1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE air filter

TROUBLESHOOiNG 11-7
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine runs poor/y, hesiiates
a. Check the engine ignition system operation and adjust if possible, or replace defective
parts.
b. Check for restricted fuel injectors and replace as necessary.
c. Check the fuel pump output and delivery. Inspect fuel lines for restrictions. If the fuel
pump pressure is below specification, replace the fuel pump.
d. Check the operation of the engine management system and repair as necessary.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
b. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
c. Check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management systems. Check the
sensor operation and wiring. Check for low fuel pump pressure and repair or replace
components as necessary.
d. Check the throttle linkage adjustments. Check to make sure the linkage is fully open-
ing the throttle. Replace any worn or defective bushings or linkages.
e. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
f. Check for a loose or defective knock sensor. A loose, improperly torqued or defective
knock sensor will decrease spark advance and reduce power. Replace defective knock
sensors and install using the recommended torque specification.
g. Check for engine mechanical conditions such as low compression, worn piston rings,
worn valves, worn camshafts and related parts. An engine which has severe mechani-
cal wear, or has suffered internal mechanical damage must be rebuilt or replaced to re-
store lost power.
h. Check the engine oil level for being overfilled. Adjust the engine’s oil level, or change
the engine oil and filter, and top off to the correct level.
i. Check for an intake manifold or vacuum hose leak. Replace leaking gaskets or worn
vacuum hoses.
j. Check for dragging brakes and replace or repair as necessary.
k. Check tire air pressure and tire wear. Adjust the pressure to the recommended set-
tings. Check the tire wear for possible alignment problems causing increased rolling
resistance, decreased acceleration and increased fuel usage.
I. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
3. Poor fuel economy
a. Inspect the air filter and check for any air restrictions going into the air filter housing.
Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated.
b. Check the engine for tune-up and related adjustments. Replace worn ignition parts,
check the engine ignition timing and fuel mixture, and set to specifications if possible.
c. Check the tire size, tire wear, alignment and tire pressure. Large tires create more
rolling resistance, smaller tires require more engine speed to maintain a vehicle’s road
speed. Excessive tire wear can be caused by incorrect tire pressure, incorrect wheel
alignment or a suspension problem. All of these conditions create increased rolling
resistance, causing the engine to work harder to accelerate and maintain a vehicle’s
speed.
d. Inspect the brakes for binding or excessive drag. A sticking brake caliper, overly ad-
justed brake shoe, broken brake shoe return spring, or binding parking brake cable or
linkage can create a significant drag, brake wear and loss of fuel economy. Check the
brake system operation and repair as necessary.
4. Engine runs on (diesels) when turned off
a. Check for idle speed set too high and readjust to specification.
b. Check the operation of the idle control valve, and replace if defective.
c. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings.
Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
d. Check for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hose
and replace defective
gaskets or hoses.
e. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
f. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
g. Check the engine operating temperature for overheating and repair as necessary. 5. Engine knocks and pinfls during heavy accele/ation, and on steep hills
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
b. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings. Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
c. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
d. Check the spark plugs for the correct type, electrode gap and heat range. Replace worn
or damaged spark plugs. For severe or continuous high speed use, install a spark plug
that is one heat range colder.
e. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
f. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
6. Engine atxelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
a. On manual transmission vehicles, check for causes of a slipping clutch. Refer to the
clutch troubleshooting section for additional information.
b. On automatic transmission vehicles, check for a slipping transmission” Check the
transmission fluid level and condition. If the fluid level is too high, adjust to the cor-
rect level. If the fluid level is low, top off using the recommended fluid type. If the fluid
exhibits a burning odor, the transmission has been slipping internally. Changing the
fluid and filter may help temporarily, however in this situation a transmission may re-
quire overhauling to ensure long-term reliability.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine runs pOOr!y a. Check the injection pump timing and adjust to specification.
b. Check for air in the fuel lines or leaks, and bleed the air from the fuel system.
c. Check the fuel filter, fuel feed and return lines for a restriction and repair as necessary.
d. Check the fuel for contamination, drain and flush the fuel tank and replenish with fresh
fuel.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Inspect the air intake system and air filter for restrictions and, if necessary, replace the
air filter.
b. Verify the injection pump timing and reset if out of specification.
c. Check the exhaust for an internal restriction and replace failed parts.
d. Check for a restricted fuel filter and, if restricted, replace the filter.
e. Inspect the fuel filler cap vent. When removing the filler cap, listen for excessive hiss-
ing noises indicating a blockage in the fuel filler cap vents, If the filler cap vents are
blocked, replace the cap.
f. Check the fuel system for restrictions and repair as necessary.
g. Check for low engine compression and inspect for external leakage at the glow plugs
or nozzles. If no external leakage is noted, repair or replace the engine.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS When troubleshooting an engine running or performance condition, the mechanical
condition of the engine should be determined before lengthy troubleshooting procedures
are performed.
The engine fuel management systems in fuel injected vehicles rely on electronic sen-
sors to provide information to the engine control unit for precise fuel metering. Unlike
carburetors, which use the incoming air speed to draw fuel through the fuel metering jets
in order to provide a proper fuel-to-air ratio, a fuel injection system provides a specific
amount of fuel which is introduced by the fuel injectors into the intake manifold or intake
port, based on the information provided by electronic sensors.
The sensors monitor the engine’s operating temperature, ambient temperature and the
amount of air entering the engine, engine speed and throttle position to provide informa-
tion to the engine control unit, which, in turn, operates the fuel injectors by electrical
pulses. The sensors provide information to the engine control unit using low voltage
electrical signals. As a result, an unplugged sensor or a poor electrical contact could
cause a poor running condition similar to a failed sensor.
When troubleshooting a fuel related engine condition on fuel injected vehicles, care-
fully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make sure
the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If neces-
sary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning
agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should not be used, as they could
leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
The engine electrical system provides the necessary electrical power to operate the ve-
hicle’s electrical accessories, electronic control units and sensors. Because engine man-
agement systems are sensitive to voltage changes, an alternator which over or under-
charges could cause engine running problems or component failure. Most alternators
utilize internal voltage regulators which cannot be adjusted and must be replaced indi-
vidually or as a unit with the alternator.

11-8 TROUBLESHOOTING
Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management sys-
tem. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sen-
sors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed
and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted.
Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to
determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed
component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components,
carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make
sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If
necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of clean-
ing agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they
could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or
driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel.
b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing
or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to ad-
vance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or
replace components as needed.
c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in se-
vere operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark
plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer’s recommended specification and
replace worn or damaged spark plugs.
2. Sfarter motor grinds when used
a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace dam-
aged parts.
b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged
replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness.
3. Engine makes a screeching noise
a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and
replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy.
c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bearing
may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump.
4. Engine makes a growling noise
a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if
loose or excessively noisy.
5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise
a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine oil and top off
or replace the engine oil and filter.
b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed
components.
c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a re-
stricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve.
d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or
worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective
parts.
e. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or re-
place parts as necessary.
f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder head
to access and replace.
6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise
a. Check for a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting
bolt(s) to specification.
b. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disassem-
bly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts.
c. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also asso-
ciated with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to inspect for
damaged and needed replacement parts,
7. Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven ’ a. Check the fuel gauge level. If the fuel gauge registers full, it is possible that the odor is
caused by being filled beyond capacity, or some spillage occurred during refueling.
The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canis-
ter to purge.
b. Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if
loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap.
c. Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or
leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. d. Check the vehicle’s fuel economy. If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed
component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure, the
catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the
check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify
the condition by testing the vehicle’s emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and
test and replace failed components as necessary.
5. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven
a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A
lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic con-
verter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine
warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary.
b. Check the vehicle’s alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging,
the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin
to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has oc-
curred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water
mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service,
and load test the battery, and replace if necessary.
9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven
a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp,
weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as
needed.
b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or
under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary.
c. Check the engine’s exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence
of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combus-
tion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or
cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the
inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.
19. Engine vibraies when idling
a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair or
replace as necessary.
b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as neces-
sary.
11. Engine vibrates during acceleration
a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or
repair as necessary.
b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing;
repair or adjust as necessary.
7. Battery goes dead while driving
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test. If the battery loses fluid while driving, check for an overcharg-
ing condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the alternator or voltage regula-
tor. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alternator, necessitating alternator re-
placement or overhaul.)
b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corroded cables and clean the bat-
tery terminals.
c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. If the charging system is over or
undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or both.
d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for looseness, a missing .
ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary.
e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and condition. Properly tension the
drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and replace the drive belt if worn or
cracked.
2. Battery goes dead overnight
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test.
b. Check for a voltage draw, such as a trunk light, interior light or glove box light staying
on. Check light switch position and operation, and replace if defective.
c. Check the alternator for an internally failed diode, and replace the alternator if defec-
tive.
1. Engine overheats
a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture.
b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-9
c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and
replace failed components.
d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose wa-
ter pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.
2. Engine loses coolant
a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.
b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
3. Engine temperature remains co/d when driving
a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open posi-
tion.
b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed compo-
nents.
c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
4. Engine runs hot
a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition.
Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and prop-
erly tension the belt.
c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as
necessary.
d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
e. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and
top off as needed.
NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s me-
chanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine
block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine
overheating.
Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and
use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnos-
ing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical
connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean
the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning igents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of
the wiring.
1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed
a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of
damage or wear.
b. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
d. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and
replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
3. Exhaust system hangs too low
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged com-
ponents. If the exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the exhaust sys-
tern.
4. Exhaust sounds loud
a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange
bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets.
b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally
broken baffles or worn packing material.
c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes
or with non-original equipment silencers.
NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not
be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts,
damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface
cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to ex-
haust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to
exhaust flow and loss of power.
1. Transmission shit& erratically
a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to
obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the recommended fluid type when adding
transmission fluid.
b. Check the fluid level condition. If the fluid has become contaminated, fatigued from
excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter us-
ing the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor
indicates that the transmission has been slipping internally and may require future re-
pairs.
c. Check for an improperly installed transmission filter, or missing filter gasket, and re-
pair as necessary.
d. Check for loose or leaking gaskets, pressure lines and fittings, and repair or replace as
necessary.
e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and re-
pair as necessary. ,
2. Transmission will not engage
a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as nec-
essary. b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended
fluid.
c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the
proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal
and disassembly.
3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and
repair or replace defective components.
b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage ad-
justment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.
NOTE: Mlany automatic transmissions use an electronic control module,
electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When
troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical
connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If nec-
essary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The
use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts
could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

TROUBLESHOOTlNGll-11
b. Driveshaft misaligned. Check for collapsed or damaged engine and transmission
mounts, and replace as necessary.
c. Driveshaft bent or out of balance. Replace damaged components and reinstall.
d. Driveshaft out of balance. Remove the driveshaft and have it balanced by a competent
professional, or replace the driveshaft assembly.
NOTE: Most driveshafts are linked together by universal joints; however,
some manufacturers use Constant Velocity (CV) joints or rubber flex cou-
plers.
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive.
2. Front or rear wheel vibrates wlth Increased speed
a. Check for a bent rim and replace, if damaged.
b. Check the tires for balance or internal damage and replace if defective.
c. Check for a loose, worn or damaged wheel bearing and replace if defective.
d. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive.
Front Wheel Drive Vehicles
3. Front wheel makes a c&kin@ noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defec-
tive. 4. Rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles
5. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise
a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully re-
move the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp
object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.
6. Rear wheel shudders or vibrates
a. Check for a bent rear wheel or axle assembly and replace defective components.
b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn rear wheel bearing and replace as necessary.
1. Burning odor from center of vehicle when accelerating
a. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the
caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear
and caliper-to-piston clearance. For additional information on brake related odors, re-
fer to section 3-A, condition number 9.
b. On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping clutch. For possible
causes and additional information, refer to section Z-C, condition number 1.
c. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition, Top
off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts, lubricant
type and amount. If the odor persists, transmission removal and disassembly will be
necessary.
2. Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
a. On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping or damaged clutch. For
possible causes and additional information refer to section Z-C, condition number 1.
b. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition. Top
off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts, lubricant
type and amount. If the slipping continues, transmission removal and disassembly will
be necessary.
1. Brake pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed
a. Check wheel lug nut torque and tighten evenly to specification.
b. Check the brake rotor for trueness and thickness variations. Replace the rotor if it is
too thin, warped, or if the thickness varies beyond specification. Some rotors can be
machined: consult the manufacturer’s specifications and recommendations before us-
ing a machined brake rotor.
c. Check the brake caliper or caliper bracket mounting bolt torque and inspect for loose-
ness. Torque the mounting bolts and inspect for wear or any looseness, including
worn mounting brackets, bushings and sliding pins.
d. Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If the bearing is loose, adjust if possible, oth-
erwise replace the bearing.
2. Brakes make a squealing noise
a. Check the brake rotor for the presence of a ridge on the outer edge; if present, remove
the ridge or replace the brake rotor and brake pads.
b. Check for debris in the brake lining material, clean and reinstall.
c. Check the brake linings for wear and replace the brake linings if wear is approaching
the lining wear limit.
d. Check the brake linings for glazing. Inspect the brake drum or rotor surface and re-
place, along with the brake linings, if the surface is not smooth or even.
e. Check the brake pad or shoe mounting areas for a lack of lubricant or the presence of
surface rust. Clean and lubricate with a recommended high temperature brake grease.
3. Brakes make a flrindinfl noise
a. Check the brake linings and brake surface areas for severe wear or damage. Replace
worn or damaged parts.
b. Check for a seized or partially seized brake causing premature or uneven brake wear,
excessive heat and brake rotor or drum damage. Replace defective parts and inspect
the wheel bearing condition, which could have been damaged due to excessive heat.
4. Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
a. Check for air in the brake hydraulic system. Inspect the brake hydraulic seals, fluid
lines and related components for fluid leaks. Remove the air from the brake system by bleeding the brakes. Be sure to use fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturers rec-
ommended standards.
b. Check for an internally restricted flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and
flush the brake system.
c. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the
caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear
and caliper-to-piston clearance. Overhaul or replace failed parts and flush the brake
system.
d. Check the vehicle’s alignment and inspect for suspension wear. Replace worn bush-
ings, ball joints and set alignment to the manufacturers specifications.
e. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect
for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.
5. Brake pedal feels spongy or has excessive travel
a. Check the brake fluid level and condition. If the fluid is contaminated or has not been
flushed every two years, clean the master cylinder reservoir, and bleed and flush the
brakes using fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturers recommended standards.
b. Check for a weak or damaged flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose and
flush the brake system.
c. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect
for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.
6. Brake pedal feel is firm, but brakes lack sufficient stopping power or
fade
a. Check the operation of the brake booster and brake booster check valve: Replace worn
or failed parts.
b. Check brake linings and brake surface areas for glazing and replace worn or damaged
parts.
c. Check for seized hydraulic parts and linkages, and clean or replace as needed.
7. Vehicle has excessive front end dive or locks rear brakes too easily
a. Check for worn, failed or seized brake proportioning valve and replace the valve.
b. Check for a seized, disconnected or missing spring or linkage for the brake propor-
tioning valve. Replace missing parts or repair as necessary.

II-14 TROUBLESHOOTING
b. Check for low voltage at the bulb socket positive terminal or a poor ground. If voltage
is low, or the ground marginal, trace the wiring to, and check for loose, damaged or
corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as necessary.
c. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
1. Interior light inoperative
a. Verify the interior light switch location and position(s), and set the switch in the cor-
rect position.
b. Check for battery voltage and ground at the interior light bulb socket. If battery voltage
and ground are present, replace the bulb. If voltage is not present, check the interior
light fuse for battery voltage. If the fuse is missing, replace the fuse. If the fuse has
blown, or if battery voltage is present, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot the
cause for an open or shorted circuit. If ground is not present, check the door switch
contacts and clean or repair as necessary.
2. Interior light works intermittent/y
a. Check the bulb for a damaged filament, and replace if damaged.
b. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
c. Check for loose, damaged or corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as neces-
sary.
d. Check the door and light switch operation, and replace if necessary.
3. Interior light very dim
a. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
b. Check for low voltage at the bulb socket positive terminal or a poor ground. If voltage
is low, or the ground marginal, trace the wiring to, and check for loose, damaged or
corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as necessary.
c. Check the door and light switch operation, and replace if necessary.
1. One brake light inoperative
a. PressPress the brake pedal and check for battery voltage and ground at the brake light
bulb socket. If present, replace the bulb. If either battery voltage or ground is not pre-
sent, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
2. Both brake lights inoperative
a. Press the brake pedal and check for battery voltage and grou’nd at the brake light bulb
socket. If present, replace both bulbs. If battery voltage is not present, check the brake
light switch adjustment and adjust as necessary. If the brake light switch is properly
adjusted, and battery voltage or the ground is not present at the bulb sockets, or at the
bulb electrical connector with the brake pedal pressed, refer to the wiring diagram to
troubleshoot the cause of an open circuit.
3. One or both brake lights very dim
a. Press the brake pedal and measure the voltage at the brake light bulb socket. If the
measured voltage is close to the battery voltage, check for a poor ground caused by a
loose, damaged, or corroded wire, terminal, bulb or bulb socket. If the ground is
bolted to a painted surface, it may be necessary to remove the electrical connector and
clean the mounting surface, so the connector mounts on bare metal. If battery voltage
is low, check for a poor connection caused by either a faulty brake light switch, a
loose, damaged, or corroded wire, terminal or electrical connector. Refer to the wiring
diagram to troubleshoot the cause of a voltage drop.
1. Warning light(s) stay on when the engine is started
Ignition, Battery or Alternator Warning light a. Check the alternator output and voltage regulator operation, and replace as necessary.
b. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted wire.
Check Engine Light a. Check the engine for routine maintenance and tune-up status. Note the engine tune-up
specifications and verify the spark plug, air filter and engine oil condition; replace
and/or adjust items as necessary.
b. Check the fuel tank for low fuel level, causing an intermittent lean fuel mixtur
e. Top off fuel tank and reset check engine light.
c. Check for a failed or disconnected engine fuel or ignition component, sensor or con-
trol unit and repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check the intake manifold and vacuum hoses for air leaks and repair as
necessary.
e. Check the engine’s mechanical condition for excessive oil consumption.
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light a. Check the wheel sensors and sensor rings for debris, and clean as necessary.
b. Check the brake master cylinder for fluid leakage or seal failure and replace as neces-
sary.
c, Check the ABS control unit, pump and proportioning valves for proper operation; re-
place as necessary.
d. Check the sensor wiring at the wheel sensors and the ABS control unit for a loose or
shorted wire, and repair as necessary.
brake Warning Light a. Check the brake fluid level and check for possible leakage from the hydraulic lines and
seals. Top off brake fluid and repair leakage as necessary.
b. Check the brake linings for wear and replace as necessary.
c. Check for a loose or shot-ted brake warning light sensor or wire, and replace or repair
as necessary.
Oil Pressure Warning Light a. Stop the engine immediately. Check the engine oil level and oil filter condition, and
top off or change the oil as necessary.
b. Check the oil pressure sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Disconnect the wire
from the oil pressure sensor and with the ignition in the ON position, but not running,
the oil pressure light should not be working. If the light works with the wire discon-
nected, check the sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Check the wire routing to
make sure the wire is not pinched and check for insulation damage. Repair or replace
the wire as necessary and recheck before starting the engine.
c. Remove the oil pan and check for a clogged oil pick-up tube screen.
d. Check the oil pressure sensor operation by substituting a known good sensor.
e. Check the oil filter for internal restrictions or leaks, and replace as necessary.
WARNING: If the engine is operated with oil pressure below the manufac-
turer’s specification, severe (and costly) engine damage could occur. Low
oil pressure can be caused by excessive internal wear or damage to the en-
gine bearings, oil pressure relief valve, oil pump or oil pump drive mecha-
nism.
Before starting the engine, check for possible causes of rapid oil loss, such as leaking
oil lines or a loose, damaged, restricted, or leaking oil filter or oil pressure sensor. If the
engine oil level and condition are acceptable, measure the engine’s oil pressure using a
pressure gauge, or determine the cause for the oil pressure warning light to function
when the engine is running, before operating the engine for an extended period of time.
Another symptom of operating an engine with low oil pressure is the presence of severe
knocking and tapping noises.
Parking Brake Warning Light a. Check the brake release mechanism and verify the parking brake has been fully re-
leased.
b. CheckCheck the parking brake light switch for looseness or misalignment.
c. CheckCheck for a damaged switch or a loose or shorted brake light switch wire, and
replace or repair as necessary.
2. Warning light(s) flickers on and off when driving
Ignition, Battery or Alternator Warning Light a. Check the alternator output and voltage regulator operation. An intermittent condition
may indicate worn brushes, an internal short, or a defective voltage regulator. Replace
the alternator or failed component.
b. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted, pinched or damaged wire and repair as
necessary.
Check Engine Light a. Check the engine for required maintenance and tune-up status. Verify engine tune-up
specifications, as well as spark plug, air filter and engine oil condition; replace and/or
adjust items as necessary.
b. Check the fuel tank for low fuel level causing an intermittent lean fuel mixture. Top off
fuel tank and reset check engine light.
c. Check for an intermittent failure or partially disconnected engine fuel and ignition
component, sensor or control unit; repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check the intake manifold and vacuum hoses for air leaks, and repair as necessary.
e. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted, pinched or damaged wire and repair as
necessary.
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light a. Check the wheel sensors and sensor rings for debris, and clean as necessary.
b. Check the brake master cylinder for fluid leakage or seal failure and replace as neces-
sary.
c. Check the ABS control unit, pump and proportioning valves for proper operation, and
replace as necessary.

ADJUSTMENTS 2-3
ADJUSTMENTS 2-5
ADJUSTMENTS 7-2
AIR BAG (SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM) 6-7
AIR CONDITIONING COMPONENTS 6-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-11
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) I-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION I-14
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28
ALLWHEELDRIVEMODELS l-44
ALTERNATOR 2-8
ALTERNATORPRECAUTIONS 2-8
ANTENNA IO-4
REPLACEMENT IO-4
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM 9-24
ANTI-LOCK CONTROL UNIT 9-27
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-27
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLEASSEMBLY 7-10
ADJUSTMENTS 7-13
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 7-10
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE 7-10
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36
DRAIN &REFILL l-36
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36
LEVELCHECK l-36
PAN&FILTER SERVICE l-36
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMON MISTAKES l-2
AVOIDINGTROUBLE l-2
AXLE HOUSING ASSEMBLY 7-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 7-16
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH 7-2
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-2
BALANCE SHAFT 3-54
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-54
BASIC ELECTRICAL THEORY 6-2
HOW DOES ELECTRlClTYWORK:THEWATERANALOGY 6-2
OHM'S LAW 6-2
BASIC FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 5-2
BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES 9-2
DISC BRAKES 9-2
DRUMBRAKES 9-2 .
POWER BOOSTERS 9-2
BATTERY CABLES 6-7
BATTERY I-16
BATTERYFLUID I-16
CABLES I-17
CHARGING I-18
GENERALMAINTENANCE I-16
PRECAUTIONS 1-16
REPLACEMENT I-18
BELTS I-18
ADJUSTMENT I-18
INSPECTION I-18
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 1-18
BLEEDING BRAKESYSTEM 9-7
BLEEDING THEABS SYSTEM 9-30
BLOWERMOTOR 6-7
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-7
BODYLUBRICATIONANDMAINTENANCE l-43
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED RETAINERS l-6
BRAKE CALIPER 9-11
OVERHAUL 9-12
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-11
BRAKE DISC (ROTOR) 9-13
1
INSPECTION 9-14
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-13
BRAKEDRUMS 9-16
INSPECTION 9-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION. 9-16
BRAKE HOSESAND LINES 9-6
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-6
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH 9-3

MASTER INDEX 11-23
GENERALINFORMAITON 3-65
INSPECTION 3-65
REFINISHING 3-67
ENGINE FAN 3-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-19
ENGINE MECHANICAL 3-1
ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS 3-58
CLEANING 3-58
OVERHAUL TIPS 3-58
REPAIRING DAMAGEDTHREADS 3-59
TOOLS 3-58
ENGINE PREPARATION 3-59
ASSEMBLY 3-64
DISASSEMBLY 3-60
INSPECTION 3-
REFINISHING & REPAIRING 3-63
ENGINE RECONDITIONING 3-57
ENGINE START-UP AND BREAK-IN
3-69
BREAKING IT IN 3-69
KEEP IT MAINTAINED 3-69
STARTING THE ENGINE 3-69
ENGINE 'l-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE 1-34
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
ENGINE 3-1
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 3-l
ENGlNECONTROLUNIT/POWERTRAINCONTROLMODULE(ECU/PCM)
4-7
OPERATION 4-7
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-7
ENGINECOOLANTTEMPERATURESENSOR
4-10
OPERATION 4-10
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-10
TESTING 4-10
ENGINECOOLANTTEMPERATURESENDING
UNIT 2-11
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-11
TESTING 2-11
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 6-14
EVAPORATIVECANISTER I-16
SERVICING 1-16
' EVAPORATIVEEMISSIONCONTROLS 4-2
COMPONENTTESTING 4-3
OPERATION 4-2
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-4
EXHAUST MANIFOLD 3-14
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-14
EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-55
EXHAUSTGASRECIRCULATION SYSTEM
4-5
COMPONENTTESTING 4-5
OPERATION 4-5
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-6
EXTERIOR 1 O-2
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 1-6
. FENDERS 10-4
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-4
FIRING ORDERS 2-7
FLASHERS 6-28
REPLACEMENT 6-28
FLOOR CONSOLE IO-6
REMOVAL& INSTALLATION IO-6 1
FLUID PAN 7-10
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLYWHEEVDRIVEPLATE 3-55
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-55
FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL 3-48
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-48
FRONT SUSPENSION 8-4 FRONTWHEELDRIVEMODELS 1-44
FUELANDENGINEOILRECOMMENDATIONS 1-33
ENGINEOIL l-33
FUEL 1-33
OPERATION IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES
1-33
FUEL LINE FITTINGS 5-2
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 5-2
FUEL RAIL AND INJECTORS(S)
5-4
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-4
TESTING 5-8
FUELSYSTEM SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 5-3
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS 5-2
FUELPRESSUREREGULATOR 5-9
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-9
FUEL TANK 5-10
FUSES 6-27
REPLACEMENT 6-27
FUSIBLE LINKS 6-27 #
RESETTING AND/OR REPLACEMENT 6-28
GAUGES 6-18
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-18
GENERAL INFORMATION 5-3
GENERAL INFORMATION 6-7
DISARMING 6-7
REARMING 6-7
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 6-7
GENERAL INFORMATION 9-24
PRECAUTIONS 9-24
GENERALINFORMATION 2-10
GENERALINFORMATION 2-2
CYLINDER DROPTEST 2-2
SECONDARYSPARKTEST 2-2
GENERALINFORMATION 2-5
GENERALINFORMATION 2-8
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 2-9'
TESTING 2-8
GENERALINFORMATION 4-26
CHECKENGlNE/MALFUNCTlONlNDlCATOR LIGHT 4-26
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 4-26
GENERALINFORMATION 4-27
G-SENSOR 9-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-29
HALFSHAFTS 7-13
HALFSHAFTS 7-3
CV-JOINTS OVERHAUL 7-5
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 7-3
HATCH/TAILGATE/TRUNKLID LOCKCYLINDER lo-10
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
HATCH IO-3
ALIGNMENT IO-3
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-3
HEADLIGHT SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL 81 INSTALLATION 6-19
HEADLIGHTS 6-19
AIMING THE HEADLIGHTS 6-20
REMOVAL& INSTALLATION 6-19
HEATER CORE 6-9
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-9
HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING 6-7
HOOD IO-2
ALIGNMENT IO-3
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-2
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION I-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION I-21
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2
HUB & BEARINGS 8-25