Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
- removal.
IMPORTANT NOTE: See PARTB: TRANSMISSION for
gearbox removal by itself.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The complete engine/trans-
mission unit is removed and replaced from under the car
- and this applies to all types. Make sure you can raise
the front of the car high enough (and support it safely
and securely!) to allow the power unit to be pulled clear
from underneath, before starting work! 13
• Step 1: Remove the bonnet
-
see PARTI: BODY AND
INTERIOR, Job 1.
• Step 5:
Disconnect the
carburettor or
injector fuel lines,
choke and throttle
cables and hoses and
electrical connections
(arrowed).
Q Step 6: Disconnect the starter motor cables, HT leads,
fuel pump lines, sensors and electrical connectors arrowed.
Job
8-7
• Step 2: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 3: Drain the cooling system and the engine oil.
Disconnect all hoses shown.
• Step 7: Disconnect the clutch cable (3) or clutch slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, the earth cable (2) and the reversing
lights switch cable
(1)
from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 8: Disconnect the alternator cables.
Q Step 9: Slacken the front wheel bolts, raise the car and
support securely on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
• Step 10: Drain
the gearbox oil.
• Step 4:
Remove the air
filter-to-engine
connections
-
earlier type illus-
trated. (There are
some hose
connections
underneath on
the later type,
mounted on top
of the engine.) Disconnect the electrical connection and all
other hoses from the filter housing.
• Step 11:
Remove the buttons
(gearbox side,
arrowed) fixing the
dust shield to the
wheel arch on each
side.
Job 17. Diesel engine.
Valve clearances - adjustment.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! After carrying out Job 16,
valve clearance measurement and adjustment is now
needed. Both measurement and shim replacement are
carried out in the same manner as for the petrol engine
(.Job
7), so refer to this and also to Chapter 3, Facts
and Figures for specifications. B
Job 18. Diesel engine - removal.
moving parts with engine oil during assembly. See Chapter 3,
Facts
and Figures for specified tightening torques.
luei suppiy diiu leium pipe;>
at the injection pump...
• Step 9: ...and the stop
control supply cable. Also
disconnect the cable from
the injection pump hydraulic
advance control sensor and
the alternator cables.
• Step 10:
Disconnect the oil
feed and return
pipes between the
thermostatic valve
and the radiator
and tie clear.
I
This should
be read in connection with Job 8
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! • The turbo and non-turbo
diesel engines are essentially similar.
• The under-bonnet scene is in some ways different
because of the extra plumbing required when a turbo is
fitted.
• Locations and shapes of various items may differ, or
not exist at all on the non-turbo unit.
• As most complexity is found with the turbo engine,
I
the
following illustrations are mainly of this version.
• The power units are removed from under the car,
therefore make sure you can raise the car enough to
achieve this. Support the car firmly and safely on axle
stands. D
Q Step 1: Disconnect the negative lead from the battery
and drain
the cooling system. Q Step 2: Remove the bonnet lid.
• Step 3: Drain the transmission oil.
Q Step 4: Disconnect and remove all pipes and hoses.
Q Step 5: Undo all electrical connection and label them
with masking
tape. Write matching numbers on each male
and female
connection to assist reconnection, later.
Q Step 6: Disconnect the power steering pump pipes
(where fitted),
catching any spilt fluid and tie them clear. See
Job 14.
• Step 7: Part the
connection for the
electronic
speedometer
magnetic impulse
generator
(when fitted).
Q Step 11: Disconnect the clutch cable, adjacent earth lead
and reversing light switch other cable connection from the top
of the gearbox.
• Step 12: Disconnect the leads from the oil pressure
warning light from the oil filter mounting, and the oil level
warning light switch.
• Step 13: From under the car, remove the exhaust front
section from the manifold and from its support brackets.
O Step 14: Remove the front road wheels and the access
panel from each wheel housing.
• Step 15: Remove the brake pad wear sensor cables,
when fitted.
Q Step 16A: On the turbo version, undo the six 'Allen'
screws securing the inboard end of each drive-shaft. Undo the
two pinch bolts that fix each stub axle to the suspension struts
and pull them clear. Ease the drive-shafts clear of the trans-
mission casing
-
take care
not to
damage the
protective
boots.
• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on
axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring
from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and
unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from
the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering
arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo
the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,
pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just
taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With
the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen
the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity
joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force
to be
tightened or
released (see
Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if
you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14
extend their life by fitting new seals, when necessary. Note that
you will need to use internal circlip pliers to remove the circlip
from the pushrod on the master cylinder in order to dismantle it.
When you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic system, follow
the procedure described for brake bleeding in PART H:
BRAKES, Job 17. Because the circuit is far simpler, the
procedure itself is likely to be both simpler and quicker to carry
out. Note that the bleed screw (f) is normally covered by a cap
(e) which must be removed before the bleed screw can be
slackened.
PART C: COOLING SYSTEM
PART C: Contents - ' B SI s |§w ^ - -
-
silt Job 1: Component positions. Job 4. Thermostat
-
replacement.
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan
-
replacement. Job 5. Coolant pump
-
replacement.
Job 3. Thermostatic switch
-
testing and replacing.
Job 1. Component positions.
1 - bottom hose - radiator to pump 2 - top, hose - radiator to thermostat 3 - radiator
4 - thermostat 5
-
water pump 6 - thermostatic switch 7 - cooling fan
Type 1
1 - expansion tank 2 - hose, tank to pump 3 - bottom hose, radiator to thermostat 4 - top hose, thermostat to radiator 5 - hose, radiator to expansion tank
6 - thermostat/housing assembly 7 - delivery pipe, thermostat to pump 8
-
water pump 9 - cooling fan 10
-
thermostatic switch 11 - radiator core Type 2
Type 2: ...and these the diesel engine's components. Type 1: These are the components of the petrol engine
cooling system...
Job 2. Radiator and cooling fan -
replacement.
• Step 1: Unplug the electrical connections from the fan
motor and thermostatic switch.
• Step 2: Drain the cooling system and disconnect all
hoses from the radiator.
Q Step 3: Undo the mounting bolts and remove the
radiator/fan assembly from the car.
• Step 4: Undo the fan
mounting fixing bolts and
remove the complete
assembly from the radiator.
Also see illustration Type 1
(petrol), or Type 2
(diesel).
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse
order.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The fan assembly can be
removed from the car without disturbing the radiator if
required. New fan units are supplied by FIAT complete
with the mounting bracket, ready to bolt on. D
Job 3. Thermostatic switch -
testing and replacing.
• Step 1: The thermostatic switch which controls the fan is
located in the radiator header tank. See illustration Type
1,
part 6 (petrol), or Type 2, part
10
(diesel) .
• Step 2: To remove, drain the cooling system, disconnect
the switch and unscrew it from the radiator.
• Step 3: H INSIDE INFORMATION! Test the switch
using a test bulb and two leads. Connect one to a
battery terminal and the other to one of the switch
terminals. Now connect a wire between the remaining
switch and battery terminal. (9
Job 2. Ignition coil - replacement.
ALL 1.4 MODELS AND 1.6 MODELS UP TO 1993
Q Step 1: Locate the coil (2) next to
the battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On 1.6 models
from 1993 with SPI Monomotronic
fuel injection, the high tension coil
is integral with the distributor.
• Step 2: Make sure the ignition is
switched off and disconnect all LT (the
smaller, low tension) wires from the
coil, making note of their locations for
refitting.
• Step 3: Unplug the HT (the
thicker, high tension) lead to the
distributor at the coil end. Undo the
mountings and remove the coil.
• Step 4: Mount the new coil, remake all connections
correctly and firmly.
Job 3. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.4 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.4. LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
This system is of the BREAKERLESS
INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE type (2nd gener-
ation) and employs a distributor looking
much like those used on older cars, still
having an internal centrifugal advance mechanism, a vacuum
advance mechanism (3),
but NO contact breaker
points - an electronic
control module (2)
instead. This means that
once set, the timing
cannot alter through
points gap fluctuation.
Maintenance is also
reduced to a minimum,
the main requirements
being to keep the unit
clean and dry.
l_) Step 1: Locate the distributor (see illustration Job1-2A,
part a) which is mounted on the forward facing side of the
engine block, close to the timing belt cover.
I—] Step 2: Remove the distributor cap and leads.
Q Step 3: Disconnect the (thinner) low tension lead, undo
the distributor base clamp and withdraw the distributor.
Q Step 4: Turn
the engine until
the crankshaft
pulley timing
mark is aligned
with the '0' (TDC)
mark on the
timing belt cover
(a) and the marks
seen through the
timing belt
window (b), also
line up.
• Step S: If the
marks
seen through the window
do not align
-
turn the
engine another complete revolution and they will.
• Step 6: Refit the distributor with the centre of the rotor
contact pointing 180 degrees away from (in other words,
exactly opposite) the reference mark on the distributor dust
cover.
Q Step 7: Refit the distributor cap and remake all connec-
tions. Leave the vacuum pipe disconnected but plug the end
of the pipe.
Q Step 8: Refit the base clamp but leave just loose enough
to allow the distributor to turn.
Q Step 9: Connect a stroboscopic timing light and start the
engine. Run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Step 10:
Rotate the
distributor body
the required
amount in either
direction to align
the pulley timing
mark with the 10
degree BTDC
mark on the
timing belt cover
• Step 11: Remove the timing light, unplug and reconnect
the vacuum pipe.
Job 4. Distributor - removal and
refitting (1.6 litre engine).
FACT FILE: 1.6 LITRE ENGINE
DISTRIBUTOR
The DIGIPLEX 2 ALL ELECTRONIC (2nd
generation) IGNITION system used on the
1.6 litre engine is of advanced design and
requires no maintenance. Because there is no
mechanical wear, the advance curves remain constant during
the life of the unit. Inaccuracies due to wear or vibration are
eliminated. The high spark intensity is constant, even with a
low battery when starting, and at high RPM.
and lock the distributor base clamp.
SAFETY FIRST!
Step 1: Take note of the location and identification of the
main
components:
Q Step 2: Before starting to remove the unit, unplug all of
the
distributor cap
HT
leads.
M | The TDC and RPM sensor (illustration Job 4-
1, part 4) is correctly positioned during
production and its (adjustable) mounting
plate should not be moved. (In fact, the sensor can be
removed from and refitted to the mounting plate - only the
latter is adjustable.) To prevent the plate from being moved
accidentally, one of the bolts holding the mounting plate to
the engine is of the 'shear' type and has no flats. If there is a
need to adjust the sensor mounting plate, special FIAT tool
1895898000 is required and this then becomes a job for your
FIAT dealer, who will also replace the shear bolt.
• Step 8: FACT FILE: TOP DEAD
CENTRE/RPM SENSOR
PRECAUTIONS -
To be taken when working on a car
with this system:
i) - Never
attempt to start the car with poor battery
connections.
ii) - Do
not use a fast charger to start the engine.
iii) -
Don't disconnect the battery while the engine is
running.
iv) -
Before fast charging
-
disconnect the battery.
vj - Remove
the ECU (electronic control unit) before
putting
the car in a bodyshop paint oven over
80
degrees Celsius.
vi) -
Make sure the ignition is OFF before plugging in
or unplugging
the ECU multi-plug.
vii) -
When electric welding
-
disconnect the battery.
Q Step 5: Turn the engine so that No. 4 piston is at TDC
(compression stroke). See Chapter
5,
Servicing Your Car,
Job 25 Refit the distributor in the reverse order of removal1
with the nuts just loose enough to allow ration of the
distributor body.
• Step 6: E3 INSIDE INFORMATION! At this point a FIAT
agent would fit tool No.1895896000 (1) to the distributor
body and rotate it until the centre of the rotor arm (2) is
aligned with the '0' reference mark on the tool. If such a
tool is not for hire, exactly align the two halves of the
previously scribed mark. This will do the same job
providing the distributor was correctly positioned in the
first place! Tighten the securing nuts. Q
• Step 7: Refit the distributor cap and HT leads.
Job S. Electronic ignition.
FACT FILE: BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE AND DIGIPLEX 2 ALL
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS
Unfortunately, it is not possible to check
either of the two systems described in this
manual without the use of the correct FIAT
diagnostic equipment. If your engine is malfunctioning and
you suspect the ignition, ask your FIAT agent to check it.
109
• Step 3:
Paint a
mark
across
the
distributor
mounting and
spacer lug
to
retain
the exact
positioning when
refitting. Note
the position
of
the rotor,
undo
the three
distributor securing nuts. Remove the vacuum pipe
from the
stub (arrowed). Withdraw the distributor.
• Step 4: If
the
mounting
spacer
is
removed, make
sure
it
is
refitted
with the
recess
(arrowed) facing
downwards.
PART E: ELECTRICAL ARID INSTRUMENTS
PART E: Contents
Job 1. Alternator
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear light cluster
-
replacement.
Job 2. Starter motor
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Side repeater indicators
-
replacement.
Job 3. Instrument panel
-
removal and refitting. Job 12. Number plate light
-
replacement.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
-
replacement. Job 13. Interior/courtesy light
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 14. Fuel gauge sender unit
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor
-
replacement. Job 15. Central locking
-
replacement of components.
Job 7. Windscreen washer pump
-
replacement. Job 16. Electric windows
-
replacement of components.
Job 8. Radio aerial
-
replacement. Job 17. Diesel engines. Glow plugs
-
checking and
Job 9. Headlight cluster
-
replacement. replacement.
Job 1. Alternator - removal
and refitting.
Job 3. Instrument panel -
removal and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
Q Step 2: Disconnect all the wires from the back of the
alternator
-
the main output wire is released by undoing its
securing nut. Slacken the bolt securing the inboard end of the
adjustment bar, undo and remove the bolt from the alternator
end of the bar. Slacken the drivebelt and remove it.
Q Step 3: On manual steering cars, unbolt and remove the
adjuster bracket from the cylinder block.
Q Step 4: Release the securing buttons and remove the
engine splash shield on power steering cars.
Q Step 5: Undo the nut from the long through bolt and
note the position of the washers. Support the alternator and
remove the bolt, then withdraw the alternator from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order and make sure your
electrical connections are sound. Adjust the drivebelt tension.
See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car
• Step 1: Disconnect
terminal.
• Step 2: Undo the
screws (arrowed) and
remove the speaker
cover (1).
Job 2. Starter motor - removal
and refitting.
• Step 1: Disconnect the battery earth lead.
• Step 2:
Undo and remove
all the electrical
connections (a)
from the starter
(b) and starter
solenoid (c).
Q Step 4: Refit in reverse order, ensuring that all connec-
tions are sound.
Q Step 5: Raise the instrument panel enough to unplug
the connectors from the rear. Disconnect the speedometer
drive (if non-electronic type) and remove the instrument
panel from the car.
Q Step 6: Refit in the reverse order and be sure that all
connections are properly made.
Job 4. Speedometer cable
replacement.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION! The cable comes in
two parts, joined in the middle by a connector (a). Q
• Step 2: Follow Job 3, Steps 1 to 3 Then, lift the
instrument panel
sufficiently so that
you can gain
access to the
cable.
^Jj
Job
4-1
the battery at the negative (earth)
• Step 3: Undo the
exposed screws that
secure the
instrument panel
(arrowed).
• Step 4: Slide
off the screw
cover
(2)
from
the other end of
the instrument
panel and
remove the two
screws found beneath it.
• Step 3:
Undo the three mounting bolts and the wiring harness bracket
from the top bolt and withdraw the starter.
Job 6. Hatchback wiper motor -
replacement.
• Step 3: Disconnect the drive cable from the back of
speedometer.
• Step 4: From under the bonnet, uncouple the two cable
halves
from the centre connector and withdraw the
speedometer section through the bulkhead.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the lower end of the cable from the
gearbox drive and remove it.
G Step 6: Follow the reverse procedure to refit the cable,
being
careful to run the cable as straight as possible, avoiding
sharp bends.
Job 5. Windscreen wiper motor -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Disconnect the battery negative (earth) terminal.
Q Step 2: Note the position of the wiper blades on the
screen. Remove the two windscreen wiper arms and then the
grille
cover.
Q Step 3: Unplug the electrical connector and undo the
four mounting screws (arrowed). Remove the complete
assembly.
Q Step 4: Uncouple the linkage rods from the motor
(arrowed).
Q Step 5: Remove the motor by undoing the three
mounting bolts.
Q Step 6: Note the location of
-
and wiring for
-
these
components.
Q Step 7: Refitting is the reverse of removal, but take care
to position
the wiper arms as you found them after first
making
sure the motor is 'parked'.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For a view of the headlight wiper
motor (where fitted) refer to Job 7. Step 3.
PART A: TIPO MODELS
• Step A1: This
is a view of the
components for
the Tipo rear
wiper.
• Step A2:
Undo the securing
nut and remove
the wiper arm.
• Step A3: Open the tailgate and pull the weather strip
away from the top of the interior trim panel.
• Step A4: Remove the five screws holding the trim in
place
-
three of these also secure the lock.
Q Step A5: Carefully lever out the trim fixing clips freeing
the trim. Unplug the wiring to the tailgate lock motor (if fitted)
and remove the lock/trim panel assembly.
• Step A6: Unplug the wires from the wiper motor, undo
the three screws holding the motor in place and remove the
motor assembly.
• Step A7: Check that the seal in the tailgate wiper shaft
hole is in good condition and then start refitting in reverse
order. Make sure the wiper motor is 'parked' before fitting the
arm and blade.
PART B: TEMPRA MODELS
• Step B1: This shows the layout of the Tempra rear wiper.
Q Step B2: Disconnect the
battery earth lead. Undo the
securing nut and remove the
wiper arm.
Q Step B3: Remove the
motor cover shield.
Q Step B4: Disconnect the
wiring plug and washer
tubing.
• Step B5: From outside,
undo and remove the wiper
shaft nut and retrieve the spacer/seal.