1985 FORD GRANADA battery

DOHC engines
12On this engine, the coolant/alternator
drivebelt also drives the power steering pump
and (where applicable) the air conditioning
compressor. The drivebelt tension is set by an
automatic tensioner assembly.
13The condition of the drivebelt should be
checked as described above.
14An idea of the amount of wear which has
taken place on the belt can be gained from the
position of indicator mark (A) on the mounting
bracket in relation to the block (B) on the
tensioner arm (see illustration).When the belt
is new the mark should be aligned with the top
of the tensioner block. As the belt wears, the
tensioner arm moves and the block on the arm
will move slowly up in relation to the mark on
the bracket. When the mark aligns with the
bottom of the tensioner arm block the belt can
be regarded as worn and should be replaced
(see illustration).
15To renew the belt, turn the automatic
tensioner arm clockwise, using a 17 mm
socket and a wrench on the boss in the centre
of the pulley, and slide the belt from the
pulleys, then slowly release the tensioner.
16To fit a new belt, rotate the tensioner
clockwise as during removal, then slide the
belt over the pulleys. With the belt correctly
located, slowly release the tensioner; the
tensioner will automatically set the correct
drivebelt tension.
Caution:Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual.
1The battery fitted as original equipment is
“maintenance-free”, and requires no
maintenance apart from having the case kept
clean, and the terminals clean and tight.
2To clean the battery terminals disconnect
them, after having first removed the cover
(later models) -negative earth first. Use a wire
brush or abrasive paper to clean the terminals.
Bad corrosion should be treated with a
solution of bicarbonate of soda, applied with
an old toothbrush. Do not let this solution get
inside the battery.3Coat the battery terminals with petroleum
jelly or a proprietary anti-corrosive compound
before reconnecting them. Reconnect and
tighten the positive (live) lead first, followed by
the negative (earth) lead. Do not overtighten.
4Keep the top of the battery clean and dry.
Periodically inspect the battery tray for
corrosion, and make good as necessary.
5Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.
SOHC engines
1Valve clearances are checked with the
engine cold.
2On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
3On fuel-injection models, remove the
bracing strap which connects the inlet
manifold to the right-hand side of the engine.
4On all models, identify the HT leads and
disconnect them from the spark plugs. Unclip
the leads from the rocker cover.
5Although not essential, it will make the
engine easier to turn if the spark plugs are
removed.
6Remove the ten bolts which secure the
rocker cover, noting the location of the
different shapes of reinforcing plates. Remove
the cover and gasket.7One of the cam lobes will be seen to be
pointing upwards. Measure the clearance
between the base of this cam and the cam
follower, finding the thickness of feeler blade
which gives a firm sliding fit(see illustration).
8The desired valve clearances are given in
the Specifications. Note that the clearances
for inlet and exhaust valves are different.
Numbering from the front (sprocket) end of the
camshaft, the exhaust valves are 1, 3, 5 and 7,
and the inlet valves 2, 4, 6 and 8.
9If adjustment is necessary, slacken the ball-
pin locknut and screw the ball-pin up or down
until the clearance is correct. Hold the ball-pin
stationary and tighten the locknut(see
illustration).Recheck the clearance after
tightening the locknut in case the ball-pin has
moved.
10Turn the engine to bring another cam lobe
to the vertical position and repeat the above
procedure. Carry on until all eight valves have
been checked.
11Access to some of the ball-pins is made
difficult by the carburettor or fuel-injection inlet
manifold. To avoid having to remove the
offending components, double cranked
spanners or cutaway socket spanners can be
used (see illustration).
12When adjustment is complete, refit the
rocker cover using a new gasket. Make sure
that the dovetail sections of the gasket fit
together correctly.
13Fit the rocker cover bolts and reinforcing
plates. Tighten the bolts as described in
Chapter 2A Section 44, paragraph 11.
23Engine valve clearance check
22Battery terminal check
1•13
1
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
21.14a Water pump/alternator drivebelt
tensioner indicator position - DOHC engine
A Indicator markB Block
21.14b Water pump/alternator drivebelt
tensioner wear indicator location (arrowed)
- DOHC engine21.8 Tightening the alternator strap bolt
23.7 Measuring a valve clearance - SOHC
engine23.9 Adjusting a valve clearance - SOHC
engine
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14Refit the other disturbed components.
15Run the engine and check that there are
no oil leaks from the rocker cover.
2.8 litre engine
16If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
preliminary steps:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Remove the throttle mechanism cover, air
cleaner cover, airflow meters and inlet
trunking
c)Remove the HT leads from the spark plugs
and unclip them from the rocker cover
d)Unbolt and remove the rocker covers
17Although not essential, it will be easier to
turn the engine if the spark plugs are removed.
18Valve clearances must be adjusted with
the engine cold (less than 40°C/104°F).
19Turn the engine, using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, until the crankshaft
pulley timing mark is aligned with the TDC
(zero) pointer on the timing cover and the
valves of No 5 cylinder are overlapping, ie the
exhaust valve is closing and the inlet valve is
opening. (No 5 cylinder is the middle one on
the left-hand bank - left being the vehicle’s
left, not necessarily to operator’s.) (see
illustration).
20When the valves of No 5 cylinder are in
this position, check the valve clearances of
No1 cylinder by inserting a feeler blade of the
specified thickness between the rocker arm
and the valve stem. Adjust the clearance, if
necessary, by turning the rocker arm adjustingscrew until the specified clearance is obtained
(see illustration).Inlet and exhaust valve are
different.
21If the engine is now rotated one-third of a
turn clockwise at the crankshaft, the valves of
No 3 cylinder will be overlapping and the
valves of No4 cylinder can be checked and
adjusted.
22Proceed to adjust the clearances
according to the firing order as follows. The
cylinders are numbered (see illustration)and
the valves are listed in their correct order,
working from the front of the engine:
Valves overlappingValves to adjust
No 5 cylinderNo 1 cylinder (in, ex)
No 3 cylinderNo 4 cylinder (in, ex)
No 6 cylinderNo 2 cylinder (in, ex)
No 1 cylinderNo 5 cylinder (ex, in)
No 4 cylinderNo 3 cylinder (ex, in)
No 2 cylinderNo 6 cylinder (ex, in)
23Refit the rocker covers, using new gaskets
if necessary. Tighten the rocker cover bolts to
the specified torque.
24If the engine is in the vehicle, refit the other
displaced components.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
25The operation for these engines is
essentially as described for the 2.8 litre
engine, noting that the valve arrangement is
changed (see illustrations).
Using a spanner of the appropriate size,
check each manifold securing nut in turn
whilst referring to the appropriate Sections in
Chapter 2C for tightening sequences and
torque loading figures.
Remove the radiator grille and clean any
leaves, insects etc. from the condenser coil
and fins. Be very careful not to damage the
condenser fins: use a soft brush, or a
compressed air jet, along (not across) the fins
(see illustration).
25Air conditioner condenser
check
24Engine inlet manifold security
check - V6 only
1•14Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
23.19 Inlet and exhaust valve location -
2.8 litre V6 engine
23.20 Adjusting a valve clearance -
V6 engine
23.11 Cutaway socket spanner
23.25a Valve arrangement for RH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
Upper arrow points to front of engine23.25b Valve arrangement for LH cylinder
head - 2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
Upper arrow points to front of engine
23.22 Cylinder numbering and HT lead
connections - V6 engine
White arrow points to front of engine
25.1 Cleaning the air conditioner
condenser fins
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DOHC engine
8Proceed as described above whilst noting
that the camshaft cover breather hose must
be disconnected before the air cleaner can be
removed.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC and V6 engines
9Release the four spring clips which secure
the air cleaner cover(see illustration).
10Lift off the cover and move it aside. It is
attached to the vane airflow meter(s): be
careful not to strain the air trunking or meter
wiring. To remove the cover completely,
disconnect the meter(s) or unbolt the cover
(see illustration).
11Remove the air cleaner element, notingwhich way up it is fitted (see illustration).
Wipe clean inside the air cleaner body.
12Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, remove the
three securing nuts which are accessible from
inside the left-hand wheel arch. Disengage the
body from the air pick-up hose and remove it.
13Refit by reversing the removal operations.DOHC engine
14To renewthe element, disconnect the
battery negative lead.
15Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
16Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
17Unscrew the securing nut, and release theair inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel (see illustration).
18Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
19Lift out the air cleaner element, then wipe
the inside of the air cleaner lid and casing
clean (see illustration).
20Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.
21Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
22To remove and refit the air cleaner
housing, refer to paragraph 12.
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
1Before disturbing any part of the ignition
system, disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before
disconnecting them from the spark plugs.
All engines except DOHC
3On V6 models, remove the screening can lid
(see illustration).
4Remove the coil-to-distributor HT lead
(sometimes called the king lead) by
disconnecting it from the coil tower and the
distributor cap.
5Disconnect the other HT leads from the
39Ignition system component
check
1•17
1
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
38.4 Disconnecting the air cleaner cold air
inlet trunking (carburettor model)38.5 Air cleaner hot air trunking and
manifold shroud (carburettor model)38.3 Removing the air cleaner element
(carburettor model)
38.17 Air intake tube retaining nut
(fuel-injection DOHC)38.19 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection DOHC)38.11 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)
38.9 Air cleaner cover spring clip
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)38.10 Airflow meter to cover bolts
(arrowed) (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)
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distributor cap, making a sketch if necessary
so that they can be reconnected to the same
terminals. Remove the leads.
6On V6 models, remove the distributor
screening can (see illustration).
7Release the two clips or screws which
secure the distributor cap. Remove the cap
(see illustration).
8Note that if the distributor cap is secured by
clips, the engine must not be cranked with the
cap removed. This is because it is possible for
a spring clip to foul the rotating parts of the
distributor and cause damage.
9Remove the rotor arm. It may simply pull off,
or it may be secured by two screws (see
illustration). The rotor arm tips may be coated
with silicone grease - if so, do not rub it off.
10Clean the HT leads and distributor capwith a dry cloth. Scrape any corrosion or other
deposits from the connectors and terminals.
Also clean the coil tower.
11Renew the HT leads if they are cracked,
burnt or otherwise damaged. If a multi-meter
is available, measure the resistance of the
leads. The desired value is given in the
Specifications of Chapter 5.
12Renew the distributor cap if it is cracked
or badly burnt inside, or if there is evidence of
“tracking” (black lines marking the path of HT
leakage). If there is a carbon brush at the
centre of the cap, make sure that it moves
freely, and is not excessively worn.
13Clean the metal track of the rotor arm with
abrasive paper (but see paragraph 9 first).
Renew the arm if it is cracked or badly burnt.
14Commence reassembly by fitting the rotorarm to the distributor. It is positively located by
a notch or shaped pegs so it cannot be fitted
the wrong way round. Tighten the securing
screws, when applicable.
15Refit the distributor cap and secure it with
the clips or screws.
16On V6 models, refit the screening can.
17Reconnect the HT leads to the distributor
cap, making sure that they are correctly fitted.
The No 1 connector on the cap is marked (see
illustration).
18On V6 models, refit the screening can lid.
19Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs
and coil.
20Reconnect the battery and run the engine.
DOHC engines
21Unclip the lower section of the distributor
shield from the upper section, then unscrew
the two securing nuts, and withdraw the upper
section of the shield from the studs on the
upper timing chain cover (see illustrations).
22Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs by pulling on the connectors, not the
leads. Similarly, disconnect the HT lead from
the coil, and release it from the clip on the
timing chain cover.
23Using a suitable Torx key or socket,
unscrew the two distributor cap securing
screws, then lift off the cap.
24The rotor arm is a push-fit on the end of
the rotor shaft (see illustration).
25If desired, the rotor housing can be pulled
from the timing chain cover.
26Inspect all components as described in
1•18Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
39.6 Removing a distributor screening can
- V6 engine39.7 Removing a distributor cap39.3 Removing a distributor can screening
lid - V6 engine
39.21b . . . and the upper section of the
distributor shield - DOHC engine39.24 Removing the distributor cap and
rotor arm - DOHC engine39.21a Unclipping the lower section . . .
39.9 Removing a rotor arm39.17 HT lead identification at distributor
cap - V6 engine
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the previous sub Section.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.
1Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable
from the transmission when so equipped.
3Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.
5Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6Reconnect the downshift cable, when
applicable, then lower the vehicle.
OHC engines
1Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take
adequate fire precautions.
4Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see
illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.
5Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8Reconnect the battery. Have an assistantswitch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9Lower the vehicle on completion.
V6 engines
10This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.
Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
41Fuel filter renewal
40Automatic transmission
brake band adjustment
1•19
1
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) -
OHC engine42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant andbleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle andremove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-
made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold thepiston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
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12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of thehydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.
Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal -
SOHC engines
1Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right-
hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.7Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted andflushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.
46Engine coolant renewal
1•20Every 2 years
46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap -
OHC engine46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) -
OHC engine
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
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The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft.The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:
a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b)Removal and refitting of the camshaft
(after removing the cylinder head)
c)Removal and refitting of the timing belt
and sprockets
d)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil
pump
e)Removal and refitting of the pistons,
connecting rods and big-end bearings
f)Renewal of the engine mountings
g)Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h)Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.
4If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.
6Drain the cooling system.
7Disconnect the radiator top and bottom
hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:
a)Alternator
b)Temperature gauge sender
c)Engine management temperature sensor
d)Distributor
e)Oil pressure switch
f)Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g)Carburettor stepper motor
h)Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j)Inlet manifold heater
12Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,
disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared
for fuel spillage.
16On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressureregulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold.
18On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Although not specified by the
manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.
1Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.
4Remove the radiator.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Disconnect and unclip the reversing light
switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.
7Disconnect the clutch cable.
8Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets
and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.
10Drain the engine oil.
11Unhook the exhaust system from its
mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.
6Engine - removal with manual
gearbox
5Engine - removal leaving
gearbox/transmission in vehicle
4Methods of engine removal
3Major operations requiring
engine removal
2Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
SOHCengines 2A•5
2A
5.13 Oil level sensor
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14Take the weight of the engine and remove
the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.
15Lift the engine/transmission, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit
forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.
16Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the
vehicle is to be moved.
1With the engine and gearbox on the bench,
remove the starter motor.
2Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.
3Remove the bracing strap and the
remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
4With the aid of an assistant draw the
gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight
of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine on a concrete
floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin.
However, do not immerse parts with internal
oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove,
usually requiring a high pressure hose.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers to
hold small items according to their use, as this
will help when reassembling the engine and
also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view of using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.7When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers
in their location after being removed, as this
helps protect the threads and will also be
helpful when reassembling the engine.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for
dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12-
spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed
for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12-
spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the
keys required to deal with them are available
from most motor accessory shops and tool
factors.
10Another tool which is useful, though by no
means essential, is a valve spring compressor
of the type which hooks under the camshaft
(see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the
number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may
also be available.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed. The actual
items removed, and the sequence of removal,
will depend on the work to be done:
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Fan, water pump and thermostat
Oil pressure switch
(see illustration)
Temperature gauge senderOil filter and dipstick
Engine bearer arms (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation components
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see
illustration)
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Drain the cooling system
c)Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds
d)Disconnect the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing, and the spur from the
expansion tank
e)Disconnect the wiring from the
temperature gauge sender
f)Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and
spark plugs
2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover (see illustration). Note the location of
the cover in the special bolt.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned
with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head (see illustrations).Note the
position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark
its contact end in relation to the rim of the
distributor body.
4Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot
10Cylinder head - removal
9Ancillary components - removal
8Engine dismantling - general
information
7Engine - separation from
manual gearbox
2A•6SOHCengines
9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)
9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm9.1c Removing the alternator bracket
8.10 This valve spring compressor is used
by hooking it under the camshaft
Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.
10.2 Removing the timing cover
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