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B (LOCK): This is the only position in which you can
insert or remove the key. This position locks the
ignition, steering wheel and transaxle. It's a
theft
-deterrent feature.
NOTICE:
If your key seems stuck in LOCK and you can't
turn it, be sure you are using the correct key;
if so, is it all the way in? If it is, then turn the
steering wheel left and right while you turn the
key hard. Turn the key only with your hand.
Using a tool to force it could break the key or
the ignition switch. If none of this works, then
your vehicle needs service.
C (OFF): This position lets you turn off the engine but
still turn the steering wheel. It doesn't lock the steering
wheel. Use OFF if you must have your vehicle pushed
or towed.D (RUN): This position is where the key returns to
after you start your vehicle. With the engine off, you
can use RUN to display some of your warning and
indicator lights.
E (START): This position starts your engine.
A warning chime will sound if you open the driver's
door when the ignition is in OFF, LOCK or
ACCESSORY and the key is in the ignition.
Retained Accessory Power (RAP)
With Retained Accessory Power (RAP), your power
windows, audio system and sunroof (if equipped) will
continue to work for up to 10 minutes after the ignition
key is turned to OFF and before any of the doors
are opened.
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Starting Your Engine
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).
Your engine won't start in any other position
-- that's a
safety feature. To restart when you're already moving,
use NEUTRAL (N) only.
NOTICE:
Don't try to shift to PARK (P) if your vehicle
is moving. If you do, you could damage the
transaxle. Shift to PARK (P) only when your
vehicle is stopped.
NOTICE:
If you cannot remove your key from the ignition
and the gear shift is in PARK (P) (with the shift
lever button fully released), see ªShift Lock
Releaseº in the Index.
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn your
ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your
engine gets warm.
NOTICE:
Holding your key in START for longer than
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to
be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat
can damage your starter motor. Wait about
15 seconds between each try to help avoid
draining your battery or damaging your starter.
2. If it doesn't start within 10 seconds, hold your key
in START for about 10 seconds at a time until
your engine starts. Wait about 15 seconds between
each try.
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3. If your engine still won't start (or starts but then
stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to
the floor and holding it there as you hold the key
in START for about three seconds. If the vehicle
starts briefly but then stops again, do the same
thing. This time keep the pedal down for five or
six seconds to clear the extra gasoline from the
engine. After waiting about 15 seconds, repeat the
normal starting procedure.
NOTICE:
Your engine is designed to work with the
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical
parts or accessories, you could change the way
the engine operates. Before adding electrical
equipment, check with your dealer. If you don't,
your engine might not perform properly.
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
In very cold weather, 0F (-18C) or colder, the
engine coolant heater can help. You'll get easier starting
and better fuel economy during engine warm
-up.
Usually, the coolant heater should be plugged in a
minimum of four hours prior to starting your vehicle.
At temperatures above 32F (0C), use of the
coolant heater is not required.
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2-28 To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord.
The cord is attached to the underside of the
vehicle's diagonal brace, which is located above
the engine air cleaner/filter assembly.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110
-volt AC outlet.
CAUTION:
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet
could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong
kind of extension cord could overheat and cause
a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the
cord into a properly grounded three
-prong
11 0
-volt AC outlet. If the cord won't reach,
use a heavy
-duty three-prong extension cord
rated for at least 15 amps.
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug
and store the cord as it was before to keep it
away from moving engine parts. If you don't,
it could be damaged.
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged
in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the
kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead of
trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact
your dealer in the area where you'll be parking your
vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for
that particular area.
Automatic Transaxle Operation
Your automatic transaxle
has a shift lever on the
console between the seats.
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The above graphic is also displayed on your instrument
panel cluster.
Maximum engine speed is limited on automatic
transaxle vehicles when you're in PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) to protect driveline components
from improper operation.
There are several different positions for your shift lever.
PARK (P): This position locks your front wheels.
It's the best position to use when you start your engine
because your vehicle can't move easily.
CAUTION:
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the
shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don't leave your vehicle when the engine is
running unless you have to. If you have left the
engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your
vehicle won't move, even when you're on fairly
level ground, always set your parking brake
and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
See ªShifting Into PARK (P)º in the Index.
If you're pulling a trailer, see ªTowing a Trailerº
in the Index.
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Make sure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before
starting the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic
transaxle shift lock control system. You must fully apply
your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P)
when the ignition is in RUN. If you cannot shift out of
PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever by pushing it
all the way into PARK (P) while keeping the brake pedal
pushed down. Release the shift lever button. Then move
the shift lever out of PARK (P). See ªShifting Out of
PARK (P)º in the Index.
REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.
NOTICE:
Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle
is moving forward could damage your transaxle.
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle
is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow,
ice or sand without damaging your transaxle, see ªIf
You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snowº in the Index.NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine
doesn't connect with the wheels. To restart when you're
already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use
NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.
CAUTION:
Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) while
your engine is ªracingº (running at high speed) is
dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the
brake pedal, your vehicle could move very
rapidly. You could lose control and hit people
or objects. Don't shift out of PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is racing.
NOTICE:
Damage to your transaxle caused by shifting out
of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) with the engine
racing isn't covered by your warranty.
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AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (): This position is
for normal driving. If you need more power for passing,
and you're:
Going less than 35 mph (55 km/h), push your
accelerator pedal about halfway down.
Going about 35 mph (55 km/h) or more, push the
accelerator pedal all the way down.
You'll shift down to the next gear and have more power.
NOTICE:
If your vehicle seems to start up rather slowly,
or if it seems not to shift gears as you go faster,
something may be wrong with a transaxle system
sensor. If you drive very far that way, your
vehicle can be damaged. So, if this happens,
have your vehicle serviced right away. Until then,
you can use SECOND (2) when you are driving
less than 35 mph (55 km/h) and AUTOMATIC
OVERDRIVE () for higher speeds.
THIRD (3): This position is also used for normal
driving, but it offers more power and lower fuel
economy than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ().
Here are some times you might choose THIRD (3)
instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ():
When driving on hilly, winding roads.
When towing a trailer, so there is less shifting
between gears.
When going down a steep hill.
When driving in no
-highway scenarios
(i.e. city streets, etc.)
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SECOND (2): This position gives you more power but
lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on hills.
It can help control your speed as you go down steep
mountain roads, but then you would also want to use
your brakes off and on.
NOTICE:
Don't drive in SECOND (2) for more than
25 miles (40 km), or at speeds over 55 mph
(90 km/h), or you can damage your transaxle.
Use AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE () or
THIRD (3) as much as possible.
Don't shift into SECOND (2) unless you are going
slower than 65 mph (105 km/h), or you can
damage your engine.
FIRST (1): This position gives you even more power
(but lower fuel economy) than SECOND (2). You can
use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the
shift lever is put in FIRST (1), the transaxle won't shift
into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
NOTICE:
If your front wheels can't rotate, don't try to
drive. This might happen if you were stuck in
very deep sand or mud or were up against a
solid object. You could damage your transaxle.
Also, if you stop when going uphill, don't hold
your vehicle there with only the accelerator
pedal. This could overheat and damage the
transaxle. Use your brakes or shift into PARK (P)
to hold your vehicle in position on a hill.