1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE fold seats

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-7
4. Remove the center cover, breather and PCV
hoses, and spark plug cables.
5. Remove the rocker cover.
6. Remove the throttle body stay, both camshaft
sprockets, and oil seals.
7. Remove the Camshaft Position fCMP) sensor 3. install the lash adjuster clips on the rocker
arms, then loosen the bearing cap bolts. Do not re-
move the bolts from the bearing caps.
4. Remove the rocker arms, shafts and bearing
caps as an assembly.
lo hlstall: unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
3. Remove any necessary components to access
the thermostat.
4. Remove the thermostat housinq retaininq
nd adapter from the rear of the camshah. ’
8. Remove the intake and exhaust camshafts.
9. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters from
he head. It is recommended that all lash adjusters
md rockers be replaced as a complete set.
To Install:
10. Immerse the lash adjusters in clean diesel
uel. Using a small wire, move the plunger of the lash
tdjuster up and down four or five times while push-
ng down lightly on the check ball in order to bleed
jut the air. Lubricate and install the lash adjusters in
he cylinder head.
11. Lubricate the camshafts with clean enqine oil
nd position the camshafts on the cylinder head.
12. Install the bearing caps. Tighten the caps in
sequence, in 2 or 3 steps. Caps 2,3 and 4 have a
ront mark. Install with the mark aligned with the front
nark on the cylinder head. Intake caps have I
stamped on the cap and exhaust caps have E. Also,
)e sure the rocker arm is correctly mounted on the
ash adjuster and the valve stem end. Torque the front
md rear retaining cap bolts to 14 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) and
ighten the center 3 retaining cap bolts to 8 ft. Ibs.
11 Nm).
13. Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seals
md install.
14. Install the timing belt, valve cover and all re-
ated parts. Refer to the timing belt procedure in this
;ection. 5. Install the bearing caps/rocker arm assem-
blies. Tighten the bolts to 23 ft. Ibs. (31 Nm).
6. Remove the lash adjuster clips.
7. Install the rocker arm cover using a new gas-
ket.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
b See Figures 24, 25, 26, and 27
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
cooling system when hot; serious bums can
occur from the
steam and hot coolant. Also,
when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
sealable container. Coolant should be reused bolts.
5. Lift the housing from the engine.
6. Remove the thermostat taking note of its
original position in the housing.
To Install:
*In order to prevent leakage, make sure
both mating
surfaces are clean and free of
any old gasket material.
7. Install the thermostat so its flange seats
tightly in the machined groove in the intake manifold
or thermostat case. Refer to its location prior to re-
moval. Aliqn the relief valve with the alignment mark
on the thermostat housing.
8. Use a new gasket or D-ring and reinstall the
thermostat housing. Torque the housing mounting
bolts to the following specifications:
l 1.8L engine: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) l 1.5L, 1.61, 2.OL DOHC, and 1990-92 2.OL
SOHC engines: 12-14 ft. Ibs. (17-20 Nm)
l 1993 2.01 SOHC engine: 7-10 ft. Ibs.
(10-15 Nm)
l 2.4L engine: IO ft. Ibs. (14 Nm) l 3.OL and 3.5L engines: 12-14 ft. Ibs.
(17-20 Nm)
9. Fill the system with coolant.
10. Install the removed air intake plumbing.
15. Connect the negative battery cable and check
or leaks.
3.51 Engine
I See Figure 23
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the rocker arm cover.
g. 26 Remove the thermostat from the
ousing, noting the location of using the thermostat, always re-

ENGINEAND ENGINEOVERHAUL 3-59
Most of the cleaning process can be carried out
with common hand tools and readily available sol-
vents or solutions. Carbon deposits can be chipped
away using a hammer and a hard wooden chisel. Old
gasket material and varnish or sludge can usually be
removed using a scraper and/or cleaning solvent. Ex-
tremely stubborn deposits may require the use of a
power drill wrth a wire brush. If using a wire brush,
use extreme care around any critical machined sur-
faces (such as the gasket surfaces, bearing saddles,
cylinder bores, etc.). USE OF A WIRE BRUSH IS NOT
RECOMMENDED ON ANY ALUMINUM COMPO-
NENTS Always follow any safety recommendations
given by the manufacturer of the tool and/or solvent.
You should always wear eye protection during any
cleaning process involvrng scraping, chipping or
spraying of solvents.
An alternative to the mess and hassle of cleaning
the parts yourself is to drop them off at a local garage
or machine shop. They will, more than likely, have
the necessary equrpment to properly clean all of the
parts for a nominal fee.
Always wear eye protection during any clean-
ing process involving scraping, chipping or
spraying of solvents.
Remove any oil galley plugs, freeze plugs and/or
pressed-in bearings and carefully wash and degrease
all of the engine components including the fasteners
and bolts. Small parts such as the valves, springs,
etc., should be placed in a metal basket and allowed
to soak. Use pipe cleaner type brushes, and clean all
passageways in the components. Use a ring ex-
pander and remove the rings from the pistons. Clean
the piston ring grooves with a special tool or a piece
of broken ring Scrape the carbon off of the top of the
piston. You should never use a wire brush on the
pistons. After preparing all of the piston assemblies
in this manner, wash and degrease them again.
Use extreme care when cleaning around the
cylinder head valve seats. A mistake or slip
may cost you a new seat.
When cleaning the cylinder head, remove carbon
from the combustron chamber with the valves in-
stalled. This will avoid damaging the valve seats.
:ig. 234 Drill out the damaged threads with
he specified size bit. Be sure to drill corn.
rletely through the hole or to the bottom oi
I blind hole REPAIRING DAMAGEDTHREADS
# See Figures 232, 233, 234, 235 and 236
Several methods of repairing damaged threads are
available Heli-Coil@ (shown here), Keenserts@ and
Microdop are among the most widely used. All in-
volve basically the same principle-drilling out
stripped threads, tapping the hole and installing a
prewound insert-making welding, plugging and
oversize fasteners unnecessary.
Two types of thread repair inserts are usually sup-
plied: a standard type for most inch coarse, rnch fine,
metric course and metrrc fine thread sizes and a
spark lug type to fit most spark plug port sizes. Con-
sult the individual tool manufacturers catalog to de-
termine exact applications. Typical thread repair kits
will contain a selection of prewound threaded inserts,
a tap (corresponding to the outside diameter threads
of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug in-
serts usually differ because they require a tap
equipped wrth pilot threads and a combined
reamer/tap section. Most manufacturers also supply
blister-packed thread repair Inserts separately in ad-
dition to a master kit containing a variety of taps and
inserts plus installation tools
Before attempting to repair a threaded hole, re-
move any snapped, broken or damaged bolts or
studs. Penetrating oil can be used to free frozen
threads. The offending item can usually be removed
with locking pliers or using a screw/stud extractor.
After the hole is clear, the thread can be reparred, as
shown in the series of accompanying illustrations
and in the krt manufacturers instructions.
THREADED
lCCS3039
replaced with thread repair inserts
:ig. 235 Using the kit, tap the hole in order
o receive the thread insert. Keep the tap
veil oiled and back it out frequently to avoid
:logging the threads
To properly rebuild an engine, you must first re-
move it from the vehicle, then disassemble and diag-
nose it. Ideally you should place your engine on an
engine stand. This affords you the best access to the
engine components. Follow the manufacturers direc-
tions for using the stand with your particular engine.
Remove the flywheel or flexplate before installing the
engine to the stand.
Now that you have the engine on a stand, and as-
suming that you have drained the oil and coolant
from the engine, it’s time to strip it of all but the nec-
essary components. Before you start disassembling
the engine, you may want to take a moment to draw
some pictures, or fabricate some labels or containers
to mark the locations of various components and the
bolts and/or studs which fasten them. Modern day
engines use a lot of little brackets and clips which
hold wiring harnesses and such, and these holders
are often mounted on studs and/or bolts that can be
easily mixed up. The manufacturer spent a lot of time
and money designing your vehicle, and they wouldn’t
have wasted any of it by haphazardly placing brack-
ets, clips or fasteners on the vehicle. If it’s present
when you disassemble it, put it back when you as-
semble, you will regret not remembering that little
bracket which holds a wire harness out of the path of
a rotating part.
You should begin by unbolting any accessories
still attached to the engine, such as the water pump,
power steering pump, alternator, etc. Then, unfasten
any manifolds (intake or exhaust) which were not re-
moved during the engine removal procedure. Finally,
Fig. 233 Standard thread repair insert (left),
and spark plug thread insert
im3043 Fig. 236 Screw the insert onto the installer
1001 until the tang engages the slot. Thread
‘he insert into the hole until it is l/4-l/~ turn
lelow the top surface, then remove the tool
and break off the tano usina a uunch

3-60 ENGINE/
-w
remove any covers remaining on the engine such as
on today’s automobiles: the Overhead Valve (OHV)
and the Overhead Camshaft (OHC). The latter can
also be broken down into two subgroups: the Single the rocker arm, front or timing cover and oil pan.
Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) and the Dual Overhead
Camshaft (DOHC). Generally, if there is only a single
camshaft on a head. it is iust referred to as an OHC Some front covers may require the vibration damper
and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand. The
idea is to reduce the engine to the bare necessities
(cylinder head(s), valve train, engine block, crank-
shaft, pistons and connecting rods), plus any other
‘in block’ components such as oil pumps, balance
shafts and auxiliary shafts.
Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the en-
gine block and carefully place on a bench. Disassem-
bly instructions for each component follow later in
this section.
There are two basic types of cylinder heads used
Most cylinder heads these days are made of an
aluminum alloy due to its light weight, durability and
L--L I _--- 1^- _..^ I:,:^^ I I ^...^. .^_ ^^^I :_-_ ..^^ ,L- same environment. The same goes for any other unchanged. One aspect to pay attention to is careful
component on the cylinder head. Think of it as an in- labeling of the parts on the dual camshaft cylinder
“’ surance policy against future problems related to that head. There will be an intake camshaft and followers
component. as well as an exhaust camshaft and followers and
Unfortunately, the only way to find out which com- they must be labeled as such. In some cases, the
ponents need replacing, is to disassemble and care- components are identical and could easily be in-
fully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are stalled incorrectly. DO NOT MIX THEM UP! Deter-
disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the compo- mining which is which is very simple; the intake
nents. camshaft and components are on the same side of
DISASSEMBLY the head as was the intake manifold. Conversely, the
exhaust camshaft and components are on the same
side of the head as was the exhaust manifold.
ti See Figures 237 and 238
Whether it is a single or dual overhead camshaft Cup Type Camshaft Followers
cylinder head, the disassembly procedure is relatively 6 See Figures 239, 240, and 241
t “” ““’ 1 Most cylinder heads with cup type camshaft fol-
1 1 head. Also, an engine with an OHV cylinder head is j:, ’
I also known as a pushrod engine. : .; :-,
_I lowers will have the valve spring, retainer and locks
recessed within the followers bore. You will need a
C-clamp style valve spring compressor tool, an OHC
spring removal tool (or equivalent) and a small mag-
net to disassemble the head.
1. If not already removed, remove the camshaft(s)
and/or followers, Mark their positions for assembly.
2. Position the cylinder head to allow use of a C-
clamp style valve spring compressor tool.
IIRN il~llSlt?l ~Lldll~l~S. IlUWttVtJ, MS1 11011 W8S lilt: material of choice in the past, and is still used on
many vehicles today. Whether made from aluminum
or iron, all cylinder heads have valves and seats.
Some use fwo valves per cylinder, while the more hi-
tech engines will utilize a multi-valve configuration
using 3‘4 and even 5 valves per cylinder. When the
valve contacts the seat, it does so on precision ma-
chined surfaces, which seals the combustion cham-
ber, All cylinder heads have a valve guide for each
valve. The auide centers the valve to the seat and al-
lows it to move up and down within it. The clearance
between the valve and guide can be critical. Too
much clearance and the engine may consume oil,
lose vacuum and/or damaae the seat. Too little. and
the valve can stick in the guide causing the engine to
run poorly if at all, and possibly causing severe dam-
age. The last component all cylinder heads have are
valve springs. The spring holds the valve against its
seat. It also returns the valve to this position when
the valve has been opened by the valve train or
camshaft. The spring is fastened to the valve by a re-
tainer and valve locks (sometimes called keepers).
Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim
to keep the spring from wearing away the aluminum. Fig, 237 Exploded view of a valve, seal,
1 cylinder head ----r- 1 spring, retamer and locks from an OHC
An ideal method of rebuilding the cylinder head
would involve replacing all of the valves, guides,
seats, springs, etc. with new ones. However, depend-
ing on how the engine was maintained, often this is
not necessary. A major cause of valve, guide and seat
wear is an improperly tuned engine. An engine that is
~~f~t~~ rich, will often wash the lubricating oil
out ofthe guide with gasoline, causing it to wear
~~fdfy. lonely, an engine which is running too
lean wifl pface higher combustion temperatures on
Me valves and seats allowing them to wear or even
bum. Springs fall victim to the driving habits of the
f~~iduaf. A driver who often runs the engine rpm to
tfre redfine will wear out or break the springs faster
then one tfrat stays well below it. Unfortunately,
mileage takes it tot1 on all of the parts. Generally, the
valves, guides, springs and seats in a cylinder head
can be machined and re-used, saving you money.
.However, if a valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace
all of the valves, since they were all operating in the oi a multi-valve cylinder
t has 2 intake
and 2 ex-
At is preferred to position the cylinder head lasket’surtace facing you with tee valve
springs facing the opposite direction and the
lead laying horizontal.
3. With the OHC spring removal adapter tool po-
,itioned inside of the follower bore, compress the
alve spring using the C-clamp style valve spring
:ompressor.
tcca3p51 fig. 239 C-clamp type spring compressor
and an OHC spring removal tool (center) for
cup type followers
Fig. 240 Most cup type follower cylinder
/ heads retain the camshaft using bolt-on
bearing caps

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-63
Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Valves
Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the
center of the straightedge and across the cylinder Any valves that were not replaced should be
head at several points. Check along the centerline refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have ac-
and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage cess to a valve grinding machine, this should be
exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. done by a machine shop. If the valves are in ex-
(152cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total tremely good condition, as well as the valve seats
length of the head, the cylinder head must be resur- and guides, they may be lapped in without petform-
,
I mg macnme worK.
4
It is a recnmmended practice to lap the valves faced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine
the intake manifold flange surface should be checker,
and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for
the change in its mounting position. _ - _ _ _ .- - - _
even after machine work has been p&formed and/or
new valves have been purchased. This insures a pos-
itive seal between the valve and seat.
-guide clearance; the 1
read
. .
into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator
against the valve stem near the tie and zero the
gauge. Grasp the valve stem and’wiggle towards and
away from the dial indicator and observe the read-
ings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the
initial point and zero the gauge and again take a read-
ing. Compare the two readings for a out of round
condition. Check the readings against the specifica-
tions given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed
for valve guides will give you an accurate valve guide
bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare
the readings with the specifications given. Any CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE
Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion
chamber, hbwever, it is not uncommon for the head
to crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the
head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first
area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust
.I *
seawpon area.
8 I .,“““I llly”Lv”l~ .ml”“l” - plr”llll”“, ““I ,“a’
because you don’t see a crack does not mean it is not
there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for
cracks include Magnaflux? a magn$i,c process or
Zyglo? a dye penetrant. Ma{ -’
InatluxW IS used only on
ferrous metal (cast iron) heat Is. Zyglo@ uses a spray
on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to re-
veal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have
your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks,
especially if the engine was known to have over-
I .* I,. ..^.. LAPPING THE VALVES
*Before iaoaino the valves to the seats,
read the rest of the cylinder head section to
insure that any related parts are in accept-
able enough condition to continue.
*Before anv valve seat machining and/or
lapping can be performed, the guides must
be within factory recommended specifica-
tions.
1. Invert the cylinder head.
2. Linhtlv Iuhrir;rB the valve stems and insert
-. _ ~ . . . . . .--.._-._
them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.
3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small
amount of fine lanninn compound to the seat.
4.
i guides that fail these inspections should be replaced nearea analor ieaKea or consumea coolant. Contact a Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping
tool and attach it to the head of the valve.
i or machined. local shop for availability and pricing of these ser-
5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both
I vices.
I
VALVE SEATS Physical damage is usually very evident. For ex- hands, changing the position of the valve on the
valve seat and lifting the tool often to prevent groov-
A visual inspection of the valve seats should show
amnb P hrnbn mntlntinn ear from dropping the I and/or bolt. All of these ing.
.a,... . 6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is
a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve
face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for
severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is badly
worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A se-
verely worn or recessed seat may need to be re- uetecIs SIIOUIO oe nxea or, IT unrepairaole, me neaa
should be replaced.
Camshaft and Followers evid
7
traces of the grinding corn
to maintain its lapped loca lent on the valve and seat.
‘. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all
pound and store the valve
placed: All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat
concentricity gauge, if available, should be used to
check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifica-
tions the seat must be machined (if no soecification
is given use 0.002 in. or O.O51mt$. Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described
earlier in this section.
REFINISHING & REPAIRING Do not get the valves out of order after they
have been lapped. They must be put back
: ..^^ I... --I:^:-L!-- --A
Many of the procedures gIveI
WI WIIIIISIIIIIIJ ~IIU repairing the cylinder head components must be per-
formed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the in-
spected part is not worn, can be performed yourself
inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and
effort so far, why risk trying to save a couple bucks if
you might have to do it all over again?
I- with the same valve seat with which they
were lapped.
Springs, Retainers and Valve locks
There is no repair or refinishing possible with the
springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found to
be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new
lor known nnod narts CYLtNDEt? HEAD SURFACE FLATNESS
) See Figures 256 and 257
After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the
cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the
head for flatness.
\- - a---r r- .-.
Cylinder Head
Most refinishing procedures dealing with the
VALVE GWDE
elf any machining or replacements are
e valve guides, the seats must be
Fig. 257 Checks should also be made along Unless the valve guides need machining or re-
placing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly‘
clean them of any dirt or oil residue.

install the line to the fuel rail. Tighten the mounting
bolts,
19. Attach the PCV hose and the breather hose if
thev were disconnected.
20. Connect the negative battery cable. Pressur-
ize the fuel system and inspect all connections for
I
leaks.
1.6L and 2.01 DOHC Engines
b See Figure 20
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure as described
in this section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Wrap the connection with a shop towel and
disconnect the high pressure fuel line at the fuel rail.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
* tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
plosion.
4. Disconnect the fuel return hose and remove
the O-ring.
5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel
pressure regulator.
6. Disconnect the PCV hose. On 2.OL engine,
remove the center cover.
1 x Connection for PCV hose
2. Connection for high pressure fuel hose
3. O-ring
4. Connection for vacuum hose
5. Connection for fuel return hose
&2 I=, 1c.1 nrncc*.ra regu,ator
lble clamD
7. Label and detach the electrical connectors
from each iniector.
8. Accelerator ca
9. Center cover . 10. Connection for control harness
11 Fuel rail
12. Insulator
13. Insulator
14. Injector
15. O-ring
16. Grommet
89575g27 Exploded view of the fuel injectors and related
components -1.6L and 2.QL DOHC
5-6 FUELSYSTEM
8. Remove the injector rail retaining bolts, Make
sure the rubber mounting bushings do not get lost.
9. Lift the rail assembly up and away from the
engine.
10. Remove the injectors from the rail by pulling
gently. Discard the lower insulator. Check the resis-
tance through the injector. The specification for 2.OL
turbocharged engine is 2-3 ohms at 70°F (20°C).
The specification for the others is 13-15 ohms at
70°F (20°C). To install:
11. Install a new grommet and O-ring to the in-
jector. Coat the O-ring with light oil.
12. install the injector to the fuel rail.
13. Replace the seats in the intake manifold. In-
stall the fuel rail and injectors to the manifold. Make
sure the rubber bushings are in place before tighten-
ing the mounting bolts.
14. Tighten the retaining bolts to 72 inch lbs. (11
Nm).
Fig. 21 Remove the fuel feed line-to-fuel
rail retaining fitting bolts . . .
15. Attach the connectors to the injectors and in-
stall the center cover. Connect the PCV hose.
16. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum
hose.
17. Connect the fuel return hose.
18. Replace the O-ring, lightly lubricate it and
connect the high pressure fuel line.
19. Connect the negative battery cable and check
the entire system for proper operation and leaks. Fig. 22 . . . then remove the fuel feed line
from the fuel injector rail
2.4L Engine
b See Figures 21 thru 30

5-8 FUELSYSTEM
9 ,npimr w1m.m
1: i”“L,
1: 82”w
93155gx Fig. 31 Exploded view of the fuel injectors and related components-
s.OL engines
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
plosion.
6. Disconnect the fuel return hose and remove
the O-ring.
7. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel
pressure regulator.
8. Detach the electrical connectors from each
injector.
9. Remove the fuel pipe connectmg the fuel
rails. Remove the injector rail retaining bolts. Make
sure the rubber mounting bushings do not get lost.
10. Lift the rail assemblies up and away from the
engine.
11. Remove the injectors from the rail by pulling
gently. Discard the lower insulator.
To install:
*Some of the vehicles may have a clip that
secures the injector to the fuel rail. Be sure
to remove or install the injector clip where
necessary.
12. Install a new grommet and O-ring to the in-
jector. Coat the O-ring with light oil.
13. Install the injector to the fuel rail.
14. Replace the seats in the intake manifold. In-
stall the fuel rails and injectors to the manifold. Make
sure the rubber bushings are in place before tighten-
ing the mounting bolts.
15. Tighten the retaining bolts to 7-9 ft. Ibs.
(W-13 Nm) Install the fuel pipe with new gasket.
16. Attach the electrical connectors to the injec-
tors
Fig. 32 Exploded view of the fuel injectors and related components-
3.5L engine
17. Connect the fuel return hose.
18. Replace the O-ring, lightly lubricate it and
connect the high pressure fuel line.
19. Usmg new gaskets, install the intake plenum
and all related items. Refer to Section 3.
20. Fill the cooling system.
21. Connect the negative battery cable and check
the entire system for proper operation and leaks.
The easiest way to test the operation of the fuel in-
jectors is to listen for a clicking sound coming from
the injectors while the engine IS running. This is ac-
complished using a mechanic’s stethoscope, or a
long screwdriver. Place the end of the stethoscope or
the screwdriver (tip end, not handle) onto the body of
the injector. Place the ear pieces of the stethoscope
in your ears, or if using a screwdriver, place your ear
on top of the handle. An audible chcking noise
should be heard; this is the solenoid operating. If the
injector makes this noise, the injector driver circuit
and computer are operating as designed. Continue
testing all the injectors this way.
Be extremely careful while working on an op-
erating engine, make sure you have no dan-
gling jewelry, extremely loose clothes,
power tool cords or other items that might
get caught in a moving part of the ermine.
All Injectors Clicking
If all the injectors are clicking, but you have de-
termined that the fuel system is the cause of your
driveability problem, continue diagnostics. Make
sure that you have checked fuel pump pressure as
outlined earlier in this section. An easy way to de-
termine a weak or unproductive cylinder is a cylin-
der drop test. This is accomplished by removing
one spark plug wire at a time, and seeing which cylinder causes the least difference in the idle.
The one that causes the least change is the weak
cylinder.
If the injectors were all clicking and the ignition
system is functioning properly, remove the injector of
the suspect cylinder and bench test it. This is accom-
plished by checking for a spray pattern from the in-
jector itself Install a fuel supply line to the injector
(or rail if the injector is left attached to the rail) and
momentarily apply 12 volts DC and a ground to the
injector itself; a visible fuel spray should appear. If no
spray is achieved, replace the injector and check the
running condition of the engine.
One or More Injectors Are Not Clicking
6 See Figures 33, 34, 35, and 36
If one or more injectors are found to be not operat-
ing, testing the injector driver circuit and computer
can be accomplished using a “noid” light. First, with
the engine not running and the ignition key in the
OFF position, remove the connector from the injector
you plan to test, then plug the “noid” light tool into
the injector connector. Start the engine and the
“noid” light should flash, signaling that the injector
driver circuit is working. If the “noid” light flashes,
but the injector does not click when plugged in, test
the injectors resistance. Resistance should be be-
tween:
l All non-turbo engines: 13-16 ohms at 68°F
(20°C)
l Turbocharged engines: 2-3 ohms at 68 “F
(20°C)
If the “noid” light does not flash, the injector dri-
ver circuit is faulty. Disconnect the negative battery
cable. Unplug the “noid” light from the injector con-
nector and also unplug the PCM. Check the harness
between the appropriate pins on the harness side of
the PCM connector and the injector connector. Re-
sistance should be less than 5.0 ohms; if not, repair
the circuit. If resistance
IS within specifications, the
injector driver inside the PCM is faulty and replace-
ment of the PCM will be necessary.