1994 JEEP CHEROKEE tire type

When the transfer case is in the NEUTRAL po-
sition, both axles are disengaged from the pow-
ertrain. This allows the vehicle to be towed
without removing the drive shafts.
(2) Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.
(3) The vehicle can now be towed with the front
wheels raised (refer to Sling-Type, Front-End Tow-
ing).
VEHICLE DOORS LOCKED
Place a tow dolly under the rear wheels (Fig. 14)
and tow with the front end raised (refer to Sling-
Type, Front-End Towing).
4WD EMERGENCY TOWINGÐTRANSFER CASE
NOT SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL
When a situation arises and the transfer case can-
not be shifted to NEUTRAL, any of the following
methods can be used to tow a 4WD vehicle.
Drive shafts not removed, place the rear
wheels on a tow dolly and tow with the front
end raised.
Drive shafts not removed, place the front
wheels on a tow dolly and tow with the rear end
raised.
Rear drive shaft removed, tow with the front
end raised.
Front drive shaft removed, tow with the rear
end raised.
Both drive shafts removed, tow with all four
wheels on the road surface.
(1) Turn ignition key switch to the unlocked (OFF)
position.
(2) Shift the transmission to the NEUTRAL posi-
tion.
(3) Determine the method by which the vehicle
will be towed and prepare the vehicle for towing.
(4) Connect the vehicle to the tow vehicle. Refer to
the applicable procedure.
FLAT TOWING (4 TIRES/WHEELS ON
SURFACE)
Tow a vehicle in this manner only when all four
wheels will freely rotate. Prepare the vehicle accord-
ing to the following procedures.
2WD VEHICLES
(1) Mark the drive shaft and the axle drive pinion
gear shaft yoke for installation alignment reference.
(2) Remove the drive shaft. Install a protective
covering over the drive shaft U-joints to retain them
assembled and protected.
(3) Cover the open end of the transmission exten-
sion housing.4WD VEHICLES
(1) Mark the drive shafts and the axle drive pinion
gear shaft yokes for installation alignment reference.
(2) Remove the drive shafts. Install a protective
covering over the drive shaft U-joints/CV-joints to re-
tain them assembled and protected.
(3) Cover the exposed ends of the transfer case.
CAUTION: Whenever a drive shaft has been re-
moved and installed, check the transmission fluid
level of the transmission and transfer case. Driving
a vehicle with low tranfer case fluid can damage the
transmission and transfer case.
EMERGENCY TOW HOOKS
WARNING: REMAIN AT A SAFE DISTANCE FROM A
VEHICLE THAT IS BEING TOWED VIA ITS TOW
HOOKS. THE TOW STRAPS/CHAINS COULD POSSI-
BLY BREAK AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY.
Some Jeeptvehicles are equipped with emergency
tow hooks located at the front end (Fig. 15). Some
Jeeptvehicles also have emergency tow hooks lo-
cated at the rear ende. The tow hooks should be used
forEMERGENCYpurposes only.
CAUTION: DO NOT use emergency tow hooks for
tow truck hook-up or highway towing.
Fig. 15 Emergency Front Tow HooksÐXJ & YJ
Vehicles
0 - 12 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

DRAINING ATF/FILTER REMOVAL
Drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) im-
mediately after stopping the engine (before the ATF
cools).
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Loosen the transmission pan bolts and drain
the original ATF into an appropriate container. Re-
move the pan bolts, the pan and the gasket.
Care should be exercised when disposing used
ATF after it has been drained from a vehicle
transmission.
(3) Remove the screws and the ATF filter (Fig. 8).
Discard the filter.
FILTER INSTALLATION/ATF RE-FILL
(1) Install a replacement ATF filter. Tighten the
screws with 4 NIm (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Clean the pan thoroughly. Install a replace-
ment gasket on the pan. Install the pan with the at-
taching bolts:
²model AW-4 transmission Ð tighten the pan bolts
with 7 NIm (60 in. lbs.) torque; and
²model 998 transmission Ð tighten the pan bolts
with 17 NIm (150 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(4) Pour approximately 4.7 liters (5 quarts) of ATF
into the filler tube. Use MerconŸ ATF for AW-4 au-
tomatic transmissions. Use MOPAR ATF PLUS type
7176 or equivalent, for 998 automatic transmissions.
(5) Place a block in front of and at the rear of one
wheel/tire to prevent vehicle movement.
(6) Start the engine and allow it to idle a few min-
utes.
(7) Apply the brake pedal and engage the parking
brake. Move the transmission selector lever through
all positions, then place the selector lever in NEU-
TRAL position.(8) With the transmission at normal operating
temperature, observe the ATF level on the dipstick.
Add ATF (if necessary) to raise the level to the
FULL mark on the dipstick.Only 0.5 liter (1.0 pint)
will raise the level from the ADD mark to the
FULL mark when the ATF is at normal operat-
ing temperature.
(9) Inspect for fluid leaks and correct as necessary.
(10) Remove the wheel/tire blocks.
TRANSFER CASE
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
The fluid (ATF) level in transfer cases should be
determined at the same time as the engine oil is
changed and the oil filter is replaced. Add ATF as
necessary.
In addition, transfer case ATF should be changed
after each 48 000-km (30,000-miles) interval of vehi-
cle operation has elapsed.
FLUID SPECIFICATIONS
If it is necessary to add fluid to a transfer case (or
when the fluid is changed), use MOPAR ATF PLUS
type 7176 or an equivalent MerconŸ/Dexron IIŸ
ATF.
FLUID LEVEL
The transfer case fill-hole plug is located at the
rear of the housing (Fig. 9).
Determine the transfer case fluid (ATF) level ac-
cording to the following procedure.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the fill-hole plug from the transfer
case. The ATF level should be at the bottom edge of
the fill hole. The level can be slightly below the bot-
tom edge of the fill hole if the fluid is cold.
Fig. 9 Transfer CaseÐTypical
Fig. 8 ATF FilterÐTypical
JLUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 25

CHASSIS AND BODY COMPONENTS
INDEX
page page
Body Components........................ 34
Chassis Component and Wheel Bearing
Lubricants............................ 30
Front Wheel Bearings..................... 31
Headlamps............................. 35Manual Steering GearÐYJ Vehicles.......... 32
Power Brake System...................... 32
Power Steering System.................... 31
Steering Linkage and Ball Studs............. 30
Tires.................................. 34
CHASSIS COMPONENT AND WHEEL BEARING
LUBRICANTS
The chassis component and wheel bearing lubri-
cants that are recommended for Jeeptvehicles are
identified by the NLGI Certification Symbol (Fig. 1).
The symbol contains a coded designation that identi-
fies the usage and quality of the lubricant.
The letterGdesignates wheel bearing lubricant.
LetterLdesignates chassis lubricant. When the let-
ters are combined the lubricant can be used for dual
applications. The suffix lettersCandBdesignate the
level of the lubricant for the application. The letterC
represents level available for wheel bearing lubricant
(G) and the letterBrepresents level available for
chassis lubricant (L).
STEERING LINKAGE AND BALL STUDS
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
The general condition of the steering linkage (Fig.
2) should be inspected and the ball studs should be
lubricated:
²2WD vehicles Ð after each 24 000-km (15,000-
miles) or six-months interval of vehicle operation has
elapsed; or
²4WD vehicles Ð after each 12 000-km (7,500-
miles) or six-months interval of vehicle operation has
elapsed.
LUBRICANT SPECIFICATION
Steering linkage should be lubricated with a dual-
purpose, lithium-base lubricant that is identified as
NLGI GC-LB lubricant.
INSPECTION/LUBRICATION
(1) Inspect the steering linkage. Examine the tie
rods and the drag link for bending, and the ball
studs for looseness and excessive wear.
(2) Replace, as necessary, all torn/ruptured ball-
stud seals and damaged/defective steering linkage
components.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent lubricant from con-
tacting the brake rotors.
(3) Lubricate the ball studs:
²clean the tips of the Zerk type lubrication fittings
on the tie-rod and drag-link ball-stud ends to avoid
lubricant contamination;
²lubricate the ball studs with high quality, dual-
purpose, lithium base chassis/wheel bearing lubri-
cant (NLGI GC-LB lubricant);
²cease the lubricant pressure when lubricant begins
to freely exit the base of the seal, or if the seal be-
gins to expand; and
²wipe the excess lubricant from the exterior sur-
faces of the ball joints and the adjacent surfaces.
Fig. 1 NLGI Lubricant Container Certification/
Identification Symbol
Fig. 2 Steering Components (XJ)ÐTypical
0 - 30 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

ABS BRAKE DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
ABS Fault Diagnosis....................... 4
ABS System Wiring and Electrical Circuits...... 4
ABS Warning Light Display.................. 3
Brake Warning Light Display................. 4
Diagnosis Procedures...................... 3
ECU Diagnosis........................... 4
HCU Diagnosis........................... 4Loss of Sensor Input....................... 3
Operating Sound Levels.................... 3
Rear Speed Sensor Air Gap................. 3
Steering Response........................ 3
Vehicle Response in Antilock Mode............ 3
Wheel/Tire Size and Input Signals............. 3
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES
ABS diagnosis involves three basic steps. First is
observation of the warning light display. Second is a
visual examination for low fluid level, leaks, parking
brakes applied, or obvious damage to system compo-
nents or wires. The third step involves using the
DRB II scan tool to identify a faulty component.
The visual examination requires a check of reser-
voir fluid level and all system components. Things to
look for are leaks, loose connections, or obvious com-
ponent damage.
The final diagnosis step involves using the DRB II
scan tool to determine the specific circuit or compo-
nent at fault. The tester is connected to the ABS di-
agnostic connector in the passenger compartment.
The connector is at the driver side of the center con-
sole under the instrument panel. Refer to the DRB II
scan tool Manual for tester procedures. Also refer to
the ABS Fault Diagnosis charts at the end of this
section for additional diagnosis information.
Initial faults should be cleared and the vehicle road
tested to reset any faults that remain in the system.
Faults can be cleared with the DRB II scan tool.
REAR SPEED SENSOR AIR GAP
The front wheel sensors are fixed and cannot be ad-
justed. Only the rear sensor air gap is adjustable. Air
gap must be set with a brass feeler gauge.
Correct air gap is important to proper signal gen-
eration. An air gap that is too large may cause com-
plete loss of sensor input. Or, a gap that is too small
could produce a false input signal, or damaging con-
tact between the sensor and tone ring.
WHEEL/TIRE SIZE AND INPUT SIGNALS
Antilock system operation is dependant on accurate
signals from the wheel speed sensors. Ideally, the ve-
hicle wheels and tires should all be the same size
and type. However, the Jeep ABS system is designed
to function with a compact spare tire installed.
OPERATING SOUND LEVELS
The ABS pump and solenoid valves may produce
some sound as they cycle on and off. This is a normal
condition and should not be mistaken for faulty oper-
ation.
VEHICLE RESPONSE IN ANTILOCK MODE
During antilock braking, the HCU solenoid valves
cycle rapidly in response to ECU inputs.
The driver will experience a pulsing sensation
within the vehicle as the solenoids decrease, hold, or
increase pressure as needed. A pulsing brake pedal
will also be noted.
The pulsing sensation occurs as the solenoids cycle
during antilock mode braking. A slight pulse in the
brake pedal may also be noted during the dynamic
self check part of system initialization.
STEERING RESPONSE
A modest amount of steering input is required dur-
ing extremely high deceleration braking, or when
braking on differing traction surfaces. An example of
differing traction surfaces would be when the left
side wheels are on ice and the right side wheels are
on dry pavement.
LOSS OF SENSOR INPUT
Sensor malfunctions will most likely be due to
loose connections, damaged sensor wires, incorrect
rear sensor air gap, or a malfunctioning sensor. Ad-
ditional causes of sensor faults would be sensor and
tone ring misalignment or damage.
ABS WARNING LIGHT DISPLAY
ABS Light Illuminates At Startup
The amber ABS light illuminates at startup as
part of the system self check feature. The light illu-
minates for 2-3 seconds then goes off as part of the
normal self check routine.
ABS Light Remains On After Startup
An ABS system fault is indicated when the light
remains on after startup. Diagnosis with the DRB II
JBRAKES 5 - 3

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

Check the high-tension cable connections for good
contact at the ignition coil, distributor cap towers
and spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The terminals and spark plug covers should be in
good condition. Terminals should fit tightly to the ig-
nition coil, distributor cap and spark plugs. The
spark plug cover (boot) of the cable should fit tight
around the spark plug insulator. Loose cable connec-
tions can cause corrosion and increase resistance, re-
sulting in shorter cable service life.
Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moist-
ened with a nonflammable solvent and wipe dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for damage with an
oscilloscope, follow the instructions of the equipment
manufacturer.
If an oscilloscope is not available, spark plug cables
may be tested as follows:
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected for longer than necessary during test-
ing. This may cause possible heat damage to the
catalytic converter. Total test time must not exceed
ten minutes.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. Remove the dis-
tributor cap from the distributor.Do not remove
cables from cap.Remove cable from spark plug.
Connect ohmmeter to spark plug terminal end of ca-
ble and to corresponding electrode in distributor cap.
Resistance should be 250 to 1000 Ohms per inch of
cable. If not, remove cable from distributor cap tower
and connect ohmmeter to the terminal ends of cable.
If resistance is not within specifications as found in
the Spark Plug Cable Resistance chart, replace the
cable. Test all spark plug cables in this manner.To test ignition coil-to-distributor cap cable, do not
remove the cable from the cap. Connect ohmmeter to
rotor button (center contact) of distributor cap and
terminal at ignition coil end of cable. If resistance is
not within specifications as found in the Spark Plug
Cable Resistance chart, remove the cable from the
distributor cap. Connect the ohmmeter to the termi-
nal ends of the cable. If resistance is not within spec-
ifications as found in the Spark Plug Cable
Resistance chart, replace the cable. Inspect the igni-
tion coil tower for cracks, burns or corrosion.
For removal and installation of spark plug cables,
refer to Spark Plug Secondary Cables in the Compo-
nent Removal/Installation section.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TEST
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its
circuitry, refer to the DRB scan tool. Also refer to the
appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures man-
ual. To test the sensor only, refer to the following:
The throttle position sensor can be tested with a
digital voltmeter. The center terminal of the sensor
connector is the output terminal (Figs. 30 or 31).
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
Fig. 30 SensorÐ2.5L Engine
Fig. 31 SensorÐ4.0L Engine
8D - 18 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ

FUSIBLE LINK REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: Do not replace blown fusible links with a
standard wire. Only use fusible type wire with hypa-
lon insulation or damage to the electrical system
could occur. Also make sure correct gauge of wir-
ing is used. Refer to the wiring diagrams for proper
gauge and color.
When a fusible link blows it is important to find
out what the problem is. They are placed in the elec-
trical system for protection against shorts to ground.
This can be caused by a component failure or various
wiring failures.Do not just replace the fusible
link to correct the problem.
When diagnosing a faulty fusible link it is impor-
tant to check the wire carefully. In some instances
the link may be blown and it will not show through
the insulation, the wire should be checked over its
entire length for internal breaks.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Cut out the blown portion of the fusible link.
(3) Strip 1 inch of insulation from each end of the
existing fusible link.
(4) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the fusible link. Make sure the tubing will be
long enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
(5) Cut a replacement piece of fusible link approx-
imately two inches longer than the piece removed.
(6) Remove one inch of insulation from each end of
the replacement fusible link.
(7) Spread the strands of wire apart on each of the
exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(8) Push the two ends of the wire together until
the strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7
example 2).
(9) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(10) Solder the wires together using rosin core type
solder only.Do not use acid core type solder.
(11) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(12) Secure the fusible link to the existing ones to
prevent chafing or damage to the insulation.
(13) Connect battery and test affected systems.
WIRING REPAIR
When replacing or repairing a wire, it is important
that the correct gauge be used as shown in the wir-
ing diagrams. The wires must also be held securely
in place to prevent damage to the insulation.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each end of
the wire.
(3) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.(4) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each of
the exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(5) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7 ex-
ample 2).
(6) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(7) Solder the connection together using rosin core
type solder only.Do not use acid core solder.
(8) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(9) Secure the wire to the existing ones to prevent
chafing or damage to the insulation.
(10) Connect battery and test affected systems.
CONNECTOR REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector to be repaired from its
mating half.
(3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 8).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal while pulling on the wire to remove the
terminal from the connector (Fig. 9).
(5) Reset the terminal locking tang, if it has one.
(6) Insert the removed wire in the same cavity on
the repair connector.
(7) Repeat steps four through six for each wire in
the connector, being sure that all wires are inserted
into the proper cavities. For additional connector pin
out identification refer to the wiring diagrams.
(8) Insert the connector locking wedge into the re-
paired connector.
(9) Connect connector to its mating half.
Fig. 7 Wire Repair
8W - 4 WIRING DIAGRAMSJ

(10) Connect battery and test affected systems.
CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect Battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired from
its mating half.
(3) Cut off the existing wire connector directly be-
hind the insulator and remove six inches of tape from
the harness.
(4) Stagger cut all wires on the harness side about
1/2 inch apart (Fig. 10).
(5) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on
the harness side.
(6) Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair
connector assembly in the opposite order as was done
on the harness side of the repair (allow extra length
for soldered connections). Check that the overall
length is the same as the original (Fig. 10).
(7) Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire.(8) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
(9) Spread the strands of the wire apart on each of
the exposed wires (Fig. 7 example 1).
(10) Push the two ends of wire together until the
strands of wire are close to the insulation (Fig. 7 ex-
ample 2).
(11) Twist the wires together (Fig. 7 example 3).
(12) Solder the connection together using rosin
core type solder only.Do not use acid core solder.
(13) Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint
and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the
tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both
ends of the tubing.
(14) Repeat steps 8 through 13 for each wire.
(15) Re-tape the wire harness starting 1-1/2 inches
behind the connector and 2 inches past the repair.
(16) Reconnect the repaired connector.
(17) Connect battery and test affected systems.
TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Disconnect the connector being repaired from
its mating half.
(3) Remove connector locking wedge (Fig. 8).
(4) Position the connector locking finger away from
the terminal while pulling on the wire to remove the
terminal from the connector (Fig. 9).
(5) Cut the wire 6 inches from the back of the con-
nector.
(6) Remove 1 inch of insulation from the wire on
the harness side.
(7) Select a wire from the terminal repair assembly
that best matches the color wire being repaired.
(8) Cut the repair wire to the proper length and re-
move 1 inch of insulation.
(9) Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one
side of the wire. Make sure the tubing will be long
enough to cover and seal the entire repair area.
Fig. 8 Connector Locking Wedge Tab (Typical)
Fig. 9 Connector Locking Finger and Locking
Wedge (Typical)
Fig. 10 Stagger Cutting Wires
JWIRING DIAGRAMS 8W - 5