1988 FIAT TEMPRA engine oil

U Step 12: Fit a new seal to the front cover/oil pump
assembly, unless a new pump is being fitted, and install with a
new gasket, lightly oiling both gasket and seal. Align the cover
with the sump support plate.
PISTON CONNECTING RODS ASSEMBLIES
• Step 13:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION!
Refer to the illus-
tration and note
that the piston
should be fitted
to the connecting
rod so that when
viewed from the
timing end the
crown lift (1) is
on the right
hand/injection
pump (2) side. At
the same time,
the bore numbers
stamped on the connecting rod (3) should face left, the
opposite side. The piston pins are an interference fit in
the pistons and can be tapped into position using an
ordinary drift and secured with circlips. H
Refer to Job 6. Steps 11 to
18,
for installation procedures.
Q Step 14: Refit the oil pump pick-up and return pipes.
• Step 15: Refit the sump using a new gasket. Check that
the drain plug is tight.
• Step 16: Complete the reassembly by fitting all the
external components in the reverse order of removal. Refer to
Job
15
for cylinder head refitting.
• Step 17: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job
22

• Step 18: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
19

• Step 19: Bleed the fuel system. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Bleeding the fuel system
involves turning the engine on the starter. This should
allow it to gain oil pressure before 'firing up', but check
that the oil light has gone out as soon as the engine
starts. H
Q Step 20: Allow the engine to run at 'fast idle' until it
reaches working temperature and switch off. Allow it to cool
and check the oil and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
Q Step 21: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend
an oil and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your engine.
PART B: TRANSMISSION
PART B: Contents
Job 1. Transmission removal (with engine in car).
Job 2. Transmission refitting (with engine in car).
Job 3. Clutch
-
replacement.
Job 4. Clutch cable
-
replacement.
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

replacement.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

adjustment.
Job 8. Automatic gear selector control cable
-
replacement.
Job 9. Drive-shaft
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer) constant velocity joint
-

replacement.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider joint
-
replacement.
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper
-
replacement.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings
-
replacement.
Job 14. Hydraulic clutch components.
Job 1. Transmission removal
(with engine in car).
IMPORTANT NOTE: This operation is for cars fitted with
the 1400 and 1600cc petrol engines and non-turbo diesel
engines. For the 1930cc turbo diesel engined version the
complete power unit must be removed and then
separated. See PART A, Jobs 18, 19, 21 and 22 for the
removal of several of the ancillaries detailed here.
• Step 1:
Before
starting
work, ensure
that you can
support the
car suffi-
ciently high
off the ground for the gearbox to be removed from beneath.
Make sure that the gearbox-end of the engine is supported
from above the car, or from beneath. You may be able to
fabricate your own version of this FIAT tool (arrowed).

• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on

axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring

from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and

unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from

the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering

arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo

the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,

pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just

taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With

the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen

the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity

joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force

to be
tightened or
released (see

Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if

you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14

• Step 4: Refill the gearbox with the correct grade and
quantity of FL oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Section as appropriate, for the replacement of the rear
crankshaft seal. B
—1 Step 5: When the brake calipers have been refitted,
pump the brake pedal until its normal solid feel is restored.
• Step 6: Use a self-grip wrench to reconnect the gear rod
balls and sockets. Use new drive-shaft nuts, tightened to the
correct torque and staked into the shaft grooves with a
punch. See Job 9.
Job 3. Clutch - replacement.
1 - cover plate 2 - driven plate 3 - release bearing
4 - retaining bolt 5 - spring washer
;
Job 3-1
Q Step 1: These first three numbered parts are the parts
you will need to obtain, from your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: CLUTCH COMPONENTS
• We strongly recommend that all three
main components: clutch cover, driven
plate and release bearing are replaced
after a high mileage, ensuring longer life
and smoother operation.
• If one is worn, they are all likely to be, so save
yourself another big stripdown in the near future!
LI Step 2: Remove the transmission. See Job 1.
• Step 3: Unscrew the clutch cover bolts (see illustration
Job
3-1,
part 4) progressively until the spring pressure is
released, then remove the bolts. Ease the cover (part 1) off its
dowels and catch the driven plate {part 2) as it falls.
• Step 6: Check the surface of the flywheel that mates
with the clutch, for scoring, or significant micro cracking
caused by excessive head generated by clutch slip. Replace the
flywheel if in doubt.
7ZJ
• Step 7: Check the
release fork pivot, inside
the bellhousing, for wear
Replace the bushes (see
inset) if necessary, lubri-
cating with a small
quantity of molybdenum
disulphide grease.
• Step 8: Replace the bush
(a) by removing the circlip (b)
from the lever shaft (d). Note
the position of the arm (c) on
the splines for refitting and
slide it off. Prise the bush out
using a screwdriver. Lubricate
the new bush with a small
quantity of molybdenum disul-
phide grease and install. Refit
the arm to the fork control
shaft (d) with a new circlip.
Refit the release bearing (e).
• Step 9: Clean any oil (or the protective film) from the
clutch cover and flywheel faces.
• Step 10: Offer the driven plate to the flywheel with the
side having the greatest hub projection facing outwards.
• Step 11: Locate the clutch cover on the flywheel dowels
and screw in the fixing bolts finger tight.
• Step 12: Use an aligning tool to make sure that the
clutch is centralised, otherwise the gearbox will not relocate
on the engine and damage can be caused to the centre plate.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: There is no spigot bush or
bearing in the crankshaft end, but there is an inden-
tation which you can 'feel' with a normal clutch
alignment tool allowing you to centralise the driven
plate between the clutch cover release fingers. B
• Step 5: B INSIDE
INFORMATION: Check
the inside of the
clutch bellhousing for
contamination by oil.
This indicates a leak
from either the
crankshaft rear seal
or the gearbox input
shaft seal (illus-
trated). A faulty seal should be replaced without delay.
Oil can cause judder and slip. Here, the seal (inset) is
being replaced. See PART A: ENGINE, Job 21 for the
position of the rear crankshaft seal. B
• Step 4: B INSIDE
INFORMATION! Check
the inside of the clutch
bell housing for conta-
mination by oil. This
indicates a leak from
either the crankshaft
rear seal or the
gearbox input shaft
seal. Oil can cause
judder and slip.
Replace the gearbox seal by removing the screws holding
in the thrust bearing sleeve (a), prising out the old and
fitting a new seal (b). See PART A: Petrol or Diesel

Job 9. Drive-shaft - removal
and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For removal of the diesel Turbo's
drive-shaft, see also PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A.
G Step 1: Drain the transmission oil.
• Step 8B: Diesel turbo
models have a bolt-on inboard
flange.
• Step 9: Withdraw the shaft
from the transmission (illus-
tration Job
9-8A,
part b).
G Step 2: Ask a helper to apply the footbrake very firmly
while
you
slacken the drive-shaft-to-hub nut, using a long bar
for
good
leverage after
opening out the
staking on the nut, as
far
as
possible. DON'T

do so
with the car off

the
ground because

the
very large force
needed could pull it off

its stands.
Remove the

nut
after the car has
been raised.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer)
constant velocity joint -
G Step 8A: Undo the

inboard
gaiter retaining

clip
(a) and release the
gaiter.
• Step 11: Refill the
transmission with oil.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.
G Step 3: Slacken the hub nuts on the side to be worked

on.
Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands.
Remove the roadwheel.
G Step 6: Remove the

hub
carrier securing

bolts
(arrowed) from the

base
of the front
suspension strut and tap

the
carrier down and out

of the
clamp. Pull the

top
outwards.
G Step 7: Push

or tap
the drive-

shaft
splines
(arrowed) out of

the hub
carrier,

taking
care not to

damage
the
thread.
Q Step 1: Remove the drive-shaft from the car. See Job 9. G Step 4: Unbolt the
brake hose support clip

from
the suspension strut.
G Step 5: Disconnect the
track rod end from the
steering arm using a
suitable splitter tool.
• Step 2: Remove
the gaiter retaining
clip...
Q Step 3: ...and pull
the gaiter clear.
• Step 4: Remove
the circlip and pull the
CV joint from the shaft.
Q Step 5: Thoroughly clean the joint with petrol or other
agent and dry. Check that the balls and their seats are still in a
good, unbroken shiny condition
-
no score marks. Fit a new
joint if in doubt.
• Step 6: Fit the new gaiter onto the shaft, followed by the
CV joint and circlip. Pack the joint with the grease supplied or
with FL Tutela MRM2 grease.
Q Step 7: Pull the gaiter over the joint and secure with the
retaining band or new screw-type clip. The drive-shaft
assembly is now ready for refitting.
• Step 10: Refit in the
reverse order, using a new
drive-shaft nut tightened to the
specified torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures Stake the nut
into the drive shaft
groove, as shown.

Job 5. Coolant pump -
replacement.
L) Step 4: Lower the switch into water until the thread is

just
covered and the terminals remain dry.
G Step 5: Heat the water slowly. The bulb should light just
below boiling point (90 to 94 degrees Celsius) and go out

when
the temperature falls below 85 to 89 degrees Celsius.
G Step 6: Refit with a new O-ring but do not over tighten.
Job 4. Thermostat - replacement.
G Step 1: Drain the cooling system.
G Step 2: Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing. Illustration Type 1, part 4 (petrol), or Type 2, part
6 (diesel). Undo the bolts and remove the housing/thermostat
assembly.
G Step 3: Clean the mating surfaces, fit the new unit with a

new
gasket.
G Step 4: Reconnect the hoses and refill the cooling system

with
the correct 50/50 FL 'Paraflu' anti-freeze mixture. See

Chapter
5, Servicing Your Car.
E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! For location of the water pump,
see illustration Type 1 (petrol), or Type 2 (diesel). B
• Step 1: Raise the bonnet and drain the cooling system.
Remove the air cleaner.
• Step 2: Unplug the alternator leads, slacken the bolts and
remove the drive belt. Remove the alternator.
• Step 3: Disconnect the hoses and the metal transfer pipe
from the pump.
• Step 4: Undo the securing bolts and remove the coolant
pump.
• Step 5: Discard the old gasket and clean off the mating
surfaces.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order using a new gasket.
• Step 7: Adjust the drivebelt tension. See Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car.
• Step 8: Fill the cooling system with the correct 50/50
solution of FL 'Paraflu' anti-freeze solution. See Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures.
PART D: IGNITION SYSTEMS
——
PART D: Contents
Job 1. Ignition component positions. Job 4. Distributor
-
removal and refitting (1.6 litre engine).
Job
2.
Ignition coil
-
replacement. Job 5. Electronic ignition.
Job
3.
Distributor
-
removal and refitting (1.4 litre engine).
Job 1. Ignition component
positions.
washer g - distributor spacer Job 1-2B
G Point 1: Take note of the positions of the major ignition
components.
Q Point 2B: These are the 1.6 ignition components. Later
models had the coil integral with the distributor.
o
a
>
H
w
w
ON
(A
H
ri
S
VI
107
G Point 2A: This is the 1.4 system, from 1993-on. Earlier
components are in the same positions.
a
-
distributor b
-
ignition coil ^ c-HT leads ^ d
-
clamp with bolt and washer e
-
plug f
-
HT lead support g
-
distributor spacer
Job 1-2 A

Job 2. Ignition coil - replacement.
ALL 1.4 MODELS AND 1.6 MODELS UP TO 1993
Q Step 1: Locate the coil (2) next to
the battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On 1.6 models
from 1993 with SPI Monomotronic
fuel injection, the high tension coil
is integral with the distributor.
• Step 2: Make sure the ignition is
switched off and disconnect all LT (the
smaller, low tension) wires from the
coil, making note of their locations for
refitting.
• Step 3: Unplug the HT (the
thicker, high tension) lead to the
distributor at the coil end. Undo the
mountings and remove the coil.
• Step 4: Mount the new coil, remake all connections
correctly and firmly.
Job 3. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.4 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.4. LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
This system is of the BREAKERLESS
INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE type (2nd gener-
ation) and employs a distributor looking
much like those used on older cars, still
having an internal centrifugal advance mechanism, a vacuum
advance mechanism (3),
but NO contact breaker
points - an electronic
control module (2)
instead. This means that
once set, the timing
cannot alter through
points gap fluctuation.
Maintenance is also
reduced to a minimum,
the main requirements
being to keep the unit
clean and dry.
l_) Step 1: Locate the distributor (see illustration Job1-2A,
part a) which is mounted on the forward facing side of the
engine block, close to the timing belt cover.
I—] Step 2: Remove the distributor cap and leads.
Q Step 3: Disconnect the (thinner) low tension lead, undo
the distributor base clamp and withdraw the distributor.
Q Step 4: Turn
the engine until
the crankshaft
pulley timing
mark is aligned
with the '0' (TDC)
mark on the
timing belt cover
(a) and the marks
seen through the
timing belt
window (b), also
line up.
• Step S: If the
marks

seen through the window
do not align
-
turn the
engine another complete revolution and they will.
• Step 6: Refit the distributor with the centre of the rotor
contact pointing 180 degrees away from (in other words,
exactly opposite) the reference mark on the distributor dust
cover.
Q Step 7: Refit the distributor cap and remake all connec-
tions. Leave the vacuum pipe disconnected but plug the end
of the pipe.
Q Step 8: Refit the base clamp but leave just loose enough
to allow the distributor to turn.
Q Step 9: Connect a stroboscopic timing light and start the
engine. Run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Step 10:
Rotate the
distributor body
the required
amount in either
direction to align
the pulley timing
mark with the 10
degree BTDC
mark on the
timing belt cover
• Step 11: Remove the timing light, unplug and reconnect
the vacuum pipe.
Job 4. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.6 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.6 LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
The DIGIPLEX 2 ALL ELECTRONIC (2nd
generation) IGNITION system used on the
1.6 litre engine is of advanced design and
requires no maintenance. Because there is no
mechanical wear, the advance curves remain constant during
the life of the unit. Inaccuracies due to wear or vibration are
eliminated. The high spark intensity is constant, even with a
low battery when starting, and at high RPM.
and lock the distributor base clamp.

1 - injection control unit 15 - electric fuel pump 2 - butterfly valve angular protective fuse position sensor (potentiometer) 16 - heated Lambda sensor 3 - coolant temperature sensor protective fuse 4 - petrol vapour cut-out 17 - electric fuel pump solenoid valve 18 - Lambda sensor 5 - current restricter resistor for 20 - ignition switch injector 21 - battery 6 - electric fuel pump relay 23 - RPM and T.D.C. sensor feed 24 - Mono-Jetronic failure 7 - S.P.I, injection system relay warning light feed 25
-
fuel filter 9 - fuel injector 26 - active charcoal filter 10 - intake air temperature 27 - multi-purpose valve sensor 28 - tank ventilation and safety 11 - fuel pressure regulator valve 12 - engine idle adjustment motor and CUT-OFF micro switch 13 - ignition coil 14 - diagnostic socket
Q Step 1B: This is the Bosch Mono-jetronic S.P.I, injection system, used on the 1372cc (1400cc) engine.
1 - fuel tank 13 coolant temperature 2 - electric fuel pump sensor 3 - fuel filter 14 RPM sensor 4 - fuel pressure regulator, 15 electronic control unit integral with turret 16 - high tension coil 5 - injector 17 - system main relay 6 - atmospheric safety valve 18 - electric pump relay 7 - breather float, vent and 19 - Lambda sensor roll over cut-off valve 20 - ignition switch 8 - active charcoal filter 21 - battery 9 - petrol vapour cut out 22 - additional resistance solenoid valve 23 - system fuse 10 - air temperature sensor 24 - diagnostic socket 11 - butterfly valve opening 25 - warning light sensor (potentiometer) 26 - thermostatic duct 12 - engine idle adjustment motor and cut-off micro switch
Q Step 1C: This is the Bosch Monomotronic electronic injection system, used on the
1581
cc (1600cc) engine.
• Step 2: Disconnect the battery earth lead. Depressurise
the fuel system
-
see Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the air cleaner assembly and the rubber
sealing ring from around the top of the injection unit.
Q Step 4: Disconnect all electrical connections from the
injector unit, making a written note of their positions.
Q Step 5: Release the clips and disconnect the fuel supply
and return hoses from the unit.
G Step 6: Disconnect the breather hose from the unit.
• Step 7: Release the clip securing the throttle link rod to
the injection unit throttle lever, then detach the link rod from
the lever.
Q Step 8: Release the four Allen-type through-bolts in the
top of the injection which retain it to the manifold, then lift
the unit and its base gasket from the manifold.
• Step 9: Refit in the reverse order, making sure mating
faces are clean and the base gasket is new.
• Step 10: Reconnect the battery earth lead.
Job 4. Accelerator cable,
carburettor engines -
replacement and adjustment.
• Step 1: From
under the bonnet,
Slide the outer cable
from its bracket (a)
and detach the
inner cable from the
quadrant (b).
118

• Step 13:
Remove the
turbocharger oil
feed union bolt
(arrowed and inset).
Step 14:
Slacken the bolts (a)
and swing the
bracket in the
direction of the
arrow.
• Step 15: Undo
the remaining
exhaust manifold
nuts, then remove
the turbocharger
complete with the
exhaust manifold.
• Step 16: The
two units can easily
be separated once
they are off the car.
• Step 17:
Refitting is the
reverse of removal.
• Step 2:
Disconnect the
accelerator cable (1)
and the fast idle
control cable (2).
(See also, Job 6.)
• Step 3: Undo
the supply pipes
from the injectors...
Q Step 4: ...and
from the pump.
Remove them from
the car.
• Step 5: Undo the
banjo union bolt (2 and
inset) and remove the
excess fuel discharge
pipes
(1
and 3).
Job 16. Diesel injection pump -
removal and refitting.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Read and follow the information given in the FACT
FILE: FUEL INJECTION/ELECTRONIC IGNITION PRECAU-
TIONS, and the Safety First! information following it,
at the start of this chapter.
• Step 10: Slacken the timing belt tensioner nut and
remove the belt.
• Step 6: Now
undo this banjo
union bolt (arrowed
and inset) and
remove the fuel
supply pipe from
the injection pump.
• Step 7:
Disconnect the
engine cut out
solenoid plug
(arrowed)...
• Step 8: ...and
the cold start device
cable (arrowed).
• Step 9: Undo
the bolts and
remove the timing
cover.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
This operation is
the same for both
turbo and non-
turbo engines. The
illustrations are of
the turbo version.
• Step 1: Undo the
pressure pipe union
on the injector pump.
• INSIDE
INFORMATION!
When refitting the
pipes between the
turbocharger and
intercooler, and
the intercooler and inlet manifold, the reference marks
must align with the projection on the rigid sleeves. E3
Job 16-6