1953 JEEP DJ gas type

B
LUBRICATION B-3.
SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

Perform
the following operations at the mileage shown. Two thousand miles equals
3,200
km.

SERVICE
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE

OPERATION
VEHICLE
^ n>
MILEAGE
IN
THOUSANDS

6 8 10 12 24 30
Check Wheel Nut Torque*
Check
Fluid
Level
in Battery X Check
Fluid
Level
in Brake Master Cylinder0. X
Service
Cooling
System X Service Tires X

Lubricate
Distributor
Cam Lubricator (F4-134) X
Lubricate
Steering Linkage X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft Universal Joints X

Lubricate
Propeller Shaft
Slip
Joints ; X
Lubricate
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets................................... X Change Engine
Oil
and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (F4 134 Engine)** X
Change Engine Oil and
Filter,
and Service Air Cleaner (V6-225 Engine)**....
Check Brake Operation and Pedal
Free
Play X Check
Clutch
Pedal
Free
Play. .... X
Check all
V-Belt
Tensions X
Check Exhaust Emission System
(If
so equipped)*** \ X
Service Positive
Crankcase
Vent
Valve
and Breather . .' X
Road Test
Including
a Check of all Instrument
Lights
and Controls X Tune-up Engine
Check Operation of
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve

Clean
Exterior of Radiator

Align
Headlights • Check Brake
Linings
,
Check Exhaust System for Leaks Replace Canister Air
Filter
(F. E. E. C. System)
Check
Axle
U-Bolt
Torque. Check Lubricaunt
Level
of Front
Axle
Universal Joints
Check Shock Absorber Mountings and Bushings Check Front and
Rear
Spring Bushings

Lubricate
Distributor
(V6-225).
Replace Spark, Plugs
Check Charging and Starting Circuits
Lubricate
Tailgate Latch, Supports and Hinges.

Lubricate
Door and
Hood
Hinge Pivots ;
Lubricate
Glove Compartment Door Latch

Lubricate
Heater Controls •

Lubricate
Windshield
Wiper and Washer Controls
Clean,
Repack and
Adjust
Wheel Bearings
Change Transmission and Transfer Lubricant. .
Replace
Dry-Type
Air Cleaner • Check Lubricant
Level
of
Differential

Lubricate
Transfer
Case
Shift
LeArer
Control
C«se.
. , . . . . . . . .
Continuing
each
2,000 miles

Continuing
each
6,000 miles

Continuing
each
24,000 miles

X
Continuing
each
30,000 miles
•Check after the
first
200 miles [320
km.
J
of operation.
If
wheel or wheels are changed for any
reason,
have
wheel nut torque rechecked after an additional two hundred miles of operation
••Service mileage shown or every 60 days, whichever occurs
first.

•••Maintenance check on emission system must be performed per
information
in this manual. "See text for brakes.

"Nj
^Miles
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Kilometers

3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400 48,000

B-9.
Engine Oil

For
maximum
engine
protection under all driving conditions encountered during the recommended

oil
change intervals, it is necessary to use only

"MS"
certified
sequence-tested
oils. The term
"MS"
must appear on the oil container singly or

in
conjunction with other designations. "MS" des­
ignated oils are heavy-duty detergent oils that are
formulated to withstand all service conditions in
modern powerplants. Engine oils designated only
as
"ML"
and/or
"MM"
are not recommended and should not be used except in an emergency when

"MS"
oil is not available. Certified
sequence-tested

engine
oils are described on their containers by

such
phrases as:
meets,
exceeds,
excels, or has
proven superior in the
test
requirements,
test
sequences, MS Service
tests,
standards, and service

requirements,
of automotive manufacturers, auto­
makers,
or car manufacturers for MS service or
Service
MS.
It
may be necessary to change
engine
oil more
frequently than normally recommended, depending upon the type and quality of oil used, the severity
of operation conditions, if the
engine
is used for
short
periods in cold weather, or if the
engine
is allowed to idle for excessive periods.

Always
drain
the crankcase while the
engine
is hot since
dirt
and contaminants are then more
likely
to be held in suspension and therefore
will

drain
out more completely.
Drain
the crankcase as follows:

a.
Position the
drain
receptacle under the
drain

plug.

b.
Remove the
drain
plug using the correct size

wrench.
Be careful of hot oil.
c.
Carefully
clean the
drain
plug. Inspect and

replace
the gasket, if deteriorated.
d.
When the oil has drained, replace and tighten
the crankcase
drain
plug. 12

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

B
e.
Check
for the presence of
excess
water in the

oil
that might indicate an internal leak from the
cooling system.

f.
Pour oil into the oil filler tube. Replace the oil

filler
cap.

B-10.
Engine Oil
Filter
Service —
Hurricane
F4 Engine

The
engine
oil filter assembly should be replaced at each
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] of normal
engine

use. To remove the filter, use oil filter wrench
C-4065.
To install a new filter, wipe the gasket —
contact surface with
engine
oil, screw on the unit

until
gasket contacts the sealing surface, and then tighten at least one
half
turn
more. DO NOT USE

TOOLS.
Turn
by hand only. When refilling the
engine
crankcase after filter has been changed be

sure
to add one extra quart [1 ltr.] of oil to
fill

filter
and oil passages. Run
engine
to make sure there is no leak at oil filter.

B-l 1.
Engine Oil
Filter
Service — Dauntless V-6 Engine

To
replace the oil filter, use oil filter wrench, Tool

C-4065,
to remove the filter. After the filter has
been removed from the oil pump housing located
on the right front side of the engine, wipe the
housing surface clean and oil the gasket on the base of the new filter to make a
good
seal. Screw
the new filter in position until its gasket contacts
the pump housing surface, then tighten at least
one-half
turn
until filter fits snug.

Note:
Tighten by hand only, do not use a tool to
tighten.

Replace
oil filter each
6000
miles
[9.600
km.] at

engine
oil change.

B-12.
Exhaust
Manifold
Heat
Control
Valve
— Dauntless V-6 Engine

A
thermally-actuated heat control valve is located at
rear
of the right exhaust manifold of the Daunt­

less
V-6 engine.
This
valve has a bimetal thermo­
static spring which holds the valve closed when
the
engine
is cold.

Each
time the vehicle is lubricated place a few drops of penetrating oil on the valve shaft bushings

and
then work the valve by hand making sure that
the lubricant is worked into the bushings.

Note:
If the valve shaft
does
not operate freely
penetrating oil should be used to free the shaft.

B-l 3.
Positive
Crankcase
Ventilation
System

Service
the ventilation system of the
engine
each
multiple of
6000
miles
[9.600
km.] on the odometer
after
initial
2000
miles
[3.200
km.] service. Re­
place the ventilation valve each
12,000
miles
[19.200
km.].

For
information on servicing the positive crankcase
ventilation system on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
and
the Dauntless V-6 engine, refer to the Tune-up Section.

B-l4.
Distributor
— Hurricane F4 Engine

The
distributor shaft is lubricated through an oiler mounted on the side of the housing. Place three or four drops of light
engine
oil in the oiler each
2,000

miles
[3.200
km.]. Also place one drop of light
engine
oil on the wick located on the top of the
shaft, which is made accessible by removing the
rotor
arm. Sparingly apply cam lubricant to the
breaker
arm cam and place a drop of oil on the

breaker
arm pivot.

B-l
5.
Distributor
— Dauntless V-6 Engine

The
distributor has a lubricant reservoir that
car­

ries
sufficient
lubricant
for the life of the distributor.
When
servicing breaker points, place one drop of
light
engine
oil on the wick located on the top of the shaft Also, apply cam lubricant sparingly to
the breaker arm cam, and place a drop of oil on the

breaker
arm pivot.

B-l6.
Generator

On
early production vehicles oilers are provided
at each end of the generator, for lubrication
pur­

pose.
On late production vehicles one oiler is pro­
vided at the
rear
(bushing end) of the generator for lubrication purpose. Place two to four drops of
light
engine
oil in each oiler every
2,000
miles
[3.200
km.].

B-l
7. Spark Plugs

Replace
spark
plugs. Refer to Section C.

B-18.
Starting
Circuit

Check
the starting
circuit.
Refer to Section H.

B-l
9. Charging
Circuit

Check
the charging
circuit.
Refer to Section H.

B-20.
Engine Tune-Up

Refer
to Section C of this manual.

B-21.
Adjust
Fan
Belt

Refer
to Section C.

B-22.
Exhaust Emission
Control
System or
Controlled
Combustion System

•
Refer to the appropriate section in this manual.

B-23.
Exhaust System

Check
the exhaust system for leaks. Refer to Section F.

B-24.
Fuel Evaporative Emission
Control
Canister Air
Filter

The
only service required for the
F.E.E.C.
system
is cleaning the air cleaner filter mounted at the
bottom
of the canister. The filter requires replace­
ment at
12,000
mile intervals. Refer to Section

E,
Par. E-9 for service procedure.

B-25.
Oil Bath Air Cleaner
Some 'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with

an
oil bath type air cleaner.
This
type air cleaner
thoroughly removes all dust from the air before it enters the carburetor, if it is properly serviced.

When
the vehicle is operated under normal condi­
tions the air cleaner must be serviced at regular

intervals
as care of the air cleaner is extremely 13

LUBRICATION

vital
to the life of the
engine.
When the vehicle
is operated under abnormal conditions, (for ex­
ample when driven on secondary roads or through
fields) then service of the air cleaner must be more frequent

Note:
Under extreme continually dusty and dirty
conditions where the vehicle operates in clouds of dust and
dirt,
service the air cleaner daily.

a.
To service the air cleaner on vehicles equipped
with the
Hurricane
F4
engine
(Fig. B-5) unscrew
the eye
bolt
on the oil cup clamp and remove the

oil
cup from the cleaner body. Remove the oil from the cup and scrape all
dirt
from the inside, wash cup clean using a cleaning solution if neces­

sary.
In summer
refill
the oil cup with IV2 pints [0,6 ltrs.] of
SAE-40
or 50 grade
engine
oil. In
winter
refill
using grade
SAE-20
engine
oil. For
servicing the air cleaner
body
(less
oil cup),
loosen

hose
clamp and remove
hose
from the cleaner. Detach breather
hose
from the fitting on the cleaner. Remove the two wing screws and lift the
cleaner from the vehicle. Agitate the cleaner
body

thoroughly in cleaning solution to clean the filtering

element.
Dry
element
with low pressure com­ pressed air. Reinstall the cleaner
body
and replace
the oil cup. Service the air cleaner every
2000
miles
[3.200
km.].
b. To service the oil bath air cleaner on vehicle
equipped with the Dauntless V-6
engine
(Fig. B-6),

first
remove the air cleaner from the carburetor
by unscrewing the wing nut. Remove the oil cup
FIG.
B-5—OIL
BATH AIR
CLEANER
-
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE 1—
Horn
7—Clamp
2—
Flexible
Connector
8—Oil
Cup
3—
Hon
Clamp
9—Clamp

A—Carburetor
Vent Tube 10—Hose 5— Body 11—Clamp
6—
Screw
and
Lock
Washer 13—Gasket
FIG.

B-6—OIL BATH AIR
CLEANER
-
DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE

1—WinB
Nut
2—
Cover

3—
Rubber
Gasket
4—
Cork
Gasket
5—
Oil
Cup 6—
Breather

7—
Clamp

8—
Vent
Tube 9—
Air
Pump Hose from cleaner
body
and remove the oil from the cup,
scrape all
dirt
from the inside.
Clean
oil cup thor­
oughly, wash filter
element
in a solvent that
will
leave it clean and dry.
Fill
oil cup to indicated
level with clean
S.A.E.
40 or 50 grade
engine
oil
(S.A.E.
20 grade in winter.) Assemble cleaner filter

element
to oil cup making sure that gasket is in
place
between
the two pieces. Assemble air cleaner assembly to carburetor making sure the gasket
be­

tween
air cleaner and carburetor is in place. Secure

air
cleaner to carburetor with wing nut. Service the

air
cleaner every
6000
miles
[9.600
km.],
c.
Carefully
check the
hose
clamps and
fittings
on
the breather
hoses
at frequent intervals. Loose con­nections
will
affect proper operation of the
crank­

case ventilating system.

B-26. Dry-Type
Air Cleaner Service the air cleaner on Dauntless V-6
engines

at each oil change under normal driving conditions.

If
the vehicle is operated under dusty conditions,
check the condition of the air cleaner
element
more
frequently and service if dirty.

Servicing
the air cleaner consists of cleaning or replacing the air cleaner
element
and replacing the

crankcase
ventilation filter (breather assembly). See Fig. B-7.

The
air cleaner
element
assembly consists of a
paper
element
and a polyurethane
element
The
paper
element
cannot be cleaned.

To
clean the polyurethane
element,
first carefullly remove it from the paper
element
Then
wash it in 14

B

LUBRICATION
Note:
Hard
shifting of the transmission gear in
cold weather is a positive indication that the
lubri­

cant
is of the wrong viscosity or of poor quality

which
allows it to congeal.

B-38.
Optional
4-Speed
Transmission
and
Transfer Case

The
four-speed transmission and transfer case re­

quire
separate lubrication for each unit as
they
have no cross-over oil passage. At each transmission
service check, the
fill
plugs of
both
four-speed

transmission
and transfer case should be pulled
and
the lubricant refilled to level if necessary.

B-39.
Transfer
Case
Linkage

The
transfer case shift linkage should be lubricated

periodically.
All
bearing surfaces that are assembled
with
studs and cotter pins should be disassembled, cleaned, and coated with a
good
waterproof grease.

The
bearing surfaces that cannot be disassembled
should be lubricated with a lubricant that
will
penetrate the bearing
area.
These bearings include
the two on the cross shaft assembly and the
threaded stud.

The
type
of penetrating lubricant recommended is
DuPont
"PM 7", No. 2911, or its equivalent.

B-40.
Brake Master Cylinder

Clean
the top of the
fill
cap and also the housing

area
around it. Remove the cap and observe the
fluid
level. It should be
half
an inch
below
the top
of the fill-hole. If not, add brake fluid to
half
inch
[1,3 cm.]
below
the top of the fill-hole. Use
only heavy-duty brake fluid conforming to speci­
fication
SAE-J-1703.
Be sure to handle the brake

fluid
in clean dispensers and containers that
will
not introduce even the
slightest
amount of other

liquids
or foreign particles. Replace and tighten
the
fill
cap.

B-41.
Adjust Brakes

Refer
to Section P.
B-42.
Brake Linings

Refer
to Section P.

B-43.
Adjust Clutch

Refer
to Section I.

B-44.
Clutch Cross Shaft (Lever Type)

Lubricate
the clutch cross shaft in accordance with
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see
Item
1. Chassis Bearings.

B-45.
Tie Rod and Drag
Link
Sockets

The
tie rod and drag
link
sockets
are equipped

with
lubrication
fittings
and should be lubricated

per
specifications given in the
Lubrication
chart: see Item 1. Chassis Bearings.
B-46.
Front
and
Rear Spring
Bushings

The
condition of the spring bushings is indicated
by the alignment of the spring pivot and spring
shackle
bolts.
Check
the alignment of
these
bolts,

and
check that nuts are
tightened
securely.

B-47.
Spring
Shackles

Rubber
bushings are provided on the spring
shackles.
These rubber bushings have no lubrication
fitting and it is very important that
they
never be lubricated.

B-48.
Shock Absorbers

Visually
check for broken mounts or bolts, worn

or
missing bushings on the shock absorbers. Refer
to Section S.

B-49.
Front and
Rear
Axle
U-Bolts

Torque
the front and
rear
axle U-bolts. Refer to Section S.

B-50. Front
and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Lubricant Levels

The
lubricant
level of all front and
rear
differentials should be at the level of the fill-hole.

B-51.
Front and
Rear
Axle
Differentials
—
Changing
Lubricant
B-52.
Conventional Differentials

To
remove the lubricant from the front or
rear
differential,
it is necessary to remove the housing cover. Let the lubricant
drain
out, and then flush
the differential with a flushing oil or light
engine

oil
to clean out the housing
(except
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
Differentials). Do not use water, steam,
kerosene, or
gasoline
for flushing.

Reinstall
the housing cover, replacing the gasket whenever necessary, torquing the cover
bolts
to 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4 kg-m.].
Remove the filler plug, and
refill
the differential
housing as specified in the
Lubrication
Specifica­
tions.

B-53.
Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok Differential

Some vehicles may be equipped with the
Powr-Lok

or
Trac-Lok
Differential as optional equipment.
Special
lubricant and ordinary multipurpose gear

lubricants
must
not be used. Use only
'Jeep*
Differ­

ential
Oil,
Part
No. 94557.

Powr-Lok
or
Trac-Lok
differentials may be cleaned
only by disassembling the unit and wiping with
clean
rags. Do not flush the unit. Refer to Sec­
tion N.

B-54.
Front Axle Universal Joint
—
Lube

Check
the level of the front axle universal joint
lubricant
at each front wheel by removing the
fill-hole plug. The lubricant should be level with
the fill-hole. If required, add lubricant as specified

in
Lubrication
Specifications.

B-55.
Front
Axle
Universal
Joint
— Service

On
all 4-wheel drive vehicles the front axle
uni­

versal
joint should be serviced by removing the shaft and thoroughly cleaning the universal joints

and
housing. For the correct procedures, refer to
Section M. 16

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the main bearing caps to the cylinder block. Use
a
lifting bar beneath the ends of each bearing cap.

Be
careful not to exert too much pressure to cause
damage to the cap or
dowels
and pry the caps free.

CAUTION:
If main bearing caps are not removed
carefully
by raising both sides of each cap evenly

until
free of the dowels, the
dowels
may be bent.

A
bent main bearing cap dowel can cause misalign­ ment of the cap and resultant
rapid
bearing wear
necessitating replacement. Therefore, remove each
main
bearing cap carefully. If there is reason to
believe any of the
dowels
have been bent during
the bearing cap removal, remove them and install
new
dowels
as detailed in Par. D-34c.
Remove the upper
half
of the
rear
main bearing

oil
seal from the cylinder block and the lower
half

from
the oil seal
groove
in the
rear
main bearing

cap.
Install
the main bearing caps and bearings on
the cylinder block in their original positions.

Note;
Removal of the crankshaft may be ac­
complished only with the
engine
out of the vehicle.

D-27.
Remove
Exhaust
Valves and Springs
Access to the valve chamber is obtained by re­ moving the attaching parts and the valve spring
cover and gasket from the cylinder block. Use cloths
to block off the three
holes
in the exhaust valve
chamber to prevent the valve retaining locks falling
into the crankcase, should they be accidentally dropped.

With
a valve
/
spring compressor, compress the valve springs on
those
valves which are in the
closed position (valve seated against cylinder

block).
Remove the exhaust valve spring retainer

locks,
the exhaust valve spring retainer, and the exhaust valve spring. Close the other valves by
rotating the camshaft and repeat the above opera­
tion for the other valves in the same manner.
Lift

out all the exhaust valves and tag or place them in
a
rack
to indicate the location where each was re­moved from the cylinder block. If a valve sticks in
the guide and cannot be easily lifted out,
pull
the valve upward as far as possible and remove the

spring.
Lower
the valve and remove any carbon

deposits
from the valve stem.
This
will
permit re­ moval of the valve.

For
intake valve and spring removal, see
Par.
D-l7.

D-28.
Remove Camshaft

a.
Push the intake and exhaust valve tappets into the cylinder block as far as possible so the ends of
the tappets are not in contact with the camshaft. b. Secure each tappet in the raised position by in­
stalling a common clip-type clothes pin on the

shank
of each tappet or tie them up in the valve
chamber.

c. Remove the camshaft thrust plate attaching
screws.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate and

spacer.

d.
Pull
the camshaft forward out of the cylinder
block using care to prevent damage to the cam­
shaft bearing surfaces.
D-29.
Remove Valve Tappets
Remove the intake and exhaust valve tappets from
the
bottom
or crankshaft side of the cylinder block
after the camshaft has been removed. Tag each
tappet or place them in a marked
rack
so they may be reassembled in their original positions.

D-30.
Remove Oil
Gallery
Plugs
Remove the plug at each end of the oil gallery in the cylinder block.
This
operation is only applicable
when the
engine
is out of the vehicle and
will
allow access to the oil gallery so it may be cleaned.

D-31. ENGINE INSPECTION
AND
REPAIR
The
inspection and repair procedures detailed here­

in
are recommended to be followed when a com­
plete
engine
overhaul is to be made with the
engine

out of the vehicle. These instructions can generally be applied individually with the
engine
in the
vehicle. Wherever the procedure differs due to
the
engine
being in the vehicle, the necessary

special
instructions are provided. Inspection and

repair
instructions are included to cover the

cylinder
block, cylinder head, crankshaft and bearings, connecting rods and bearings, oil pump, valves and tappets, pistons and rings, flywheel,
timing gears, and the camshaft and bearings. In addition, fitting operations for
these
engine
com­

ponents
are included.

Important:
Before the inspection and repair pro­
cedures listed below are begun, the
engine
serial
number must be checked for the presence of
code

letters denoting undersize bearings or oversize
pistons. Refer to Par. D-2.

D-32.
Cylinder
Block

The
cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and repaired as detailed in the following

paragraphs.

D-33.
Cleaning

The
cylinder block may be steam cleaned or cleaned

with
a suitable solvent. A scraper is recommended
to remove
hard
deposits, except on highly finished surfaces. Special attention must be directed to the
cleaning of the oil passages, valve chamber,
crank­

case, and cylinder walls to remove all sludge,
dirt

and
carbon deposits. After cleaning, use air pressure to dry the block thoroughly.
D-34. Inspection

Examine
the cylinder block for minute cracks and

fractures.
Rusted valve springs or evidence of rust

in
the valve chamber or the cylinder walls is a
good

indication of a possible
crack
in the block,

a.
Examine all machined surfaces of the cylinder block for
burrs
and scores.
Check
for cylinder block
distortion by placing a straight
edge
along the
length of the cylinder head surface of the block.
With
a feeler
gauge,
check for clearance
between
the straight
edge
and the block, particularly be­
tween adjacent cylinders. Maximum permissible
out of line for service is .010"
[0,254
mm.] over the
full
length of the block. 45

'Jeep5
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Driver
W-238 is equipped
with
an
adapter
ring

which
correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23. Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end
first,
into
the valve guide bore in the top of the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly
1
"
[25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24.
Start
a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the
bottom
of the cylinder

head.
When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.

Run
a reamer (Tool
C-3 8)
through the new
guides

after they have been correctly positioned.

D-62. Tappets
and
Cover

The
valve tappets are lubricated through oil troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends

and
passages are drilled through the tappet
guides
to
carry
the oil to the tappets. A
groove
around the center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and down the guide.

Check
the threads and fit of the exhaust valve ad­

justing
screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit of a screw should be such that a wrench is required to
turn
it into or out of the tappet as
these
are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is
loose­

ness
between
the parts.
D-63.
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal

Oil
leakage through the
rear
main bearing is pre­ vented by a metal supported neoprene lip type

seal
which can readily be installed without remov­
ing the crankshaft.

Should
trouble be experienced with oil leaking

from
the
rear
main bearing there are several points

which
should be checked.

a.
Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing
cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.

b.
The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029"
[0,0736
mm.].

c.
Place sealer on the faces of the
rear
bearing cap

from
the
rear
oil
groove
to the oil seal grooves.

d-
Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34" [6 mm.] below the
bottom
face of the cap.

e.
Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f.
Check
to be sure the oil leak is not at the cam­
shaft
rear
bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.

D-64.
Floating Oil
Intake •
Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.

The
floating oil intake is attached to the
bottom

of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan.
This
prevents water or
dirt,
which
may have accumulated in the
bottom

of the oil pan, from circulating through the
engine

because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top

surface.
Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
accumulation
of
dirt.
Also clean the oil pan.

Fluctuating
oil pressure can usually be traced to

an
air leak
between
the oil float support and the

crankcase.

Be
sure the float support flange is flat.
Clean
both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. Oil
Pump

The
oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the

crankcase
through the floating oil intake then passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through

drilled
passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump,
first remove the distributor cover and
note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without dis­

turbing
the timing, the pump gear must be cor­

rectly
meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow
engagement
of the key on the distributor shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can
be installed only in one position as the slot and

driving
key are machined off-center.

The
oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor

within
the pump body. An oil relief valve is mounted in the pump body which controls the oil

pressure.
To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first remove the gear which is retained by straight

pin.
It
will
be necessary to file off one end of the
pin
before driving it out with a small drift. By re­
moving the cover the outer rotor and the inner

rotor
and shaft may be removed through the cover opening.
Failure
of the pump to operate at

full
efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance be­ tween the rotors. The clearance
between
the outer

rotor
and the pump body should also be checked.
Match
the rotors
together
with one
lobe
of the inner

rotor
pushed as far as possible into the notch of the outer rotor. Measure the clearance
between
the

lobes
of the rotors as shown in
Fig.
D-28.
This
clear­ ance should be .010"
[0,254
mm.] or less.
If
more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance

between
the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed .012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. End float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the cover gasket which is made of special material that

can
be only slightly compressed. Never use other

than
a standard factory gasket.
Check
the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored

and
that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.]
tested

with
feeler
gauges,
Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump body and install the cover without the gasket.
When
the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference
between
the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to
turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re- 57

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE d.
Remove the intake valve adjusting screw lock-
nuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash ad­

justing
screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.

D-76.
Inspection and
Repair

Run
a round wire brush through the bore of the

rocker
arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean
out the oil
holes
in the rocker arm shaft

brackets,
and the oil
holes
and
grooves
in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect
the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm

bearing
areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores

or
abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check
the shaft for alignment by rolling it across

a
smooth level surface. If the shaft
will
not
roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect
the threads of the adjusting screw
hole
in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a

proper
size tap. Replace the adjusting screw lock-
nut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged

or
deformed.

Inspect
the threads in the tapped
hole
in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary

clean
with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket

if
either side is worn or scored.

D-77.
Reassembly

a.
Install
two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two
rocker
arm
shaft brackets
onto
the center of the shaft. Align the tapped
holes

in
the brackets with the drilled
holes
in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws,
making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled
holes
in the shaft.

b.
Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.

c.
The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms
are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the

adjusting
screw end of the rocker arm angling

away
from the bracket
onto
the shaft so that the
adjusting
screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting
hole
in the bracket.

d.
Temporarily
secure the end bracket in place by
installing
a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the
opposite
end of the
rocker
arm shaft repeating
steps
c and d above.

D-78. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The
engine
reassembly procedure in the following

paragraphs
is given in the sequence to be followed
when the
engine
is being completely overhauled.
Individual
inspection,
repair,
and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly pro­
cedure
does
not cover accessories. If a new cylinder

block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations
will
not be required.
Mount
the cylinder block in an
engine
repair stand.
If
an
engine
stand is not available, perform the fol­
lowing reassembly operation in a manner designed to protect personnel against an accident and the

engine
and its parts against damage.

Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray
Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all
engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and

water
leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water
pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts,
spark
plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's in­
structions on container for proper application pro­
cedure.

D-79.
Install
Oil
Gallery
Plug

Coat
plug threads with a suitable sealing compound

and
install the plugs in the front and
rear
ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the
rear

end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

There
is also a pipe plug
(}/g,f
[3,2 mm.] slotted, headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and another pipe plug
(}/g
"
square-head) in the opening

in
the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If
these
two pipe plugs were removed,
make
certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the

crankshaft
might strike the projecting head of the
square-head
plug.

D-80.
Install
Tappets

Turn
the block upside down. Beginning at the

rear
end of the cylinder block, install the intake

and
exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally
one exhaust valve tappet.

Check
the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block

clearance
tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is
exceeded
install a new tappet fitting
within
this tolerance or ream the bore to accomo­ date the next oversize tappet which is available

in
.004" oversize.

D-81.
Install
Camshaft and
Thrust
Plate

Lubricate
all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces generously with clean, light
engine
oil.
Carefully,

so not to damage or score the camshaft front bear­
ing,
install the camshaft, locating it properly in the bearings. Do not allow the
rear
end of the cam­shaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug

installed
in the
rear
end of the bore.
Install
the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer
onto
the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner
edge
of the spacer facing the cam­
shaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install
any shims previously removed. These shims
are
placed
between
the camshaft shoulder and the

spacer.
Torque the thrust plate attaching
bolts
20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].

End
play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance
between
the
rear
face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance 62