2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 Crankshaft

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the following components:
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -REMOVAL).
Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL) and
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation.Pistons and connecting rods
must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps,as damage to con-
necting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and shouldbe marked before removing
to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine dam-
age may occur.
5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being
removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for eachpiston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine damage may occur
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to prevent
damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or connecting
rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.
1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into thecylinder bore (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Checkthe ring lands for cracks and/or deteri-
oration.

INSTALLATION
1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assem-
blies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine
oil. Position a ring compressor (3) over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that
hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting
rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine
oil.
4. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides
(4) into connecting rod bolt threads.
5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore sur-
face with an raised “F” indicating installation posi-
tion (1). This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The con-
necting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the
engine.
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine
oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on
the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston
into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting
rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer
handle. While at the same time, guide connecting
rodintopositiononrodjournal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components:
Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTAL-
LATION).

DAMPER-CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
3. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
4. Remove radiator upper hose.
5. Remove upper fan shroud.
6. Using Special Tools 6958 Spanner with Adapter
Pins 8346 (1), loosen fan and viscous assembly
from water pump.
7. Remove fan and viscous assembly.
8. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted
inside radiator shroud.
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert
and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (2).

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512–A, thoroughly
clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
1. Align crankshaft damper slot with key in crankshaft.
Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512–A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
2. Assemble Special Tool 8512–A as follows, The nut
(2) is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing (1) is placed onto the threaded rod (3)
(The hardened bearing surface of the bearing (1)
MUSTface the nut (2). Then the hardened washer (5) slides onto the threaded rod.Once assembled coat the
threaded rod’s threads with Mopar
Nickel Anti-Seize or equivalent.
3. Using Special Tool 8512–A, press damper onto
crankshaft (1).
4. Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to 175
Nꞏm (130 ft. lbs.).
5. Install fan blade assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
6. Install radiator upper shroud and tighten fasteners
to 11 Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.).
7. Connect electrical connector for shroud fan.
8. Install radiator upper hose.
9. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
10. Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
11. Connect negative cable to battery.

LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.
OPERATION
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Block: Table 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
4. Counterbalance Shaft Rear Journal
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1. Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2. Counterbalance Shaft - Front Journal
3. Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
Right Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to thecylinder heads
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder Heads: Table 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to front) 1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.

Oil from the oil pan is pumped by a gerotor type oil pump (9) directly mountedto the crankshaft nose. Oil pressure
is controlled by a relief valve mounted inside the oil pump housing.
The camshaft exhaust valve lobes and rocker arms are lubricated through a small hole in the rocker arm; oil flows
through the lash adjuster then through the rocker arm and onto the camshaftlobe. Due to the orientation of the
rocker arm, the camshaft intake lobes are not lubed in the same manner as theexhaust lobes. The intake lobes are
lubed through internal passages in the camshaft. Oil flows through a bore in the No. 3 camshaft bearing bore, and
as the camshaft turns, a hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole in the camshaft bore allowing engine oil to enter
the camshaft tube. The oil then exits through 1.6mm (0.063 in.) holes drilled into the intake lobes, lubricating the
lobes and the rocker arms.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sending unit (2) and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check
for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief
valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).