1982 CHEVROLET CAMARO ECU

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 293
4. Remove the torque arm from t
he vehicle as outlined under Rear
Suspension in
Suspension & Steering of this repair guide.
5. Mark the driveshaft and the rear ax le pinion flange to indicate their
relationship. Unbolt the rear universal joint straps. Lower the rear of the
driveshaft, being careful to keep the universal joint caps in place.
Withdraw the driveshaft from the transmission and remove it from the
vehicle.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable a nd the electrical connectors from the
transmission.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe brace.
8. Remove the transmission shifter support attaching bolts from the
transmission.
9. On 4-speed transmissions only, disconnec t the shift linkage at the shifter.
10. Raise the transmission slight ly with a jack, then remove the
crossmember attaching bolts.
11. Remove the transmission mount atta ching bolts, then remove the mount
and crossmember from the vehicle.
12. Remove the transmission attachi ng bolts, then with the aid of an
assistant, move the transmission r earward and downward out of the
vehicle.
To install: 13. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the main drive gear
bearing retainer and to the splined por tion of the main drive gear. This
will assure free movement of the clutch and transmission components
during assembly.
14. Install the transmission and secu re with transmission mounting bolts
Torque transmission-to-clutch housing bo lts to 55 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
15. Install the mount and cr ossmember into the vehicle, then install the
transmission mount attaching bolts. Torque both the mount-to-
crossmember bolts and t he mount-to-transmission bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47
Nm).
16. Install the crossmember attach ing bolts. Torque the crossmember-to-
body bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
17. On 4-speed transmissions only, connect the shift linkage at the shifter and adjust the shift linkage.
18. Install the transmission shifte r support attaching bolts to the
transmission. Torque shifter bracket-to -extension housing to 25 ft. lbs.
(35 Nm).
19. Install the exhaust pipe brace.
20. Connect the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors to the
transmission.
21. Install the driveshaft into the tr ansmission. Then, align the marks on the
driveshaft and the rear axle pinion fl ange. Bolt the rear universal joint
straps.
22. Install the torque arm into the vehicle.
23. Fill the transmission wi th lubricant. Then install the filler plug and torque
to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
24. Lower the vehicle.

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25. Connect the negative battery cable at the battery.
CLUTCH

UNDERSTANDING THE CLUTCH
The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the
transmission. A vehicle at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that
weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop a high starting
torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load
until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. To a point, torque
increases with engine rpm. The clutch a llows the engine to build up torque by
physically disconnecting t he engine from the transmission, relieving the engine
of any load or resistance.
The transfer of engine power to the tr ansmission (the load) must be smooth and
gradual; if it weren't, driv e line components would wear out or break quickly.
This gradual power transfer is made possi ble by gradually releasing the clutch
pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plat e are the connecting link between the
engine and transmission. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate
contact each other (the clutch is engag ed) physically joining the engine and
transmission. When the pedal is pushed in, the disc and plate separate (the
clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transmission.
Most clutch assemblies consists of t he flywheel, the clutch disc, the clutch
pressure plate, the throw out bearing and fork, the actuating linkage and the
pedal. The flywheel and clutch pressure plate (driving members) are connected
to the engine crankshaft and rotate with it. The clutch disc is located between
the flywheel and pressure plate, and is splined to the transmission shaft. A
driving member is one that is attached to the engine and transfers engine power
to a driven member (clutch disc) on t he transmission shaft. A driving member
(pressure plate) rotates (drives) a driv en member (clutch disc) on contact and,
in so doing, turns the transmission shaft.
There is a circular di aphragm spring within th e pressure plate cover
(transmission side). In a relaxed state (w hen the clutch pedal is fully released)
this spring is convex; that is, it is dished outward toward the transmission.
Pushing in the clutch peda l actuates the attached linkage. Connected to the
other end of this is the throw out fork, which hold the throw out bearing. When
the clutch pedal is depre ssed, the clutch linkage pushes the fork and bearing
forward to contact the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. The outer edges
of the spring are secured to the pressure plate and are pivoted on rings so that
when the center of the spring is compre ssed by the throw out bearing, the outer
edges bow outward and, by so doing, pu ll the pressure plate in the same
direction - away from the clutch disc. This action se parates the disc from the
plate, disengaging the clutch and allowing the transmission to be shifted into
another gear. A coil type clutch return sp ring attached to the clutch pedal arm
permits full release of the pedal. Releasing the pedal pulls the throw out bearing
away from the diaphragm spring resulting in a reversal of spring position. As
bearing pressure is gradually released from the spring center, the outer edges

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CAUTION - The transmission must be secu red to the transmission jack
17. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Be careful not to damage the oil cooler lines, throttle valve cable, or the shift control cable. Also, keep
the rear of the transmissi on lower than the front to avoid the possibility of
the torque converter disengagi ng from the transmission.
To install: 18. Position the transmission and converter into place.
19. Install the transmission -to-engine mounting bolts.
20. Connect the throttle valve cable and oil cooler lines to the transmissio\
n.
21. Install the transmission cro ssmember and secure with bolts.
22. Install the transmission mount bolt.
23. Matchmark the torque converter-to-f lywheel. Install the torque converter-
to-flywheel attaching bolts.
Before installing the converter-to-flywheel bolts, be sure that the weld nuts on
the converter are flush with the flywheel, and that the converter rotates freely by
hand in this position.
24. Install the flywheel cover.
25. Install the torque arm-to-transmission bolts.
26. Connect the speedometer cable, el ectrical connectors and the shift
control cable from the transmission.
27. Connect the catalytic converter s upport bracket at the transmission.
28. Align the matchmark m ade earlier, then install the driveshaft to the axle
pinion. Bolt the universal joint straps to the pinion flange.
29. Lower the vehicle.
30. Install the dipstick tube using a ne w dipstick tube O-ring and secure with
the bolt. Install the tran smission oil dipstick.
31. Connect the throttle valve (TV) c ontrol cable at the carburetor.
32. Install the air cleaner assembly.
33. Connect the negative battery cable at the battery.
DRIVELINE

DRIVESHAFT AND U-JOINTS
The U-joint is secured to the yoke in one of two ways. Dana and Cleveland
shafts use a conventional snapring to ho ld each bearing cup in the yoke. The
snapring fits into a groove located in eac h yoke end just on top of each bearing
cup. The Saginaw design shaft secures its U-joints in another way. Nylon
material is injected through a small hole in the yoke and flows along a circular
groove between the U-joint and the yoke , creating a synthetic snapring.
Disassembly of the Saginaw U-joint requi res the joint to be pressed from the
yoke. This results in damage to the be aring cups and destruction of the nylon
rings.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 323
Replacement kits include new bearing
cups and conventional snaprings to
replace the original nylon rings. These replacement rings must go inboard of the
yoke in contrast to outboard mounting of the Dana and Cleveland designs.
Previous service to the Saginaw U-joints can be recognized by the presence of
snaprings inboard of the yoke.
Bad U-joints, requiring replacement, will produce a clunking sound when the car
is put into gear. This is due to worn needle bearings or a scored trunnion end
possibly caused by improper lubricati on during assembly. Camaro U-joints
require no periodic maintenance and theref ore have no lubrication fittings.
DRIVESHAFT
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise the vehicle and safely su pport it on jackstands. Paint a reference
line from the rear end of the drives haft to the companion flange so that
they can be reassembled in the same position.
2. Disconnect the rear universal join t by removing the U-bolts, retaining
straps, or the flange bolts.
3. To prevent loss of the needle bear ings, tape the bearing caps to the
trunnion.

Fig. 1: Driveshaft
4. Remove the driveshaft from the tr ansmission by sliding it rearward.
Do not be alarmed by oil l eakage at the transmission output shaft. This oil is
there to lubricate the sp lines of the front yoke.
To install: 5. Check the yoke seal in the transmi ssion case extension and replace it if
necessary. See the transmission sect ion for replacement procedures.
6. Position the driveshaft and insert t he front yoke into the transmission so
the splines mesh with the transmission shaft splines.
7. Using reference marks made during re moval, align the driveshaft with the
companion flange and secure it with U-bolts or, retaining straps.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT 1. Support the driveshaft horizontally in line with the base plate of a press.

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10. Install the brake line j
unction block bolt at the ax le housing. Connect any
brake lines that were disconnected.
11. Install and secure the driveshaft a ligning the match marks made earlier.
12. Connect the shock absorbers to the axle and install the wheel
assemblies.
13. Lower the vehicle and replace any lost rear axle fluid.
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable contai ner under the differential. Remove the carrier
cover and drain the gear oil.
3. Remove the drive axles.
4. Mark the differential bearing caps L and R to make sure they will be
reassembled in their original location.
5. Using a suitable tool, remove the di fferential carrier. Be careful not to
damage the gasket sealing surface wh en removing the unit. Place the
right and left bearing outer races of the side bearing assemblies and
shims in sets with the marked different ial bearings caps so they can be
reinstalled in their original positions.
To install: 6. Inspect the differential carrier housi ng for foreign material. Check the ring
and pinion for chipped teeth, exce ssive wear and scoring. Check the
carrier bearings visually and by feel . Clean the differential housing and
replace components, as necessary.
7. Install the differential carrier. C heck the carrier bearing preload along
with the ring and pinion backlash, then adjust, as necessary. Tighten the
differential bearing cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm) except on Borg-
Warner rear axles which are ti ghtened to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
8. Install the axles.
9. Install the carrier cover using a new gasket. Tighten the carrier cover
bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Add the proper type and quantity of gear oil to
axle assembly.

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battery, electricity is forced into the battery
, and the battery is returned to its fully
charged state.
Alternators are used on the modern autom obiles for they are lighter, more
efficient, can rotate at higher speeds and have fewer brush problems. In an
alternator, the field rotates while al l the current produced passes only through
the stators windings. The brushes bear agains t continuous slip rings rather than
a commutator. This causes the current produced to periodically reverse the
direction of its flow. Diodes (electrica l one-way switches) block the flow of
current from traveling in t he wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired together
to permit the alternating flow of the st ator to be converted to a pulsating, but
unidirectional flow at the alternator out put. The alternator's field is wired in
series with the voltage regulator.
Please refer to Engine Performance & Tune-up for ignition system testing
procedures.
IGNITION COIL
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
INTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Disconnect and label the wires from cap.
2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.
3. On the distributor cap, remove t he coil cover attaching screws and the
cover.
4. Remove the ignition coil attaching screws and lift the coil from the cap.
To install: 5. Position the coil and secure it with the attaching screws. Be sure to install
the carbon button and rubber disc first.
6. Install the coil cover and attaching screws.
7. Install the distributor cap.
8. Connect the wires to the cap.
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED COIL 1. Label and disconnect the wires from the coil.
2. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolts and the coil.
To install: 3. To install, position the coil into place and se cure it with the mounting
bolts.
4. Connect the wires to the coil.
IGNITION MODULE

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 356
This procedure is to be performed with t
he alternator removed from the vehicle.
The new style CS alternators on 1987-92 vehicles are non-serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.
1. Make scribe marks on the end fram es to make reassembly easier.
2. Remove the 4 through-bolts and s eparate the drive end frame assembly
from the rectifier end frame assembly.
3. Remove the 3 diode trio attachi ng nuts and the 3 regulator attaching
screws.
4. Remove the diode trio and the regulator from the end frame.
To install: 5. Push the brushes into the brush hol der and install a brush retainer or a
tooth pick to hold the brushes in place.
6. Install the regulator into the alternator.
7. Install the diode trio.
8. Install the halves of the alternat or and secure the halves with the 4
through-bolts. After the alternator is assembled, remove the brush
retainer.
STARTER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 1: View of the starter on a V8

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 359
3. Disconnect all wiring from the star
ter solenoid. Replace each nut as the
connector is removed (as thread sizes differ from connector to
connector). Note or tag the wiring positions for installation.
4. Remove the bracket from the st arter and the two mounting bolts. On
engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt
and detach the bracket fr om the starter.
5. Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, and
then remove the unit from the car.
To install: 6. Position the starter into place and se cure it with the front bracket bolt and
nut. Torque the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs.
CAUTION - If shims were removed, they must be replaced to ensure proper
pinion-to-flywheel engagement.
7. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, attach the bracket to the starter.
Install the bracket to the starter and the two mounting bolts. Install the
front bracket upper bolt.
8. Connect all wiring to the starte r solenoid and tighten the nuts.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
SOLENOID REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the screw and washer from the motor connector strap terminal.
2. Remove the two solenoid retaining screws.
3. Twist the solenoid housing clockwis e to remove the flange key from the
keyway in the housing. Then remove the housing.
4. To re-install the unit, place the re turn spring on the plunger and place the
solenoid body on the driv e housing. Turn counterclockwise to engage the
flange key. Place the two retaining screws in position and install the
screw and washer which secures the strap terminal. Install the unit on
the starter.
SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS
For additional information on engine sensors, refer to Engine Performance &
Tune-up and Engine Controls in this repair guide.