1994 JEEP CHEROKEE wheel bolt torque

(9) Disconnect the tie rod from the steering
knuckle. Disconnect the steering dampener from the
axle bracket.
(10) Support the axle with a hydraulic jack under
the differential. Raise the axle just enough to relieve
the axle weight from the springs.
(11) Remove the spring U-bolts from the plate
brackets.
(12) Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE the bolts that
attach the spring rear pivot at the frame rail brack-
ets. This will allow the springs to pivot without bind-
ing on the bushings.
(13) Disconnect shackle from the springs and lower
the springs to the surface.
(14) Lower the jack enough to remove the axle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: All suspension components that use rub-
ber bushings should be tightened with the vehicle
at the normal height. It is important to have the
springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when
the fasteners are torqued. If the springs are not at
their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort
could be affected along with premature rubber
bushing wear. Rubber bushings must never be lu-
bricated.
(1) Support the axle on a hydraulic jack under the
differential. Position the axle under the vehicle.
(2) Raise the springs and install the spring shackle
bolts.Do not tighten at this time.
(3) Lower the axle and align the spring center
bolts with the locating holes in the axle pads and
plate brackets.
(4) Install the spring U-bolts through the plate
brackets and tighten to 122 Nzm (90 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect the track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt.Do not tighten at this time.
It is important that the springs support the
weight of the vehicle when the track bar is con-
nected. If the springs are not at their usual po-
sition, the vehicle ride comfort could be affected.
(6) Install the shock absorber and tighten the nut
to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install the stabilizer bar link to the axle
bracket. Tighten the nut to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(8) Install the tie rod to the steering knuckles and
tighten the nuts to 47 Nzm (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Install
the steering dampener to the axle bracket and
tighten the bolt to 75 Nzm (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the brake components and ABS brake
sensor (if equipped). Refer to Group 5ÐBrakes.
(10) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting and
axle shift motor vacuum harness.(11) Align the reference marks and connect the
drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tighten the U-joint
clamp bolts to 19 Nzm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Check differential lubricant and add if neces-
sary.
(13) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(14) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(15) Tighten the spring rear pivot bolt/nut to 142
Nzm (105 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the spring shackle
bolt/nut to 135 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Tighten the track bar nut at the axle bracket
to 100 Nzm (74 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Check the front wheel alignment.
LUBRICANT CHANGE
The gear lubricant will drain quicker if the vehicle
has been recently driven.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the
differential housing cover.
(3) Remove the differential housing cover and
drain the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove the sealant from the housing and cover
surfaces. Use solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
(6) Apply a bead of MOPARtSilicone Rubber Seal-
ant to the housing cover (Fig. 1).Allow the sealant
to cure for a few minutes.
Install the housing cover within 5 minutes af-
ter applying the sealant. If not installed the seal-
ant must be removed and another bead applied.
Fig. 1 Typical Housing Cover With Sealant
2 - 22 FRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLEJ

(7) Install the cover and any identification tag.
Tighten the cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 41
Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Refill the differential with MOPARtHypoid
Gear Lubricant within 13 mm (1/2 in.) below the fill
plug hole.
(9) Install the fill hole plug and lower the vehicle.
PINION SEAL REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: The following procedures must be used
so the correct pinion bearing preload torque is re-
tained. If this procedure is not followed, the result
can be premature failure of the rear axle.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Mark the propeller shaft yoke and pinion yoke
for installation alignment reference.
(4) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(5) Rotate the pinion gear three or four times.
Make sure brakes are not dragging during this
procedure.
(6) Measure the amount of torque (in Newton-
meters or inch-pounds) necessary to rotate the pinion
gear with a torque wrench. Note the torque for in-
stallation reference.It must be known to properly
adjust the pinion gear bearing preload torque
after seal installation.
(7) Remove the pinion yoke nut and washer. Use
Remover C-452 and Wrench C-3281 to remove the
pinion yoke (Fig. 2).
(8) Mark the positions of the yoke and pinion gear
for installation alignment reference.(9) Use Remover W-251 to remove the pinion gear
seal (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with Installer W-147-E
and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 4).
(2) Align the reference marks and install yoke on
the pinion gear with Installer W-162-D.
(3) Install a new pinion nut on pinion shaft.
Tighten the nut only enough to remove the shaft
end play.
Fig. 2 Pinion Yoke Removal
Fig. 3 Seal Removal
Fig. 4 Pinion Seal Installation
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 23

CAUTION: Never loosen the pinion gear nut to de-
crease the pinion gear bearing preload torque. If the
specified preload torque is exceeded, a new col-
lapsible spacer must be installed. The torque se-
quence will have to be repeated.
(4) Install a socket and inch-pound torque wrench
on the pinion nut.
(5) Rotate the shaft with the torque wrench and
note the torque.
Required preload torque is the amount re-
corded during removal plus an additional 0.56
Nzm (5 in. lbs.).
(6) Use Flange Wrench C-3281 to retain the yoke
and shaft (Fig. 5). Tighten the shaft nut in very
small increments.
(7) Continue tightening the shaft nut in small in-
crements until the correct bearing preload torque is
attained.
(8) Align the installation reference marks and at-
tach the propeller shaft to the yoke.
(9) Add API grade GL 5 hypoid gear lubricant to
the differential housing, if necessary.
(10) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(11) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
HUB BEARING AND AXLE SHAFT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the brake components from the axle,
refer to Group 5, Brakes.
(4) Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle
hub nut (Fig. 6).(5) Remove the hub to knuckle bolts (Fig. 6). Re-
move the hub from the steering knuckle and axle
shaft.
(6) Remove the disc brake rotor shield from the
bearing carrier (Fig. 6).
(7) On disconnect axles, remove vacuum shift mo-
tor housing. Refer to Vacuum Disconnect Axle in this
section.
(8) Remove the axle shaft from the housing.Avoid
damaging the axle shaft oil seals in the differen-
tial.
Fig. 5 Tightening Pinion Shaft Nut
Fig. 6 Hub, Knuckle and Axle Shaft
2 - 24 FRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLEJ

INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean the axle shaft (Fig. 6) and ap-
ply a thin film of Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to
the shaft splines, seal contact surface, hub bore.
(2) Install the axle shaft into the housing and dif-
ferential side gears. Avoid damaging the axle shaft
oil seals in the differential.
(3) Install the hub bearing and brake dust shield
to the knuckle.
(4) Install the hub to knuckle bolts and tighten to
102 Nzm (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the
hub nut to 237 Nzm (175 ft. lbs.) torque. Install the
nut retainer and a new cotter pin (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake components, refer to Group 5,
Brakes.
(7) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(8) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
AXLE SHAFTÐ CARDAN U-JOINT
DISASSEMBLY
Single cardan U-joints are not serviceable. If defec-
tive, they must be replaced as a unit. If the bearings,
seals, spider or bearing caps are damaged or worn,
replace the complete U-joint.
CAUTION: Clamp only the forged portion of the
yoke in the vise. Also, to avoid distorting the yoke,
do not over tighten the vise jaws.
(1) Remove the bearing cap retaining snap rings
(Fig. 7).
It can be helpful to saturate the bearing caps
with penetrating oil prior to removal.(2) Locate a socket that is larger in diameter than
the bearing cap. Place the socket (receiver) against
the yoke and around the perimeter of the bearing cap
to be removed. Locate a socket that is smaller in di-
ameter than the bearing cap. Place the socket (driv-
er) against the opposite bearing cap. Position the
yoke with the sockets in a vise (Fig. 8).
(3) Compress the vise jaws to force the bearing cap
into the larger socket (receiver).
(4) Release the vise jaws. Remove the sockets and
bearing cap that was partially forced out of the yoke.
(5) Repeat the above procedure for the remaining
bearing cap.
(6) Remove the remaining bearing cap, bearings,
seals and spider from the propeller shaft yoke.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
(1) Clean all the U-joint yoke bores with cleaning
solvent and a wire brush. Ensure that all the rust
and foreign matter are removed from the bores.
(2) Inspect the yokes for distortion, cracks and
worn bearing cap bores.
(3) Replace the complete U-joint if any of the com-
ponents are defective.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Pack the bearing caps 1/3 full of wheel bearing
lubricant. Apply extreme pressure (EP), lithium-base
lubricant to aid in installation.
(2) Position the spider in the yoke. Insert the seals
and bearings. Tap the bearing caps into the yoke
bores far enough to hold the spider in position.
Fig. 7 Axle Shaft Outer U-Joint
Fig. 8 Yoke Bearing Cap Removal
JFRONT SUSPENSION AND AXLE 2 - 25

Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bushings or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted brake drum or shoes
²rear brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensator
port or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums arethe primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull. Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a par-
tial apply condition and pull if only one caliper is in-
volved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is mag-
nified. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be
at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING
THROUGH DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes lightly applied for a mile or
two. However, if the lining is both wet and dirty, dis-
assembly and cleaning will be necessary.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other liquid materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs
JBRAKES 5 - 9

(8) Install and tighten caliper mounting bolts to
10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they will contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for required caliper bolt length.
(9) Install wheels. Tighten lug nuts to 102 Nzm (75
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and
brakeshoes are seated.
(11) Top off brake fluid level if necessary. Use Mo-
par brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE J1703
and DOT 3 standards only.
CALIPER REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove front wheels.
(2) Remove caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 4).(3) Rotate caliper rearward by hand or with pry
tool (Fig. 5). Then rotate caliper and brakeshoes off
mounting ledges.
(4) Remove caliper hose fitting bolt and disconnect
front brake hose at caliper. Discard fitting bolt wash-
ers. They are not reusable and should be replaced.
(5) Remove caliper from vehicle.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brakeshoes from caliper.
(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
Fig. 11 Installing Inboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 12 Installing Outboard Brakeshoe
Fig. 13 Caliper Installation
Fig. 14 Caliper Mounting Bolt Dimensions
JBRAKES 5 - 27

ence) of piston and caliper boot groove (Fig. 24).
Grease serves as corrosion protection for these areas.
(8) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(9) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 25).
(10) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
CALIPER INSTALLATION
(1) Install brakeshoes in caliper (Figs. 11, 12).
(2) Connect brake hose fitting to caliper but do not
tighten fitting bolt completely at this time.Be sure
to use new washers on fitting bolt to avoid leaks
(Fig. 26).
(3) Install caliper. Position mounting notches at
lower end of brakeshoes on bottom mounting ledge(Fig. 13). Then rotate caliper over rotor and seat
notches at upper end of shoes on mounting ledge
(Fig. 13).
(4) Coat caliper mounting bolts with GE 661 or
Dow 111 silicone grease. Then install and tighten
bolts to 10-20 Nzm (7-15 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceed-
ing. If the bolts have a shank length greater than
67.6 mm (2.66 in.), they may contact the inboard
brakeshoe causing a partial apply condition. Refer
to Figure 14 for the required caliper bolt length.
(5) Position front brake hose clear of all chassis
components and tighten caliper fitting bolt to 31 Nzm
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Be sure the brake hose is not twisted or
kinked at any point. Also be sure the hose is clear
of all steering and suspension components. Loosen
and reposition the hose if necessary.
(6) Install wheels. Tighten wheel lug nuts to 109-
150 Nzm (80-110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system. Refer to proce-
dures in Service Adjustments section.
ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel.
(2) Remove caliper.
(3) Remove retainers securing rotor to hub studs
(Fig. 27).
(4) Remove rotor from hub (Fig. 27).
(5) If rotor shield requires service, remove front
hub and bearing assembly.
ROTOR INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on hub.
(2) Install caliper.
Fig. 24 Typical Caliper/Piston Areas To Be Lightly
Coated With Silicone Grease
Fig. 25 Seating Caliper Piston Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 26 Front Brake Hose And Fitting Components
5 - 30 BRAKESJ

(9) Coat cylinder bore, pistons, cups and expander
with brake fluid and reassemble cylinder compo-
nents. Be sure piston cup lips face expander.
WHEEL CYLINDER INSTALLATION
(1) Apply small bead of silicone sealer around cyl-
inder mounting surface of support plate.
(2) Start brakeline in wheel cylinder fitting by
hand.
(3) Align and seat wheel cylinder on support plate
(Fig. 10).
(4) Install cylinder mounting bolts (Fig. 10).
Tighten bolts to 10 Nzm (90 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Tighten brakeline fitting to 15 Nzm (132 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) Install brakeshoes. Adjust shoes to drum with
brake gauge.
(7) Install brake drums and lower vehicle.
(8) Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.
SUPPORT PLATE REPLACEMENT
The support plate should cleaned and inspected
whenever the drum brake components are being ser-
viced.
Check the support plate for wear, or rust through
at the contact pads and replace the plate if neces-
sary. Be sure to lubricate the contact pads with Mo-
par multi-mileage grease before shoe installation.
Lubrication will avoid noisy operation and shoe bind.
(1) Raise vehicle and remove wheel/tire assembly.(2) Remove brake drum, brakeshoes, and wheel
cylinder.
(3) Remove axle shaft as described in Group 3.
(4) Remove support plate attaching nuts and re-
move support plate.
(5) Clean axle tube flange. If gasket is not used on
flange, apply thin bead of silicone adhesive/sealer to
flange.
(6) Position new support plate on axle tube flange.
(7) Apply Mopar Lock N9Seal, or Loctite 242 to
support plate attaching nuts. Then install and
tighten nuts.
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar multi-mileage grease
to contact pads of new support plate.
(9) Install wheel cylinder and brakeshoes.
(10) Adjust brakeshoes to drums. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(11) Bleed brakes.
(12) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(13) Adjust parking brake cable tensioner. Refer to
procedure in Parking Brake section.
(14) Lower vehicle and verify proper service brake
and parking brake operation.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING
Brake drums can be machined to restore the brak-
ing surface. Use a brake lathe to clean up light scor-
ing and wear.
CAUTION: Never refinish a brake drum if machining
will cause the drum to exceed maximum allowable
brake surface diameter.
Brake drums that are warped, distorted, or se-
verely tapered should be replaced. Do not refinish
drums exhibiting these conditions. Brake drums that
are heat checked or have hard spots should also be
replaced.
If the brake drums are heavily coated with rust,
clean and inspect them carefully. Rust damage on
high mileage drums can be severe enough to require
replacement.
The maximum allowable diameter for the drum
braking surface is usually indicated on the drum
outer face (Fig. 11).
WHEEL NUT TIGHTENING
The wheel attaching lug nuts must be tightened
properly to ensure efficient brake operation. Over-
tightening the nuts or tightening them in the wrong
sequence can cause distortion of the brake rotors and
drums.
Impact wrenches are not recommended for tighten-
ing wheel nuts. A torque wrench should be used for
this purpose.
A light coat of LPS Anti-Corrosion spray lube
around the hub face and on the studs will cut down
on rust/corrosion formation.
Fig. 9 Wheel Cylinder (10-Inch Brake)
Fig. 10 Wheel Cylinder Mounting
JBRAKES 5 - 37