2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 engine

SPRINGS-VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for intake and
exhaust applications. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to
control lubrication.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2),
remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in
place when the spring is removed
NOTE: All eight valve springs and seals are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor,
compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.

INSTALLATION
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is
fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of
the seal is intact.
2. Install the spring (6) and the spring retainer (2).
3. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor,
compress the spring and install the two valve
spring retainer halves.
4. Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
5. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker
arms.
6. Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

INSPECTION
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to mea-
sure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore
gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.)
INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at
three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crank-
shaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to
the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the
bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diame-
ter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps
above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the dif-
ference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm
(0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper orout- of-round condition exceeds these
maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore
after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

3. Use piston ring compressor (3) and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (4) to install the rod and piston
assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The “F”’s near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the
engine.
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap
Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod (1)..
The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plasti-
gage across full width of the lower insert at the
center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble
in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.

5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the jour-
nal and tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of
bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.
Plastigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearancevaries,itmaybecausedbyeithera
tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign
material trapped between the insert and cap or
rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of
the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the
Plastigage (2) from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm
(.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.)
Std.STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm
(2.0076-2.0082 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 50.758-50.742 mm
(.010 in.) (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which service bearing set to use, using the
chart above.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your
bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install
the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting
rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to Engine
Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the
connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.

PLUGS - CORE
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
2. Using a blunt tool such as a drift or a screw driver
and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup
plug (5).
3. Using a suitable pair of pliers, grasp the core plug
(5) and remove.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Thoroughly clean core plug bore, remove all of the old sealer.
1. Coat the edges of the engine core plug and the core plug bore with Mopar Gasket Maker, or equivalent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to wait for the sealant to cure on the core plugs. The cooling system can be filled
and the vehicle returned to service immediately.
2. Using proper plug driver, drive core plug into the core plug bore. The sharp edge of the core plug should be at
least 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead in chamfer.
3. Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design with eight
counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by five select fit main bearings with the number
three serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod
bearing lubrication. The number eight counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel
mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear sideof the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in
to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine, the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
1. Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL).
2. Remove the engine oil pump. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted to
the cylinder block in three locations and will remain attached to block when removing oil pan. Gasket can
not be removed with oil pan.
3. Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan gasket /windage tray.
5. Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the location of the three stud bolts for installation.
6. Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as
not to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing
main bearing halves in the wrong position will
cause sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it.
Use these points only. The pry points are on both
the left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
7. Carefully pry on the pry points to loosen the bed-
plate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use
care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
8. Remove the crankshaft.