1953 JEEP DJ gas type

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT- HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
1—Temperature
Sending Unit

b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

The
thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in
the left
rear
area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.

G-ll.
WATER PUMP

a.
Hurricane
F4 Engine.

The
water pump on the
Hurricane
F4
engine
is a

centrifugal
impeller type of large capacity to
cir­

culate water in the entire cooling system. The double row
ball
bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which
will
last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant
and prevent
dirt
and dust from entering.

The
bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water
seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintain­
ing a constant pressure against both and preventing

water
leakage. A
drain
hole
in the
bottom
of the
pump body precludes any water
seepage
past the

seal
from entering the bearing.
The
impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b.
Dauntless V-6 Engine.

A
centrifugal-type water pump, shown in
Fig.
G-10,

circulates
coolant through the Dauntless V-6
engine

and
its cooling system.
This
pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover.
Similar
to the
engine
cooling
fan
mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a
V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.

Coolant
enters the water pump at its center.
Centri­

fugal force then forces coolant radially outward, through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket.
This

water
pump has a sealed double row
ball
bearing
and
a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be

serviced.
In
event
of bearing or water seal failure, the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2.
Water
Pump Inspection

Check
the water pump for leaks, and excessive end play or
looseness
of the shaft in the pump. A

quick
way to check is to work the fan blades up
and
down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bear­ings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.

G-13.
Water Pump
Disassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.

a.
Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.

b.
Remove the
bolts
attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.

c.
Remove the bearing retainer spring.

d.
Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a suitable puller.

e.
Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and

bearing
slinger.

G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly
—
Hurricane
F4
Engine

•
Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal
seat in the pump body and should it be rough,

install
a new pump body.

To
reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the

FIG.
G-9—WATER
PUMP-
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Fan
and Pump Pulley
2—
Bearing
and Shaft

3—
Bearing
Retainer Spring

A—Pipe
Plug 5—
Pump
Body
6—
Seal
Washer 7—
Pump
Seal
8—
Impeller

9—
Gasket
167

G
COOLING SYSTEM G-20.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY

Overheating:
Lack
of Coolant Refill radiator
Thermostat inoperative . Replace thermostat
Water
pump inoperative. Overhaul or replace
Incorrect
ignition or valve timing. Set
engine
timing
Excessive piston blowby Check pistons, rings and cylinder walls
Fan
belt
broken or badly worn Replace
belt

Radiator
clogged
Reverse flush and clean
Air
passages
in core
clogged
Clean with water and air pressure
Excessive carbon formation. Remove carbon from cylinder head(s) Muffler
clogged
or
bent
exhaust
pipe
Replace damaged part

Loss
of Cooling
Liquid:
Loose
hose
connections
Tighten
connections

Damaged
hose
Replace
hose

Leaking
water pump Overhaul or replace

Leak
in radiator Remove and repair
Leaky
cylinder head
gasket
Replace
gasket
Crack
in cylinder block. Small crack can be closed with
Radiator
or Block Sealer

G-21. COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS

Radiator
Cap:
Relief
Pressure

Vacuum
Valve Release.
Thermostat:
Rating

Starts to Open

Fully
Open

Water
Pump:
Type.

Drive

Radiator:

Type

Cooling System Capacity: Without Heater

With
Heater..

Fan:
Number of Blades Diameter

Drive
Belt: Angle of V

Length
Width
HURRICANE
F4
7 and 15 psi. [0,5 kg-cm2 and 1,05 kg cm2]
lA to 1 psi. [0,04 a 0,07 kg-cm2]

190°F.
[87,8°C]
180°F.
[82°C]

202°F.
[94°C]

Centrifugal
V-Belt

Tube
8s Fin
11 qt. [10,4 ltr.] 12 qt. [11,5 ltr.]
15" [38 cm.]
38°

42%" [108 cm.] [1,74 cmJ
DAUNTLESS
V-6 15 psi. [1,05 kg-cm2]
1 psi. [0,07 kg-cm2]

190°F.
[87,8°C]
180°F.
[82°C]

202°F.
[94°C]

Centrifugal
V-Belt

Tube
& Fin
9 qt. [8.5 ltr.]
10 qt. [9,4 ltr.]
4

\SbA"
[39,7 cm.]

38°

43.92"
[111,5
cm.] Vg"
[0.952
cm.] G-22. ANTIFREEZE CHERT

Quarts
i
Quarts
Ethylene Glycol

U.S.
Imperial
Liters
Fahr.
Cent.

10-Quart
System

2
m
2

16°
-
8.8°

3
2V2
2%
4°

-15.5°

4
3H
-12°

-24.4°

5 4M -34°

-36.6°

6
5

5Vs
-62°

-52.2°

11-Quart
System

2 2

18° -
7.6°

3 2H
2%
8°

-13.3°

4
3%
-
6°

:
-21.10

5 4M 4M -23°

-30.5°

6
5

SVs
-47°

-43.8°

12-Quart
System

2
1 m 2 1

19° ;
- 7.2°

3
2*A
10°
!
-12.2°

4
I
3H
3M 0°
;
-17.7°

5 !
4M 4^ :
-15°

s
-26.1°

6 1 5
5%
-34°

-36.6°
170

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
H

FIG.
H-52—MAIN
LIGHT SWITCH (LATE)
1—
Circuit
Breaker

2—
Light
Switch

3—
Rear
Lights

4—
Head
Lights
5—
Parking
Lights
The
light switch shown in
Fig.
H-51 was superseded
by the one shown in
Fig.
H-52.

H-127.
Headlight Dimmer Switch To
remove the headlight dimmer switch, first raise
the hood and disconnect the wires attached to the

switch.
Then
remove the two screws that hold the

dimmer
switch to the floor board. Remove the

switch.
Check
the operation of the dimmer switch

with
a
test
light. A
circuit
across two different pairs of contacts (one to headlights, the other to the
high-beam indicator light) should alternately light
the
test
lamp when the switch is operated.
H-128.
Stop Light Switch
The
stop
light switch is of the diaphragm type.

Should
the switch
become
inoperative, it is neces­

sary
to install a new one.
Current
production vehicles are equipped with two
stop
light switches
that operate independently of each other. Both
switches are located along the
left
side of frame, in the front and
rear
brake lines.

Caution:
Do not apply the brakes while making
this exchange as air may enter the hydraulic line.
Bleed
the brakes after replacing the switch.

Fig.
H-54 shows the wiring of the
stop
light
circuit.
11500

FIG.
H-53—STOP
LIGHT SWITCH
FIG.
H-54—STOP
LIGHT CIRCUIT

1— Stop
Light
Switch
2—
Light
Switch

3—
Tail
Light
H-129. Head Lamp Service

H-130.
Head Lamp Replacement

Refer
to Fig. H-59.

Each
sealed beam head lamp can only be replaced as a
complete
unit.

A
sealed beam unit may be replaced by the fol­ lowing procedure:

a.
Remove door screw.

b.
Remove door.

c.
Remove retaining screws and retaining
ring.

d.
Remove sealed beam unit.
Installation
of sealed beam unit is the reverse of
above procedure. When replacing head lamps,

check
lamp aim following procedures described in

Par.
H-132.

FIG.
H-55—PARKING
LIGHT (EARLY)

1—
Bezel

2—
Lens

3—
Bulb

4—
Gasket
5—
Housing
and Cable

6—
Screw
213

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14385

FIG.
H-61—BACK-UP
LIGHT
1—
Snap
Ring
2—
Lens

3—
Gasket

4—
Bulb
5—
Housing
and
Cable
On
late production
T14A
transmissions the backup
light switch is threaded into the right
rear
corner
of the cover housing and is activated by the move­
ment of the reverse shift
rail.

The
backup light switch is not serviceable and
must be replaced if defective.

Bulbs
can be replaced by removing the snap
ring,

lens and gasket from the assembly.

H-136.
License Plate
Light

On
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A
and current production vehicles
the license plate light is attached to the tailgate
and
is of the swing-type design to enable the
license plate to be visible when the tailgate is in
the down psoition. The bulb can be changed by
removing
the clear plastic lens. On early production
vehicles the license plate light is integral with the

tail
light assembly.

H-137.
Horn
The
horn is mounted under the hood on the
left

front
fender. The horn is sounded by pressing the
button located at the top center of the steering
wheel.

To
remove the horn wire, disconnect the wire at
the snap connection at the base of the steering
column.
Pull
off the rubber horn button cap and
the brass contact cap from the steering wheel nut.

This
will
expose
the contact tip of the horn wire.

Pull
the wire out of the steering column from the top. Refer to Fig. H-62.

H-13S.
Directional
Signals

Fig.
H-63 shows the
wiring
of a
composite
direction­

al
signal
circuit.
The most frequent causes of
failure
in
the directional signal system are
loose
connec­
tions and burned-out bulbs. A flashing rate

approximately
twice the normal rate usually in­
dicates a burned-out bulb in the
circuit.
11087

FIG.
H-62—HORN
BUTTON 1—
Cap
2— Nut
3—
Horn
Button
Spring
Cup 4—
Ferrule

5—
Horn
Cable

6—
Contact
Disc

7—
Steering
Wheel
8—
Cup
9—
Bearing
Spring
Seat
10—
Steering
Column

11—
Tube

12—
Bearing

13—
Bearing
Spring

14—
Horn
Button
Spring

15—
Retainer
Spring
When
trouble in the signal switch is suspected it
is advisable to make the following
test
to definitely
locate the trouble before
going
to the effort of

removing
the signal switch. If, for example, the
right
rear
stop
light and right front parking light

are
inoperative and switch failure is indicated, first put the control lever in neutral position.
Then

disconnect the wire to the right side
circuit
and
touch it to or bridge it to the
"L"
terminal, thus
by-passing the signal switch. If the right side cir- 10609

FIG.
H-63—DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL
CIRCUIT

1—
Flasher

2—
Ignition
Switch

3—
Control
4—
Light
Switch
5— Stop
Light
Switch
216

J

THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION
before
the unit is installed in the vehicle. When
doing this, use care that the countershaft and

reverse
idler shaft lock plate shown in Fig. J-8
is correctly positioned in the recess in the transfer case housing.
Three
\
Y%"
long [2,86 cm.] screws and
two 1" long [2,54 cm.] screws are used to attach the

transfer
case housing to the transmission housing.
Install
the 1" long [2,54 cm.] screws in the lower

left
and lower right mounting holes.
FIG.
J-12—SYNCHRONIZER
SPRINGS

J-12.
Transmission — T96

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6

a.
Remove the shift housing and gasket from the top of the transmission case if it has not
been
pre­ viously removed. The shift housing can be disas­
sembled, if necessary, at this point by removing the
shift
rails
and forks from the shift housing. Use

care
and do not
lose
the
poppet
balls and springs.

b.
Drain
the lubricant from housing and wash
the assembly with a suitable solvent.

c.
Remove the screws from the front main bearing

retainer
and remove retainer.
d.
Remove nut which attaches the companion

flange
to the main shaft; also the flat washer and

lock
washer.

e.
Remove the companion
flange
with special puller

tool
W-172.
f. Remove the screws attaching the
rear
bearing

retainer
to case and remove retainer and gasket.
g. Remove oil seal
speedometer
drive gear and
main
shaft
rear
bearing from the bearing retainer.

h.
Remove the reverse idler and countershaft

lock
plate.

i.
Using
tool
W-193 or a
soft
drift, drive the
countershaft out through the
rear
of the case allow­
ing the counterhsaft gears to drop to the
bottom

of the case.

j.
Remove the main drive gear with bearing
through the front of the case.
Note
that this gear cannot be removed when the countershaft gears are
in
position.
Take
care when removing this gear not
to misplace the thirteen
needle
type
rollers in the
gear end of the shaft which make up the main shaft
pilot bearing.

k.
Remove the main shaft snap
ring,
the main
shaft bearing snap ring and the mainshaft bearing

which
is grooved, from the main shaft.
I.
Remove the bronze blocking ring then remove
the clutch hub and synchronizer assembly through
the top.

m.
Remove the low and reverse sliding gears and
the constant mesh gear and main shaft in one unit,
through the top.

n.
Remove the countershaft gears through the
top.
Take
care not to misplace the twenty rollers at each end of the long spacer as well as the two

thrust
washers and the two roller spacer bearings,

o.
Using a
soft
drift, drive the reverse idler shaft
out toward the
rear
and remove the gear.

J-13.
Transmission Cleaning and Inspection
Refer
to Fig. J-7.

a.
Wash the transmission case inside and
outside

with
cleaning solvent.

b.
Check
bearing and shaft bores. Inspect the case
for
cracks.
Check
the front and
rear
faces
and dress off any
burrs
with a fine
mill
file. If cracks

are
found or the bores are not true, replace the case.

c.
Clean
and inspect all gears and bronze blocking
rings
for
cracks,
chipped or cracked
teeth,
or ex­
cessive wear of the
teeth.

Note:
Whenever any transmission gear requires
replacement, the gear with which it
meshes
should also be replaced.

d.
Inspect all bushings and bearings for wear or damage.

e.
Check
low-and-reverse sliding gear for freedom
of
movement
on the main shaft.
f.
Check
the intermediate-and-high clutch
sleeve
to see that it slides freely on the intermediate-and-
high clutch hub.
J-14. Transmission Reassembly
—-
T96
a.
Position the reverse idler gear in the case and
install
the shaft using care that the
slot
at the shaft
end is correctly aligned to receive the lock plate.

b.
To assemble the countershaft gear, it is neces­

sary
to use Tool W-193 or equivalent
Fig. J-9.
Place
the special
tool
through the gear set and insert the
long spacer positioning it at the center of the gear
set. Place a set of twenty rollers at each end of the

spacer
followed by a spacing washer at each end.

A
small amount of grease
will
hold the spacing

washer
in position. Place the assembled counter­ shaft gear set in the
bottom
of the case with the
large gear toward the front.

C*
Install
the
rear
main shaft bearing on the main shaft with the closed side of the bearing toward
the front or low end of the shaft. Replace the bear­
ing snap ring and main shaft snap
ring,

d.
Pass the front end of the main shaft through the
rear
bearing opening and assemble the low and 248

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

reverse sliding gear on the shaft with the shifting

fork
groove
toward the rear.
e. Assemble the
second
speed
gear on the shaft
with the
teeth
which
engage
in the clutch
sleeve

toward the front of the case.
f.
Next,
assemble
the synchronizer unit. The as­ sembly
sequence
of the synchronizer is shown in

Fig.
J-12.
First
install the two springs in the high
and intermediate clutch hub. These springs must
be installed with the spring
tension
opposed.
Place the right lipped end of a spring in a
slot
of the
hub and place the spring in the hub.
Turn
the hub
around and make exactly the same installation
with the other spring starting with the same
slot.
Fig.
J-5. Install the three synchronized shifting

plates
in the three
slots
in the hub with the
smooth

side
of the
plates
out. Hold the
plates
in
position

and slip the
second
and direct
speed
clutch
sleeve
over the hub. Install the two blocking rings one
one each
side
of the hub.
g. Place
some
heavy
grease
in the main shaft
pilot and
position
the thirteen
needle
type
roller bearings.

h.
Install the main drive gear. If the bearing has

been
removed,
note
that the closed
side
is assembled
toward the inside of the case.

i.
Enter
the main shaft bearing in the case and

assemble
the shaft in position.

j.
Install the front bearing retainer. k. For
ease
in installing the countershaft, turn the
transmission case over to allow the gears to mesh.

With
the countershaft thrust washers correctly
positioned,
start the countershaft through the rear
of the case with the lock plate
slot
toward the rear
and the
slot
in alignment with the
slot
in the
12879

FIG.
J-13—T14A
THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

1—
Retainer
Screws
2—
Main
Drive
Gear
Bearing Retainer
3—
Retainer
Gasket
4—
Oil
Seal 5— Snap Ring (small)
6— Snap Ring (large) 7—
Main
Drive
Gear
Bearing
8—
Oil
Retaining Washer (slinger)
9—
Main
Drive
Gear

10— Mainshaft Pilot Bearing Rollers
11—
Case

12— Nut
13—
Flatwasher

14— Spacer 15—
Bearing
Adapter
16— Snap Ring

17—
Mainshaft Bearing
18— Reverse
Gear

19— Snap Ring
20—
Low
Synchronizer Assembly 21— Synchronizer Blocking Ring 22—
Low
Gear

23— Mainshaft
24— Second
Gear

25— Synchronizer Blocking Ring
26—
Second-Third
Synchronizer Assembly
27— Synchronizer Blocking Ring
28— Snap Ring 29— Countershaft Front Thrust Washer (large)
30— Countershaft
Gear

31— Reverse Idler
Gear
Bearing Washer
32— Reverse Idler
Gear
Roller Bearings 33— Reverse Idler
Gear
34— Countershaft
Rear
Thrust Washer (small)
35— Countershaft Bearing Spacer Washer* 36— Reverse Idler Shaft
37— Countershaft Roller Bearings
38— Spacer Washer
39— Countershaft
40—
Lockplate

249