1997 JAGUAR XJ6 oil change

These models are equipped with dual overhead cam in-line six-
cylinder engines. The engines feature a computer-controlled ignition
system and electronic fuel injection. Transmissions are a four-speed
automatic equipped with a lock-up torque converter. The transmission
is mounted to the back of the engine, and power is transmitted to the
fully independent rear axle through a two-piece propshaft. The
differential is bolted solidly to a frame crossmember and drives the
wheels through driveshafts equipped with inner and outer U-joints.
The front suspension is fitted with upper and lower control arms, coil
springs and shock absorbers. The rear suspension is an independent
type suspension which also have coil spring/shock absorber
assemblies and a lower control arm. The rear driveshaft acts as the
upper control arm.
Power-assisted Anti-lock Brake Systems (ABS) with four-wheel disc
brakes are standard equipment on all Jaguar XJ6 models covered in
this manual. Power rack-and-pinion steering is also standard
equipment.
Your Jaguar manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It
will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and
give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults
occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the
car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks
are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.
Notes for UK readers
Because this manual was originally written in the US, its layout
differs from our UK-originated manuals. The preliminary and reference
sections have been re-written specifically for the UK market, and the
maintenance schedule has been amended to suit UK vehicles.
However, it will be noticed that some references to componentsremain in the US style; the UK equivalent of US components and
various other US words is given in the Section headed “Use of
English”. It should be remembered that the project vehicle used in the
main Chapters of this manual was a left-hand drive US model;
therefore, the position of the steering wheel, steering column and
pedals, etc. will be on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK models.
References to “right” and “left” will need to be considered carefully to
decide which applies to UK models (eg the headlight dipped beams
should be adjusted to dip to the left of the headlight vertical line
described in Chapter 12, instead of to the right on US models). In other
instances, no reference is made to the location of a particular item, but
that item may be located on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK
models. Reference to the underbonnet photos at the start of Chapter 1
will give the reader the location of the engine compartment
components on UK models.
All specifications in the main Chapters of the manual appear in
Imperial form; the equivalent metric values can be calculated using the
“Conversion factors”page.
The only other major difference between UK and US models is in the
level of emission control equipment fitted to the vehicle. To meet the
strict emission standards present in the US, all vehicles for that market
are fitted with various emission control systems (see Chapter 6), most
of which are not fitted to the corresponding UK model, especially so on
early models. Therefore, a lot of the information contained in Chapter 6
is not applicable to UK models.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Jean Preis, Rich Wilson and Ray Marcuse of
Silver Star Jaguar (Thousand Oaks, CA), Rick Calaci of Conejo Imports
(Newbury Park, CA) and Jim Strohmeier and Jonathan Lund of British
Motor Cars (Thousand Oaks, CA), for providing valuable technical
information. Technical writers who contributed to this project include
Jeff Kibler, Robert Maddox and Jay Storer.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from, the information given.
0•4Introduction
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1989 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Safety first!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Roadside repairs0•9
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided. On some models with energy-
absorbing bumpers there are no front towing
eyes; on these vehicles the tow-rope shouldbe attached around the rear arm of the lower
control arm so that the rope passes on the
inside of the coil spring.
MBefore being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
MNote that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
MOn models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.
MThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
MMake sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
MOn models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
Caution: On models with automatic
transmission, if the vehicle is to be towed
with its rear wheels on the ground, and
extra 1.7 litres of fluid should be added to
the transmission, prior to towing (this extra
fluid must be drained before driving the
vehicle). Even with the extra fluid added to
the transmission, do not tow the vehicle at
speeds in excess of 30 mph (50 kmh) or for
a distance of greater than 15 miles (25 km).
If towing speed/distance are to exceed
these limits, then the vehicle must be
towed with its rear wheels off the ground.
Towing
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car and
to park it over some clean paper as an
aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•16Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Lubricants and fluids
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to API SG or higher (Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus,
Hypergrade, or 10W-40 Motor Oil)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based (phosphate free) antifreeze
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic)
Differential:
Standard differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE EP90 to API GL5 (Duckhams 80W-90S Gear Oil)
Powr-lok differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE 90 to API GL5 (Duckhams Hypoid 90 DL)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)
Power steering (with separate reservoir) .dependent on year of manufacture and system fitted - refer to your Jaguar dealer
Power hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . Castrol or Jaguar hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) Refer to your Jaguar dealer
Tyre pressures
Note:Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Note:Jaguar state that the tyre pressures maybe reduced by up to 8 psi (0.6 bar) on the front tyres and 6 psi (0.4 bar) on the rear
tyres to increase the ride comfort. This is only allowable if the vehicle is not to be driven at speeds in excess of 100 mph (160 kmh);
if speeds are to exceed this, the tyres must be run at the specified pressures.
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

1 General information
1This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
4As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the proximity of two otherwise-
unrelated components to one another. For
example, if the vehicle is raised for any
reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the
same time as the suspension and steering
components.
5The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the extent
of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.4The following series of operations are those
which are most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 6).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to “Weekly checks”).
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 16).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
f) Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 17).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 18).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (see
Chapter 6).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (refer to
Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 19).
1•6Maintenance procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
2
1Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy for mopping up
any spills.
3Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by
axle stands.
4If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
location of the oil drain plug. The engine and
3.2 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide in order to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves - When removing the drain
plug and filter, it is inevitable that you will
get oil on your hands (the gloves will
prevent burns)
3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is pretty tight and a long breaker bar is
needed to loosen it
4 Socket – To be used with the breaker bar
or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit
the drain plug)
5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type
wrench, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective
6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a
ratchet or breaker bar (different size
spanners are available for different types of
filters)

exhaust components will be warm during the
actual work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems before the engine and accessories
are hot.
5Park the vehicle on a level spot. Start the
engine and allow it to reach its normal
operating temperature (the needle on the
temperature gauge should be at least above
the bottom mark). Warm oil and contaminates
will flow out more easily. Turn off the engine
when it’s warmed up. Remove the oil filler cap
located next to the valve cover.
6Raise the vehicle and support it on axle
stands.
Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided
with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and replace
the wheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.
7Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug in the bottom of the pan and
remove the plug (see illustration). You may
want to wear gloves while unscrewing the
plug the final few turns if the engine is really
hot.
8Allow the old oil to drain into the pan. It may
be necessary to move the pan farther under
the engine as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
Inspect the old oil for the presence of metal
shavings and chips.
9After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Even minute metal
particles clinging to the plug would
immediately contaminate the new oil.
10Clean the area around the drain plug
opening, refit the plug and tighten it securely,
but do not strip the threads.
11Move the drain pan into position under the
oil filter.
12Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil in
the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
13Loosen the oil filter (see illustration)by
turning it anti-clockwise with the filter wrench.
Any standard filter wrench should work. Oncethe filter is loose, use your hands to unscrew
it from the block. Just as the filter comes
away from the block, immediately tilt the open
end up to prevent the oil inside the filter from
spilling out.
Warning: The engine exhaust
pipes may still be hot, so be
careful.
14With a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface on the block. If a residue of old oil is
allowed to remain, it will smoke when the
block is heated up. It will also prevent the new
filter from seating properly. Also make sure
that the none of the old gasket remains stuck
to the mounting surface. It can be removed
with a scraper if necessary.
15Compare the old filter with the new one to
make sure they are the same type. Smear
some engine oil on the rubber gasket of the
new filter and screw it into place (see
illustration). Because over-tightening the
filter will damage the gasket, do not use
a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Tighten it by
hand until the gasket contacts the seating
surface. Then seat the filter by giving it an
additional 3/4-turn.
16Add new oil to the engine through the oil
filler cap next to the valve cover. Use a spout
or funnel to prevent oil from spilling onto the
top of the engine. Pour three litres of fresh oil
into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow
the oil to drain into the pan, then check the
level on the oil dipstick (see “Weekly checks”).
If the oil level is at or near the H mark, refit the
filler cap hand tight, start the engine and allow
the new oil to circulate.
17Allow the engine to run for about a minute.
While the engine is running, look under the
vehicle and check for leaks at the sump drain
plug and around the oil filter. If either isleaking, stop the engine and tighten the plug
or filter slightly.
18Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to
trickle down into the pan, then recheck the
level on the dipstick and, if necessary, add
enough oil to bring the level to the H mark.
19During the first few trips after an oil
change, make it a point to check frequently
for leaks and proper oil level.
20The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be reused in its present state and should be
disposed of. Check with your local authority,
or with a local garage to see whether they will
accept the oil for recycling. Don’tpour used
oil into drains or onto the ground. After the oil
has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable
container (capped plastic jugs, topped
bottles, etc.) for transport to an approved
disposal site.
4 Spark plug check
2
1Spark plug renewal requires a spark plug
socket which fits onto a ratchet spanner. This
socket is lined with a rubber grommet to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge to check and adjust
the spark plug gap and a torque wrench to
tighten the new plugs to the specified torque
(see illustration).
2If you are replacing the plugs, purchase the
new plugs, adjust them to the proper gap and
then replace each plug one at a time. Note:
When buying new spark plugs, it’s essential
that you obtain the correct plugs for your
specific vehicle. This information can be found
in the Specifications Section at the beginning
of this Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions
Control Information (VECI) label located on the
underside of the bonnet (where fitted)or in the
owner’s manual. If these sources specify
different plugs, purchase the spark plug type
specified on the VECI label because that
information is provided specifically for your
engine.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•7
1
3.7 The oil drain plug (arrowed) is located
at the rear of the sump - use a ring
spanner or socket to remove it3.13 The oil filter is located on the left side
of the engine - use a filter wrench for
removal (tighten the new filter by hand)3.15 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with
clean engine oil before refitting the filter
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

leak be found, renew the offending gasket or
oil seal by referring to the appropriate
Chapters in this manual.
2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable ties or securing clips are in place
and in good condition. Clips which are broken
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring, which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention
to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the
cooling system will usually show up as white-
or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
6Also check the condition of the power
steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Automatic transmission
fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is at its
normal operating temperature.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. Allow the fluid
to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3If the vehicle has not been driven, park the
vehicle on level ground, set the handbrake,
then start the engine and bring it to operating
temperature. While the engine is idling,
depress the brake pedal and move the
selector lever through all the gear ranges,
beginning and ending in Park.
4With the engine still idling, remove the
dipstick from its tube (see illustration). Check
the level of the fluid on the dipstick (see
illustration)and note its condition.
5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag and reinsert it back into the filler tube until
the cap seats.6Pull the dipstick out again and note the fluid
level. If the transmission is cold, the level
should be in the COLD or COOL range on the
dipstick. If it is hot, the fluid level should be in
the HOT range. If the level is at the low side of
either range, add the specified transmission
fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid
to fill the transmission to the proper level. It
takes about one pint to raise the level from the
low mark to the high mark when the fluid is
hot, so add the fluid a little at a time and keep
checking the level until it is correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish
brown colour, or if it emits a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed (see Section 26). If
you are in doubt about the condition of the
fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare
the two for colour and smell.9 Differential oil level check
1
1The differential has a check/fill plug which
must be removed to check the lubricant level.
If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the
plug, be sure to support it safely on axle
stands - DO NOT crawl under the vehicle
when it’s supported only by the jack!2Remove the lubricant check/fill plug from
the differential (see illustration).Use a
3/8-inch drive ratchet and a short extension to
unscrew the plug.
3Use your little finger as a dipstick to make
sure the lubricant level is even with the
bottom of the plug hole. If not, use a syringe
or squeeze bottle to add the recommended
lubricant until it just starts to run out of the
opening.
4Refit the plug and tighten it securely.
10 Exhaust system check
1
1With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
This should be done on a hoist where
unrestricted access is available.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
hangers are in good condition and tight (see
illustration).
3At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•11
1
9.2 The differential check/fill plug is
located on the rear of the differential
housing - place your finger in the filler plug
hole to make sure the lubricant level is
even with the bottom of the hole
10.2 Check the exhaust system hangers
(arrowed) for damage and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
8.4a The automatic transmission dipstick
(arrowed) is located in a tube which
extends forward from the transmission
8.4b Check the automatic transmission
fluid with the engine idling at operating
temperature and the gear selector in Park,
then add fluid to bring the level to the
upper mark

3261 Jaguar XJ6
2A
Chapter 2 Part A
Engine in-car repair procedures
General
Cylinder numbers (front to rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Displacement:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3239 cc
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3590 cc
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3980 cc
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm (3.583 inches)
Stroke:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.0 mm (3.268 inches)
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.0 mm (3.622 inches)
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 mm (4.016 inches)
Camshafts and lifters
Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.9370 to 26.9494 mm (1.0605 to 1.0610 inches)
Bearing oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.037 to 0.063 mm (0.0014 to 0.0024 inch)
Runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0406 mm (0.0016 inch)
Lobe lift (maximum variation between lobes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0127 mm (0.005 inch)
Valve lifter
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.34 to 33.35 mm (1.3126 to 1.3130 inches)
Oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.36 mm (0.012 to 0.014 inch)
Oil pump
Outer rotor to body clearance, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Outer rotor OD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.774 to 69.825 mm (2.7470 to 2.7490 inches)
Rotor thickness, inner and outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.962 to 27.975 mm (1.1008 to 1.1013 inches)
Clearance over rotors, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) Auxiliary shaft - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine mounts - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2BExhaust manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Timing chains and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321