1994 JEEP CHEROKEE wheel bolt torque

Clean the reservoir and caps thoroughly before
checking level or adding fluid. Cap open lines and
hoses during service to prevent dirt entry.
Dirt or foreign material entering the ABS hydrau-
lic system through the reservoir opening will circu-
late within the system. The result will be poor brake
performance and possible component failure. Use
clean, fresh fluid only to top off, or refill the system.
WHEEL SENSOR AIR GAP ADJUSTMENT
Only rear sensor air gap is adjustable. The front
sensors are fixed and cannot be adjusted.
A rear sensor air gap adjustment is only
needed when reinstalling an original sensor. Re-
placement sensors have an air gap spacer at-
tached to the sensor pickup face. The spacer
establishes correct air gap when pressed against
the tone ring during installation. As the tone
ring rotates, it peels the spacer off the sensor to
create the required air gap.
Preferred rear sensor air gap is 1.1 mm (0.043 in.).
Acceptable air gap range is 0.92 to 1.275 mm (0.036
to 0.050 in.).
Front sensor air gap is not adjustable. The front
sensors are fixed in position and cannot be adjusted.
Front sensor air gap can only be checked. Air gap
should be 0.040 to 1.3 mm (0.0157 to 0.051 in.). If
front sensor air gap is incorrect, the sensor is either
loose, or damaged.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and turn wheel outward for eas-
ier access to sensor.
(2) Remove sensor wire from mounting brackets.
(3) Clean sensor and surrounding area before removal.
(4) Remove bolt attaching sensor to steering
knuckle and remove sensor.
(5) Unseat grommet retaining sensor wire in wheel
house panel.
(6) In engine compartment, disconnect sensor wire con-
nector at harness plug. Then remove sensor and wire.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION
(1) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to
bolt that attaches sensor to steering knuckle. Use
new sensor bolt if original bolt is worn or damaged.
(2) Position sensor on steering knuckle. Seat sen-
sor locating tab in hole in knuckle and install sensor
attaching bolt finger tight.
(3) Tighten sensor bolt to 14 NIm (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Attach sensor wire to steering knuckle bracket
with grommets on sensor wire.
(5) Route sensor wire forward and behind shock
absorber. Then attach sensor wire to spring seat
bracket with grommets on sensor wire.
(6) Route sensor wire to outer sill bracket. Remove
all twists or kinks from wire.(7) Attach sensor wire to sill bracket with grom-
met. Be sure wire is free of twists and kinks.
(8) Verify sensor wire routing. Wire should loop
forward and above sill bracket. Loose end of wire
should be below sill bracket and towards brake hose.
(9) Seat sensor wire grommet in body panel and
clip wire to brake line at grommet location.
(10) Connect sensor wire to harness in engine com-
partment.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) On XJ models, if separate connectors are not
used to attach sensor harness to each sensor wire,
proceed as follows:
(a) Raise and fold rear seat forward for access to
rear sensor connectors (Figs. 4 and 5).
(b) Disconnect sensors at rear harness connectors.
(c) Push sensor grommets and sensor wires
through floorpan.
Fig. 4 Acceleration Switch And Rear Sensor
Connections (XJ)
Fig. 5 Rear Sensor Connections (XJ)
JABS COMPONENT SERVICE 5 - 49

(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Disconnect sensor wires at rear axle connectors.
(4) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Remove brake drum.
(6) Remove clips securing sensor wires to brake
lines or rear axle and rear brake hose.
(7) Unseat sensor support plate grommet.
(8) Remove bolt attaching sensor to bracket and
remove sensor.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION
(1) Insert sensor wire through support plate hole
and seat sensor grommet in support plate.
(2) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to
original sensor bolt. Use new bolt if original is worn
or damaged.
(3) Install sensor bolt finger tight only at this
time.
(4) Set sensor air gap as follows:
(a) Iforiginal sensoris being installed, remove
any remaining pieces of cardboard spacer from sen-
sor pickup face. Then adjust air gap to preferred
setting of 1.1 mm (0.043 in.) with brass feeler
gauge (Fig. 6). Tighten sensor bolt to 11 Nzm (11 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(b) Ifnew sensoris being installed, push card-
board spacer on sensor face (Fig. 7) against tone
ring. Then tighten sensor bolt to 8 Nzm (6 ft. lbs.)
torque. Correct air gap will be established as tone
ring rotates and peels spacer off sensor face.
(c) Verify sensor air gap adjustment. If adjust-
ment changed after tightening bolt, readjust sensor
air gap as needed.
(5) On YJ, connect rear sensor wires to connectors
at axle. On XJ, route sensor wires to rear seat area.
(6) Feed sensor wires through floorpan access hole
and seat sensor grommets in floorpan.
(7) Verify that rear sensor wire are secured to rear
brake hose and axle with clips. Verify that wire is
clear of rotating components.
(8) Install brake drum and wheel.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) On XJ, connect sensor wire to harness connec-
tor. Then reposition carpet and fold rear seat down.
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect pedal travel sensor wires.
(2) Remove air cleaner and hoses on XJ models.
(3) Remove clamps that secure reservoir hoses to
HCU pipes.
(4) Position small drain container under master
cylinder reservoir. Remove reservoir hoses from HCU
pipes and allow fluid to drain into container before
removing reservoir. Discard fluid drained from reser-
voir.
(5) Pump brake pedal to exhaust all vacuum from
power brake booster.
(6) Disconnect necessary brakelines at master cyl-
inder and combination valve. Also remove combina-
tion valve bracket bolt.
(7) Remove nuts attaching master cylinder to
booster mounting studs.
(8) Remove master cylinder. Pull cylinder forward
and off studs. Then work cylinder past combination
valve, brakelines, pedal travel sensor and out of en-
gine compartment.
MASTER CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) If new master cylinder is being installed, bleed
cylinder on bench before installing it in vehicle.
(2) Work master cylinder into position and install
it in booster. Be sure cylinder is properly seated on
booster studs. Also be sure booster-to-cylinder seal is
not displaced during installation.
(3) Connect reservoir hoses to HCU pipes.
(4) Verify that master cylinder and booster are
properly connected.
(5) Install and tighten master cylinder attaching
nuts to 34 Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Connect brakelines to master cylinder.
(7) Install combination valve, if removed and in-
stall bolt that secures valve bracket to master cylin-
der.
(8) Connect sensor wires.
Fig. 6 Setting Air Gap On Original Rear Sensor
Fig. 7 New Rear Sensor With Air Gap Spacer
5 - 50 ABS COMPONENT SERVICEJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Problem Causes..................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3Inspection and Diagnosis Charts.............. 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH PROBLEM CAUSES
CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
contact surfaces will cause faulty operation. The
usual result is chatter, slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are from loose or damaged slave
cylinder fluid lines and connecting fittings. However,
clutch fluid leaks will usually be noted and corrected
before severe contamination occurs.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
Flywheel Runout
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand
with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equip-
ment. Remove only enough material to reduce scor-
ing (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
Clutch Cover And Disc Runout
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing. To avoid warping the cover, the bolts must tight-
ened alternately (diagonal pattern) and evenly (2-3
threads at a time) to specified torque.
Clutch Housing Misalignment
Clutch housing alignment is important to proper
clutch operation. The housing maintains alignment
between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment can cause clutch noise, hard shifting,
incomplete release and chatter. It can also result in
premature wear of the pilot bearing, cover release
fingers and clutch disc. In severe cases, misalign-
ment can also cause premature wear of the transmis-
sion input shaft and shaft bearing.
Housing misalignment is generally caused by in-
correct seating on the engine or transmission, loose
housing bolts, missing alignment dowels or housing
damage. Infrequently, misalignment may also be
caused by housing mounting surfaces that are not
completely parallel. Misalignment can be corrected
with shims.INSTALLATION METHODS AND PARTS
USAGE
Distortion of clutch components during installation
and the use of non-standard components are addi-
tional causes of clutch malfunction.
Improper clutch cover bolt tightening can distort
the cover. The usual result is clutch grab, chatter
and rapid wear. Tighten the cover bolts as described
in Clutch Service section.
An improperly seated flywheel and/or clutch hous-
ing are additional causes of clutch failure. Improper
seating will produce misalignment and additional
clutch problems.
The use of non-standard or low quality parts will
also lead to problems and wear. Use recommended
factory quality parts to avoid comebacks.
INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 1) outlines items
to be checked before and during clutch installation.
Use the chart as a check list to help avoid overlook-
ing potential problem sources during service opera-
tions.
The diagnosis charts describe common clutch prob-
lems, causes and correction. Fault conditions are
listed at the top of each chart. Conditions, causes and
corrective action are outlined in the indicated col-
umns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
6 - 4 CLUTCH DIAGNOSISJ

CLUTCH SERVICE
INDEX
page page
Clutch Cover and Disc Installation............ 10
Clutch Cover and Disc Removal............. 10
Clutch Fluid Level........................ 14
Clutch Housing Replacement................ 11
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Installation.......... 12
Clutch Hydraulic Linkage Removal........... 11Clutch Pedal Installation................... 15
Clutch Pedal Removal..................... 15
Clutch Safety Precautions.................. 10
Flywheel Service......................... 15
Pilot Bearing Replacement................. 11
Release Bearing Replacement............... 11
CLUTCH SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. DUST AND DIRT ON
CLUTCH PARTS USE MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FI-
BERS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CONCENTRATIONS
OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY
HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR DURING SERVICE
AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH COMPONENTS WITH
COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH A DRY BRUSH. EI-
THER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS WITH A WATER
DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VACUUM CLEANER
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR REMOVING ASBES-
TOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT CREATE DUST
BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC. REPLACE THE DISC
IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS DAMAGED OR
CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL DUST AND
DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS IN SEALED
BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL HELP MINIMIZE
EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO OTHERS. FOL-
LOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES
PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY
AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE
ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY (EPA), FOR
THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS
CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to procedures in
Group 21.
(2) If original clutch cover will be reinstalled,
mark position of cover on flywheel for assembly ref-
erence. Use paint or a scriber for this purpose.
(3) If clutch cover is to be replaced, cover bolts can
be removed in any sequence. However, if original
cover will be reinstalled, loosen cover bolts evenly
and in rotation to relieve spring tension equally.
This is necessary avoid warping cover.
(4) Remove cover bolts and remove cover and disc
(Fig. 2).
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit
emery cloth. Then clean surface with a wax and
grease remover.
(2) Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(3) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc as follows:
(a) Slide disc onto transmission input shaft
splines. Disc should slide freely on splines.
(b) Leave disc on shaft and check face runout
with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub and
about 6 mm (1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing.
(c) Face runout should not exceed 0.5 mm (0.020
in.). Obtain another clutch disc if runout exceeds
this limit.
(4) Position clutch disc on flywheel. Be sure side of
disc marked flywheel side is positioned against fly-
wheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, be sure flat side
of disc hub is toward flywheel.
(5) Insert clutch alignment tool in clutch disc (Fig.
3).
(6) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on flywheel. Be sure disc hub is positioned
correctly. Side of hub marked Flywheel Side should
face flywheel (Fig. 2). If disc is not marked, place flat
side of disc against flywheel.
(7) Position clutch cover over disc and on flywheel
(Fig. 3).
(8) Install clutch cover bolts finger tight.
(9) Tighten cover bolts evenly and in rotation a
few threads at a time.Cover bolts must be tight-
ened evenly and to specified torque to avoid dis-
torting cover. Tightening torques are 31 Nzm (23
ft. lbs.) on 2.5L engines and 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) on
4.0L engines.
(10) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to pilot bearing hub and splines of
transmission input shaft.Do not overlubricate
shaft splines. This will result in grease contami-
nation of disc.
(11) Install transmission (Fig. 4). Refer to proce-
dures in Group 21.
6 - 10 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

RELEASE BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission as described in Group 21.
(2) Disconnect release bearing from release lever
and remove bearing (Fig. 5).
(3) Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(4) Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure
pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer
spring if bent or damaged in any way.
(5) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease. Apply grease to
end of long shank, small diameter flat blade screw-
driver. Then insert tool through clutch disc hub to
reach bearing.
(6) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot sur-face with Mopar high temperature grease.
(7) Install new release bearing. Be sure bearing is
properly secured to release fork.
(8) Install transmission as described in Group 21.
PILOT BEARING REPLACEMENT
(1) Remove transmission. Refer to Group 21 for
procedure.
(2) Remove clutch cover and disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing. Use internal (blind hole)
puller such those as supplied in Snap On Tool Set
CG40CB to remove bearing.
(4) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease.
(5) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig.
6).
(6) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(7) Install clutch disc and cover as described in
this section.
(8) Install transmission. Refer to Group 21 for pro-
cedure.
CLUTCH HOUSING REPLACEMENT
The AX 15 clutch housing is removable and can be
replaced when the transmission is out of the vehicle.
The bolts attaching the housing to the transmis-
sion case are located inside the housing (Fig. 7). Rec-
ommended tightening torque for the clutch housing-
to-transmission bolts is 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.).
Be sure the transmission and housing mating
surfaces are clean before installing an original,
or replacement clutch housing. Dirt/foreign ma-
terial trapped between the housing and trans-
mission will cause misalignment. If
misalignment is severe enough, the result will be
clutch drag, incomplete release and hard shift-
ing.
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and
connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units. Also note that
removal/installation procedures for right and
left hand drive models are basically the same.
Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 8).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 2 Clutch Disc Position
Fig. 3 Typical Method Of Aligning Clutch Disc
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 11

Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus-
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly-
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indi-
cator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.
Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching
bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks
in the area of the attaching bolt holes.
Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheel
is replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on the replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
²142 Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
²68 Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) plus an additional turn of 60É
for 4-cylinder flywheels
Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear.If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom-
mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, a replacement ring gear can be installed. How-
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han-
dling a heated ring gear.
(c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-
off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch.(d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it.The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important.
Every surface of the gear must be heated at the
same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven
or similar enclosed heating device must be used.
Temperature required for uniform expansion is ap-
proximately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to re-
move the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as necessary
for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down
before installation. Set the assembly on a work-
bench and let it cool in normal shop air.
CAUTION: Do not use water, or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air can distort, or crack the
gear and flywheel.
6 - 16 CLUTCH SERVICEJ

REMOVALÐALL ENGINES
(1) Near the rear of the intake manifold, discon-
nect the pigtail harness (on the sensor) from the
main electrical harness.
(2) Remove the nut holding sensor wire clip to fuel
rail mounting stud.
(3) Depending upon application, remove either the
sensor mounting bolt(s) or nuts.
(4) Remove the sensor.
(5) Remove clip from sensor wire harness.
INSTALLATIONÐALL EXCEPT YJ MODELS
WITH 4.0L ENGINE AND AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
(1) Install the sensor flush against the opening in
the transmission housing.
(2) Install and tighten the two sensor mounting
bolts (or nuts) to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: On some models, two bolts used to se-
cure the sensor to the transmission. These bolts
are specially machined to correctly space the unit
to the flywheel. Do not attempt to install any other
bolts.
(3) Connect the electrical connector to the sensor.
(4) Install clip on sensor wire harness.
(5) Install clip over fuel rail mounting stud. Install
clip mounting nut.
INSTALLATIONÐYJ MODELS WITH 4.0L
ENGINE AND AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
(1) Be sure the paper/cardboard spacer (Fig. 7) has
been installed to the bottom of the new sensor.If original sensor is being reinstalled (such as with
transmission or flywheel removal), clean bottom of
the sensor before installation. Obtain a new spacer
and remove the paper backing. Install the self-adhe-
sive side to bottom of sensor. This spacerMUSTbe
installed. If spacer is not installed, sensor will be
damaged when engine is started.
(2) Position sensor to transmission bellhousing and
install mounting bolt finger tight.
(3) Gently seat (push down) the sensor until the
paper spacer contacts the outer edge of the flywheel.
(4) Tighten sensor mounting bolt (Fig. 7) to 17-
to-21 Nzm (13-to-16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect the electrical connector to sensor.
(6) Install the clip to sensor wire harness.
(7) Install clip over fuel rail mounting stud. Install
clip mounting nut.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR. RE-
FER TO GROUP 7, COOLING.
REMOVAL
The sensor is installed in the thermostat housing
(Fig. 8).
(1) Drain cooling system until the coolant level is
below the cylinder head. For cooling system draining,
refer to Group 7, Cooling.
(2) Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wire
connector.
(3) Remove the sensor from the thermostat hous-
ing (Fig. 8).
Fig. 7 Crankshaft Position SensorÐ4.0L EngineÐYJ
models With Automatic Transmission
Fig. 8 Coolant Temperature SensorÐTypical
8D - 22 IGNITION SYSTEMSJ