1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Replace hub rear bearing

compressor belt first because of the way they
are arranged on the crankshaft pulley.
Because of this and because belts tend to
wear out more or less together, it is a good
idea to replace both belts at the same time.
Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley
groove so the new belts can be installed in
their proper positions.
10Take the old belts to the parts store in
order to make a direct comparison for length,
width and design.
11After replacing a ribbed drivebelt, make
sure that it fits properly in the ribbed grooves
in the pulleys (see illustration). It is essential
that the belt be properly centred.
12Adjust the belt(s) in accordance with the
procedure outlined above.
22 Front wheel bearing check
and adjustment
3
Check and repack
1In most cases the front wheel bearings will
not need servicing until the brake pads are
changed. However, the bearings should be
checked whenever the front of the vehicle is
raised for any reason. Several items, including
a torque wrench and special grease, are
required for this procedure (see illustration).2With the vehicle securely supported on axle
stands, spin each wheel and check for noise,
rolling resistance and freeplay.
3Grasp the top of each tyre with one hand
and the bottom with the other. Move the
wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there’s any
noticeable movement, the bearings should be
checked and then repacked with grease or
renewed if necessary.
4Remove the wheel.
5Remove the brake caliper (see Chapter 9)
and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire.
A wood block of the appropriate width can be
slid between the brake pads to keep them
separated, if necessary. Also remove the
brake disc.
6Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a
screwdriver or a hammer and chisel (see
illustration).
7Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin,
then pull the cotter pin out of the nut lock (see
illustration).Discard the cotter pin and use a
new one during reassembly.
8Remove the locknut, nut and washer from
the end of the spindle.
9Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back
into its original position. This should force theouter bearing off the spindle enough so it can
be removed (see illustration).
10Pull the hub off the spindle. Note:
Sometimes the inner wheel bearing and
grease seal remain attached to the spindle.
Grasp the back of the seal with both hands
and pull forward to remove them.
11If the grease seal is not already detached
from the hub, use a screwdriver to pry the seal
out of the rear of the hub. As this is done, note
how the seal is installed.
12If the inner wheel bearing is not already
detached from the hub, remove it at this time.
13Use solvent to remove all traces of the old
grease from the bearings, hub and spindle. A
small brush may prove helpful; however make
sure no bristles from the brush embed
themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow
the parts to air dry.
14Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks,
heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc. Check
the bearing races inside the hub for wear and
damage. If the bearing races are defective,
the hubs should be taken to a machine
workshop with the facilities to remove the old
races and press new ones in. Note that the
bearings and races come as matched sets
Every 15 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
22.1 Tools and materials needed for front
wheel bearing maintenance
1 Hammer
2 Grease - High-temperature grease that is
formulated specially for front wheel
bearings should be used
3 Wood block - If you have a scrap piece
of 2x4, it can be used to drive the new
seal into the hub
4 Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten
and remove the cotter pin in the spindle
5 Torque wrench - This is very important in
this procedure; if the bearing is too tight,
the wheel won’t turn freely - if it’s too
loose, the wheel will “wobble” on the
spindle. Either way, it could mean
extensive damage
6 Screwdriver - Used to remove the seal
from the hub (a long screwdriver is
preferred)
7 Socket/breaker bar - Needed to loosen the
nut on the spindle if it’s extremely tight
8 Brush - Together with some clean
solvent, this will be used to remove old
grease from the hub and spindle
22.6 Dislodge the dust cap by working
around the outer circumference with a
hammer and chisel
22.7 Remove the cotter pin and discard it -
use a new one when the hub is reinstalled22.9 Pull the hub assembly forward
slightly - then push it back into position to
dislodge the outer wheel bearing
3261 Jaguar XJ6 21.11 When refitting ribbed (serpentine)
drivebelts, make sure the belt is centred
between the pulley edges (arrowed) - it
must not overlap either edge of the pulley

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt