1985 FORD GRANADA key

4Slacken the crankshaft pulley bolt. Prevent
the crankshaft from turning by engaging top
gear (manual gearbox only) and having an
assistant press the brake pedal hard, or by
removing the starter motor and jamming the
ring gear teeth with a lever.
5Unscrew the bolt part way, and use a
suitable legged-puller to draw the crankshaft
pulley off the crankshaft. The legs of the puller
must be suitably shaped to enable them to
rest on the metal surfaces of the pulley.Note:
Do not attempt to remove the pulley with a
puller whose legs contact the rubber surface
of the pulley(see illustrations). Note that a
new crankshaft pulley retaining bolt will be
required for refitting.
6Loosen the alternator lower mountingthrough-bolt, then remove the alternator upper
mounting bolt, and swing the alternator away
from the engine.
7Unscrew the central securing bolt, and
withdraw the drivebelt tensioner assembly.
8Unscrew the eleven securing bolts, and
remove the lower timing chain cover. Remove
the rubber gasket and discard it; a new one
must be used on refitting.
9Using a suitable Torx socket, unscrew the
securing screw, and carefully withdraw the oil
pump chain tensioner (see illustration).
10Unscrew the Torx type securing bolt, and
withdraw the oil pump sprocket, complete
with the oil pump drive chain.
11Unscrew the two Torx bolts securing the
lower timing chain guide, noting theirlocations, and withdraw the timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case (see
illustrations).
12Remove the Woodruff key from the end of
the crankshaft, prising it free with a
screwdriver if necessary, then slide the double
chain sprocket from the end of the crankshaft,
and lift the chain from the sprocket(see
illustration).
13Withdraw the timing chain through the top
of the timing case and, where applicable,
remove the cable-tie from the chain (see
illustration).
14The timing chain, sprockets and tensioner
can now be examined for wear and damage.
15Commence refitting as follows. Note that
coppered links are provided in the timing
chain to assist with refitting, but these can be
difficult to see on a chain which has already
been in service. If possible, position the
coppered links as described during the
following procedure. If the coppered links are
not visible, the chain should still be refitted as
described, but ignore the references to the
coppered links.
16Make sure that the slot for the Woodruff
key in the end of the crankshaft is pointing
vertically downwards. If necessary,
temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley bolt in
order to turn the crankshaft to the required
position.
17Lower the timing chain into the timing
case from above, with the single coppered link
at the bottom. If desired, use a cable-tie to
DOHCengine 2B•9
2B
15.5a Using a puller to remove the
crankshaft pulley (viewed from underneath
vehicle)15.5b Position the legs of the puller on the
metal surfaces of the pulley (A), not the
rubber surface (B)15.9 Oil pump chain tensioner securing
screw (arrowed)
15.12 Sliding the double chain sprocket
from the end of the crankshaft
15.11a Lower timing chain guide upper
securing bolt (arrowed)
15.13 Withdrawing the timing chain through
the top of the timing case
15.11b Lower timing chain guide lower
securing bolt (arrowed)
15.11c Withdrawing the lower timing chain
guide
procarmanuals.com

prevent the chain from dropping into the
timing case, as during removal.
18Locate the double chain sprocket loosely
over the end of the crankshaft (larger sprocket
nearest the crankcase), with the timing mark
pointing vertically down.
19Fit the chain over the inner, larger
sprocket, aligning the coppered link in the
chain with the timing mark on the sprocket
(see illustration).
20Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide lower securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound.
21Introduce the lower timing chain guide
through the top of the timing case,
manipulating the chain around the guide as
necessary, then fit the chain guide lower
securing bolt and tighten it finger-tight.
22Push the double chain sprocket onto the
crankshaft, engaging the notch in the sprocket
with the groove in the end of the crankshaft.
23Proceed as described in paragraphs 34 to 42
of Section 18, but when fitting the chain over the
camshaft sprockets, align the timing mark on
each sprocket between the two corresponding
coppered links in the chain.
24Coat the threads of the lower timing chain
guide upper securing bolt with a suitable
thread-locking compound, then fit the bolt and
tighten it finger-tight.
25Proceed as described in paragraphs 43 to 46
of Section 18.
26Tighten the two chain guide securing bolts
to the specified torque.
27Proceed as described in paragraphs 47 to 55
of Section 18.
28Fit the oil pump drive chain around the
outer crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump
sprocket, then refit the oil pump sprocket, and
tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque. If necessary, a screwdriver can be
inserted through one of the holes in the
sprocket to prevent it from turning as the
securing bolt is tightened.
29Refit the oil pump drive chain tensioner,
and tighten the securing bolt to the specified
torque.
30Refit the Woodruff key to the end of the
crankshaft.
31Inspect the oil seal in the lower timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Note that the oil
seal should be fitted dry. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover (see
illustration).
32Fit the lower timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket (see illustration).
33Loosely refit the timing chain cover
securing bolts.
34Refit the crankshaft pulley to the end of the
crankshaft, and draw the pulley onto the
crankshaft using the original securing bolt, at the
same time centering the lower timing chain cover.
35With the lower timing chain cover
centralised, and the pulley fully home on the
crankshaft, remove the old securing bolt, then
fit a new bolt.
36Tighten the new crankshaft pulley bolt to
the specified torque, in the two stages given in
the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter. Prevent the crankshaft from turning
as during removal.
37Tighten the lower timing chain cover
securing bolts to the specified torque.
38Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly,
ensuring that the lug on the rear of the
tensioner bracket engages with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder block, and
tighten the securing bolt.39Swing the alternator into position to align
the upper mounting bolt hole with the
corresponding hole in the drivebelt tensioner
assembly, then refit the upper mounting bolt,
and tighten the upper bolt and the lower
through-bolt.
40Refit the water pump/alternator drivebelt.
41If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations described in paragraph 1 of
Section 15.
42Where applicable, refill the cooling
system.
1Examine all the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If the teeth are “hooked”
in appearance, renew the sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner plastic
sprocket for wear. If excessive wear is evident,
the complete tensioner assembly must be
renewed as the sprocket cannot be renewed
independently.Note that the tensioner plunger
assembly must be renewed whenever the
timing chain is removed.
3Examine the timing chain for wear. If the
chain has been in operation for a considerable
time, or if when held horizontally (rollers
vertical) it takes on a deeply bowed
appearance, renew it.
Note: The cylinder head must not be removed
when the engine is warm. Refer to the note at
the beginning of the following Section before
proceeding.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
3On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.
4Drain the cooling system.
5Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold (see illustration).
17Cylinder head - removal and
refitting (engine in vehicle)
16Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - examination and
renovation
2B•10DOHCengine
15.19 Coppered link in timing chain aligned
with crankshaft sprocket timing mark
(arrowed)
17.5 Disconnecting the heater coolant hose
from the inlet manifold
15.31 Fitting a new lower timing chain
cover oil seal15.32 Lower timing chain cover gasket in
position. Ensure that lug on gasket
engages with notch in cover (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

Other items
34Disconnect the throttle cable from the
operating lever and bracket.
35Disconnect the right-hand exhaust
downpipe from the manifold then remove the
starter motor, the oil filter, and disconnect the
left-hand exhaust downpipe, in that order.
Refer to Part A, Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 8
of this Chapter.
Cylinder head bolts on the V6 engine may
be conventional (hexagon-headed) or Torx
type. The appropriate Torx key will be needed
to deal with the latter.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillaries can be
removed. The actual items removed, and the
sequence of removal, will depend on the work
to be done.
Distributor and bracket
Spark plugs
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifolds
Clutch
Alternator and bracket
Oil pressure switch(see illustration) Temperature gauge sender
Engine bearer arms
Dipstick
If an oil cooler is fitted between the oil filter
and the block, remove it by disconnecting the
coolant hoses and unscrewing the central
sleeve. The cooler and seal can now be
removed. If the threaded bush is removed
from the block (it may come out with the
sleeve) it must be renewed.
The procedure is described for the engine in
the vehicle. With the engine removed, the
preliminary steps can be ignored.
2.8 litre engine
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the inlet manifold and associated
components.
3Unbolt the power steering pump, remove
the drivebelts and move the pump aside.
Support it by wiring it to adjacent
components.
4Remove the alternator and its bracket.
5Remove the three bolts which secure each
rocker shaft. Remove the shafts and
pushrods, keeping them in order so that they
can be refitted in the same locations.
6Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.
7Remove the spark plugs.8Slacken the cylinder head bolts half a turn at
a time, following the reverse sequence to that
used when tightening (see illustration 38.5).
Remove the bolts.
9Remove the cylinder heads. If they are
stuck, try to rock them free, or tap them with a
soft-faced hammer. Do nothit them directly
with a metal hammer, and do notlever in
between the joint faces.
10Recover the head gaskets.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
11Disconnect the battery and drain the
cooling system.
12Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the thermostat housing.
13Disconnect the air hoses from the throttle
valve housing (see illustration).
14Detach the two wiring plugs from the
airflow sensors (see illustrations).
15Pull the breather hose from the oil filler cap
(see illustration).
16Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
together with the airflow sensors and air hoses.
17Disconnect the hoses from the coolant
expansion tank.
18Disconnect the wiring from the following
components:
a)Alternator (right-hand cylinder head
removal only).
b)Coolant temperature sensors(see
illustration).
c)Idle speed control valve (see illustration).
d)Throttle valve potentiometer.
e)The fuel-injector wiring loom.8Cylinder heads - removal
7Ancillary components - removal
6Engine dismantling - general
2C•8V6 engines
7.1 The oil pressure switch is on the left-
hand side of the block
8.14b Throttle position sensor wiring plug
Vacuum nozzles arrowed
8.14a Front airflow sensor wiring plug
8.15 Oil filler breather hose (arrowed)8.18a Coolant temperature sensor location
8.13 Disconnecting the air hoses from the
throttle valve housing
procarmanuals.com

4Remove the auxiliary drivebelts.
5Remove the fan and viscous clutch if fitted).
6Jam the crankshaft, either by engaging 5th
gear and applying the handbrake, or by
removing the starter motor and having an
assistant jam a screwdriver in the starter ring
gear teeth. Unbolt the crankshaft pulley. When
the pulley is secured to a vibration damper,
also remove the damper central bolt.
7Remove the pulley or damper, using a puller
if necessary.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front
of the engine, including the water pump
bypass hose.
9Disconnect the heater connecting pipe from
the timing cover and unbolt the two clips
which secure the pipe to the cover of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
10If not already done, remove the starter motor.11Remove the sump.
12Remove the nine securing bolts and
remove the timing cover complete with water
pump and thermostat.
13Turn the crankshaft to bring the marks on
the timing gears into alignment as shown (see
illustration). Note that there are two marks on
the crankshaft gear - do not get them
confused.
14Remove the bolt which secures the
camshaft gear. It should now be possible to
remove the camshaft gear by hand.
15Draw off the crankshaft gear using a puller.
Recover the Woodruff keys if they are loose.
16Clean the old gasket off the timing cover
and the cylinder block. Remove the oil seal
from the timing cover.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
17Using the crankshaft damper centre bolt,
turn the engine until No 1 piston is at its firing
point (12°BTDC). This can be verified by
removing the distributor cap and checking that
the rotor arm is aligned with the No 1 HT lead
contact.
18Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
19Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
complete with air flow sensors and air hoses.
Remove the oil filler cap.
20Drain the cooling system, disconnect the
radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
21Disconnect the hose which runs between
the water pump and the expansion tank.
22Remove the radiator upper shroud, then
the radiator (see illustrations).
23Remove the fan from the water pump hub
noting that it has a left-hand thread.
24Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
timing cover/water pump hose stubs.
25Remove the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts (as applicable)
26Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
crankshaft pulley.
27Lock the crankshaft by jamming the starter
ring gear teeth, and unscrew the vibration
damper centre bolt. Withdraw the damper
from the front of the crankshaft. A puller will be
required for this, preferably one which has two
screws for the tapped holes provided (see
illustrations).
28Using an engine support bar or hoist, take
the weight of the engine then unscrew the nuts
2C•10V6 engines
10.9 Heater connecting pipe clip bolts
(arrowed)
10.27a Unscrewing the vibration damper
centre bolt
10.22b Removing radiator upper shroud10.22c Manoeuvre the radiator out from
under the vehicle
10.27b Using a puller to withdraw the
vibration damper10.28a Using an engine support bar to
support the engine
10.13 Camshaft and crankshaft gear marks
in alignment (engine inverted)
Disregard the other mark on the crankshaft gear10.22a Radiator upper shroud plastic clip
and centre pin
procarmanuals.com

from the top of the engine mounting brackets
(see illustrations).
29Drain the engine oil, retaining it for further
use only if it is not contaminated or due for
renewal.
30Unbolt the coolant distribution pipe bracket
from the timing cover (see illustration).
31Disconnect the leads and remove the
starter motor.
32Ensure that the front roadwheels and the
steering wheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the pinch-bolt from the
steering shaft coupling and slide the coupling
down the shaft (see illustration).
33Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts. The rear bolts can only be unscrewed
using a box spanner or thin-walled socket.
34Release the brake hydraulic lines from
their support brackets by pulling out their
retaining clips.
35Unscrew the two bolts from each of the
crossmember side brackets. Lower the
crossmember just enough to be able to
remove the sump. In practice, as the car is
standing on its roadwheels, the car body
should be raised by placing two axle stands
under the front jacking points (see
illustration).
36Extract the nine bolts and remove the
timing cover complete with water pump (see
illustration). Removal of the radiator grille will
provide better access to the cover bolts.
37Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
sprocket timing marks are aligned at the
nearest point to each other (see illustration).If not, turn the crankshaft as necessary.
38Unbolt and remove the timing chain
tensioner. Take care not to allow the spring-
loaded tensioner plunger to eject (see
illustration).
39Lock the camshaft sprocket by passing a
rod through one of the holes and unscrew the
sprocket retaining bolt (see illustration).
40Remove the camshaft sprocket then
release the chain from the crankshaft sprocket
and remove the camshaft sprocket and chain
from the engine.
41If required, the crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff
key and chain guide can now be also removed.
42Clean away all old pieces of gasket from
the cylinder block and timing cover flanges.
43Remove and discard the sump gasket.
The gasket rear tabs may break off, so pickthem out of the recesses in the rear main
bearing cap using a sharp, pointed knife.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter.
2.8 litre engine
1Remove the sump.
2Remove the two securing bolts and remove
the oil pump complete with pick-up and
strainer.
12Oil pump - removal
11Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
V6 engines 2C•11
2C
10.28b Engine mounting top nut10.30 Coolant distribution pipe bracket10.32 Steering shaft coupling pinch bolt
10.37 Timing sprocket alignment marks
(arrowed)
10.36 Removing a timing cover retaining
bolt10.35 Unscrewing crossmember side
bracket mounting bolts
10.38 Timing chain tensioner assembly10.39 Slackening camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt
procarmanuals.com

Refer to Part A, Section 33 of this Chapter.
The crankcase ventilation system is very
simple. One hose joins the rear air inlet
trunking to the oil filler cap, and another hose
joins the left-hand rocker cover to the plenum
chamber. Filtered (and metered) air passes
through the oil filler cap into the engine, and is
extracted, along with any other fumes, via the
second hose. Refer to Chapter 1 for
maintenance of the system.
Refer to Part A, Section 35 of this Chapter
but disregard the reference to new cylinder
head bolts when these are of the conventional
(hexagon-headed) type. Only Torx type bolts
need to be renewed.
1Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a clean rag and fit the mainbearing upper half shells in position (see
illustration).
2Clean the main bearing shell locations and
fit the half shells in the caps.
3Fit the flanged shells to No 3 bearing.
4Lubricate the shells and the main bearing
journals with engine oil.
5Lubricate a new rear oil seal and fit it to the
end of the crankshaft, lips facing inwards.
6Carefully place the crankshaft in position
(see illustration).
7Make sure that the surfaces are clean, then
apply a film of sealant (Ford No A-70SX-
19554-BA, or equivalent) to the mating faces
of the crankcase and the rear main bearing
cap.
8Fit the bearing caps, with the arrows on the
caps pointing to the front of the engine (see
illustration).
9Insert the main bearing cap bolts. The bolts
for bearing caps No 2 and 3 have rounded
heads, and are 14 mm (0.55 in) longer than
those for caps 1 and 4.
10Tighten the main bearing cap bolts
progressively to the specified torque.
11Make sure that the crankshaft is free to
rotate. Some stiffness is to be expected withnew components, but there should be no tight
spots or binding.
12Press the crankshaft rear oil seal firmly
against the rear main bearing.
13Check the crankshaft endfloat, levering
the crankshaft back and forth and inserting
feeler blades between the crankshaft and No 3
main bearing (see illustration). Excessive
endfloat can only be due to wear of the
crankshaft or bearing shell flanges.
14Coat the rear main bearing cap sealing
wedges with sealant and press into position
with a blunt screwdriver(see illustration).The
rounded end of each wedge carries a red paint
mark, which must face the bearing cap.
1Slide the spacer ring onto the camshaft,
chamfered side first. Refit the Woodruff key if
it was removed.
2Lubricate the camshaft bearings, the
camshaft and thrust plate.
3Carefully insert the camshaft from the front
and fit the thrust plate and self-locking
securing bolts. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque (see illustrations).
4Fit the timing cover dowels and O-ring seals
onto the crankcase. The chamfered end of the
dowels must face outwards towards the timing
cover (see illustration).
5Ensure that the mating faces of the
crankcase and front intermediate plate are
32Camshaft and intermediate
plate - refitting
31Crankshaft and main
bearings - refitting
30Engine reassembly - general
information
29Crankcase ventilation system -
general information
28Flywheel ring gear -
examination and renovation
V6 engines 2C•15
2C
31.1 Rear main bearing shell in the
crankcase31.6 Placing the crankshaft in position
31.8 Main bearing cap markings - arrow
points to front of engine31.13 Checking crankshaft endfloat31.14 Fitting the rear main bearing cap
sealing wedges
27.16b Removing the oil pump cover
If the old bearings are being
refitted (although this is false
economy unless they are
practically new) make sure
they are fitted in their original positions.
procarmanuals.com

1Make sure that the oil pump and crankcase
mating faces are clean.
2Check that the washer on the oil pump
driveshaft is located correctly (see illustration).
3If a new or overhauled pump is being fitted,
prime it by injecting oil into it and turning it by
hand.
4Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
with the pointed end towards the distributor
(see illustration).
5Fit the assembled oil pump, using a new
gasket. Insert the pump-to-block bolts and
tighten them to the specified torque (see
illustration).
6Refit the sump.Refer to Part A, Section 40 of this Chapter.
2.8 litre engines
1Lubricate a new oil seal and fit it to the
timing cover (see illustration).
2If the Woodruff keys were removed from the
camshaft and crankshaft, refit them.
3Refit the crankshaft gear, if removed, using
a length of tube to drive it home.
4Position the camshaft and crankshaft so
that their keyways are facing each other(seeillustration).Slide the camshaft gear onto the
camshaft, rotating the shafts slightly if
necessary so that the marks on the two gears
are aligned. Remember that there are two
marks on the crankshaft gear.
5Fit the camshaft gear retaining bolt and
washer(see illustration).Tighten the bolt to
the specified torque.
6Apply sealant to the mating faces of the
timing cover and the intermediate plate.
7Position a new gasket on the intermediate
plate and fit the timing cover to the cylinder
block (see illustrations).
8Fit the timing cover bolts, but do not tighten
them yet.
9Oil the sealing face of the crankshaft pulley
or damper. Fit the pulley/damper and the
central bolt and washer, applying sealant to
the inboard face of the washer (see
illustration). Draw the pulley/damper into
36Timing cover and drive -
refitting
35Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - refitting34Oil pump - refitting
V6 engines 2C•17
2C
34.2 Oil pump driveshaft washer location34.4 Fitting the oil pump driveshaft34.5 Oil pump in position
36.7a Timing cover gasket in position
36.1 Timing cover oil seal36.5 Camshaft gear washer and bolt36.4 Crankshaft and camshaft gears
correctly aligned
36.7b Fitting the timing cover36.9 Fitting the crankshaft pulley
procarmanuals.com

place by tightening the bolt; this will centralise
the timing cover.
10Tighten the timing cover bolts evenly to
the specified torque.
11Jam the crankshaft and tighten the pulley/
damper central bolt to the specified torque.
12Refit the sump.
13If the water pump was removed from the
timing cover, refit it using a new gasket.
14If the engine is still in the vehicle, reverse
the steps taken to gain access.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
15If the crankshaft sprocket was removed,
check that the key slots in the end of the
crankshaft and camshaft are in alignment at
the closest point to each other (see
illustration).16Fit the crankshaft sprocket and chain
guide.
17Engage the chain around the teeth of the
crankshaft sprocket.
18Engage the camshaft sprocket in the
upper loop of the chain in such a way so that
the camshaft sprocket will slip onto the key
slot when the timing mark is aligned with that
on the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).
Some trial and error may be involved in
achieving this.
19Lock the camshaft sprocket and tighten
the retaining bolt to the specified torque.
20Retract the chain tensioner. To do this,
insert the plunger (bevelled side entering), then
release the pawl with a small screwdriver
pushed into the hole in the tensioner body
(see illustration).21Compress the plunger/slipper and retain it
in the retracted position using a cable-tie or
similar. New chain tensioners are supplied
complete with a retainer (see illustration).
22Bolt the tensioner in position, at the same
time removing the plunger retainer. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
23Locate a new gasket on the front face of
the engine.
24Renew the timing cover oil seal and apply
grease to the lips.
25Fit the timing cover, centre it and align it
with the sump mounting flange.
26Although a special tool (21-137) is
available for centring the cover, a piece of
plastic pipe, or a socket of suitable thickness,
will serve as an adequate substitute.
Alternatively measure the space between the
crankshaft nose and the timing cover damper
recess at several different points and adjust
the position of the cover until all the
measurements are equal. A strip of metal 14.0
mm wide will serve as a gauge if calipers are
not available (see illustrations).
27Tighten the timing cover bolts (see
illustration)and fit the Woodruff key (where
removed) for the vibration damper.
28Apply jointing compound to the front and
rear sump flange areas on the timing
cover/cylinder block and rear main bearing
cap. Make sure that the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean. Checking that the rear tabs of
the gasket enter the recesses in the main
bearing cap, locate a new sump gasket on the
crankcase (see illustration).
2C•18V6 engines
36.15 Crankshaft and camshaft key and
slot alignment
36.26b Using a socket to check the
crankshaft to timing cover gap
36.21 Timing chain tensioner retracted
using a cable-tie36.26a Measuring the crankshaft to timing
cover gap
36.27 Timing cover retaining bolts
(arrowed)36.28 Sump gasket at rear main bearing
cap
36.18 Fitting timing chain and sprockets36.20 Releasing timing chain tensioner
pawl
procarmanuals.com