1953 JEEP DJ battery replacement

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAR.

Directional
Signal
Lamps
H-138

Hazard
Warning
Lamps
H-139

Head
Lamp
Replacement H-130
Head
Lamp
Aiming Procedure H-131 Headlight Dimmer Switch H-127

License
Plate
Lamp
H-136
Main
Light
Switch. H-126

Marker
Lights .H-l40

Parking
and
Turn
Signal
Light
H-133
Stop
Light
Switch. H-l28
Tail,
Stop and
Turn
Signal
Lamp
.H-134

H-1. GENERAL
All
'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12- volt electrical systems. Use caution around the higher
voltage
of the 12-volt system as accidental

short
circuits are more capable of damaging electri­
cal
units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping

from
it. In the following paragraphs
will
be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator,
voltage
regulator and start­ ing motor. These units with the connecting wires,

make
up the
engine
electrical system. The wiring
diagram
will
show the different circuits of the en­

gine
electrical system and the various units which
make
up
those
circuits.

With
plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only

rubber-insulated
wiring clips.

Caution:
All current production vehicles are 12- volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12-
volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental

short
circuit is capable of damaging electrical units. Disconnect battery ground cable before changing

electrical
components.

H-2.
Battery

The
battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The
battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator
or generator is not pr 1,scing output,

such
as when the ignition is first turned on. Of

particular
importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable connections.

Battery
service information is given in this section.

Caution:
Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent
openings
of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and might explode.

Note:
The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can

injure
skin or
eyes,
or damage clothes. If it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the
eyes,
promptly flush
it
away with quantities of clear water only. If the

acid
is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a

weak
solution of ammonia, or with a solution of sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
SUBJECT
PAR.

HORN
H-137

ELECTRICAL
COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150

WINDSHIPLD
WIPER SYSTEM
H-141
thru
149

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151

ELECTRICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
H-152

Caution:
When installing the battery, the nega­
tive terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of the battery can cause severe damage to the charg­ing system.

Battery
Inspection

a.
Check
the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of 1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.

If
the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery
needs

recharging.
If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025) or more lower than the other cells, this in­
dicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to

fail,
or there is a
crack
in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery trouble
will
soon
be experienced.

b.
Check
the electrolyte level in each cell, add

distilled
water to maintain the solution [9,5 mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are
exposed
for any
length of time
will
be seriously damaged.

c.
Check
the wing nuts on the hold-down frame for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pres­

sure,
never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure
could damage the battery case.

d.
Clean
the battery terminals and cable con­ nectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda

and
water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals

with
heavy grease.

e.
Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded
or frayed.
Check
tightness
of terminal
screws to ensure
good
electrical connections.
Check

the
tightness
of the negative ground cable con­nection at the frame to ensure a
good
ground
connection.
f.
Load
test
the battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds. If the
voltage
does
not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage
falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above
1.225,
the condition of the battery is questionable.
g. Be sure the
engine
ground strap connection, 172

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-21—GROWLER
end so it rests on the pulley with the commutator
end up.

While
holding brushes clear of commutator with
the thumbs, place generator housing and field coils assembly in position, turning front end

bracket
so the dowel pin in housing enters
hole
in
end head. Place commutator end plate on shaft

and
install long frame screws.

When
reinstalling the generator on the engine, the

bracket
bolt torque wrench reading is 25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].

H-41.
CURRENT-VOLTAGE REGULATORS •
F4 Engine

H-42.
Description and
Operation
For
replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capacity, polarity,

and
common source of manufacture. Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a burned out generator
will
result.

These
regulators are used with shunt-type gen­

erators
and have three units each with a separate function to perform. These units are the circuit

breaker
unit, the
voltage
regulator unit, and the

current
limiting regulator unit.

H-43.
Circuit
Breaker

It
consists of
an
electromagnet and a set of contacts.

The
contacts are mounted with one on a stationary

bracket,
and the other on a movable armature

which
is controlled by the electromagnet. The movable contact is mounted on a spring arm so that as the contacts open and
close
a slight wiping
action is produced.

The
electromagnet of the circuit breaker has two
windings, one, the shunt coil which is connected across the generator output like a voltmeter and
the other a series coil connected in series with the
generator output like an ammeter.These two coils

are
wound in the same direction so that when the
generator is charging the battery, the magnetism
of the series coil increases the total magnetism.

When
the battery discharges back through the generator, the magnetism of the series coil is re­ versed and the magnetism of the two coils is
opposed.
This
results in a decreased
pull
on the

armature
and spring action
opens
the contacts.
10240

FIG.
H-22—PRESTOLITE VOLTAGE REGULATOR
1—
"ARM"
Terminal

2—
"FLD"
Terminal

3— "BAT"
Terminal
The
sequence of operation of the circuit breaker is
as follows:

When
the generator is not running, the contacts
are
open. When the generator is started, the
voltage
builds up at the armature terminal and in the shunt

coil
and as
soon
as it reaches the value for which
the circuit breaker is calibrated, there is sufficient magnetism created by the shunt coil to
pull
down
the armature, closing the contacts which auto­
matically
connects the generator to the battery.

With
the contacts thus closed the current in the
series coil is flowing from the generator to the battery or in the same direction as the current in
the shunt coil, so that the
pull
on the armature is

increased
by the magnetism of the series coil.

When
the
engine
is stopped and the generator
loses

speed, the
voltage
falls, and as
soon
as the gener­
ator
voltage
drops below the battery terminal vol­
tage,
the current flows from the battery to the generator, reversing the direction of current in the
series coil so that the magnetism created by the series coil
opposes
and reduces the magnetism of
the shunt
coil.
This
reduces the
pull
on the
armature

to a point where spring action
opens
the contacts.

H-44.
Voltage
Regulator

The
function of the
voltage
regulator is to hold
the generated
voltage
at a predetermined value as 190

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete

rectifying
diode assemblies
which
eliminate the need
for removing and replacing individual diodes; a
corpplete isolation diode assembly; and a rotor
assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field

coil,
and slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing
at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining
the system
voltage
at the output terminal. The
output current is determined by the battery electri­
cal
load; such as headlights, heater, etc.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed

unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced
as a complete unit.

H-64. ALTERNATOR
PRECAUTIONS

The
following precautions must be observed to
prevent damage to the alternator and regulator.

a.
Never reverse battery connections. Always

check
the battery polarity with a voltmeter before

any
connections are made to be sure that all con­
nections correspond to the battery ground polarity of the vehicle.

b.
Booster batteries for starting must be properly
connected. Make sure that the negative cable of
the booster battery is connected to the negative

terminal
of the battery in the vehicle. The positive
cable of the booster battery should be connected
to the positive terminal of the battery in the
vehicle.

c.
Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger.

d.
Never use a fast charger as a booster for

starting
the vehicle.

e.
Never disconnect the
voltage
regulator while
the
engine
is running.

f.
Do not ground the alternator output terminal.
g.
Do not operate the alternator on an open
circuit
with
the field energized.

h.
Do not attempt to polarize an alternator.

These
precautions are stated here as an aid to

service
personnel. They are also restated at appro­

priate
places in the
text
of this section of the
manual.

H-65. ALTERNATOR
CHARGING
SYSTEM SERVICE
Important:
All alternator
tests
for the 35, 40 and
55 amp alternator are the same, however, there is a
difference
between
the location of the various ter­

minals
and field current specifications. The field

current
of the 35 amp alternator should be 1.7 to 2.3 amps, 40 and 55 amp alternators should be 1.8
to 2.4 amps, with
full
battery
voltage
applied to
the filed coil. Disassembly and assembly procedures

are
the same for all three alternators.
Terminal
locations and wire harness color
codes
for the 35,
40 and 55 amp alternator are shown in Fig. H-38.

H-66.
Service Diagnosis

In
diagnosing a suspected malfunction of the

alternator
charging system, consideration must
be given to the complete electrical power plant of the vehicle; including the alternator, regulator,
ignition switch, charge indicator lamp, battery,

and
all associated wiring. If it is suspected that the

alternator
is not fully charging the battery and

fulfilling
the electrical requirements of the electrical
system, several checks should be made before

checking
the alternator itself:

Note:
Whenever service is required in connection

with
an alternator problem, the first
step
should be to verify that the wiring harness hook-up is correct
as indicated in Fig. H-38.

a.
Test the condition of the battery and
state
of
charge
(Par. H-2).
If the battery is not fully charged
and
in
good
condition, use a replacement battery
for making alternator system
tests.

Caution:
Make certain that the negative battery

post
is connected to ground when making the
battery installation. Serious damage to the alter­

nator
can result if battery polarity is reversed.

b.
Check
fan belt for proper tension (Par.
C-27).

Caution:
To increase belt tension, apply pressure
to alternator front housing only as permanent damage can result if pressure is applied to
rear

housing.

H-67.
Alternator In Vehicle Tests

The
following
tests
are made with the alternator

in
the vehicle with output and regulator connec­
tions maintained to the alternator except as noted

in
Fig. H-27 and H-28. The field plug and
voltage
regulator are disconnected for
these
tests.
The

tests
are given in proper order and detail in the
following paragraphs.

a.
Isolation Diode Test: To determine if the isola­
tion diode is open or shorted, refer to Par. H-69.

b.
Alternator Output Test: To isolate the trouble
to the alternator or regulator, refer to Par. H-70.

c.
Alternator
Field
Circuit
Test: To determine the condition of the field
circuit
(brushes and rotor),

refer
to Par. H-73.

d.
Brush
Insulation
and Continuity
Test:
To deter­
mine the condition of the
brush,
refer to
Par.
H-75.

e.
Rotor In-Vehicle Test: To determine whether
the rotor coil is open or shorted, refer to
Par.
H-73.
f. Any further
tests
must be conducted with the

alternator
removed and disassembled. When this
is done, the condition of the rotor, the rectifying

and
isolation diodes, and the stator can be further
tested.

A
commercial alternator tester Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent can be used to make all
necessary
tests
on the alternator system. If a com­

mercial
tester is used, follow the recommended
testing procedure outlined by the tester manu­

facturer.
If
a commercial tester is not available, follow the
testing procedure as outlined in this manual.

H-68.
Test Equipment

a.
Volt Ampere Tester such as Sun
Electric
Model

VAT-20
or equivalent with meter ranges as shown

in
the following list can be used. 195

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
sibility
of the cable shorting at the
engine
or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition

wire
to the solenoid
post
and remove the two screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b.
To install the solenoid switch reverse the re­

moval
procedure given above.

H-10S.
STARTING MOTOR
—
DELCO
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Refer
to Fig. H-45.

The
starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 en­

gine
has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into
engagement
with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the
engine
and then
closes
the electrical
circuit
to cause
engine
cranking. When the
engine

starts,
the overrunning clutch
disengages
to pre­ vent transfer of
engine
speed to the starting motor.

Note:
Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement

with
original equipment parts; however, should the need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy
starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness
does
not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.

purple
conduit wire 70 inches long, must be in­

stalled.
Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness
contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire, (connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.

H-109.
Starting Motor Disassembly
a.
Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead

terminal
with piece of
hose
or tape to prevent
short circuiting.
Note
locations of wiring connec­
tions to assure proper reconnection. Remove the cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.

b.
Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,

which
passes through grommet at top of motor,
from
motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two
thru

bolts
from motor. Remove commutator end frame

and
field frame assembly from solenoid and drive assembly.
e.
Pull
out pivot pins of brush holders and remove each of two brush holder and spring assemblies

from
field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.

d.
Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive
housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust

washer
from
opposite
end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from
armature,
place

a
metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion
stop
retainer. Tap
retainer
toward armature to
expose
snap ring as
shown in
Fig.
H-47. Remove snap ring from
groove
in
shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly

from
shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,

f.
Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive
housing remove switch. Remove small nut

and
insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the
sole­

noid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,

and
return spring.
12765
FIG.
H-47—REMOVING PINION
DRIVE
ASSEMBLY

FROM
ARMATURE SHAFT

1— XA ' Pipe Coupling

2—
Snap
Ring
and Retainer

3—
Armature
Shaft
4—
Drive
Assembly
H-110.
Starting
Motor
Cleaning and
Inspection

a.
Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The
arma­
ture,
field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method.
This
might damage insulation so that a
short
circuit
or ground would subsequently develop.
It
would also remove lubricant originally packed

in
the overrunning clutch so that clutch would

soon
be ruined.

b.
Carefully
inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserv­
iceable parts. Any soldering must be
done
with

rosin
flux.

Note:
Never use acid flux when solding any elec­

trical
connections and never use emery cloth to
clean
armature
commutator or other
electrical
units. 208

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
FIG.
H-49—INSTALLING PINION
STOP RETAINER AND THRUST

COLLAR
ON ARMATURE SHAFT
1—
Retainer

2—
Snap
Ring

3—
Thrust
Collar

4—
Drive
Assembly 5—
Retainer

6—
Groove
in Armature Shaft 7—
Snap
Ring

e. Place thrust collar on armature shaft with shoulder next to snap
ring.
Move the retainer
into contact with
ring.
Using pliers on
opposite

sides of shaft,
squeeze
retainer and thrust collar

together
until snap ring is forced into the retainer.
See Fig. H-49, right hand view.

f.
Lubricate
bearing of drive housing with silicone grease and install armature and drive assembly
in
housing.
g. If field coils were removed from field frame, position coils of replacement field coil assembly
on
pole
shoes
and mount each
pole
shoe
in field
frame
with a
pole
shoe
screw. Use care in tighten­ ing screws to avoid distortion of parts. Be certain
that screws are securely tightened. Insert ends of
field
coil
leads through rubber bushing in field
frame.

h.
Position field frame assembly over armature as­
sembly so that its dowel pin
engages
the
hole
in

drive
housing. Use care to prevent damage to brushes and brush holders. Make sure that brushes

are
properly sealed on commutator.

i.
Install
leather thrust washer on commutator end
of armature assembly.
Lubricate
bearing in com­
mutator end frame with silicone grease and position
end frame to field frame so that armature shaft
enters bearing. Secure field frame and end frame
to drive housing with two
thru
bolts. Connect field leads to motor terminal of solenoid with connect­ing nut.

j.
Whenever the starting motor is disassembled
and
reassembled, the pinion clearance should be
checked.
This
is to make sure that proper clear­
ance exists
between
the pinion and the pinion

stop
retainer when pinion is in cranking position.

Lack
of clearance would prevent solenoid starter

switch
from closing properly; too much clearance
would cause improper pinion
engagement
in ring gear.

k.
Supply 6 volts (3 battery cells or a
6-volt
bat­

tery)
between
S terminal of the solenoid and ground (starter frame).
Caution:
Do not supply more than 6 volts or the
motor
will
operate. As a further precaution to
prevent motor operation, connect a heavy jumper

wire
from the solenoid motor terminal to ground.

I.
After energizing the solenoid, push the drive as­
sembly away from the
stop
retainer as far as pos­
sible and use a feeler
gauge
to check clearance

between
pinion and retainer. See Fig. H-50. If pinion clearance is not .010" to .140" [0,25 a 3,55

mm.],
there is either excessive wear or improper as­
sembly of solenoid linkage or shift lever mechanism.
12771
FIG.
H-50—MEASURING PINION CLEARANCE
1—
Press
Rearward

2—
Pinion

3—
Retainer

4— .010* to .140* Clearance 5—
Feeler
Gauge
210

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
Note:
Pinion clearance cannot be adjusted. If
clearance is not correct, motor must be disassem­
bled and checked for the above mentioned defects.

Any
defective parts must be replaced.
H-118. Starting Motor Test —
Genera!

To
obtain
full
performance data on a starting motor, or to determine the cause of abnormal
operation, the motor should be submitted to no-
load and locked armature
tests,
with equipment designed for such
tests.
A high-current variable resistance is required to obtain the specified volt­
age at the starting motor.
This
is necessary since
a
small variation in the
voltage
will
produce a
marked
difference in the current
drawn.

H-119.
Starting Motor No-Load Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter capable of
read­

ing
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC ammeter

with
maximum range of several hundred amperes,
a
high-current variable resistance, an rpm. in­

dicator,
and a fully-charged, 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal
and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid.
Con­
nect voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (positive) and motor frame (negative, ground).

Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series

between
positive terminal of battery and battery

terminal
of solenoid. Set up rpm. indicator to show starting motor speed.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to a value of
approximately .25 ohm. To complete the
circuit,

connect negative terminal of battery to motor

frame.
Adjust variable resistance to obtain a volt­ meter reading of 10.6 volts;
note
speed of starting motor and ammeter reading. Motor speed should
be
6750
to
10,500
rpm.; ammeter reading should
be 50 to 80 amperes.
c. Rated speed and current indicate normal condi­
tion of the starting motor. Low speed and high
cur­
rent
may show friction; this could be caused by
tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent armature shaft,

or
a
loose
field
pole
shoe
dragging against the

armature.
It could also be caused by a short-cir­ cuited armature, or by grounded armature or field
coils.

d.
Failure
to operate and high current indicates

a
direct short circuit to ground at either the battery

terminal
or field coils.
e.
Failure
to operate and no current are usually
caused by broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation
between
commutator
bars,
or
some
other
condition preventing
good
contact
between
the brushes and commutator. It can also be caused by
open circuit in either the field coils or armature coils.
f. Low speed and low current show high resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty com­
mutator, or one of the conditions mentioned in e,
above.
g. High speed and high current indicates a short
circuit
in the field coils. H-120-
Locked
Armature Test

This
test
requires a DC voltmeter with range ap­

propriate
to read
voltages
in a 12-volt
circuit,
a DC
ammeter with maximum range of several hundred
amperes, a high-current variable resistance, a
clamping fixture to lock
together
the motor shaft

and
case, and a fully-charged 12-volt battery.

a.
Connect a jumper lead
between
S terminal and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect
voltmeter
between
either of
these
terminals (posi­
tive) and motor frame (negative, ground). Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series
between
positive terminal of battery and battery terminal
of solenoid.
Install
clamping fixture to lock motor
shaft and case
together
securely.
b.
Initially,
adjust variable resistance to approxi­
mately .05 ohm. To complete the
circuit,
connect
negative terminal of battery to motor frame. Ad­

just
variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter
read­
ing of 4.0 volts. Ammeter reading should be 280
to 320 amperes.

H-121.
Solenoid Starter Switch — Delco

The
solenoid-type switch is mounted directly on
the starting motor.
This
type of switch is energized
by turning the ignition key to the extreme right position. Should the solenoid switch
fail
in service

it
is necessary to install a new assembly.

Should
a starting motor
fail
to deliver maximum power the fault may be due to
voltage
drop at the

starter
switch contacts due to corrosion or burning.

Check
the switch by comparing the
voltage
at the
battery across the terminals. The
voltage
drop
should not exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
In
order to remove the starter solenoid, it is neces­

sary
to remove the starter assembly.

H-122.
ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS

H-123.
Fuel
Gauge —
CJ-3B

The
fuel
gauge
circuit is composed of the indicating

unit,
mounted on the instrument panel, and the
fuel tank unit, connected by a single wire through the ignition switch.

Should
the
gauge
fail
to register, check all wire con­ nections to be sure they are tight and clean; also
be sure both units are well grounded. If, after this
check, the
gauge
does
not indicate properly, remove
the wire from the tank unit and connect it to a
new tank unit which must be grounded to the tank

or
frame for
test.
Turn
the ignition switch "ON"
and
move
the float arm through its range of travel,
watching the dash unit to determine if it indicates
correctly.
If it fails to do so the trouble is probably

in
the dash unit and it should be replaced.

Should
a new tank unit be unavailable for this
test,
disconnect tank unit wire at the instrument panel

gauge.
Connect one lead of a 12 V, 1 CP
test
light
to the instrument panel unit terminal and with the
ignition switch
"ON"
ground the other lead. If the
unit is operating correctly the pointer
will
move

approximately three-quarter across the
dial.
Do not attempt to repair either unit; replacement
is the only precedure. 211