1997 JAGUAR XJ6 oil change

Engine block
Deck warpage limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.076 mm (0.003 inch)
Cylinder bore diameter
Standard
Size group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90.990 to 91.003 mm (3.5823 to 3.5828 inches)
Size group B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.005 to 91.018 mm (3.5829 to 3.5834 inches)
Oversize
0.25 mm (0.010 inch) OS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.259 to 91.272 mm (3.5929 to 3.5934 inches)
0.50 mm (0.020 inch) OS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.513 to 91.526 mm (3.6029 to 3.6034 inches)
Pistons and rings
Piston-to-bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.043 mm (0.0007 to 0.0017 inch)
Piston ring end gap
No.1 (top) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.66 mm (0.016 to 0.026 inch)
No.2 (middle) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 to 0.66 mm (0.016 to 0.026 inch)
Oil ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.55 mm (0.012 to 0.022 inch)
Piston ring groove clearance
No. 1 (top) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.076 mm (0.0016 to 0.0030 inch)
No. 2 (middle) compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.040 to 0.076 mm (0.0016 to 0.0030 inch)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 to 142 100 to 105
Connecting rod cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 60 37 to 44
* Note:Refer to Part A for additional torque specifications.
2B•2 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 General information
Included in this portion of Chapter 2 are the
general overhaul procedures for the cylinder
head and internal engine components.
The information ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts to detailed,
step-by-step procedures covering removal
and refitting of internal engine components
and the inspection of parts.
The following Sections have been written
based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and refitting of the
external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Part A of this Chapter.
The Specifications included in this Part are
only those necessary for the inspection and
overhaul procedures which follow. Refer to
Part A for additional Specifications.
2 Engine overhaul-
general information
It’s not always easy to determine when, or if,
an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an indication
that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage
doesn’t preclude the need for an overhaul.
Frequency of servicing is probably the most
important consideration. An engine that’s had
regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as
well as other required maintenance, will most
likely give many thousands of miles of reliableservice. Conversely, a neglected engine may
require an overhaul very early in its life.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure that
oil leaks aren’t responsible before deciding
that the rings and/or guides are bad. Perform a
cylinder compression check to determine the
extent of the work required (see Section 4).
Also check the vacuum readings under various
conditions (see Section 3).
Check the oil pressure with a gauge
installed in place of the oil pressure sender
unit (see illustrations)and compare it to this
Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s extremely low,
the bearings and/or oil pump are probably
worn out.
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if they’re all present at the same
time. If a complete tune-up doesn’t remedy
the situation, major mechanical work is the
only solution.An engine overhaul involves restoring the
internal parts to the specifications of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the piston rings
are replaced and the cylinder walls are
reconditioned (rebored and/or honed). If a
rebore is done by an automotive machine
workshop, new oversize pistons will also be
installed. The main bearings, big-end bearings
and camshaft bearings are generally replaced
with new ones and, if necessary, the
crankshaft may be reground to restore the
journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as
well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect
condition at this point. While the engine is
being overhauled, other components, such as
the distributor, starter and alternator, can be
rebuilt as well. The end result should be a like
new engine that will give many trouble free
miles. Note:Critical cooling system
components such as the hoses, drivebelts,
thermostat and water pump should be
replaced with new parts when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully to ensure that it isn’t clogged or
leaking (see Chapter 3).If you purchase a
2.4a The oil pressure sender unit (arrowed)
is located in the right front corner of the
engine block, near the oil filter2.4b The oil pressure can be checked by
removing the sender unit and refitting a
pressure gauge in its place

reveal valuable information about the condition
of the engine (see illustration).
2Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign
particles, overloading the engine and corrosion.
Regardless of the cause of failure, it must be
corrected before the engine is reassembled to
prevent it from happening again.
3When examining the bearings, remove
them from the engine block, the main bearing
caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps
and lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal.
4Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the PCV system. It may get
into the oil, and from there into the bearings.
Metal chips from machining operations and
normal engine wear are often present.
Abrasives are sometimes left in engine
components after reconditioning, especially
when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using
the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the
source, these foreign objects often end up
embedded in the soft bearing material and are
easily recognised. Large particles will not
embed in the bearing and will score or gouge
the bearing and journal. The best prevention
for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all
parts thoroughly and keep everything
spotlessly clean during engine assembly.
Frequent and regular engine oil and filter
changes are also recommended.5Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off
(from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil
pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Low speed operation in too high a
gear (labouring the engine) puts extremely
high loads on bearings, which tends to
squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause
the bearings to flex, which produces fine
cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure).
Eventually the bearing material will loosen in
pieces and tear away from the steel backing.
Short trip driving leads to corrosion of
bearings because insufficient engine heat is
produced to drive off the condensed water
and corrosive gases. These products collect
in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As
the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the
acid attacks and corrodes the bearing
material.
7Incorrect bearing refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
oil clearance, and this will lead to oilstarvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing insert result in high spots on
the bearing which lead to failure.
Selection
8If the original bearings are worn or
damaged, or if the oil clearances are incorrect
(see Sections 23 or 25), the following
procedures should be used to select the
correct new bearings for engine reassembly.
However, if the crankshaft has been reground,
new undersize bearings must be installed -
the following procedure should not be used if
undersize bearings are required! The
automotive machine workshop that
reconditions the crankshaft will provide or
help you select the correct-size bearings.
Regardless of how the bearing sizes are
determined, use the oil clearance, measured
with Plastigage, as a guide to ensure the
bearings are the right size.
9If you need to use a STANDARD size main
or big-end bearing, refit one that has the same
number as the original bearing. Note:4.0 litre
engines after #164637 have sized crankshafts
and bearings in three grades, indicated by
colour and letter. The codes are stamped into
the front throw of the crankshaft(see
illustration). Match replacement bearings by
the colour codes: pink (P), white (W) or
green (G) for main bearings; red (R), yellow (Y)
or blue (B) for the three grades of big-end
bearings.
10Remember, the oil clearance is the final
judge when selecting new bearing sizes. If you
have any questions or are unsure which
bearings to use, get help from a dealer parts
or service department.
2B•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 20.1 When inspecting the main and big-end bearings, look for
these problems
20.9 Later model 4.0 litre engines have graded journals and
bearings, with the markings indicated on the front throw of the
crankshaft - “A” indicates the front of the engine, “B” indicates
the codes for the main journals/bearings, and “C” indicates the
connecting rod journal grades

working up to it in three steps. Note:Use the
old bolts for this step (save the new bolts for
final refitting).Use a thin-wall socket to avoid
erroneous torque readings that can result if
the socket is wedged between the rod cap
and nut. If the socket tends to wedge itself
between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap. Do
not rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation.
16Remove the nuts and detach the rod cap,
being careful not to disturb the Plastigauge.
17Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
envelope to obtain the oil clearance (see
illustration). Compare it to this Chapter’s
Specifications to make sure the clearance is
correct.
18If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which
means different ones will be required). Before
deciding that different inserts are needed,
make sure that no dirt or oil was between the
bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the journal diameter. If the Plastigauge
was wider at one end than the other, the journal
may be tapered (refer to Section 19).
Final connecting rod refitting
19Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the rod journal and/or
bearing face. Be very careful not to scratchthe bearing, use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card to remove the Plastigauge.
20Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly
clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean
moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to
both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
higher into the cylinder to expose the face of
the bearing insert in the connecting rod, be
sure to slip the protective hoses over the
connecting rod bolts first.
21At this time, remove the original
connecting rod bolts/nuts and replace them
with new bolts/nuts. They are of a design
which requires they be used only once. The
old ones are OK for Plastigauge checking, but
for final assembly use only new connecting
rod bolts/nuts. Refit the rod cap and tighten
the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Again, work up to the torque in
three steps.
22Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining pistons/connecting rod assemblies.
23The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the back sides of the bearing inserts
and the insides of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean during assembly..
b) Make sure you have the correct piston/
connecting rod assembly for each
cylinder.
c) The dimple on the piston must face the
front of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing faces when refitting
the rod caps after the oil clearance has
been checked.
24After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand to check for any obvious binding.
25As a final step, the connecting rod
endplay must be checked. Refer to Section 13
for this procedure.
26Compare the measured endplay to this
Chapter’s Specifications to make sure it’s
correct. If it was correct before dismantling
and the original crankshaft and connecting
rods were reinstalled, it should still be right.
However, if new connecting rods or a new
crankshaft were installed, the endplay may beinadequate. If so, the connecting rods will
have to be removed and taken to an
automotive machine workshop for resizing.
26 Initial start-up
and running-in after overhaul
1
Warning: Have a suitable fire
extinguisher handy when starting
the engine for the first time.
1Once the engine has been installed in the
vehicle, double-check the engine oil and
coolant levels.
2With the spark plugs out of the engine and
the ignition system and fuel pump disabled,
crank the engine until oil pressure registers on
the gauge or the light goes out.
3Refit the spark plugs, hook up the plug
leads and restore the ignition system and fuel
pump functions.
4Start the engine. It may take a few
moments for the fuel system to build up
pressure, but the engine should start without
a great deal of effort.
5After the engine starts, it should be allowed
to warm up to normal operating temperature.
While the engine is warming up, make a
thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.
6Shut the engine off and recheck the engine
oil and coolant levels.
7Drive the vehicle to an area with no traffic,
accelerate from 30 to 50 mph, then allow the
vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle
closed. Repeat the procedure 10 or 12 times.
This will load the piston rings and cause them
to seat properly against the cylinder walls.
Check again for oil and coolant leaks.
8Drive the vehicle gently for the first
500 miles (no sustained high speeds) and
keep a constant check on the oil level. It is not
unusual for an engine to use oil during the
running-in period.
9At approximately 500 to 600 miles, change
the oil and filter.
10For the next few hundred miles, drive the
vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or abuse it.
11After 2000 miles, change the oil and filter
again and consider the engine run-in.
2B•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
25.17 Measure the width of the crushed
Plastigauge to determine the big-end
bearing oil clearance
3261 Jaguar XJ6

of these sensors and their corresponding
ECU-controlled relays are not contained
within EFI components, but are located
throughout the engine compartment. For
further information regarding the ECU and its
relationship to the engine electrical and
ignition system, see Chapter 6.
12 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- check
2
1Check the earth wire connections for
tightness. Check all wiring and electrical
connectors that are related to the system.
Loose electrical connectors and poor grounds
can cause many problems that resemble
more serious malfunctions.
2Check to see that the battery is fully
charged, as the control unit and sensors
depend on an accurate supply voltage in
order to properly meter the fuel.
3Check the air filter element - a dirty or
partially blocked filter will severely impede
performance and economy (see Chapter 1).
4If a blown fuse is found, renew it and see if
it blows again. If it does, search for a shorted
wire in the harness related to the system.
5Check the air intake duct from the MAF
sensor to the intake manifold for leaks, which
will result in an excessively lean mixture. Also
check the condition of the vacuum hoses
connected to the intake manifold.
6Remove the air intake duct from the throttle
body and check for carbon and residue build-
up. If it’s dirty, clean with aerosol carburettor
cleaner (make sure the can says it’s safe for
use with oxygen sensors and catalytic
converters) and a toothbrush.
7With the engine running, place a
stethoscope against each injector, one at a
time, and listen for a clicking sound, indicating
operation (see illustration).8If there is a problem with an injector,
purchase a special injector test light (noid
light) and refit it into the injector electrical
connector (see illustration). Start the engine
and make sure that each injector connector
flashes the noid light. This will test for the
proper voltage signal to the injector.Caution:
If the engine will not start and the noid
light indicates that each injector is
receiving the proper signal, there is a good
possibility that the injector(s) is stuck open
and allowing fuel into the combustion
chamber in excessive amounts. If the spark
plugs are fouled, detach the primary (low
voltage) wires from the ignition coil, disable
the fuel pump by removing the fuel pump
relay (see Section 2), remove the spark plugs
and crank the engine over. If fuel sprays from
the spark plug holes, the engine is flooded
and the fuel must be removed from the
combustion chambers.
9With the engine OFF and the fuel injector
electrical connectors disconnected, measure
the resistance of each injector (see
illustration). Each injector should measure
about 2.0 to 3.0 ohms. If not, the injector is
probably faulty.10The remainder of the system checks
should be left to a Jaguar service department
or other qualified repair workshop, as there is
a chance that the control unit may be
damaged if not performed properly.
13 Electronic Fuel Injection
(EFI) system- component
check and renewal
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Throttle body
Check
1Verify that the throttle linkage operates
smoothly.
2Start the engine, detach each vacuum hose
and, using your finger, check the vacuum at
each port on the throttle body with the engine
at idle and above idle. The vacuum available
from the throttle body is ported. Raise the
engine rpm and watch as vacuum increases.
It may be necessary to use a vacuum gauge.
Refer to Chapter 2B for additional information
concerning vacuum checks.
Renewal
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
3Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery (see the Cautionat the
beginning of this Section).
4Drain the radiator (see Chapter 1).
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
12.9 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance across both terminals
of the injector
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.7 Use a stethoscope or a screwdriver to determine if the
injectors are working properly - they should make a steady
clicking sound that rises and falls with engine speed changes
12.8 Refit the “noid” light into the fuel injector electrical
connector and check to see that it blinks with the engine running

manifold as a single unit and have it repaired
by a dealer service department. Refer to
Chapter 2 for removal and refitting procedures.
14 Exhaust system servicing-
general information
Warning: Inspection and repair
of exhaust system components
should be done only after the
components have cooled.
1The exhaust system consists of the exhaust
manifold, catalytic converter, the silencer, the
tailpipe and all connecting pipes, brackets,
hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is
attached to the body with mounting brackets
and rubber hangers (see illustrations). If any
of these parts are damaged or deteriorated,
excessive noise and vibration will be
transmitted to the body. Note:The exhaust
system configuration changes with later model
updates. Earlier models (1988 and 1989) are
equipped with a pre-catalytic converter near
the exhaust manifold incorporating a single
exhaust pipe to the silencer. Later models are
equipped with dual exhaust pipes, dual
catalytic converters and silencers.
2Conducting regular inspections of the
exhaust system will keep it safe and quiet.
Look for any damaged or bent parts, open
seams, holes, loose connections, excessive
corrosion or other defects which could allow
exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle.
Deteriorated exhaust system components
should not be repaired - they should be
replaced with new parts.
3If the exhaust system components are
extremely corroded or rusted together, they
will probably have to be cut from the exhaust
system. The convenient way to accomplish
this is to have a silencer repair workshop
remove the corroded sections with a cutting
torch. If, however, you want to save money by
doing it yourself and you don’t have an
oxy/acetylene welding outfit with a cutting
torch, simply cut off the old components with
a hacksaw. If you have compressed air,
special pneumatic cutting chisels can also beused. If you do decide to tackle the job at
home, be sure to wear eye protection to
protect your eyes from metal chips and work
gloves to protect your hands.
4Here are some simple guidelines to apply
when repairing the exhaust system:
a) Work from the back to the front when
removing exhaust system components.
b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust
system component fasteners to make
them easier to remove(see illustration).
c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps
when refitting exhaust system components.
d) Apply anti-seize compound to the threads
of all exhaust system fasteners during
reassembly.e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance
between newly installed parts and all
points on the underbody to avoid
overheating the floor pan and possibly
damaging the interior carpet and
insulation. Pay particularly close attention
to the catalytic converter and its heat
shield.
Warning: The catalytic converter
operates at very high tem-
peratures and takes a long time
to cool. Wait until it’s completely
cool before attempting to remove the
converter. It’s a good idea to wear suitable
gloves. Failure to observe these points
could result in serious burns.
4•14 Fuel and exhaust systems
14.1c On dual silencer models, check the
condition of the mount (arrowed)
and the clamps
14.1a The rear tailpipe section is fastened
to the chassis with a special rubber mount
(arrowed) that pivots with road movement.
Check for deterioration and alignment14.1b Check the condition of the flexible
rubber mounts that hang the silencer to
the chassis
14.4 Use penetrating spray on the exhaust
flange nuts before attempting to
remove them
3261 Jaguar XJ6

same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. as the original.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
4 Battery cables-
check and renewal
1
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
1Periodically inspect the entire length of
each battery cable for damage, cracked or
burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery
cable connections can cause starting
problems and decreased engine performance.
2Check the cable-to-terminal connections at
the ends of the cables for cracks, loose wire
strands and corrosion. The presence of white,
fluffy deposits under the insulation at the
cable terminal connection is a sign that the
cable is corroded and should be renewed.
Check the terminals for distortion, missing
mounting bolts and corrosion.
3When removing the cables, always
disconnect the negative cable first and hook it
up last or the battery may be shorted by the
tool used to loosen the cable clamps. Even if
only the positive cable is being renewed, be
sure to disconnect the negative cable from
the battery first (see Chapter 1 for further
information regarding battery cable removal).
4Disconnect the cables from the battery,
then trace each of them to their opposite ends
and detach them from the starter solenoid
and earth terminals. Note the routing of each
cable to ensure correct refitting.
5If you are replacing either or both of the old
cables, take them with you when buying new
items. It is vitally important that you replace
the cables with identical parts. Cables have
characteristics that make them easy to
identify: positive cables are usually red, larger
in cross-section and have a larger diameter
battery post clamp; earth cables are usually
black, smaller in cross-section and have a
slightly smaller diameter clamp for the
negative post.
6Clean the threads of the solenoid or earth
connection with a wire brush to remove rust
and corrosion. Apply a light coat of battery
terminal corrosion inhibitor, or petroleum jelly,
to the threads to prevent future corrosion.
7Attach the cable to the solenoid or earth
connection and tighten the mounting nut/bolt
securely.
8Before connecting a new cable to the
battery, make sure that it reaches the battery
post without having to be stretched.
9Connect the positive cable first, followed by
the negative cable.
5 Ignition system- general
information and precautions
1All models are equipped with a computerised
ignition system. The ignition system consists of
the ignition coil, the crankshaft position sensor,
the amplifier and the electronic control unit
(ECU). The ignition ECU controls the ignition
timing and advance characteristics for the
engine. The ignition timing is not adjustable,
therefore, changing the position of the distributor
will not change the timing in any way. Note:In
the event the distributor must be removed from
the engine, be sure to follow the precautions
described in Section 9 and mark the engine and
distributor with paint to ensure correct refitting. If
the distributor is not marked and Ihe crankshaft is
turned while the distributor is out of the engine,
have the distributor installed by a dealer service
department. The distributor must be installed
using a special alignment tool.
2The distributor is driven by the intermediate
shaft which also drives the power steering pump.
The crankshaft position sensor is located on the
front timing cover. It detects crank position by
pulsing an electronic signal to the ECU. This
signal is sent to the ECU to provide ignition
timing specifications.
3The computerised ignition system provides
complete control of the ignition timing by
determining the optimum timing in response to
engine speed, coolant temperature, throttle
position and vacuum pressure in the intake
manifold. These parameters are relayed to the
ECU by the crankshaft position sensor, throttle
potentiometer, coolant temperature sensor and
MAF sensor. Ignition timing is altered during
warm-up, idling and warm running conditions by
the ECU. This electronic ignition system also
consists of the ignition switch, battery, coil,
distributor, spark plug leads and spark plugs.
4Refer to a dealer parts department or car
accessory outlet for any questions concerning
the availability of the distributor parts and
assemblies. Testing the crankshaft position
sensor is covered in Chapter 6.
5When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for
more than 10 seconds if the engine will
not start.
b) Always connect a tachometer in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions. Some tachometers may be
incompatible with this ignition system.
Consult a dealer service department
before buying a tachometer for use with
this vehicle.
c) Never allow the ignition coil terminals to
touch earth. Earthing the coil could result
in damage to the igniter and/or the
ignition coil.
d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
6 Ignition system- check
2
Warning: Because of the high
voltage generated by the
ignition system, extreme care
should be taken when working
on the ignition components. This not only
includes the amplifier, coil, distributor and
spark plug leads, but related components
such as connectors, tachometer and other
test equipment also.
1With the ignition switch turned to the “ON”
position, a “Battery” light or an “Oil Pressure”
light is a basic check for ignition and battery
supply to the ECU.
2Check all ignition wiring connections for
tightness, cuts, corrosion or any other signs of a
bad connection.
3Use a calibrated ignition tester to verify
adequate secondary voltage (25,000 volts) at
each spark plug (see illustration). A faulty or
poor connection at that plug could also result in a
misfire. Also, check for carbon deposits inside
the spark plug boot.
4Check for carbon tracking on the coil. If
carbon tracking is evident, renew the coil and be
sure the secondary wires related to that coil are
clean and tight. Excessive wire resistance or
faulty connections could damage the coil.
5Check for battery voltage to the ignition coil
(see illustration). If battery voltage is available,
check the ignition coil primary and secondary
resistance (see Section 8).
6Check the distributor cap for any obvious
signs of carbon tracking, corroded terminals or
cracks (see Chapter 1).
7Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of
the spark plug leads. Each wire should measure
less than 25,000 ohms.
8Check for battery voltage to the ignition
amplifier (see Section 7). If battery voltage does
not exist, check the circuit from the ignition
switch (refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of
Chapter 12).
5•2 Engine electrical systems
6.3 To use a calibrated ignition tester
(available at most car accessory outlets),
remove a plug lead from a cylinder,
connect the spark plug boot to the tester
and clip the tester to a good earth - if there
is enough voltage to fire the plug, sparks
will be clearly visible between the
electrode tip and the tester body
3261 Jaguar XJ6

2The CHECK ENGINE warning light, which is
located on the instrument panel, comes on
when the ignition switch is turned to ON and
the engine is not running. When the engine is
started, the warning light should go out. If the
light remains on, the self-diagnosis system
has detected a malfunction. Note: The
CHECK ENGINE light on early models is
displayed on the dashboard VCM panel on the
right side. Later models are equipped with a
separate CHECK ENGINE light on the left side
of the instrument cluster.Note:Not all the
codes will cause the CHECK ENGINE light to
activate. When performing any fuel or
emissions systems diagnosis, always check
for codes that may be stored but not indicated
by the CHECK ENGINE light.
Obtaining fault code output
3To obtain an output of diagnostic codes,
verify first that the battery voltage is above 11
volts, the throttle is fully closed, the
transmission is in Park, the accessory
switches are off and the engine is at normal
operating temperature.
4Turn the ignition switch to ON but don’t
start the engine (Position II). Note:On 1988
and 1989 models, remember to turn the
ignition switch to position II without turning
the key to OFF.
5Press the VCM button on the display panel
(see illustration)and observe the LED display
on the dash for the designated codes. An
asterisk next to the code indicates that there
are multiple codes stored.
6The numerical values will be displayed on
the trip computer display on the dashboard.
7If there are any malfunctions in the system,
the corresponding fault codes are displayed in
numerical order, lowest to highest.
Cancelling a diagnostic code
8After the faulty component has been
repaired/renewed, the fault code(s) stored in
computer memory must be cancelled.
a) On 1988 to 1991 vehicles, simply drive
the vehicle faster than 19 mph and the
computer will automatically erase the
stored fault code from memory.b) On 1992 to 1994 models, disconnect the
negative battery lead for 30 seconds or
more to erase the stored fault codes.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
9A stored code can also be cancelled on
early models by removing the cable from the
battery negative terminal, but other items with
memory (such as the clock and radio presets)
will also be cancelled.
10If the diagnosis code is not cancelled, it
will be stored by the ECU and appear with any
new codes in the event of future trouble.
11Should it become necessary to work on
engine components requiring removal of the
battery terminal, always check to see if a
diagnostic code has been recorded before
disconnecting the battery.
4 Information sensors
Note: Refer to Chapters 4 and 5 for additional
information on the location and the diagnostic
procedures for the output actuators (ISC
motor, air supplementary valve, distributor,
amplifier, etc.) that are not directly covered in
this section.
Coolant temperature sensor
General description
1The coolant temperature sensor is a
thermistor (a resistor which varies the value of
its voltage output in accordance with
temperature changes) which is threaded into
the thermostat housing. As the sensor
temperature DECREASES, the resistance
values will INCREASE. As the sensor
Emissions and engine control systems 6•3
6
3.5 To access the self-diagnosis system
fault codes, locate the VCM button on the
dash and with the ignition key ON (engine
not running) press it to display the codes
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Fault code chart for 1988 and 1989 models
Code System affected Probable cause
1 Oxygen sensor Open oxygen sensor circuit
2 Airflow sensor Not in operating range
3 Coolant temperature sensor Not in operating range
4 Oxygen sensor System indicates full rich
5 Throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor Low throttle potentiometer signal
with high airflow sensor signal
6 Throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor High throttle potentiometer signal
with low airflow sensor signal
7 Throttle potentiometer Idle fuel adjustment failure
8 Intake air temperature sensor Open or shorted circuit in IAT sensor
harness
Fault code chart for 1990 to 1994 models
Code System affected Probable cause
11 Idle potentiometer Not in operating range
12 Airflow sensor Not in operating range
14 Coolant temperature sensor Not in operating range
16 Air temperature sensor Not in operating range
17 Throttle potentiometer Not in operating range
18 Throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor Signal resistance low
at wide open throttle
19 Throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor Signal resistance high at idle
22 Heated oxygen sensor Open or short circuit
22 Fuel pump circuit Open or short circuit
23 Fuel supply Rich exhaust Indicated
24 Ignition amplifier circuit Open or short circuit
26 Oxygen sensor circuit Lean exhaust/vacuum leak
29 ECU Self check
33 Fuel injector circuit Open or short circuit
34 Fuel injector circuit Faulty injector indicated
37 EGR solenoid circuit Short or open circuit
39 EGR circuit Faulty system operation
44 Oxygen sensor circuit Rich or lean condition
46 Idle speed control valve - (coil 1) Open or short circuit
47 Idle speed control valve - (coil 2) Open or short circuit
48 Idle speed control valve Not within specification
68 Road speed sensor Incorrect signal voltage
69 Neutral safety switch circuit Engine cranks in Drive
(adjust or renew switch)
89 Purge control valve circuit Open or short circuit

obstructions to ensure complete recirculation
of gasses from the crankcase back into the
intake manifold. In the event of clogging, the
pressure will increase causing blow-by and oil
leaks through seals and gaskets.
6Check the operation of the heating element.
Check for battery voltage to the element while
the engine is cold. If no voltage is available
to the heating element, check the circuit from
the windscreen washer jet temperature
sensor.
Renewal
7Disconnect the electrical connector from
the heating element (see illustration).
8Remove the clamps from the hoses and
separate the heating element from the engine.
9Remove the hoses from the intake
manifold. These crankcase ventilation hoses
are specially formed and must be replaced
with special factory parts from Jaguar.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
9 Catalytic converter
General description
1To reduce hydrocarbon, carbon monoxide
and oxides of nitrogen emissions, all vehicles
are equipped with a three-way catalyst
system which oxidises and reduces these
chemicals, converting them into harmless
nitrogen, carbon dioxide and water.
2The catalytic converter fits into the exhaust
system much like a silencer. Note:The
exhaust system configuration changes withlater model updates. Older models (1988 and
1989) are equipped with a pre-catalytic
converter near the exhaust manifold
incorporating a single exhaust pipe to the
silencer. Later models are equipped with dual
exhaust pipes, dual catalytic converters and
dual silencers.
Check
3Periodically inspect the catalytic converter-
to-exhaust pipe mating flanges and bolts.
Make sure that there are no loose bolts and
no leaks between the flanges.
4Look for dents in or damage to the catalytic
converter protector. If any part of the
protector is damaged or dented enough to
touch the converter, repair or renew it.
5Inspect the heat insulator for damage.
Make sure there is enough clearance between
the heat insulator and the catalytic converter.
Renewal
6To renew the catalytic converter, refer to
Chapter 4. It is recommended that catalytic
converters be renewed at a qualified silencer
workshop because of the numerous tack
welds on the exhaust pipes.
6•12 Emissions and engine control systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6
8.7 Disconnect the electrical connector
from the electronic heating element