1997 JAGUAR XJ6 oil change

6If the voltage is 6 volts, the element is okay
(there is no break). If the voltage is 12 volts,
the element is broken between the centre
of the element and the positive end. If the
voltage is 0 volts the element is broken
between the centre of the element and earth.
7To find the break, place the voltmeter
positive lead against the defogger positive
terminal. Place the voltmeter negative lead
with the foil strip against the heating element
at the positive terminal end and slide it toward
the negative terminal end. The point at which
the voltmeter deflects from zero to several
volts is the point at which the heating element
is broken (see illustration).
Repair
8Repair the break in the element using a
repair kit specifically recommended for this
purpose.
9Prior to repairing a break, turn off the system
and allow it to cool off for a few minutes.
10Lightly buff the element area with fine
steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with
rubbing alcohol.
11Use masking tape to mask off the area
being repaired.
12Thoroughly mix the epoxy, following the
instructions provided with the repair kit.
13Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the
masking tape, overlapping the undamaged
area about 3/4-inch on either end (see
illustration).
14Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before
removing the tape and using the system.
17 Headlights- renewal
1
Warning: Later models are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are underpressure and may shatter if the surface is
damaged or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye
protection and handle the bulbs carefully,
grasping only the base whenever possible.
Do not touch the surface of the bulb with
your fingers because the oil from your skin
could cause it to overheat and fail
prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
Sealed beam units
1Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11).
2Detach the headlight bezel trim cover (see
illustration).
3Remove the headlight bezel (see
illustrations).
4Remove the screws which secure the
retaining ring and withdraw the ring. Support
the light as this is done (see illustration).
Body electrical system 12•9
12
16.13 Apply masking tape to the inside of
the window at the damaged area, then
brush on the special conductive coating17.2 Remove the screws (arrowed) and
detach the headlight bezel trim cover
17.3a Remove the two retaining screws
at the top and the one in the grille opening
(arrowed)17.3b The retaining screw at the
outside lower corner can be accessed
from under the bumper
3261 Jaguar XJ6 16.5 To determine if a heating element has broken, check the
voltage at the centre of each element. If the voltage is 6-volts, the
element is unbroken; if the voltage is 12-volts, the element is
broken between the centre and the positive end. If there is no
voltage, the element is broken between the centre and earth
16.7 To find the break, place the voltmeter positive lead against
the heated window positive terminal, place the voltmeter negative
lead with the foil strip against the heating element at the positive
terminal end and slide it toward the negative terminal end -
the point at which the voltmeter reading changes abruptly is the
point at which the element is broken

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Use of EnglishREF•3
As the main part of this book has been written in the US, it uses the appropriate US component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these
differ from those used in the UK. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. When ordering spare parts,
remember the parts list may use some of these words:
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Aluminum Aluminium
Antenna Aerial
Authorized Authorised
Auto parts stores Motor factors
Axleshaft Halfshaft
Back-up Reverse
Barrel Choke/venturi
Block Chock
Box-end wrench Ring spanner
Bushing Bush
Carburetor Carburettor
Center Centre
Coast Freewheel
Color Colour
Convertible Drop head coupe
Cotter pin Split pin
Counterclockwise Anti-clockwise
Countershaft (of gearbox) Layshaft
Dashboard Facia
Denatured alcohol Methylated spirit
Dome lamp Interior light
Driveaxle Driveshaft
Driveshaft Propeller shaft
Fender Wing/mudguard
Firewall Bulkhead
Flashlight Torch
Float bowl Float chamber
Floor jack Trolley jack
Freeway, turnpike etc Motorway
Freeze plug Core plug
Frozen Seized
Gas tank Petrol tank
Gasoline (gas) Petrol
Gearshift Gearchange
Generator (DC) Dynamo
Ground (electrical) Earth
Header Exhaust manifold
Heat riser Hot spot
High Top gear
Hood (engine cover) Bonnet
Installation Refitting
Intake Inlet
Jackstands Axle stands
Jumper cable Jump lead
Keeper Collet
Kerosene Paraffin
Knock pin Roll pin
Lash Clearance
Lash Free-play
Latch Catch
Latches Locks
License plate Number plate
Light Lamp
Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)
Lopes Hunts
Lug nut/bolt Wheel nut/bolt
Metal chips or debris Swarf
Misses Misfires
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Muffler Silencer
Odor Odour
Oil pan Sump
Open flame Naked flame
Panel wagon/van Van
Parking brake Handbrake
Parking light Sidelight
Pinging Pinking
Piston pin or wrist pin Gudgeon pin
Piston pin or wrist pin Small end, little end
Pitman arm Drop arm
Power brake booster Servo unit
Primary shoe (of brake) Leading shoe (of brake)
Prussian blue Engineer’s blue
Pry Prise (force apart)
Prybar Lever
Prying Levering
Quarter window Quarterlight
Recap Retread
Release cylinder Slave cylinder
Repair shop Garage
Replacement Renewal
Ring gear (of differential) Crownwheel
Rocker panel (beneath doors) Sill panel (beneath doors)
Rod bearing Big-end bearing
Rotor/disk Disc (brake)
Secondary shoe (of brake) Trailing shoe (of brake)
Sedan Saloon
Setscrew, Allen screw Grub screw
Shock absorber, shock Damper
Snap-ring Circlip
Soft top Hood
Spacer Distance piece
Spare tire Spare wheel
Spark plug wires HT leads
Spindle arm Steering arm
Stabilizer or sway bar Anti-roll bar
Station wagon Estate car
Stumbles Hesitates
Tang or lock Tab washer
Throw-out bearing Thrust bearing
Tie-rod or connecting rod (of steering) Trackrod
Tire Tyre
Transmission Gearbox
Troubleshooting Fault finding/diagnosis
Trunk Boot (luggage compartment)
Turn signal Indicator
TV (throttle valve) cable Kickdown cable
Unpublicized Unpublicised
Valve cover Rocker cover
Valve lifter Tappet
Valve lifter or tappet Cam follower or tappet
Vapor Vapour
Vise Vice
Wheel cover Roadwheel trim
Whole drive line Transmission
Windshield Windscreen
Wrench Spanner

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•4Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, light bulbs, drivebelts, greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Components of
this nature sold by a reputable shop are
usually of the same standard as those used
by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found close to home.
Some accessory shops have parts counters
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk of financial loss, and
also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand parts or assemblies obtained
from a car breaker can be a good buy in some
circumstances, but this sort of purchase is
best made by the experienced DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the part concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and registration,
chassis and engine numbers as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is attached to the base of the driver’s
door pillar left-hand wing valance and is
visible once the bonnet has been opened. The
vehicle identification (chassis) number is also
stamped onto a plate located inside the
windscreen and may also be stamped onto
the right-hand inner wing panel in the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
The trim code and paint codeare also
stamped onto the VIN plate.
The engine numberis stamped onto the
right-hand side of the cylinder block, next to
the distributor (see illustration).
The automatic transmission numberis
stamped onto a metal label attached to the
left-hand side of the transmission housing,
just above the sump (see illustration).The VIN is stamped on the right inner wing
panel of the engine compartment
The engine identification number is
stamped on the right side of the engine
block just behind the distributorThe transmission identification number is
located on the left side of the transmission
housing just above the sump
The VIN is also present on the left side of
the dashboard

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Fault findingREF•15
4 Automatic transmission
Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this
component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should
be taken to a dealer or transmission workshop.
Fluid leakage
m mAutomatic transmission fluid is a deep red colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
by air flow to the transmission.
m mTo pinpoint a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and grime from the
transmission housing with degreasing agents and/or steam
cleaning. Then drive the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not
blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine
where the leak is coming from. Common areas of leakage are:
a) Sump pan (Chapters 1 and 7)
b) Dipstick/filler tube (see below)
c) Transmission fluid cooler lines (Chapter 7)
d) Speedometer sensor (Chapter 7)
m mMake sure the dipstick is a tight fit inside the filler tube. If the seal
at the top of the dipstick is worn or damaged, replace the seal or
the dipstick. If fluid continues to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube, inspect the breather, which is a plastic cap secured by a clip
to the top of the extension housing. This breather can be plugged
by the noise-deadening foam installed in the transmission tunnel,
causing transmission fluid to leak from the top of the dipstick
tube.
Transmission fluid brown or has a burned smell
m mTransmission fluid burned (Chapter 1).
Shift cable problems
m
mChapter 7 deals with adjusting the shift cable. Common problems
which may be attributed to a poorly adjusted shift cable are:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on shift lever pointing to a gear other than the one
actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park.
m mRefer to Chapter 7 for the shift cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift
with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
m mKickdown cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Engine will start in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mNeutral start/reversing light switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7).
m mShift cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy,
or has no drive in forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer service department
or transmission repair workshop, check the level and condition of
the fluid as described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as
necessary or change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists,
have a professional diagnose the probable cause.
5 Brakes
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that:
a) The tyres are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1).
b) The front end alignment is correct (Chapter 10).
c) The vehicle is not loaded with weight in an unequal manner.
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
m mIncorrect tyre pressures (Chapter 1).
m mFront end out of line (have the front end aligned).
m mUnmatched tyres on same axle.
m mRestricted brake lines or hoses (Chapter 9).
m mMalfunctioning caliper assembly (Chapter 9).
m mLoose suspension parts (Chapter 10).
m mLoose calipers (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
Noise (high-pitched squeal
when the brakes are applied)
m mFront and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from
the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new
ones immediately (Chapter 9).
Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates)
m mExcessive lateral disc runout (Chapter 9).
m mParallelism not within specifications (Chapter 9).
m mUneven pad wear caused by caliper not sliding due to improper
clearance or dirt (Chapter 9).
m mDefective disc (Chapter 9).
Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
mMalfunctioning power brake servo (Chapter 9).
m mPartial system failure (Chapter 9).
m mExcessively worn pads (Chapter 9).
m mPiston in caliper stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).
m mNew pads installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the
new material to seat against the disc.
m mAccumulator in power hydraulic system defective (see a Jaguar
dealer).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mPartial brake system failure (Chapter 9).
m mInsufficient fluid in master cylinder (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mAir trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9).
Dragging brakes
m
mMaster cylinder pistons not returning correctly (Chapter 9).
m mRestricted brakes lines or hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).
m mIncorrect handbrake adjustment (Chapter 9).
Grabbing or uneven braking action
m
mMalfunction of power brake servo unit (Chapter 9).
m mBinding brake pedal mechanism (Chapter 9).
m mBrake pads contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9).