1988 FIAT TEMPRA battery

• Job 20. Check/adjust clutch. CABLE OPERATED CLUTCH
The clutch mechanism is self-adjusting, although the cable
linkage can stretch over a period of time and may need
adjustment. The adjuster is on top of the gearbox, reached
from inside the engine bay.
20C. 'Work' the clutch pedal
(X) a few times, pull back the
carpet from under the pedal,
then measure the full travel of
the pedal, which should be
between 140 and 150 mm.

/
\
/ \
/ u / Xl
1 ' ' / . V y 2
Jdi V 1 \
X. 1 —

20C
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
20B. Check the
pipework and slave
cylinder, on the
gearbox casing,
from beneath the
20D. If not, note that after
slackening the locknut, turning
the adjusting nut inwards
along the threaded rod
(arrowed) will increase pedal
travel. Tighten the lock-nut
against the inner nut after
adjustment.
• Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector cable.
It should only be possible to start the engine when the gear
selector is in the 'P' or 'N' position. Place it in each of the
other positions and try to start the car. If it starts, the fault
must be put right! Also check that, with the ignition off and
the selector lever in 'D' (Drive), 'L' (Low), 'R' (Reverse) or 'N'
(Neutral), the timed warning buzzer should sound. If it
doesn't, the selector cable adjustment may be faulty.
See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART B:
TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH, Job 8 for adjustment details.
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
See FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY on page 36
SAFETY FIRST!
• You may minimise the risk of shock when the engine is running by wearing thick rubber gloves and by NEVER
working on the system in damp weather or when standing on damp ground. Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before
carrying out any work on the ignition system.
• ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS INVOLVE VERY HIGH VOLTAGES! All manufacturers recommend that only trained
personnel should go near the high-tension circuit (coil, distributor and HT wiring) and it is ESSENTIAL that anyone
wearing a medical pacemaker device does not go near the ignition system.
• Stroboscopic timing requires the engine to be running
-
take great care that parts of the timing light or parts of
you don't get caught up in moving components!
• Don't have loose clothing or hair.
46
FACT FILE: CABLE OR HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH?
• Most earlier Tipos and Tempras had a
cable-operated clutch, while later ones
are hydraulic.
• 2 OA. You
can easily tell
which system
your car is
fitted with.
The hydraulic
pipe (if fitted)
runs almost
horizontally,
across the
back of the engine bay.
• There is no separate clutch fluid reservoir
-
it shares
the brake fluid reservoir.
• Clutch cables (when fitted) are inclined to break
without warning.
• It pays to keep the operating mechanism well lubri-
cated and renew the cable every few years.
car. If the pipe
appears cracked,
replace it. If the
slave cylinder
oozes fluid, replace
it, in both cases bleeding the system. See Chapter
6,
Repairs
and Replacements.

• Job 25. Check ignition timing.
_ FACT FILE: IGNITION SYSTEM TYPES
Two different types of electronic ignition
systems have been fitted to the petrol
engines covered by this manual.
The earlier Breakerless Inductive Discharge System can
be adjusted. Its distributor is fitted as shown in illus-
tration 25A.
The later, Digiplex 2 system, has an integrated ignition
and fuel injection control system and any checks and
adjustments will need to be carried out by your FIAT
dealership with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
See Job 28.
MAGNETI MARELLI BREAKERLESS INDUCTIVE
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
CHECK VACUUM AND MECHANICAL ADVANCE SYSTEMS
25A. This is the
location of the break-
erless electronic
ignition components in
the car. The distributor
(1) is fitted to the front
of the block while the
ignition coil
(2)
is
alongside the battery.
25B. This type of distributor can be
identified by the electronic ignition
control module (a) and the vacuum
advance unit (b), not fitted to other
ignition types.
• the engine must be at
ature.
• the idle speed/mixture/CO adjustments must be correct

-
see Job 35.
• Start the engine and run it at between 750 and 850 rpm.
• Point the timing light at the crankshaft pulley timing mark
and ensure that the mark lines up with the 10 degrees Before
Top Dead Centre (BTDC) mark on the timing belt cover.
• If the reading is 'out' stop the engine and slacken the clamp
nut on the distributor so that the distributor can just be turned
with firm hand pressure.
• Turn the distributor a very small amount, restart the engine
and check again.
• Repeat the procedure until, with the engine running, the
crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the 10 degree
BTDC mark. Then tighten the nut securing the distributor to
the engine block.
You can now check the vacuum advance system as follows:
• increase the engine speed to approximately 2,000 rpm and,
with the timing light pointed at the timing marks, make a
mental note of the position of the mark on the crankshaft
pulley in relation to the timing belt cover. If the position is no
further advanced than 10 degrees BTDC, the mechanical
advance system inside the distributor is probably seized.
• stop the engine, reconnect the vacuum advance pipe and
repeat the procedure.
• you should see a further amount of advance taking place
and if not, the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance
mechanism is probably punctured.
• if either or both of these faults have occurred, your engine
will run uneconomical^ and inefficiently and it may pay you to
fit a new distributor.
MAGNETI MARELLI DIGIPLEX 2 ELECTRONIC
IGNITION
25D. This is the layout of the Digiplex ignition system, viewed
from over the engine looking towards the left-side of the car.
The ignition coil (1) is adjacent to the battery. The electronic
control unit (2) is nearer to the engine bay sidewall. The
distributor (3) is mounted on the end of the cylinder head and
the rpm and Top Dead Centre (TDC) sensor (4) is located on
the crankshaft cover on the flywheel side.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before
checking the ignition timing,
you must be certain that:
• the pipe from the distributor
vacuum unit is disconnected
from the distributor and plugged.
its normal operating temper-
instructions. The
timing light should
always be connected
to No.
1
spark plug
lead
-
the one nearest
the timing belt end of
the engine.
48
25C. To check the ignition timing, connect up a stroboscopic
lamp, either as shown on the inset or in accordance with the
manufacturer's

28C. With very latest
'distributorless' system,
disconnect the multi-plug
from the base of the 'black
box'.
28D. With the two earlier
systems, disconnect the
multi-plug leading to the
distributor/control unit
from the ignition coil
behind the battery.
FACT FILE: CRANKING AN ENGINE
WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION
Severe damage can be
caused to the ignition
system if the engine is
cranked with plugs/leads
removed
-
and a severe
electric shock can be
experienced.
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
SAFETY FIRST!

Always
wear impervious gloves so that fuel cannot

come
in contact with your
skin.
It can induce cancer.
Q Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks.
Check the fuel lines from the fuel tank and into the engine
compartment, looking for signs of chafing, splits and perishing

of the
rubber and plastic parts. Ensure any worm-drive hose

clips used
on the connections are firm and secure.
Q Job 30. Change petrol air filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If the HC reading when measured at
the end of the exhaust pipe is outside of the recom-
mended limit while that measured upstream of the
catalytic converter is OK, the cat. is almost certainly
faulty. Have it double-checked by your dealer before
replacing it
-
an expensive component!
30C. Pull on the
tabs
-
and watch
that the springs
don't fall on the
floor as you release
the catches!
30D. Lower the
filter cover and lift
out the filter
element.
31B. If you want to
take the cover right
off, you will have to
unscrew the air
hose clamp
(arrowed). Remove
and replace the
filter element (A).
• Job 31.
Change diesel
air filter.
31A. Take out the
four screws
(arrowed) and lift
off the cover (B). 30B. ...and release

the two
fasteners

(a) and the
two

spring clips
(b).
30A. Unscrew the

two
screws
(arrowed)...
51

• Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter. IMPORTANT NOTES:
• Wear plastic gloves and goggles and have a large rag
and a suitable fire extinguisher ready.
• Place a container beneath the filter to catch fuel
spillage.
• After fitting the new filter in place, refit the casing,
ensure no traces of fuel are left, reconnect the battery and
restart the engine.
• Check carefully to ensure there are no leaks before
refitting the cover.
• Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Some models are fitted with a water-
in-fuel sensor. Drain the filter when the warning light
comes on. Unplug the sensor from the base of the filter,
first.
FUEL INJECTION
MODELS
32A. The filter is under the
car, ahead of the fuel tank.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION:
Remove the visible screws
holding the flexible
plastic cover in place.
You can now pull the
front down and out of
the way. E3
32B. Undo the clamp,
remove the outer
casing and renew the
special paper filter,
from your FIAT
dealership. There is
an arrow on the
casing to remind you
which way round it
must be fitted.
33. The fuel filter is
located in the rear of
the engine
compartment. Water
carried in the fuel
accumulates in the
bottom of the filter,
and should not be
allowed to build up.
To drain it position a receptacle under the filter, then unscrew
the knurled tap at the bottom of the filter by a couple of turns.
Do so at the recommended interval, or if the panel indicator
comes on. (See Chapter
2,
Getting to Know Your
Car.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Plastic fuel pipes become
brittle and snap. Extra care needed! E3
SAFETY FIRST!
• The high pressure pipework on a fuel injection
system can retain its pressure for days even after the
engine has been switched off.
• When you disconnect the pipework, a jet of fuel can
be emitted under very high pressure
-
strong enough
to penetrate the skin or damage the eyes.
• NEVER work on the fuel pipework when the engine
is running (except when bleeding Diesel injectors).
• ALWAYS place a rag over a union while it is being
undone until all the pressure has been let out of the
system.
• You are recommended to wear strong rubber gloves
and goggles when disconnecting the fuel injection
system's high pressure pipework. Always disconnect
VERY slowly, letting pressure out progressively.
• See Chapter 6, PART F: Job 8 for details of how to
depressurise the system.
• Disconnect the battery negative earth before
working on the fuel system.
• Work outdoors and away from sources of flame or
ignition.
• ALWAYS wear rubber gloves
-
don't let your
skin

come into contact with fuel.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All Tipo/Tempra diesel engines are
self-bleeding and there should be no need to bleed air
out of the system manually.
• Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter.
Drain the fuel filter. Unscrew the complete filter canister from
its head, in the same way that you would an engine oil filter.
First undip the sensor plug (if fitted) from the base of the unit.
^ 34A. If it is too tight to
^^ - unscrew by hand, use an oil
filter wrench on the lower,
flatted zone (C). Wipe the underside of the filter head,
fill the new filter
with fuel...
34B. ...lightly
lubricate its seal
with fuel, then
screw it onto the
filter head. Once it
is 'nipped up',
tighten it as far as
possible by hand,
without
'murdering' it
-
so
that you CAN
remove it next
time!

49H. ...and push out the nylon bush (arrowed). Reassemble
on the new pad and reattach the wire.
IMPORTANT NOTE: After fitting the pads, apply the
brakes firmly several times to adjust them.
• Job 50. Check rear brakes.
SAFETY FIRST!
Read SAFETY FIRST at the start of Job 49 before
proceeding!
GENERAL. The majority of Tipo/Tempra models are fitted with
rear drum-type rear brakes, but models with ABS anti-lock
braking have a disc-and-caliper arrangement instead.
Slacken the wheel bolts, raise the wheel, remove it and
support the car with an axle stand. Make sure that the wheels
remaining on the ground are chocked in both directions and
that the handbrake is off.
DRUM REAR BRAKES
If the drum
sticks,
try:
• screwing a pair of
bolts

into the two threaded
holes in the drum. Evenly
tightening the bolts will force the drum off the
shoes.

• tapping carefully around the drum with a hide
mallet to help loosen it.
s Vn order to fit new pads,
r> - the caliper piston must be
pushed back into the bore.
• Use an old battery hydrometer to draw about half
of the fluid from the master cylinder.
• Push the piston back into the caliper, using a G-
clamp.
• Keep an eye on the master cylinder so that it
doesn't overflow as fluid is pushed back up the pipe.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Be very sparing or grease could
migrate to the friction linings!
WEAR SENSORS I I There are certain essential checks you
should carry out for yourself, with brake
pads removed:
• Look for any obvious grooves worn into the disc.
Slight undulations are acceptable, but anything worse
and the disc should be replaced.
• Look and feel for any wear-ridge on the outer edges
of the disc. The depth will give an indication of wear.
• Check for corrosion of the disc surface. If any is
found, the brake caliper is probably faulty, and needs
checking.
• If any surface flaking is found on either side of the
disc, replace them both.
• If you are not certain whether any wear is acceptable,
ask your specialist or FIAT dealer to check.
FACT FILE: BRAKE DISC WEAR
SYMPTOMS
Before reassembling the brake, check the condition of the
brake caliper. Have an assistant VERY SLOWLY AND GENTLY
apply pressure to the brake pedal while you watch the piston
(see illustration 49B, part
8),
which should move outwards. If
it doesn't easily move, it is seized and the caliper should be
replaced. DO NOT allow the piston to project more than 10
mm or it may be forced from the caliper
-
use a G-clamp as an
'end stop'.
49F. Before
fitting the pads,
put a light smear
of brake grease
(NOT ordinary
grease) on the
pads' metal
backplates at the
points shown.
49G. If these are fitted, the contact has to be transferred from
the old backing plate to the new. Pull off the wire, push out
the brass pin...
49E. Check inside
the caliper housing
for signs of
corrosion. If any is
found, or the seal is
damaged, the caliper
should be exchanged
for a new or
overhauled unit from
your FIAT dealership.
Examine the piston's protective gaiter (see illustration 49B,
part 9) for splitting and fluid leaks. This one is in poor
condition and the caliper requires immediate replacement.

PART A: ENGINE
PART A: Contents
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and Job 12. Petrol engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
adjustment. Job 13. Diesel engine. Timing belt
-
replacement and
Job 2. Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
removal. adjustment. •
Job 3. Petrol engine. Cylinder head and camshaft housing -Job 14. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
removal.
refitting. Job 15. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
refitting.
Job
4.
Petrol engine. Cylinder head
-
dismantling and Job 16. Diesel engine. Cylinder head
-
overhaul.
overhauling. Job 17. Diesel engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment.
Job 5. Petrol engine
-
dismantling. Job 18. Diesel engine
-
removal.
Job
6.
Petrol engine
-
checking and reassembly. Job 19. Diesel engine
-
refitting.
Job
7.
Petrol engine. Valve clearances
-
adjustment. Job 20. Diesel engine. Mountings
-
replacement.
Job 8. Petrol engine/transmission
-
removal. Job 21. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

Job
9.
Petrol engine/transmission
-
refitting. separation.
Job 10. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 22. Diesel engine/transmission (removed from car)
-

separation. reconnection.
Job 11. Petrol engine/transmission (removed from car)
-
Job 23. Diesel engine
-
dismantling.
reconnection. Job 24. Diesel engine
-
reassembly.
Job 1. Petrol engine. Timing belt
- replacement and adjustment.
Mi*^^ Zc+sc, / • The crankshaft pulley nut
n^^ will be difficult to turn.
• If the engine is in the car,
engage a gear (or 'Park' in the case of an automatic)
and have an assistant hold the footbrake down very
firmly. This will stop the engine from turning.
• Alternatively, with the starter motor removed, you
can have a helper prevent the flywheel ring gear from
turning with a large screwdriver.
• Step 4: Before removing the belt, put the pulley nut back
onto the crankshaft, take the car out of gear (if the engine is
still in the car) and remove the spark plugs. You can now turn
the engine in a clockwise direction using the refitted crank
pulley nut
-
without the pulley, of course!
• Step 5A: With
the timing belt still in
place, turn the engine
so that the timing
mark on the camshaft
sprocket lines up with
the one on the front
cover. On some
engines, the front
cover looks like this...
• Step 5B:
...while on the
majority, it looks
like this. The top
part of the cover
backplate slides
out so that the
plastic pip is level
with the camshaft
sprocket. Turn
the sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket lines up
with this pip.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is false economy to refit a used
timing belt. If the belt breaks, it will cause complete
engine failure so always fit a new one.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the battery

and
remove the
alternator drivebelt as
described in PART C:

COOLING
SYSTEM
0 Step 2: Take off

the timing
belt cover.

This is held
by a total

of
four bolts (arrowed).
• Step 3: Take off

the
crankshaft pulley

nut and
remove the
pulley.

SAFETY FIRST! • Step 7:
Disconnect the
electrical leads from
the following: the
inlet manifold
• Step 2: Disconnect both battery leads, negative
terminal first.
Q Step 3: Drain the cooling system and depressurise the
fuel system, if yours is a fuel injection engine
-
see PART
F:

FUEL AND EXHAUST
• Step 6B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable (a),
the idle speed check
actuator (b) and the
injector supply (c).
• Step 8: Detach
the exhaust
downpipe from the
manifold.
• Step 9: Remove
the dipstick
(arrowed) and the
cylinder head
coolant temperature
sensor (arrowed).
• Step 10: Also remove all the HT leads (along with the
distributor cap). Place them to one side.
• Step 11: Undo the brake servo hose from the manifold.
Q Step 4: Remove the air cleaner by releasing the spring
clips (a) at the front of the unit and the screw on the top face
(b) and disconnect the hoses
Remove the oil vapour
recovery pipe clips from beneath the rear of the housing, once
it is free to lift up.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the
cylinder head and the inlet tract or the SPI injector unit, as
appropriate and blank off with a bolt of suitable size.
• Step 6A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES.
Disconnect the
engine end of the
accelerator cable
from its idler and
the choke cable
from its mounting.
Q Step 12: Remove the
water hoses connected to
the inlet manifold and
thermostat.
• Step 13 A:
CARBURETTOR
ENGINES. Disconnect the
fuel pipe from the carbu-
rettor and both pipes
from the fuel pump.
(Label both the pipes and
stubs so that they will be
reconnected the
right way round.)
• Step 13B:
INJECTION
ENGINES.
Disconnect the fuel
supply and return
hoses from the
injector unit housing
(a). Plug the ends.
• Step 14A: CARBURETTOR ENGINES. Disconnect the
distributor vacuum pipe and oil vapour pipes from the carbu-
rettor.
vacuum sensor
(arrowed), the
manifold coolant
temperature sensors
(arrowed) and the
throttle position
switch and any
other leads which your engine may have.

• Step 30: Fit
the crankshaft
pulley and
tighten. See
Chapter 3,
Facts and
Figures.
• Step 31: Fit the
water pump and
distribution pipe.
• Step 32A: Refit the
flywheel. Do not unbolt the
TDC sensor (1) from the oil seal
housing at its mounting plate
bolts
(2)
unless it is essential to
do so.
• Step 32B: If
the sensor
mounting plate has
to be disturbed, you
will need the FIAT
special tool illus-
trated here (inset) in
order to reposition it
correctly. Position
the timing mark on
the crankshaft
pulley with the zero
degrees mark on the outer timing belt cover (and double
check that the timing mark on the flywheel
-
rubber bung
removed
-
is aligned at zero degrees).
With the bracket fitted to the oil seal housing, fit the FIAT
special tool onto the bracket in place of the sensor with a slot
in the tool fitting exactly over the TDC pin on the flywheel.
When everything is lined up, position the bracket accurately
and tighten the bolts. Remove the tool and refit the sensor.
IMPORTANT NOTE: During assembly, a shear-bolt will
have been fitted to prevent accidental movement of the
bracket. If you need to undo it, you will need to drill it
out and you should replace it with a new one obtained
from your FIAT dealership.
• Step 33: Refit the clutch. See PARTB: TRANSMISSION,
Job 4.
Q Step 34: Refit the fuel pump and pushrod using new
gaskets on both sides of the spacer block, 0.3 mm thick
between the spacer and the engine and 0.7 mm between the
spacer and the pump. See PART F: FUEL AND EXHAUST for
information on setting the pump position.
• Step 35:
Lubricate the sealing
ring and screw on a
new oil filter.
• Step 36:
Before refitting the
distributor, (see
PART D: IGNITION)
refit, if necessary,
the oil pump drive
gear.
• Step 37: Refit
all remaining
auxiliary compo-
nents (including the
oil vapour recovery
device, shown here),
using new gaskets
as necessary and
referring to
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures for the
torque settings.
Q Step 38: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job 11.
Q Step 39: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
9.

• Step 40: fl INSIDE INFORMATION! Before fitting the
spark plugs and with a fully charged battery, turn the
engine on the starter until the oil warning light goes
out. This primes the lubrication system and gives more
immediate oil pressure on initial start up after overhaul-
a critical time in the life of an engine. B
• Step 41: Fit the spark plugs and start the engine
-
this
might take a few seconds more than normal on the initial start
up.
• Step 42: Allow the engine to warm up on fast idle
until
it
reaches working temperature and then slow it down to its
normal speed (if adjustable
-
see PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST)