1996 CHRYSLER VOYAGER engine

Fig. 3 Lubrication Lines
9 - 42 ENGINENS/GS
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ENGINE DIAGNOSISÐPERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT
CRANK OR CRANKS
SLOWLY1. Starting motor operating, but not cranking the
engine.1. Remove the starter motor. Check for broken
flywheel teeth or a broken starter motor spring.
2. Crankshaft rotation restricted. 2. Rotate the engine to check for rotational
resistance.
3. Starting circuit connections loose or corroded. 3. Clean and tighten connections.
4. Neutral safety or starter relay inoperative. 4. Check starter relay supply voltage and proper
operation of neutral safety switch (if equipped).
Replace defective parts.
5. Battery charge low. 5. Check Battery voltage. Replace battery if a
charge cannot be held.
6. No voltage to starter solenoid. 6. Check voltage to solenoid. If necessary, replace
the solenoid.
7. Solenoid or starter motor inoperative. 7. Replace starter motor.
ENGINE CRANKS, BUT
WILL NOT START, NO
SMOKE1. No fuel in supply tank. 1. Fill fuel supply.
2. Electrical fuel shutdown solenoid not operating. 2. Check for loose wires and verify that the fuel
shutdown solenoid is functioning. Check for fault
codes in the ECU.
3. Fuel injection system defective: Cranking speed
sensor. Loose connection between ECU and
harness. No power supply to the ECU. Loose
connection between injection pump and harness.3. Check for fault codes at ECU. Refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for repairs procedures.
4. Air intake or exhaust plugged. 4. Remove the obstruction.
5. Fuel filter plugged. 5. Drain fuel/water separator and replace fuel filter.
6. Excessive fuel inlet restriction. 6. Check for restriction. Correct cause.
7. Injection pump not getting fuel or fuel is aerated. 7. Check fuel flow/bleed fuel system.
8. One or more injectors worn or not operating
properly.8. Check/replace bad or improperly operating
injectors.
9. Camshaft out of time. 9. Check/correct timing chain sprocket alignment.
ENGINE HARD TO
START, OR WILL NOT
START, SMOKE FROM
EXHAUST1. Incorrect starting procedure. 1. The fuel shutoff solenoid control must be in the
run position. Ensure the proper procedure is being
used.
2. Cranking speed to slow. 2. Check the battery, starter motor and look for
loose or corroded wiring connections.
3. Cylinder head heater plugs defective. 3. Verify system is working. Verify connection
between heater plug relay and ECU. Repair/replace
inoperative parts.
4. Insufficient intake air 4. Inspect or replace air filter and check for
obstruction in air supply.
5. Air in fuel system or the fuel supply is
inadequate.5. Check the fuel flow through the filter and bleed
system. Locate and eliminate the air source.
6. Contaminated fuel. 6. Verify by operating the engine with clean fuel
from a temporary tank. Check for the presence of
gasoline. Drain and flush fuel supply tank. Replace
fuel/water separator filter.
7. Fuel screen plugged. 7. Check fuel screen.
8. One or more injectors worn or not operating
properly.8. Check/replace improperly operating injectors.
9. Injector pump out of time. 9. Check pump timing. Refer to Group 14, Fuel
System for procedure.
10. Engine compression low. 10. Check compression to identify the problem.
11. Fuel injection system defective. 11. Vacuum modulator defective causing EGR to
open in cold condition. Check for fault codes in the
ECU.
NS/GSENGINE 9 - 43

ENGINE DIAGNOSISÐMECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE
LOW1. Low oil level. 1a. Check and fill with clean engine
oil.
1b. Check for severe external oil
leaks that could reduce the
pressure.
2. Oil viscosity thin, diluted, or
wrong specification.2. Verify the correct oil is being
used. Check for oil dilution.
3. Improperly operating pressure
switch/gauge3. Verify the pressure switch is
functioning correctly. If not, replace
switch/gauge.
4. Relief valve stuck open. 4. Check/replace valve.
5. Plugged oil filter. 5. Change oil filter. Oil filter change
interval may need to be revised.
6. Oil cooler was replaced, shipping
plugs left in cooler.6. Check/removed shipping plugs.
7. Worn oil pump. 7. Check/replace oil pump.
8. Suction tube loose or seal
leaking.8. Check and replace seal.
9. Worn bearing or wrong bearing
installed.9. Inspect and replace connecting
rod or main bearings. check and
replace piston cooling oil jet.
10. Oil jets under piston loose or
bad fit.10. Check oil jets position.
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS 1. External oil leaks. 1. Visually inspect for oil leaks.
Repair as required.
2. Crankcase being overfilled. 2. Verify that the correct dipstick is
being used.
3. Incorrect oil specification or
viscosity.3a. Make sure the correct oil is
being used.
3b. Look for reduced viscosity from
dilution with fuel.
3c. Review/reduce the oil change
intervals.
4. Oil cooler leak. 4. Check and replace the oil cooler.
5. High blow-by forcing oil out the
breather.5. Check the breather tube area for
signs of oil loss.
9 - 44 ENGINENS/GS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

ENGINE DIAGNOSISÐMECHANICAL CONT.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
LUBRICATING OIL LOSS
(CONT.)6. Turbocharger leaking oil into the
air intake.6. Inspect air duct for evidence of oil
transfer.
7. Piston rings not sealing (oil being
consumed by the engine).7. Perform blow-by check. Repair as
required.
COMPRESSION KNOCKS 1. Air in fuel system. 1. Bleed the fuel system (refer to
Group 14, Fuel System).
2. Poor quality fuel or water/gasoline
contaminated fuel.2. Verify by operating from a
temporary tank with good fuel. Clean
and flush the fuel supply tank.
Replace fuel/water separator.
3. Engine Overloaded. 3. Verify the engine load rating is not
being exceeded.
4. Improperly operating injectors. 4. Check and replace injectors.
5. Fuel injection system defective. 5a. Instrumented injection. 5b. Timing
solenoid of the fuel pump. 5c. Pre
and post heat time of the glow plugs.
Check the fault codes in the ECU.
EXCESSIVE ENGINE NOISES 1. Drive belt squeal, insufficient
tension or abnormally high loading.1. Inspect the drive belts. Make sure
water pump pulley, generator and
power steering all turn freely.
2. Intake air and exhaust leak. 2. Refer to excessive exhaust smoke.
(Engine Diagnosis and Testing)
3. Excessive valve lash. 3. Make sure the rocker arms are not
bent. Defective hydraulic lash
adjuster.
4. Turbocharger noise. 4. Check turbocharger impeller and
turbine wheel for housing contact.
5. Power function knock. 5. Check and replace rod and main
bearings.
6. Fuel injection system defective. 6a. Instrumented injection. 6b. Timing
solenoid of the fuel pump. 6c. Pre
and post heat time of the glow plugs.
Check the fault codes in the ECU.
NS/GSENGINE 9 - 45
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

ENGINE DIAGNOSISÐMECHANICAL CONT.
9 - 46 ENGINENS/GS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending unit. The pressure should be
between 3.5 bars to 5.0 bars at 4000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these 2 condi-
tions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length which
allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side
of oil pump through which air can be drawn will cre-
ate the same tappet action. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the pump cover,
including the relief valve retainer cap. When tappet
noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or
constant, and usually more than 1 tappet will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a suf-
ficient time to allow all of the air inside the tappets
to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak down around the unit plunger or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click iscaused by a tappet check valve not seating or by for-
eign particles becoming wedged between the plunger
and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to
stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case, tappet assembly should be removed for inspec-
tion and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. In general, if more than one tappet
seems to be noisy, its probably not the tappets.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
CHECKING OIL LEVEL
To assure proper engine lubrication, the engine oil
must be maintained at the correct level. Check the
oil level at regular intervals, such as every fuel stop.
The best time to check the oil level is about 5 min-
utes after a fully warmed-up engine is shut off, or
before starting the vehicle after it has sat overnight.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level
ground, will improve the accuracy of the oil level
readings (Fig. 4).
CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER
Change engine oil and filter at mileage and time
intervals described in the Maintenance Schedule.
Fig. 4 Checking Engine Oil
NS/GSENGINE 9 - 47
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

ENGINE OIL CHANGE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN-
MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Remove oil fill cap.
(3) Hoist vehicle. Refer to Hoisting and Jacking
Recommendations.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan (Fig. 5). Inspect drain plug
threads for stretching or other damage. Replace
drain plug if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL QUALITY
Use only oils conforming to API (American Petro-
leum Institute) quality SG/CD, or CCMC G4. Use
only Diesel engine oil meeting standardMIL-2104C
or API service classificationSG/CD or CCMM PD1.
OIL VISCOSITY
Grade 15W-40 is recommended for temperatures
between +35ÉC to ±10ÉC (95ÉF to 14ÉF). Low viscosity
oils must have the proper API quality or the CCMC
G5 designation. Low viscosity oils are preferred when
minimum temperatures consistently fall below ±12ÉC
(10ÉF).
ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the oil filter base (Fig. 6).
(4) When filter separates from base, tip gasket end
upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehi-
cle.
(5) With a cloth, wipe clean the gasket sealing sur-
face of oil and grime.
OIL FILTER INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto the base. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, hand tighten fil-
ter one full turn, do not over tighten.
Fig. 5 Oil Drain Plug
Fig. 6 Oil Filter
9 - 48 ENGINENS/GS
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect filter area for oil leaks.
TIMING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: If a timing gear is removed you must
loosen the rocker arm supports before rotating the
crankshaft or camshaft. This will prevent the valves
hitting the pistons.
For the engine components to be in proper timing
order, the timing gear marks (dots) must be aligned
as shown in (Fig. 7). To facilitate reassembly, align
the timing marks as shown in (Fig. 7), or mark the
timing gear positions before removal of any marked
gears or gear driven component(s).
VALVE AND SEAT REFACING
VALVE REFACING
(1) Use a valve refacing machine to reface the
intake and exhaust valves to the specified angle.
(2) After refacing, a margin of at least 4.52-4.49
mm (.178-.177 inch) must remain (Fig. 8). If the mar-
gin is less than 4.49 mm (.177 inch), the valve must
be replaced.
VALVE SEAT REFACING
(1) Install a pilot of the correct size in the valve
guide bore. Reface the valve seat to the specified
angle with a good dressing stone. Remove only
enough metal to provide a smooth finish.
(2) Use tapered stones to obtain the specified seat
width when required.
Fig. 7 Aligning Timing Marks
Fig. 8 Valve Specification
NS/GSENGINE 9 - 49
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)