoulder or ridge exists
at the top of the cylinder, remove the ridges with
a ridge reamer to avoid damaging rings or
cracking ring lands in pistons during removal.
3. Use a silver pencil or quick drying paint to mark
the cylinder number on all pistons, connecting
rods and caps. Starting at the front end of the
crankcase the cylinders in the right bank are
numbered 1-3-5 and those in the left bank are
number 2-4-6.
4. Remove rod bearing
cap and bearing.
5. Install
guide hose over threads of rod bolts. This
is to prevent damage to bearing journal and rod
bolt threads.
6. Remove rod
and piston assembly through the top
of the cylinder bore.
Disassembly
1. Remove compression rings
and oil ring.
2. Install piston and connecting rod assembly on
fixture and support J-24086-20 and place in an
arbor press. Press pin out of connecting rod.
Inspection
1. Inspect cylinder walls for scoring, roughtness, or
ridges which indicate excessive wear. Check
cylinder bores for taper and out-of-round with an
accurate cylinder gage at top, middle and bottom
of bore, both parallel at right angles to the
cylinder bores at any point may be measured with
an inside micrometer or setting the cylinder gage
dial at
"0" and measuring across the gage
contact points with outside micrometer while the
gage is at same
"0" setting.
2. If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly
scored but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is
usually possible to remedy the situation by
honing the bore to fit a standard service piston
since standard service pistons are high limit
production pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough
or deeply scored, however, it may be necessary to

rebore the cylinder to fit an oversize piston in
order to insure satisfactory results.
3. If cylinder bore is tapered 0. lmm or more or is
out-of-round
O.lmm or more, it is advisable to
rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston
and rings. Below these limits, the cylinder bore
can be trued up with honing.
4. Clean carbon from piston surfaces and under side
of piston heads. Clean carbon from ring grooves
with suitable tool and remove any gum or varnish
from piston skirts with suitable solvent.
5. Carefully examine pistons for
rough or scored
surfaces; cracks in skirt or head; cracked or
broken ring lands; chipped or uneven wearing
pistons would cause rings to seat improperly or
have excessive clearance in ring grooves.
Damaged or faulty pistons should be replaced.
The pistons are cam ground, which means that
the diameter at a right angle to the wrist pin is
greater than the diameter parallel to the wrist pin.
When a piston is checked for size, it must be done
at points 90" to the piston pin. The piston should
be checked (for fitting purposes) in a plane
through the piston pin centerline.
6. Inspect surfaces of wrist pins and check for wear
by measuring worn or unworn surfaces with
micrometers. Occasionally pins will be found
tight due to gum or varnish deposits. This may be
corrected by removing the deposit with a suitable
solvent. If piston bosses are worn out-of-round or
oversize, the piston and pin assembly must be
replaced. Oversize pins are not practical due to
the pin being a press fit in the connecting rod.
Piston pins must fit the piston with an easy finger
push at 70°F (21°C)
(.0065 to .0091mm
clearance).
7. Examine all piston rings for scores, chips or
cracks. Check compression rings for tension by
comparing with new rings. Check gap of
compression rings by placing rings in bore at
bottom of ring travel. Measure gap with feeler
gage. Gap should be between
0.25mm and 0.
50mm. If gaps are excessive (over 0.50mm) it
indicates the rings have worn considerably and
should be replaced. Bore wear should be checked
before rings are replaced,
. l25mm bore wear will
result in
.39mm increase in ring gap.
Assembly
There is a machined hole or a cast notch in the
top of all pistons to facilitate proper installation. The
piston assemblies should always be installed with the
hole toward the front of the engine (Figure
6A2-29).
1. Lubricate piston pin holes in piston and
connecting rod light with engine oil.
2. Position
conncecting rod in its respective piston.
Hold in place with piston pin guide and piston
pin. Place assembly on fixture and support
assembly
J-24086-20.
3. Press the piston pin into the piston and
connecting rod.
NOTCH TO
FRONT OF
ENGINE
Figure 6A2-29 Piston
NOTICE: After installer hub bottoms on support
assembly, do not exceed 5000 psi pressure, as this
could cause structural damage to the tool.
4. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly
from tool and check piston pin for freedom of
movement on piston.
0 Emj@NE Lm ENGINE IRON1 EWINI llWl 0
2 - 1 - 6 CYLINDER
"A" OIL
RING SACER CAP (Tang in Hola w Slot wihin Ad
"B" 011 RING MIL GArs
"C" 1ND COMPRESSION RIM GAB
"DM TOP COAarRESSlON RING GAP
Figure 6A2-30 Ring Gap Locations I
I
Installation I
Cylinder bores must be clean before piston
installation. This may be accomplished with a hot
water and detergent wash or with a light honing as
necessary. After cleaning, the bores should be swabbed
several times with light engine oil and a clean dry cloth.
1. Lubricate connecting rod bearings and install in
rods and rod caps.
2. Lightly coat pistons, rings and cylinder walls
with light engine oil.
3. With bearing caps removed, install guide hose
over connecting rod bolts. These guide hoses
protect the
crankpin journal from damage during
installation of connecting rod and piston
assembly.

V-8 ENGINE BA3-5
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
Fig. 6A3-3 Engine Mounts
POWERTRAIN MOUNTS
Engine mounts (fig. 6A3-3) are the
non-adjustable type and seldom require service.
Broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced
immediately, because of the added strain placed on
other mounts and drive line components.
Checking Engine Mounts
Front Mount
Raise the engine to remove weight from the
mounts and to place a slight tension in the rubber.
Observe both mounts while raising engine. If an engine
mount exhibits:
a. Hard rubber surface covered with heat
check cracks;
b. Rubber separated from a metal plate of the
mount;
c. Rubber split through center
replace the mount. If there is relative movement
between a metal plate of the mount and its attaching
points, lower the engine on the mounts and tighten the
screws or nuts attaching the mount to the engine,
frame, or bracket.
Rear Mount
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Push up and pull
down on the transmission tailshaft while observing the
transmission mount. If the rubber separates from the
metal plate of the mount or if the tailshaft moves up
but not down (mount bottomed out) replace the mount.
If there is relative movement between a metal
plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the
screws or nuts attaching the mount to the transmission
or crossmember.
Front Mount Replacement
1. Remove mount retaining bolt from below frame
mounting bracket.
2. Raise front of engine and remove
mount-to-engine bolts and remove mount. Raise
engine only enough for sufficient clearance.
Check for interference between rear of engine and
cowl panel.
3. Replace mount to engine and lower engine into
place.
4. Install retaining bolt and torque all bolts to
specifications.
Rear Mount Replacement I
1. Support transmission weight to relieve rear
mounts.
2. Remove crossmember-to-mount nuts.
3. Remove mount-to-transmission bolts, raise
transmission, then remove mount.
4. Install new mount on transmission.
5. While lowering transmission, align mount to
crossmember.
6. Torque bolts to specifications.

QA3-10 V-8 ENGINE
lnstallation
1. Install valve stem seal over valve stem and seat
against head.
2. Set
the valve spring and damper, oil shedder and
valve cap in place. Compress the spring with Tool
J-5892 and install oil seal in the lower groove of
the stem, making sure the seal is flat and not
twisted. A light coat of oil on the seal will help
prevent twisting.
3. Install
the valve locks and release the compressor
tool making sure the locks seat properly in the
upper groove of the valve stem. Grease may be
used to hold the locks in place while releasing the
compressor tool.
4. Using tool J-23994, apply vacuum to the valve
cap to make sure no air leaks past the seal.
5. Install spark plug and torque to 22 lb. ft.
(30N.m).
6. Install and adjust valve mechanism as previously
outlined.
VALVE LIFTERS
Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require
attention. The lifters are extremely simple in design,
readjustments are not necessary, and servicing of the
lifters requires only that care and cleanliness be
exercised in the handling of parts.
Valve Lifter Diagnosis
1.
Momentarily Noisy When Car is Started:
This condition is normal. Oil drains from the
lifters which are holding the valves open when the
engine is not running. It will take a few seconds
for the lifter to fill after the engine is started.
2. Intermittently Noisy On Idle Only. Disappearing
When Engine Speed is Increased:
Intermittent clicking may be an indication of a
pitted check valve ball, or it may be caused by
dirt.
Correction: Clean the lifter and inspect. If check
valve ball is defective, replace lifter.
3. Noisy At Slow Idle Or With Hot Oil, Quiet With
Cold Oil Or As Engine Speed Is Increased:
High leak down rate. Replace suspect lifter.
4. Noisy At High Car Speeds And Quiet At Low
Speeds:
a. High oil level
- Oil level above the "Full"
mark allows crankshaft counterweights to
churn the oil into foam. When foam is
pumped into the lifters, they will become
noisy since a solid column of oil is required
for proper operation. Correction: Drain oil
inti1 proper level is obtained.
b. Low oil level - Oil level below the "Add"
mark allows the pump to pump air at high
speeds which results in noisy lifters.
Correction: Fill until proper oil level is
obtained.
c. Oil pan bent on bottom or pump screen
cocked or loose, replace or repair as
necessary. 5.
Noisy At Idle Becoming Louder As Engine Speed
Is Increased To 1500 rpm:
This noise is not connected with lifter
malfunction. It becomes most noticeable in the
car at 10 to 15 mph "1" (Low) range, or 30 to
35
mph "DM (Drive) range and is best described as
a
hashy sound. At slow idle, it may be entirely
gone or appear as a light ticking noise in one or
more valves. It is caused by one or more of the
following:
a. Badly worn or scuffed valve tip and rocker
arm pad.
b. Excessive valve stem to guide clearance.
c. Excessive valve seat
runout.
d. Off square valve spring.
e. Excessive valve face
runout.
f. Valve spring damper clicking on rotator.
Removal
1.
Remove intake manifold as previously outlined.
2. Remove valve mechanism as previously outlined.
3. Remove valve lifter retainer.
4. Remvoe valve lifter restrictor.
5. Remove valve lifters (Fig.
6A3-7). Place valve
lifters in a rack so that they may be reinstalled in
the same location.
Installation
1.
Coat roller of valve lifters with "Molykote" or its
equivalent and install valve lifters.
2. Install valve lifter restrictor.
3. Install valve lifter retainer.
4. Install intake manifold as previously outlined.
5. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.
Disassembly
PLUNGER SPRING
Fig. 6A3-1 1 Hydraulic Valve Lifter
1. Hold the plunger down with a push rod, and
using the blade of a small screw driver, remove
the push rod seat retainer.
2. Remove the push rod seat and metering valve
(fig.
6A3- 1 1).