2008 GEELY CK ESP

347(XIII) Carpet and Heat InsulatorCarpet and Heat Insulator Diagram
Carpet and Heat Insulator Diagram
1. Carpet 2. Cowl Lower Sound Insulator 3. Cowl Upper Sound Insulator 4 . Cowl Outer
Panel Heat Insulator 5. Foot Pedal 6. Cross Pan Head Screw 7. Floor Sound Insulator
1. Removal
1Remove the front and rear seats, left front door sill, right front door sill, right B pillar lower inside trim, left
B pillar lower inside trim, right rear door sill, left rear door sill, front and rear part of the auxiliary console;
2Remove the cross pan head screw and remove the foot pedal.
3Remove carpet and cowl lower sound insulator, cowl upper sound insulator, cowl outer panel heat insulator.
2. Installation
1Install the accelerator pedal assembly, brake and clutch pedal assembly, parking brake control mechanism
assembly onto the vehicle body;
2Install the carpet to the corresponding hole. Install both sides of the carpet under the left front door sill,
right front door sill, right B pillar lower inside trim, left B pillar lower inside trim, right rear door sill, left
rear door sill.1 27 3
4
65

349VTake out the rear trunk carpet, spare tire cover board and the rear trunk miscelleaneous box. Screw the
spare tire press plate assembly to take out the spare tire.
2. Installation
1Clip the rear trunk inside trim onto the corresponding hole in the reserve order of the removal;
2Install the right rear and left rear combination lamp access hole cover;
3Install the right and left speaker grill to the rear partition inside trim with a cross screwdriver;
4Install the rear partition inside trim to the vehicle body;
5Install the high mounted stop lamp and the C- pillar upper inside trim.(XV) Engine Hood Inside TrimEngine Hood Inside Trim Diagram:
Engine Hood Inside Trim
1. Engine Hood Inside Trim 2. E-Clip
1. Removal
1Open the engine hood and gas spring;
2Remove the clip and remove the engine hood inside trim
2. Installation
1Open the installed engine hood and gas spring;
2Align the corresponding hole position in the the engine hood inside trim and press the clip in by hand.
2 1

366II. Removable Sheet Metal Parts
(I) Engine Hood, Front Fender1. Engine hood is mainly used to protect the engine, meet the whole vehicle design, and make the mainte-
nance convenient. It also has an effect of isolating the engine noise. The engine hood has a double-insurance
lock system. The release of the first lock is controlled by the drawing cable that is under the instrument panel.
As to the release of the second lock, you should firstly release the first one and the hood will open, and then
move the hood lock hook. The double-insurance lock system is designed for safety, especially in the course
of running with a high-speed, to prevent the engine hood from being raised, which often causes traffic
accidents. The angle of the hood that is fully opened is 52°.As shown in Figure 5-8
Figure 5-8 Engine Hood Hinge
1Hinge Bracket 2 Hinge Arm 3 Pin Shaft(II) Front FenderThe matching relationship between the front fender and hood, front door is as shown in the Figure 5-9.
Figure 5-9 Section Around The Front Fender
A) The matching relationship with the hood (5mm ± 0.5mm)
B) The matching relationship with the front door (5mm ± 0.5mm) 13252
†while fully open
Engine Hood
outer plate
Engine Hood
inner plate
AEngine HoodFront fender
Front door
Front fender
B

372Section 2 Typical Technology Of Body Panel RepairThe flow line of the repair technology is as follows:Section 3 Repair after Body DamageBody repair methods include calibration, reshaping, strengthening, partial replacement and renewing of a
whole part. CO2 gas protecting welding should be adopted when welded.I. Reshaping1. Calibration
The deformation of the body is usually caused by an accident. You can calibrate it by propping to its former
location. When calibrating, impose force in the opposite direction of the outside force or deformation force.
Under the most circumstances, calibration in a cool status can be adopted. The internal stress can be re-
moved by partial heating. Then you can do some corresponding aging treatment.
It is better to use body calibration machine for car body calibration. Geometric dimension and tolerance can
be restored to the former standard. Power, economy and comfortableness can be assured.
The body repair begins with a process of preliminary calibration or rough calibration. The body deformation
can be removed by propping back to its former location. The angle of the applied force for propping back
should be almost the same with the outside force that causes damage. Reaction force should be imposed at
the back of the pulling action point to make the propping force adjustable. Inspect the deformation during the
process of propping back. Proper heating is applied on correspondent parts to remove internal stress.
2. Strengthening
When partial damage, break or crackle occur on structural components, strengthening is allowed, especially
to be applied in those parts where damage often occurs. Willful strengthening or repair welding should be
avoided, because it will affect the stressing status on body.
The main ways of strengthening are sleeving and bracket reinforcement.
3. Partial And Whole Part Replacement
The parts that are badly rusted should be partially replaced. What is broken and damaged should be replace
a new one. The post pillar is pressed and molded adopting thin sheet. Parts and components are brought from
manufacturers. When they are molded by you, material, section dimension, and thickness etc should accord
with their original design requirements. When the broken post pillar (incl. cross member) is wholly replaced,
the connection way must be the same with the original one.
Appearance assessment Disassembly Paint removal Appraisal
Panel repair
AssemblyPainting

3742. Repair Of Outer Plate
1 11 1
1Repair of crackle
The crackle on the metal outer plate can be repaired by CO2 gas Protecting welding. When welded, the
two sides of the metal plate should be aligned, and then spot-weld on the outside of the outer plate. If the
crackle length is less than 50mm, it should be welded from the crackle end, and along the run of the
crackle and the outside edge. If the crackle length is very long, it should be spot-welded in some intervals,
and then weld the crackle in several sections. So, it can prevent the crackle metal from being over-burnt
and warping because of an extremely high temperature.
If the crackle appears on the place that is greatly loaded and it is very convenient to weld, 2-step welding
can be adopted, that is, After spot-welding on the outside, then you can first weld on the inside of the
crackle. After that, a welding seam is then applied on the outside in the same run.
After the welding finishes, put a backing block under the crackle, and then use a hammer to gently knock
on the outside of the crackle to remove the remaining welding stress. Finally, trim the appearance of the
crackle to make it smooth and convenient to apply paint.
2 22 2
2Repair of partial damage of the outer plate
When the outer plate has partial rust or serious damage and even cannot be repaired, it can be mended by
cutting off the damage or pasting a new one on it.
How to cut off the damage:
a. Confirm the area that needs cutting;
b. Cut a paper example;
c. Cut the metal plate according to the paper example;
d. Paste the metal piece cut onto the surface of the area that needs cutting off;
e. Use a draw needle tip to make an outline along the sides of the metal piece. And cut off the
damaged or rusted area along the outline;
f. Use a wooden hammer or a backing block to smooth the cut, and use a file to file the burr, to assure
that the cut is parallel with both sides of the substitute piece and the clearance should be no more
than 1mm;
g. Substitute the damaged area with the piece. Use pliers to hold it and spot-weld the joint in an
interval of 50mm for fixation;
h. Weld in sections. First weld the central part and then the left and right in turn, to avoid deformation;
i. Use a hammer or block to knock on the seam to remove the remaining stress. And use a file or
hand grindstone to grind the seam to make it smooth to the plates around. Finally, paint the substitute
piece.
3 33 3
3Repair of uneven damage of the outer plate caused by crash
When the outer plate is crashed, a concave pit appears on it. The repair should be taken from the point C
(Figure 5-17). Put the block on the top of the protrusion area, use a hammer to knock it and correspondingly
change the position of the block. After the protrusion area is knocked down to the level, most of concave
in B area will spring back. It is already very much like the former outline of the plate. As to some little
remaining depressions, use a block with a same radian with the plate and use a hand to press the block
upwards. Knock the top point of the concave with a hammer (Figure 5-19).

375At the beginning of knocking it, make your force slightly greater. In the finishing period of repair, make
your force softer and try your best to reduce the beating times. Make sure not to knock one point for too
many times to avoid extending on partial area of the metal plate, which may make the repair complex.
As to the concave with a comparatively big radian, a backing plate whose area should be comparatively
big can be put under the center of the concave. Directly push up the depressed plate by a propping-up
tool. Sometimes, the concave place can be heated to dark red to reduce the pushing force. A slight rise is
recommended when pushing up. (Figure 5-20)
Heat-shrinkable method:
After the concave area is pushed up, if the plate is greatly stretched and its area is too big to repair, the
heat-shrinkable method can be adopted.
Use oxygen-acetylene flame to heat to cherry red. The area of heating depends to its extension degree.
The heating area should be bigger (Diameter approx. 20-30mm), when it is seriously extended or the area
is big. If it is slightly extended or the area is small, the heating area should be smaller (Diameter approx.
10-15mm). Quickly knock the heated points with a wooden hammer while they are hot. A backing block
is recommended to push it up. After it cools down, use an iron hammer to gently knock for smoothness.
The shrinkage order is from the highest point gradually to the center and then to the edge. Heat and then
flatten the extended area repeatedly, till the plate is completely flat. If the protrusion is very high, first
compress the whole protrusion to its half. After it cools down, heat the former heating point to remove the
rest half of the protrusion.
When the method is applied, it must be specially noted that you'd better not use the heat-shrinkage
method to avoid side effects. Especially for thin plates, prevent them from being melted through hole..
When the outer plate is lightly crashed and the depressed area belongs to elastic deformation, you may
press its inside to recover to its former shape.
Some depressed area can be repair by prying which is a repair method without disassembling parts. YouIllustration 5-18 Panel Flattening (A)
A Concave Point B Protrusion Point C Knocking PointIllustration 5-19 Panel Flattening (B)
1 Hammer 2 Panel Parts 3 Backing BlockFigure 5-20 Heat and flatten the protrusion
1 heating point

3812 Adopt sound insulating material to reduce the noise in the compartment.
For the heat, vibration and sound insulation of the body, they are a systematic engineering. Besides you
take measures on effectively improving the rigidity of the body and sealing technique, the following
measures can be taken in the body design and manufacturing:
a. Sound insulating material: paste a layer of asphalt board on the floor and FR/RR fenders. Add
insulation pads on the cowl and the floor.
b. Sound absorbing material: adopt formed carpet which is composed of front floor carpet and rear
floor carpet.
The FR/RR floor carpets are integrated with the floor and sound absorbing pad. It is required that the
floor and the pad will not peeled when torn by outside force.
3. Sealing
An elaborate concern is taken from design and manufacturing on the body sealing. Sealing is very important
for the operation performance of dust prevention, water proofing, corrosion prevention, heat protection, heat
preservation, noise reduction, etc. Especially, the floor and cowl are located in the harshest outside environment.
The mud splashing from road, dust and sand, wheel noise, engine noise and hot air will get in the interior
environment by every opening.
After the body assemble welding completes, apply a line of sealant on all joints of the body to avoid water and
vapor permeating into the metal joint and also to ensure the quality for the following painting.(Figure 5-25).
Besides, a layer of stone-strike proofing paint is applied on the bottom of the body. The paint has good sealing
effect. For the sealing of mounting parts on the body, traditional methods are generally adopted, such as
rubber sealing ring, cover, rubber strip, special-shaped sealing strip, etc. But in order to make more minute
and rigorous considerations in design and manufacturing of structural parts and the stability of the dimension
relationship of contacting sealing. For windshield and rear back door glass, a natural-curing high-tensile
sealant is adopted in sealing. It represents the advanced modern techniques in reliability and mounting technology.5-25 1. 2. 3. Figure 5-39 Area Where Chloride Ethylene Plastisol Is Applied
1. Front Mud Guard 2. Rear Side Wall 3. Rear Wheel HouseFront