1953 JEEP DJ gas type

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

O
column assembly down through the floor pan open­
ing and out from under vehicle.
0-24.
Disassembly
of
Steering
Gear
Refer
to Fig. 0-2.

When
the steering gear arm is installed on early
production vehicles, the line across the face of the

arm
and the end of the shaft should be in align­ ment. On later production vehicles, blind splines
on the lever shaft and in the steering gear arm en­

sure
correct positioning of the arm.

a.
Remove the steering gear arm with a puller
C-3646.

Caution:
Do not use a hammer or
wedge
to re­
move
the steering arm from the shaft and lever.

This
can cause damage to the shaft assembly.

b.
Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting

screw
two turns.

c.
Remove the side cover screws and washers. Re­
move
the side cover and gasket.

d.
Remove lever shaft.

e.
Remove upper cover plate screws. Remove cam,
wheel tube, and bearing assembly from the housing.
f.
Clean
all parts with suitable cleaning solvent and wipe dry.

g.
After dismantling as outlined above is com­
pleted, inspect cam
grooves
for wear, chipping and
scoring,
also the
ball
races on the cam ends and the
separate
ball
cups. Existence of any of
these
condi­ tions indicates the necessity for parts replacement.

h.
Inspect the tapered stud mounted on the lever
shaft for flat
spots
and chipping. In the case of
either, replacement is usually advisable. Inspect the
lever shaft for wear and
test
the fit of the shaft in
the bushings.

i.
Inspect condition of the oil seal at outer end of
lever shaft and the bearing at top end of steering
column.

0-25.
Reassembly
of
Steering
Gear
e Refer to Fig. 0-2.
Reassemble all parts to wheel tube in reverse order
of dismantling. Assemble cam, wheel tube and
bearing
assembly in housing, seating the lower

bearing
ball
cup in the housing.
Note:
New plastic retainer type cam bearings are
now available for the Ross steering gears. The new
bearings replace, and are interchangeable with,
the lock ring type cam bearings on gears equipped

with
early type cams.
With
adjusting shims in place, assemble upper
cover and adjust the cam bearings.
Assemble lever shaft in housing and with gasket
in
place assemble the side cover and set adjusting

screw
for a minimum backlash of the studs in the
cam
groove, with the steering gear at the center
point of travel.
When
assembling upper bearing spring and spring
seat in jacket tube make sure that the spring seat
is positioned correctly. It must be installed with
the lengthwise flange down against the bearing and
not up inside of spring coil.

0-26.
Installation
of
Steering
Gear

a.
After the gear has been properly adjusted, as
outlined in Par. 0-5, install steering gear assembly
in
chassis in the reverse order in which it was re­
moved.

b.
After installing the assembly in the vehicle,

jack
up front of vehicle and place the front wheels
in
the straight ahead position.

c.
Temporarily install the steering wheel to locate
the mid-position of the steering gear. To locate the mid-position,
turn
the steering wheel as far to the

right
as possible and then
turn
in the
opposite
di­

rection
as far as possible, noting the total number
of turns.
Turn
the wheel back just ^ of the total movement to place the gear in mid-position.

d.
With
the steering gear in mid-position and the
wheels in the straight ahead position install steer­ ing gear arm on lever shaft with the
ball
end down.

When
installed the line across the face of the arm

and
end of shaft should be in alignment.

0-27.
Steering
Wheel
Installation
•
Refer to Fig. 0-2.

a.
Install
steering wheel and spring on shaft.

Align
scribe marks on shaft and hub of wheel.
b.
Install
steering shaft nut and torque 20 to 25
lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].

c.
Install
horn cap. Test horn.
321

p

BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming to
SAE-J1703
specification.

P-7.
Bleeding
Brakes

The
hydraulic
brake system must be bled whenever

a
fluid line has been disconnected or air
gets
into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal.
Air trapped in the system is compressible

and
does
not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake
pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from
air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the
longest
line from the master
FIG.
P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES

1—Bleeder
Screw
cylinder
first, the next
longest
second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least %
full
of hydraulic brake fluid.

To
bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all
dirt

from
around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers in­
structions.
Remove the filler plug and
fill
the master
cylinder
to the lower
edge
of filler neck.
Clean
off

all
bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.

Attach
bleeder
hose
and fixture to right
rear
wheel

cylinder
bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a
turn.

See
Fig.
P-5.
Depress the
foot
pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid
through the line and out of the bleeder
hose
which
carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After
the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed,
fill
the master cylinder reser­
voir
and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed

from
the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and
dirt.

P-8.
Brake Hoses

a.
Hydraulic
lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.

Note:
On
some
vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the
rear
brake line along the inside left
frame
side
rail.
The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.

Should
replacement be necessary make certain the valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical
position. Refer to Fig. P-l.

The
hoses
are the flexible links between the wheels

or
axles and the frame or body. The
hoses
must

withstand
the fluid pressures without expansion
and
must be free to flex during spring deflection
and
wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.

b.
Hydraulic
lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,

chafing,
cracks,
twists and
loose
frame supports.

Hydraulic
tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or
loose
connections);

restrictions
(due to dents or corrosion); and wear (due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.

Avoid
damage to female fittings by supporting fit­
ting with tube nut during removal of assembly.

c.
On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a
new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a
good
seal if reused.

d.
When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose
to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach
opposite
end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid
twists in
hose
when assembling to frame fitting
or
tubing. Hold
hose
end securely with

wrench
while attaching tubing to hose. If
hose
end
clip
is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.

Check
for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.

e.
Check
for any possible contact between front

brake
hose
and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum
turn
position.
Check
for sufficient but not excessive length of
hose
between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from
one extreme
turn
position to the otherl
f.
Check
that there is no possibility of any contact between the
tail
pipe and
rear
brake
hose
under
all
operating conditions.
P-9.
Brake Pedal Adjustment

There
should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod
engages
the master cylinder piston.

This
adjustment is accomplished by shortening or 326

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

FIG.
Q-5—REAR
WHEEL

ATTACHING
PARTS —
FLANGED
AXLE

1—
Brake
Backing Plate

2—
Retainer
Ring

3—
Unit-Bearing

4—
Oil
Seal
5—
Retainer
Plate 6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Cup
Plug
8—
Flanged
Axle Shaft
14284

Q-4. Checking
Front
Wheel Bearings

Raise
the front end of the vehicle with a
jack

so that the tires clear the floor.

Grip
the tire and
test
sidewise shake of the wheel.

If
bearings are correctly adjusted, shake of the
wheel
will
be just perceptible and wheel
will
turn

freely with no drag.

If
bearing adjustment is too tight, the rollers may

break
or
become
overheated. Loose bearings may cause
excessive
wear and noise.

If
this
test
indicates bearing adjustment is neces­

sary,
follow
the procedure given in Par. Q-5. Loose
bearings
will
cause sidewise shake that is evident

around
the entire circumference of the wheel. A shake that is evident only when gripping the
wheels
in
a plane parallel to the ground, but not evident

around
the entire circumference, probably indicates
looseness
in the steering linkage.

Q-5.
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
With
the vehicle on the
jack,
the following proce­

dure
should be followed to adjust the front wheel
bearings on four wheel-drive vehicles.
a. Remove the hub cap, snap
ring,
capscrews, and
washers that attach the driving
flange
to the hub.

b.
Using the
Front
Axle Shaft Drive Flange Puller

W-163,
pull
the driving flange.
c. Bend the lip of the nut lock washer so that the

locknut
and lock washer may be removed.

d.
Rotate the wheel and tighten the adjustment nut until the wheel binds.

Note:
Front
tire and wheel must be rotated by

hand
as the adjusting nut is
tightened
to ensure positive seating of the bearing.

Then
back off the adjusting nut about one-sixth
turn
making sure that wheel rotates freely without
sidewise shake.
e. Replace the lock washers and locknut. Bend
over the lock washer lip.
f.
Check
the adjustment (Par. Q-4). Reassemble the driving
flange
and hub cap. Make certain the
gasket is properly installed
between
the hub and
the flange.

•
Model DJ-5, DJ-6

On
two-wheel drive vehicles, remove the hub cap
and
the wheel retaining nut cotter pin. Rotate the
wheel and tighten the wheel retaining nut until the wheel binds.
Then
back off nut about one-sixth
turn
or more if necessary making sure wheel ro­

tates
freely without sidewise shake. Replace the cotter pin and hub cap.

Q-6.
Rear
Wheel Bearing Adjustment —

Flanged
Axle Shaft

Vehicles
equipped with the
flange
type
rear
axle
shaft require no wheel bearing adjustment. The flanged axle shaft is equipped with a single row,

pre-adjusted,
tapered roller unit-bearing capable of
accepting thrust in either direction. The unit-

bearing
adjustment is built in at the factory mak­
ing shimming or bearing adjustment unnecessary.

Refer
to Fig. Q-6.

Q-7.
Checking
Rear
Wheel Bearings —
Tapered
Axle

Raise
wheel on which adjustment is to be made
by placing a
jack
under the axle housing.
With
hands,
test
sidewise shake and in and out play
of the wheel. If bearings are correctly adjusted,
shake of wheel
will
be just perceptible and the 337