1993 FORD MONDEO length

(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or
worn. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound
to the sensor’s threads, to prevent them from
welding themselves to the downpipe in
service. Refit the sensor, tightening it to its
specified torque wrench setting; a slotted
socket will be required to do this (see
illustration). Reconnect the wiring and refit
the connector plug.
General description
1This system is fitted to minimise the escape
of unburned hydrocarbons into the
atmosphere. The fuel tank filler cap is sealed,
and a charcoal canister is mounted
underneath the tank, to collect and store
petrol vapours generated in the tank when the
vehicle is parked. When the engine is running,
the vapours are cleared from the canister
(under the control of the ECU via the canister-
purge solenoid valve) into the inlet tract, to be
burned by the engine during normal
combustion - see illustration 2.1A.
2To ensure that the engine runs correctly
when it is cold and/or idling, and to protect
the catalytic converter from the effects of an
over-rich mixture, the canister-purge solenoid
valve is not opened by the ECU until the
engine is fully warmed-up and running under
part-load; the solenoid valve is then switched
on and off, to allow the stored vapour to pass
into the inlet.
Checking
3Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can
be caused by an inoperative canister-purge
solenoid valve, a damaged canister, split or
cracked hoses, or hoses connected to the
wrong fittings. Check the fuel filler cap for a
damaged or deformed gasket.
4Fuel loss or fuel odour can be caused by
liquid fuel leaking from fuel lines, a cracked or
damaged canister, an inoperative canister-purge solenoid valve, and disconnected,
misrouted, kinked or damaged vapour or
control hoses.
5Inspect each hose attached to the canister
for kinks, leaks and cracks along its entire
length. Repair or renew as necessary.
6Inspect the canister. If it is cracked or
damaged, renew it. Look for fuel leaking from
the bottom of the canister. If fuel is leaking,
renew the canister, and check the hoses and
hose routing.
7If the canister-purge solenoid valve is
thought to be faulty, unplug its electrical
connector and disconnect its vacuum hoses.
Connect a battery directly across the valve
terminals. Check that air can flow through the
valve passages when the solenoid is thus
energised, and that nothing can pass when the
solenoid is not energised. Alternatively,
connect an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance across the solenoid terminals, and
compare this reading to the one listed in the
Specifications Section at the beginning of this
Chapter. Renew the solenoid valve if it is faulty.
8Further testing should be left to a dealer
service department.
Component renewal
Charcoal canister-purge solenoid
valve
9If better access is required, remove the
plenum chamber (see Chapter 4). Disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead - see Sec-
tion 1 of Chapter 5.10Unplug the valve’s electrical connector
(see illustration). Unclip the valve from the
bulkhead, then disconnect its vacuum hoses
and withdraw it.
11Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Charcoal canister - Saloon and
Hatchback models
Note:Read through this procedure carefully
before starting work, and ensure that the
equipment is available that is required to carry
it out safely and with minimum risk of damage,
and to align the crossmember with sufficient
accuracy on reassembly.
12Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
13Ensure that the rear of the vehicle’s body
is supported securely on axle stands, then
support the rear suspension crossmember
with a jack. Remove the roadwheels and
unscrew the rear suspension strut top
mounting bolts (two per side - see Chapter
10).
14Use white paint or similar (do not use a
sharp-pointed scriber, which might break the
underbody protective coating and cause
rusting) to mark the exact relationship of the
crossmember to the underbody. Unscrew the
four mounting bolts (see illustration). Lower
the crossmember approximately 3 inches (75
mm) on the jack, and support it securely.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the vehicle
when it is supported only by a
jack!
5 EVAPorative emissions control
(EVAP) system -
general information, checking
and component renewal
6•14 Emissions control systems
4.64 . . . slotted socket will be required to
tighten sensor with a torque wrench5.10 Charcoal canister-purge solenoid
valve (arrowed) is clipped to bulkhead
behind engine5.14 Support rear suspension
crossmember on jack, and remove
mounting bolts (arrowed) . . .
5.15 . . . lower crossmember by 3 inches,
and unscrew charcoal canister assembly
rear retaining bolts (arrowed) . . .5.16 . . . unplug hoses (arrowed) from
canister assembly . . .
procarmanuals.com

General information
1This system consists of the pulse-air
solenoid valve, the pulse-air valve itself,
contained in the filter housing, and the piping
- see illustration 2.1A. It injects filtered air
directly into the exhaust ports, using the
pressure variations in the exhaust gases to
draw air through from the filter housing; air will
flow into the exhaust only when its pressure is
below atmospheric. The pulse-air valve can
allow gases to flow only one way, so there is
no risk of hot exhaust gases flowing back into
the filter.
2The system’s primary function is raise
exhaust gas temperatures on start-up, thus
reducing the amount of time taken for the
oxygen sensor and catalytic converter to
reach operating temperature. Until this
happens, the system reduces emission of
unburned hydrocarbon particles (HC) and
carbon monoxide (CO) by ensuring that a
considerable proportion of these substances
remaining in the exhaust gases after
combustion are burned up, either in the
manifold itself or in the catalytic converter.
3To ensure that the system does not upset
the smooth running of the engine under
normal driving conditions, it is linked by the
pulse-air solenoid valve to the ECU, so that it
only functions during engine warm-up, when
the oxygen sensor is not influencing the
fuel/air mixture ratio.
Checking
4Poor idle, stalling, backfiring and poor
driveability can be caused by a fault in the
system.
5Inspect the vacuum pipe/hose connected
between the filter housing and the solenoid
valve for kinks, leaks and cracks along its
entire length. Repair or renew as necessary.
6Inspect the filter housing and piping. If
either is cracked or damaged, renew it.7If the pulse-air solenoid valve is thought to
be faulty, unplug its electrical connector and
disconnect its vacuum hoses. Connect a
battery directly across the valve terminals,
and check that air can flow through the valve
passages when the solenoid is thus
energised, and that nothing can pass when
the solenoid is not energised. Alternatively,
connect an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance across the valve terminals, and
compare this reading to the one listed in the
Specifications Section at the beginning of this
Chapter. Renew the solenoid valve if it is
faulty.
8Further testing should be left to a dealer
service department.
Component renewal
Pulse-air solenoid valve
Note:This component can be identified by its
smaller top and its clip fastening. Do not
confuse it with the adjacent EGR solenoid
valve, especially when reconnecting vacuum
hoses.
9Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
10Remove the air mass meter and resonator
- refer to Chapter 4. If better access is
required, remove the plenum chamber also
(see illustration).
11Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
electrical connector, then use a small
screwdriver to release the clip securing the
valve to the bulkhead mounting bracket.Withdraw the valve, then label and disconnect
the two vacuum hoses.
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the hoses are correctly
reconnected.
Pulse-air filter housing
Note:This component, and those around it,
will be very hot when the engine is running.
Always allow the engine to cool down fully
before starting work, to prevent the possibility
of burns.
13Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it securely on axle stands. Disconnect the
vacuum hose from the base of the filter
housing (see illustration).
14Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
15Unbolt the resonator support bracket
from the engine compartment front
crossmember, slacken the two clamp screws
securing the resonator to the air mass meter
and plenum chamber hoses, then swing the
resonator up clear of the thermostat housing
(see Chapter 4).
16Remove the screws securing the filter
housing to the piping, unscrew the mounting
bolt, then withdraw the housing (see
illustration).
17To dismantle the filter housing, undo the
four screws and separate the top from the
base of the housing; extract the foam filter,
and clean it in a suitable solvent (see
illustrations). If any of the housing’s
7 Pulse-air system -
general information
Emissions control systems 6•17
6
7.17A Remove four screws to release filter
housing top from base . . .7.17B . . .and withdraw foam filter for
cleaning, if required - note valve in base of
housing
7.10 Pulse-air solenoid valve (arrowed) is
located on bulkhead mounting bracket. It
can be identified by its smaller top and its
clip fastening - do not confuse it with the
adjacent EGR solenoid valve7.13 Disconnect vacuum hose from base
of pulse-air filter housing . . .7.16 . . . undo screws “A” to disconnect
piping from housing, and mounting
bolt “B” to release housing
procarmanuals.com

Since most of the procedures dealt with in
this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle
and working underneath it, a good pair of axle
stands will be needed. A hydraulic trolley jack
is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle,
and it can also be used to support certain
components during removal and refitting
operations.
Warning: Never, under any
circumstances, rely on a jack to
support the vehicle while working
beneath it. When jacking up the vehicle, do
not lift or support it beneath the front or
rear subframes.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake. Remove the wheel
cover from the relevant front wheel, and
loosen (but do not remove) the driveshaft/hub
nut. This nut is very tight.
2Loosen the front wheel nuts, jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front wheel.
3Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
4Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) as
described in Chapter 9.
5Remove the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9, but do not disconnect
the flexible hose from the caliper. Suspend
the caliper from a suitable point under the
wheel arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
6Unscrew and remove the driveshaft/hub
nut. Note that the nut is of special laminated
design, and should only be re-used a
maximum of 5 times. (It is a good idea to file a
small notch on the nut every time it is
removed.) Obtain a new nut if necessary.
7Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open using a large flat-
bladed tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seal during the separation procedure.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut. If necessary, tap the knuckle
downwards with a soft-headed mallet to
separate the two components. Support the
knuckle on an axle stand.
9Pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly
from the driveshaft splines. If it is tight,
connect a universal puller to the hub flange,
and withdraw it from the driveshaft. When the
driveshaft is free, support it on an axle stand,
or suspend it from a suitable point under thewheel arch, making sure that the inner
constant velocity joint is not turned through
more than 18°. (Damage may occur if the joint
is turned through too great an angle.)
Refitting
10Lift the steering knuckle and hub
assembly onto the driveshaft splines, and
support the assembly on an axle stand.
11Locate the assembly on the front
suspension strut. Insert the pinch-bolt with its
head facing forwards. Fit the nut and tighten it
to the specified torque.
12Refit the lower arm balljoint to the knuckle
assembly, and insert the clamp bolt with its
head facing forwards. Refit the nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
13Refit the driveshaft/hub nut, and tighten it
moderately at this stage. Final tightening of
the nut is made with the vehicle lowered to the
ground.
14Refit the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9.
15Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
16Reconnect the track rod end balljoint to
the steering arm, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
17Refit the front wheel, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts
to the specified torque.
18Tighten the driveshaft/hub nut to the
specified torque, and refit the wheel cover.
Inspection
1The front hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied already greased.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
3Grip the front wheel at top and bottom, and
attempt to rock it. If excessive movement is
noted, it may be that the hub bearings are
worn. Do not confuse wear in the driveshaft
outer joint or front suspension lower arm
balljoint with wear in the bearings. Hub
bearing wear will show up as roughness or
vibration when the wheel is spun; it will also
be noticeable as a rumbling or growling noise
when driving.
Renewal
4Remove the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
5The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive outthe hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter (see illustration).
6Part of the inner race will remain on the hub,
and this should be removed using a puller.
7Note that if this procedure is being used to
renew the hub only (ie it is not intended to
renew the bearings), then it is important to
check the condition of the bearing balls and
races, to see if they are fit for re-use. It is
difficult to be sure that no damage has
occurred, especially if makeshift methods
have been used during removal; in practice, it
is probably false economy not to renew the
bearings in any case, having got this far.
8Using circlip pliers, extract the inner and
outer circlips securing the hub bearing in the
steering knuckle (see illustration).
9Press or drive out the bearing, using a
length of metal tubing of diameter slightly less
than the bearing outer race.
10Clean the bearing seating faces in the
steering knuckle.
3 Front hub and bearings -
inspection and renewal
2 Steering knuckle and hub
assembly -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
3.5 Front hub and bearing
1 Hub 4 Stub axle
2 Double-row ball-bearing 5 Steering knuckle
3 Circlips 6 ABS sensor
3.8 Front wheel bearing retaining circlips
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

11Locate one of the circlips in the outer
groove of the knuckle.
12Press or drive the new bearing into the
knuckle until it contacts the circlip, using a
length of metal tube of diameter slightly less
than the outer race. Do not apply any
pressure to the inner race.
13Locate the remaining circlip in the inner
groove of the knuckle.
14Support the inner race on a length of
metal tube, then press or drive the hub fully
into the bearing.
15Refit the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front wheel.
2Unbolt the brake hose support bracket from
the front of the suspension strut (see
illustration).
3Remove the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9, but do not disconnect the flexible
hydraulic hose from the caliper. Suspend the
caliper from a suitable point under the wheel
arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
4Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckleusing a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
5Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) from
the steering knuckle, as described in Chapter 9.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint. Disconnect
the gaiter from the CV joint housing.
7Remove the nut and disconnect the anti-roll
bar link from the strut. Note that, on models
fitted with ABS, the ABS wheel sensor wiring
support bracket is located beneath the nut
(see illustration).
8Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
9Where applicable, disconnect the adaptive
damping wiring multi-plug at the strut, and
unclip the wire.
10Support the strut and steering knuckle on
an axle stand. Working inside the engine
compartment, remove the strut cap (if fitted).
Unscrew and remove the front suspension
strut upper mounting nut, holding the piston
rod stationary with an 8 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
11Lower the suspension strut, together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle, from
under the wheel arch, withdrawing the tripod
on the inner end of the driveshaft from the CV
joint housing.12Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut (see illustrations).
Refitting
13With the clamp prised open, locate the
front suspension strut on the steering knuckle,
and refit the pinch-bolt with its head facing
forwards. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque.
14Locate the suspension strut (together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle) in its
upper mounting, and loosely screw on the
nut.
15Locate the tripod on the inner end of the
driveshaft in the CV joint housing, then
manipulate the gaiter onto the housing, and fit
a new clip.
16Where applicable, reconnect the adaptive
damping multi-plug, and fit the wire in the clip.
17Locate the lower arm balljoint fully in the
bottom of the steering knuckle. Refit the
clamp bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque.
18Reconnect the anti-roll bar link to the
strut, and tighten the nut to the specified
torque. On models fitted with ABS, do not
forget to locate the sensor wiring support
bracket beneath the nut.
19Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
20Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
21Refit the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9.
22Refit the brake hose support bracket to
the strut, and tighten the bolt.
23Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
24Tighten the suspension strut upper
mounting nut to the specified torque, while
4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
4.2 Removing the brake hose support
bracket from the front of the front
suspension strut4.7 Removing the anti-roll bar link and
ABS sensor wiring bracket4.10 Front suspension strut upper
mounting nut
4.12A Steering knuckle-to-strut pinch-bolt4.12B Releasing the knuckle from the strut
procarmanuals.com

spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.
(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted
to the piston rod seat.
(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.5If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damageto the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.
Overhaul
9Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.
7 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
6 Front anti-roll bar and links -
removal and refitting
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
6.2A Unscrew the nut . . .6.2B . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar
link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring
support bracket
7.3 One of the nuts and bolts securing the
lower arm to the subframe7.7A Unscrew the lower arm balljoint
clamp bolt . . .7.7B . . . and disconnect the balljoint from
the knuckle
procarmanuals.com

door, then drive the hinge pins down through
the hinges using a small drift (see
illustrations).
6Carefully withdraw the door from the
hinges.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but check that the door lock
passes over the striker centrally. If necessary,
re-position the striker.
Removal
1Where electric mirrors are fitted, disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5,
Section 1).
2Prise off the cap, unscrew the screw, and
remove the quarter bezel from the front of the
window opening.
3On manual mirrors, detach the adjustment
lever.
4On electric mirrors, disconnect the wiring
multi-plug (see illustration).
5On both types of mirror, use a Torx key to
unscrew the mirror mounting screws, then
withdraw the mirror from the outside of the
door (see illustrations). Recover the gasket.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Using a length of strong thin cord or fishing
line, break the adhesive bond between the
base of the mirror and the glass. Have an
assistant support and remove the mirror as it
is released.
2If the original mirror is to be refitted,
thoroughly clean its base with methylated
spirit and a lint-free cloth. Allow a period of
one minute for the spirit to evaporate. Clean
the windscreen black patch in a similar
manner.
Refitting
3During the installation of the mirror, it is
important that the mirror base, windscreen
black patch and the adhesive patch are not
touched or contaminated in any way,
otherwise poor adhesion will result.
4Prior to fitting the mirror, the vehicle should
have been at an ambient temperature of at
least 20ºC.
5With the contact surfaces thoroughly
cleaned, remove the protective tape from one
side of the adhesive patch, and press it firmly
into contact with the mirror base.
6If fitting the mirror to a new windscreen, the
protective tape must also be removed from
the windscreen black patch.
7Using a hairdryer or a hot air gun, warm themirror base and the adhesive patch for about
30 seconds to a temperature of 50 to 70ºC.
Peel back the protective tape from the other
side of the adhesive patch on the mirror base.
Align the mirror base and the windscreen
patch, and press the mirror firmly into
position. Hold the base of the mirror firmly
against the windscreen for a minimum period
of two minutes, to ensure full adhesion.
8Wait at least thirty minutes before adjusting
the mirror position.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1), and open the boot lid.
2Where applicable, pull off the trim covering,
and release the wiring on the hinge arm.
3Where fitted, remove the trim from inside
the boot lid.
4Disconnect the wiring at the connectors
visible through the boot lid inner skin aperture.
5Attach a length of strong cord to the end of
the wires in the aperture, to act as an aid to
guiding the wiring through the lid when it is
refitted.
6Release the cable guide rubber grommet,
and withdraw the wiring loom through it. Untie
the cord, and leave it in the boot lid.
7Mark the position of the hinge arms with a
pencil.
8Place rags beneath each corner of the boot
lid, to prevent damage to the paintwork.
9With the help of an assistant, unscrew the
mounting bolts and lift the boot lid from the
car.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Check that the boot lid is correctly
aligned with the surrounding bodywork, with
an equal clearance around its edge.
Adjustment is made by loosening the hinge
bolts, and moving the boot lid within the
elongated mounting holes. Check that the
lock enters the striker centrally when the boot
lid is closed.
18 Boot lid - removal and refitting
17 Interior mirror -
removal and refitting
16 Exterior mirror and glass-
removal and refitting
11•14 Bodywork and fittings
15.5A . . . then drive out the hinge pins . . .15.5B . . . and remove them16.4 Disconnecting the wiring multi-plug
from an electric exterior mirror
16.5A Unscrew the screws . . .16.5B . . . and withdraw the mirror
procarmanuals.com

14Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock (see illustration).
15Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and withdraw the lock for
access to the cables (see illustration).
16Disconnect both the inner and outer
cables from the lock bracket (see
illustration).
17Prise open the plastic clip, and remove
the central locking control rod.
18Withdraw the lock assembly.
Lock (Estate)
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
20Open the tailgate. Undo the screws and
remove the inner trim.
21Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and carefully withdraw the
lock (see illustration).
22Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
23Disconnect the barrel operating rod, and
remove the lock.
24If necessary, the lock striker assembly
may be removed by disconnecting the release
cable and unscrewing the mounting bolts (see
illustration).
Refitting
Lock barrel and lock - all models
25Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Testing
1The central locking module incorporates a
service-test mode, which is activated by
operating one of the lock position switches 8
times within 10 seconds. A buzzer will sound,
to indicate that the service-test mode is
operating, and to indicate that no faults have
been found in the system. If a fault has been
found, the system should be checked by a
Ford dealer or electrical specialist. The central
locking module also incorporates the alarm
system module.
Removal
Central locking/alarm module
2To remove the module, first remove the
lower right-hand facia panel (right-hand-drive
models) or the glovebox (left-hand-drive
models).
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
4Unscrew the mounting bolts, and remove
the module from the bracket beneath the
facia.
5Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and
withdraw the module from inside the vehicle.6Note that a different module is used for
models without an anti-theft alarm.
Central locking set/reset switch
7This procedure is covered in Section 14,
under front door handle removal.
Central locking door-ajar switch
8This procedure is covered in Section 14,
under front door lock motor removal.
Refitting
Central locking/alarm module
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Central locking set/reset switch
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Central locking door-ajar switch
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
1The windscreen and rear window on all
models are bonded in place with special
mastic, as are the rear side windows on
Estate models. Special tools are required to
cut free the old units and fit replacements;
special cleaning solutions and primer are also
required. It is therefore recommended that
this work is entrusted to a Ford dealer or
windscreen replacement specialist.
2Note that the windscreen contributes
towards the structural strength of the vehicle
as a whole, so it is important that it is fitted
correctly.
Removal
1Insert a length of strong cord (fishing line is
ideal) behind the moulding or emblem
concerned. With a sawing action, break the
25 Body side-trim mouldings
and adhesive emblems -
removal and refitting
24 Windscreen and fixed
windows - removal and refitting
23 Central locking system
components-
testing, removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•17
11
22.21 Tailgate lock - Estate models22.24 Lock striker assembly - Estate
models
22.14 Removing the door-ajar sensor from
the lock22.15 Removing a lock mounting screw22.16 Disconnecting the cables from the
lock
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adhesive bond between the moulding or
emblem and the panel (see illustration).
2Thoroughly clean all traces of adhesive
from the panel using
methylated spirit, and allow the location to
dry.
Refitting
3Peel back the protective paper from the
rear face of the new moulding or emblem.
Carefully fit it into position on the panel
concerned, but take care not to touch the
adhesive. When in position, apply hand
pressure to the moulding/emblem for a short
period, to ensure maximum adhesion to the
panel.1The sunroof should operate freely, without
sticking or binding, as it is opened and
closed. When in the closed position, check
that the panel is flush with the surrounding
roof panel.
2If adjustment is required, open the sun
blind, but leave the glass panel shut. Unscrew
and remove the three lower frame-to-glass
panel retaining screws. Slide the lower frame
back into the roof.
3Loosen the central and front securing
screws. Adjust the glass roof panel so that it is
flush at its front edge with the roof panel, then
retighten the securing screws.
4Pull the lower frame forwards, and insert
and tighten its retaining screws to complete.
Removal
Front seat
1Release the seat belt, and slide the seat
fully forwards.
2Using a Torx key, undo the screws and
remove the rear mounting trims, then unscrew
the rear mounting bolts (see illustrations).
3Slide the seat fully rearwards.
4Where electric seats are fitted, disconnectthe battery negative (earth) lead (Chapter 5,
Section 1). Disconnect the seat wiring multi-
plugs (see illustration).
5Unscrew the front mounting bolts, and
remove the seat from the vehicle (see
illustration).
Rear seat cushion
6Fold the rear seat cushion forwards. (Note
that, on some models, the seat cushion is
held in place by screws which must be
removed first.) Using a Torx key, unscrew and
remove the mounting bolts from the hinges on
each side (see illustration).
7Withdraw the seat cushion from the vehicle.
Rear seat backrest
8Fold the rear seat cushion and both
backrests forwards.
9Unclip the backrest rear trims, where fitted,
and raise them.
10Using a Torx key, unscrew the mounting
bolts (see illustration).
11Withdraw the backrest from inside the
vehicle.
Rear seat side bolster
12Fold the rear seat backrest forwards.
13On low-series models, remove the screw
and pull the bolster forwards to disengage the
clips. On high-series models, simply pull the
bolster upwards to disengage the clips.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the mounting bolts to
the specified torque.
27 Seats - removal and refitting
26 Sunroof - general
information and adjustment
11•18 Bodywork and fittings
25.1 Using a length of cord to remove the
emblem from the radiator grille27.2A Unscrew the Torx-headed
screws . . .27.2B . . . and remove the mounting trims
for access to the front seat rear mounting
bolts
27.5 Front seat front mounting bolt
27.4 Disconnecting an electric seat multi-
plug
27.6 Rear seat cushion hinge bolt27.10 Rear seat backrest mounting bolts
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