1953 JEEP DJ ad blue

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-2
2—REFACING
VALVES
1—
Valve
Refacer

2—
Valve
a
dial
indicator as shown in
Fig.
D-21 after refacing.

The
valve seat should not be out of round more

than
.002"
[0,051
mm.]. A simple check can be
made in the absence of a
dial
indicator by spreading
a
thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-fitting blue on
the valve face and then inserting the valve into the valve seat.
With
hand pressure, rotate the valve

a
quarter
turn
and then remove the valve and ob­
serve the transfer of blue (or pencil lead) to the valve seat. An uneven transfer
will
indicate an

inaccurate
valve and valve seat refacing operation.

After
the seat is ground, check its width with a
seat width scale or a steel scale placed across the
face of the seat. The valve seat width after refacing
should measure [2,3 mm.] and not wider than
y%"
[3,2 mm.]. Valve seat width is
vital.
Too wide

a
seat can cause seat burning as it
tends
to trap

and
hold carbon particles. Seats that are too
narrow

will
not transfer heat to the coolant rapidly enough to keep the valves in proper operating condition.

When
a valve seat has been refaced several times

or
where it must be cut deeply for adequate recon­
ditioning, the seat may
become
too wide for efficient
operation. Narrow the seat without changing its
position in relation to the valve face by using a
valve seat relief counterbore above the seat and a valve seat narrowing cutter below the seat. These
operations are performed only after the valve
seats
have been refaced and then only when necessary.

The
finished valve seat should contact the approxi­mate center of the valve face.
Check
by applying

an
extremely thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-
fitting blue to the seat.
Then
install and rotate the
valve with light pressure. Blue (or pencil
marks)

will
transfer to the face of the valve. If the blue
is near the top
edge
of the valve face, lower the valve seat by using the valve seat relief counter-
bore. If the blue is transferred to the
bottom
edge

of the valve face, raise the seat by using the valve
seat narrowing cutter.

When
the valve seat can no longer be corrected, it
is advisable to investigate installing seat inserts.

D-60.
Exhaust
Valve Seat Insert Replacement

Hardened
valve seat inserts for exhaust valves
will

seldom require replacement. To avoid damaging the blcck, remove an insert with a tool designed for
this purpose.

When
installing a new insert, make certain the
counterbore is clean and smooth. Use a driver that

will
keep the insert in true alignment with the bore.

Cool
the insert and the installing tool with dry ice
for 30 minutes.

Note:
The insert should be sufficiently cooled
to permit installation with light taps; excessive

driving
of the insert may cock it in the counterbore

or
crack the insert.

Make
certain the valve seat is facing out.
Drive

in
the insert with the tool until it
bottoms
in the counterbore. After installation, grind the valve
seat at an angle of 45° and then check with a
dial

indicator
as shown in Fig. D-21.
D-61.
Valve Guide Replacement

Damaged,
loose,
or worn valve
guides
must be re­

placed.
Use valve guide driver W-238 or equivalent
to drive out the old guides. When replacing valve
guides, maximum
engine
performance can be se­

cured
only when the guide is positioned correctly
FIG.
D-23—VALVE
GUIDE
DRIVER

FIG.
D-24—VALVE
GUIDE
POSITIONS

1—Flush
at
this
point
2—One
Inch
[25
mm.
I

56

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

FIG.
D1-28—CLEANING
OR
ENLARGING
VALVE
GUIDE

1—Reamer
d.
Measure clearance of each valve stem in cor­
responding valve guide. For intake valves, this
clearance
should be .0012" to .0032" [0,0305 a

0,0813
mm.]. For exhaust valves, this clearance should be .0015" to .0035"
[0,0381
a
0,0889
mm.]
at top of guide and .002" to .004"
[0,051
a 0,102 mm.] at bottom of guide. If this clearance is exces­
sive, valve guides must be reamed with .004" [0,102 mm.] oversized reamer J-5830-1 and valves

replaced
by new valves with oversize stems.

Dl-63.
Cylinder
Head
and Valve
Repair
a.
If a valve stem has excessive clearance in its
guide, the guide must be reamed .004" [0,102 mm.]
oversize. Valves are available with oversize stems
to fit this valve guide diameter.

b.
Grind
valve faces or replace valves if necessary.

Valve
faces must be ground at an angle of 45 degrees. If a valve head must be ground to a
knife
edge
to obtain a true face, the valve should
be replaced.

c.
If necessary, grind valve seats at an angle of 45 degrees.
Grinding
a valve seat decreases valve
spring
pressure and increases the width of the seat.

The
nominal width of the valve seat is
[
1,59
mm.].
If a valve seat is wider than %" [1,98 mm.]
after grinding, it should be narrowed to specified

width
by the use of 20-degree and 70-degree stones.
Improper
operation of a hydraulic valve lifter may

result
if valve and seat are refinished to the extent
that the valve stem is raised more than .050" [1,27 mm.] above normal height. In this case, it
is necessary to grind off the end of the valve stetti or replace parts.

Note:
The normal height of the valve stem above
the valve spring seat surface of the head is
1.925"
[4,889 cm.].

d.
Lightly
lap the valves into seats with fine grind­
ing compound. The refacing and reseating should
leave the refinished surfaces smooth and true so that a minimum of lapping
will
be required. Ex­
cessive lapping
will
groove the valve face and pre­
vent
good
valve seating.
e. Test valve seats for concentricity with guides,
and
for proper valve seating. Coat a small segment
of the valve face lightly with Prussian blue pig­ ment.. Insert the valve stem into its guide and

turn
the valve face against the seat. If the valve seat is concentric with the valve guide, a
mark

will
be made all around the seat. If the seat is not concentric with the guide, a
mark
will
be made
on only one side of the seat.

Clean
all pigment from both valve and seat. .Next,
coat a small segment of the valve seat lightly with

Prussian
blue pigment. Again insert the valve stem into its guide and rotate the valve face against the
seat. If the valve face is concentric with the valve
stem, and if the valve is seating all the way around,
pigment
will
coat the valve face with a uniform
band
around its entire perimeter. Both of
these

tests
are necessary to prove that proper valve seat­
ing is obtained.
f. Inspect the valve springs visually for corrosion,

breaks,
and distortion.
With
a valve spring tester
check
each valve spring for proper tension. When

a
valve spring is compressed to a length of
1.640"
[4,166 cm.] (closed-valve condition), it should
have a tension of 64 lb. [29,03 kg.]. When a valve
spring
is compressed to a length of
1.260"
[3,200
cm.] (open-valve condition), it should have ten­ sion of 168 lb. [76,205 kg.]. Replace any valve
spring
which is visibly damaged or
does
not
meet

tension specifications.

Dl-64.
Valve Installation

Lubricate
valve stems with engine oil.
Install
valves, valve springs, spring retainers, and valve

retainers
on the cylinder head. Use the same equipment and reverse procedure used for removal.

Install
valve springs with closely wound coils to­

ward
the cylinder head. Refer to Fig. Dl-29.
FIG.
Dl-29—VALVE
SPRING

1—
Spring

2—
Close
Wound
Coils
Toward
Head
94

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

N
REAR AXLE

11874

FIG.
N-33—INSTALLING INNER OIL SEALS — MODEL 27 FRONT
AXLE
DIFFERENTIAL g. Remove the indicator.

h.
Lubricate bearings and place the differential in
the
carrier.

i.
Tap the unit carefully
into
place with
soft
mal­let, making sure the ring gear
teeth
mesh with the
pinion
teeth.

j.
Install bearing caps, matching their markings
with
those
on the
carrier.

k. Apply sealing compound to the screw threads.

Torque
the screws 70 to 90 lb-ft. [9,68 a 12,44
kg-m.].

I.
Install dial indicator to check ring gear back­
lash
(Fig. N-34). Check backlash at two points.

Backlash
must be held
between
.005" to .010"
[0,127
a
0,254
mm.]. If backlash
does
not fall with­

in
specifications, shims should be interchanged be­
tween
the two differential bearing shim packs until
correct backlash is obtained.

Note:
Changing the position of a .005"
[0,127
mm.]
shim from one side to the other
will
change the
amount of backlash approximately .003"
[0,076
mm.].

m. Check ring gear for runout. A reading in
excess

of .006"
[0,152
mm.] indicates a sprung differential
case, dirt
between
the case and the gear, or
loose

ring
gear screws.

n.
In order to assist in determining whether the
gears are properly adjusted, paint the bevel gear

teeth
with red lead or prussion blue and turn the
bevel gear so the pinion
will
make an impression on the
teeth.
The correct procedure to
follow
in the

event
of an unsatisfactory
tooth
contact is shown
in Fig.
N-35.
o. After the differential has
been
assembled and
adjusted, the pinion shaft oil seal should be in­
stalled.
THE
HEEL
OF
GEAR TOOTH
IS THE
LARGE

END,
AND THE TOE IS THE
SHALL
END.

WORKING DEPTH

TOO
MUCH BACK LASH
MOVE GEAR TOWARD PINION
TOO
LITTLE BACK LASH
MOVE GEAR AWAY FROM PINION

\:
US33

FIG.
N-34—CHECKING RING GEAR BACKLASH
MOVE
PINION
OUT

AWAY FROM RING GEAR MOVE PINION
IN

TOWARD RING GEAR
CORRECT SETTING COMPROMISE SETTING
10547

FIG.
N-35—GEAR
TOOTH CONTACT 300

p
BRAKES
c. To assemble the brake unit, place the
shoes
on
the backing plates and secure with the
shoe
hold
down pin and clip. Place the adjusting lever on the
secondary
shoe
web making sure the
slot
in the lever
engages
to full depth with the
slot
in the
shoe

web. The adjuster levers are painted RED for right hand brakes and
BLUE
for
left
hand brakes.

d.
Install the adjusting screw assemblies. The star
wheel must be installed over the adjusting
hole
in the backing plate.

Notes
Interchanging adjusting screw assemblies

will
cause
shoe
to retract rather than expand.
e. Assemble the lower spring that
fastens
to the
two
shoe
webs.
THE LONG HOOK
END should
be secured in the small
hole
in the secondary
shoe

and
should be
UNDER
the
shoe
web. The short hook end should be secured in the small
hole
in the

primary
shoe.
If the spring is installed correctly,
the long hook end
will
not interfere with either the lever or the star wheel
teeth.

f. Install the anchor block with arrow pointing in the forward direction of the drum rotation. Place the
guide
plate over the anchor pin and using Tool
C-3
785 install the
shoe
return springs (secondary

spring
first) with the long hook end flat against the
guide
plate.
g. Install the lever crank in the small
hole
on the secondary
shoe
web, the
left
lever crank on the left,
and
right lever crank on the right. A
"L"
or
"R"
is
located on the
hexagon
side of the crank for identi­
fication.
Make
certain the lever rotates freely on
the
hexagon
head screw.

fi.
Assemble the short wire link with large hook by

first
inserting the "S" shape
offset
end
into
the
lever crank
hole
which is
closest
to the
hexagon

head and then snap the hook end of the link in the top
groove
of the anchor pin.
i.
Insert the long link with "S" shaped end in the

crank
lever.
Lift
the adjuster lever up
enough
to hook the link in the
slot
of the adjusting lever. The
adjusting lever
will
then
engage
the star wheel

teeth
between
M%
[1,59 mm.]
above
or
below
the centerline of adjusting screw assembly,
j.
Lubricate the wheel bearings and install the

brake
drum and adjust the wheel bearing to the proper preload.
k. Adjust the brakes as described in Par. P-19.

INSTALLING
THE
REAR BRAKE SHOES

Refer
to Fig. P-ll.

a.
Inspect the platforms of the backing plates for
nicks
or
burrs.
Apply a thin coat of lubricant to
the backing plates platforms.
b. On vehicles without a transmission brake,
attach the parking brake lever to the back side of
the secondary
shoe.

c. Place the secondary and a primary
shoe
in their relative position on a work bench.

Note:
Primary
brake linings are color coded red

and
green. Secondary brake linings are color coded
white and green.

d.
Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw
and
install it
between
the primary and secondary

shoes
with the star wheel installed over the adjust­ing
hole
in the backing plate. The threaded
ends
of
the star adjusting
wheels
are stamped
"R"
and
"L"
indicating thread rotation.

The
left
rear brake adjusting screw has
left
hand
thread rotation and the right rear brake adjusting screw has right hand thread rotation.
e. Overlap the anchor
ends
of the primary and the secondary brake
shoes
and install the lower

return
spring.