1993 FORD MONDEO engine oil

the camshaft aligning tool will slip into place;
take care not to disturb the relationship of the
pulley to the timing belt. Without disturbing
the pulley’s new position on the camshaft,
tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration). Remove the
camshaft aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft
through two further turns clockwise and refit
the tool to check that it now fits as it should.
26When the timing belt has been settled at
its correct tension, and the camshaft aligning
tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley
notches are exactly aligned, tighten the
tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting (see illustration). Fitting the forked
holding tool to the spokes of each pulley in
turn, check that the pulley bolts are tightened
to their specified torque wrench setting.
Remove the camshaft aligning tool, rotate the
crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final
check that it fits as it should.
27The remainder of the reassembly
procedure is the reverse of removal, noting
the following points:
(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.
(b) When reassembling the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting,
renew the self-locking nuts, and do not
allow the mounting to twist as the middle
two of the bracket’s six nuts are
tightened.
Tensioner
Note:If the tensioner is being removed for the
first time since the vehicle left the factory, a
tensioner spring and retaining pin must be
obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1While it is possible to reach the tensioner
once the timing belt upper and middle covers
only have been removed (see Section 9), the
whole procedure outlined below must be
followed, to ensure that the valve timing is
correctly reset once the belt’s tension has
been disturbed.
2Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 14.
3Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw
the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted
(see illustration). Check the tensioner and
spring as described in paragraph 16 of
Section 10.
4On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the
first time, screw the timing belt tensioner
spring retaining pin into the cylinder head,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the
tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,
engaging its backplate on the locating peg.
5Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to
rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as
possible against spring tension, then tighten
the bolt to secure the tensioner.
6Reassemble, checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, as described in paragraphs 22 to
27 of Section 10.
Camshaft and crankshaft toothed
pulleys
7While it may be possible to remove any of
these pulleys once their respective covers
have been removed, the complete timing belt
removal/refitting procedure (see Section 10)
must be followed, to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly reset once the belt’s
tension has been disturbed.8With the timing belt removed, the camshaft
toothed pulleys can be detached once their
retaining bolts have been unscrewed as
described in paragraphs 18 and 21 of Section
10. The crankshaft toothed pulley can be
pulled off the end of the crankshaft once the
crankshaft (grooved) pulley and the timing
belt have been removed. Note the “FRONT”
marking identifying the pulley’s outboard
face, and the thrustwasher behind it; note
which way round the thrustwasher is fitted
(see illustration). Note the pulley-locating
Woodruff key; if this is loose, it should be
removed for safe storage with the pulley.
9Check the pulleys as described in
paragraph 16 of Section 10.
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Timing belt guide pulleys
11Remove the timing belt covers (see
Section 9).
12Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check
their condition as described in paragraph 16
of Section 10.
13Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).
Note:While it is possible to reach either oil
seal, once the respective toothed pulley has
been removed (see Section 11) to allow the
seal to be prised out, this procedure is not
recommended. Not only are the seals very
soft, making this difficult to do without risk of
damage to the seal housing, but it would be
very difficult to ensure that the valve timing
and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed,
are correctly reset. Owners are advised to
follow the whole procedure outlined below.
1Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 14.
Note:If the timing belt is found to be
contaminated by oil, remove it completely as
described, then renew the oil seal (see below).
Wash down the engine timing belt area and all
12 Camshaft oil seals - renewal
11 Timing belt tensioner and
toothed pulleys - removal,
inspection and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•13
2A
11.3 Removing timing belt tensioner11.8 Note “FRONT” marking on outside
face of crankshaft toothed pulley - note
which way round thrustwasher behind is
fitted11.13 Tighten timing belt guide pulley
bolts to specified torque settings on
refitting
10.26 When setting is correct, tighten
tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench
setting
procarmanuals.com

related components, to remove all traces of
oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.
2If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the
toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too
sharply; use the fingers only to handle the
belt. Do notrotate the crankshaft until the
timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and
secure it so that it is clear of the working area
and cannot slip off the remaining toothed
pulley.
3Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw the
pulley (see Section 11).
4Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing
cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.
Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
5To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt
(10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a
washer, to draw the seal into place when the
camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a
substitute can be made using a suitable
socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips
and periphery to ease installation, and draw
the seal into place until it is flush with the
housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the
bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the
cap bolts as described in Section 13.
6For most owners, the simplest answer will
be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it on to
the camshaft (until it is flush with thehousing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,
using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as
described in Section 13 (see illustration).
Take care to ensure that the seal remains
absolutely square in its housing, and is not
distorted as the cap is tightened down.
7Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tightening
the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing
belt back onto the pulley (refer to para-
graphs 18 and 21 of Section 10) and tighten
the bolt securely.
8The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 22
to 27 of Section 10.
Removal
1Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 14.
2Either remove the timing belt completely
(Section 10, paragraphs 15 and 16) or slip it
off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking care
not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only
to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure
it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is
refitted.3Unfasten the pulley bolts as described in
Section 10, paragraphs 18 and 21, and
withdraw the pulleys; while both are the same
and could be interchanged, it is good working
practice to mark them so that each is refitted
only to its original location (see illustration).
4Working in the sequence shown, slacken
progressively, by half a turn at a time, the
camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).
Work only as described, to release gradually
and evenly the pressure of the valve springs
on the caps.
5Withdraw the caps, noting their markings
and the presence of the locating dowels, then
remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil
seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by
the reference lobe for the camshaft position
sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark
the camshafts (see illustrations).
6Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and
number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert
it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its
respective container, which should then be
filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations).
Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or
the rate of wear will be much increased. Do
not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a
long time to refill on restarting the engine,
resulting in incorrect valve clearances.
Inspection
7With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets
removed, check each for signs of obvious
13 Camshafts and hydraulic
tappets - removal,
inspection and refitting
2A•14 In-car engine repair procedures
12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt
to install camshaft oil seal12.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted
when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted13.3 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened
13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening
sequence
Note:View from front of vehicle, showing
bearing cap numbers
13.5A Note locating dowels when
removing camshaft bearing caps13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe for
camshaft position sensor
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wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and
renew if necessary.
8Measure the outside diameter of each
tappet (see illustration)- take measurements
at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a
second set at right-angles to the first; if any
measurement is significantly different from
the others, the tappet is tapered or oval (as
applicable) and must be renewed. If the
necessary equipment is available, measure
the inside diameter of the corresponding
cylinder head bore. Compare the
measurements obtained to those given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the
tappets or the cylinder head bores are
excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new
cylinder head will be required.
9If the engine’s valve components have
sounded noisy, particularly if the noise
persists after initial start-up from cold, there is
reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet.
Only a good mechanic experienced in these
engines can tell whether the noise level is
typical, or if renewal of one or more of the
tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are
diagnosed, and the engine’s service history is
unknown, it is always worth trying the effect
of renewing the engine oil and filter (see
Chapter 1), using onlygood-quality engine oil
of the recommended viscosity and
specification, before going to the expense of
renewing any of the tappets - refer also to the
advice in Section 1 of this Chapter.10Visually examine the camshaft lobes for
score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to
rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue,
discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of
the hardened surface layer of each lobe (see
illustration). If any such signs are evident,
renew the component concerned.
11Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for
signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such
signs are evident, renew the component
concerned.
12Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of each journal at several points
(see illustration). If the diameter of any one
journal is less than the specified value, renew
the camshaft.
13To check the bearing journal running
clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use
a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to
clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit
the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand
of Plastigage across each journal (see
illustration). Tighten the bearing cap bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting (do not
rotate the camshafts), then remove the
bearing caps and use the scale provided to
measure the width of the compressed strands
(see illustration). Scrape off the Plastigage
with your fingernail or the edge of a credit
card - don’t scratch or nick the journals or
bearing caps.
14If the running clearance of any bearing isfound to be worn to beyond the specified
service limits, fit a new camshaft and repeat
the check; if the clearance is still excessive,
the cylinder head must be renewed.
15To check camshaft endfloat, remove the
hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces
carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing
caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting, then
measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test
Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the
cylinder head so that its tip bears on the
camshaft right-hand end.
16Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,
zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•15
2A
13.12 Measure each journal diameter with
a micrometer - if any journal measures less
than the specified limit, renew the camshaft13.13A Lay a strip of Plastigage on each
camshaft journal13.13B Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to
determine the running clearance
13.6A Removing hydraulic tappets13.6B Hydraulic tappets must be stored as
described in text13.8 Use a micrometer to measure
diameter of hydraulic tappets
13.10 Check the cam lobes for pitting,
wear and score marks - if scoring is
excessive, as is the case here, renew the
camshaft
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away from the gauge, and note the gauge
reading. If the endfloat measured is found to
be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit
a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the
clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head
must be renewed.
Refitting
17On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinder
head hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets
(see illustration). Note that if new tappets are
being fitted, they must be charged with clean
engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the
tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that each
tappet is refitted to its original bore, and is the
correct way up. Some care will be required to
enter the tappets squarely into their bores.
18Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes (see illustration). Ensuring that each
camshaft is in its original location, refit the
camshafts, locating each so that the slot in its
left-hand end is approximately parallel to, and
just above, the cylinder head mating surface
(see illustration).
19Ensure that the locating dowels are
pressed firmly into their recesses, and check
that all mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin film
of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Loctite
518) to the mating surfaces of eachcamshaft’s right-hand bearing cap (see
illustration). Referring to paragraph 6 of
Section 12, some owners may wish to fit the
new camshaft oil seals at this stage.
20All camshaft bearing caps have a single-
digit identifying number etched on them (see
illustration). The exhaust camshaft’s bearing
caps are numbered in sequence 0 (right-hand
cap) to 4 (left-hand cap), the inlet’s 5 (right-
hand cap) to 9 (left-hand cap); see illustration
13.21B for details. Each cap is to be fitted so
that its numbered side faces outwards, to the
front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet).
21Ensuring that each cap is kept square to
the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and
working in the sequence shown, tighten the
camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one
turn at a time, until each cap touches the
cylinder head (see illustrations). Next, go
round again in the same sequence, tightening
the bolts to the first stage torque wrench
setting specified, then once more, tightening
them to the second stage setting. Work only
as described, to impose gradually and evenly
the pressure of the valve springs on the caps.
Fit the camshaft aligning tool; it should slip
into place as described in paragraph 10 of
Section 10 (see illustration).
22Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that none
is left to find its way into any oilways. Follow
the sealant manufacturer’s instructions as to
the time needed for curing; usually, at least an
hour must be allowed between application of
the sealant and starting the engine.
2A•16 In-car engine repair procedures
13.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic
tappets13.18A Apply engine assembly lubricant or
molybdenum disulphide-based grease to
the cam lobes and journals before refitting
a camshaft
13.19 Apply sealant to mating surface of
camshaft right-hand bearing caps
13.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing
caps must be arranged as shown, and face
outwards
13.18B Use camshaft position sensor lobe
to identify inlet camshaft on refitting -
locate camshafts as described in text
13.21A Keep caps square to cylinder head
at all times when tightening down
13.21B Camshaft bearing cap tightening
sequence
Note:View from front of vehicle - locate
bearing caps according to etched numbers,
aligned as described in text
13.21C Fit camshaft aligning tool to set
TDC position . . .
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23If using Ford’s recommended procedure,
fit new oil seals to the camshafts as
described in paragraph 5 of Section 12.
24Using the marks and notes made on
dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to
its original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleys
to the camshafts, tightening the retaining
bolts loosely (see illustration). Slip the timing
belt back onto the pulleys (refer to para-
graph 21 of Section 10) and tighten the bolts
securely - use the forked holding tool
described in paragraph 18 of Section 10.
25The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 17
to 27 of Section 10.
Removal
Note:The following text assumes that the
cylinder head will be removed with both inlet
and exhaust manifolds attached; this
simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky
and heavy assembly to handle - an engine
hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of
injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate
components as the assembly is removed and
refitted. If it is wished first to remove the
manifolds, proceed as described in Sections
6 and 7 of this Chapter; amend the following
procedure accordingly.1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
3Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
loom connectors, earth straps and fuel lines
as part of the following procedure, always
label them clearly, so that they can be
correctly reassembled.
4Unplugging the two electrical connectors,
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head cover, remove
the complete air cleaner assembly with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
5Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
6Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4 -where fitted, disconnect also the cruise control
actuator cable (see Chapter 12). Secure the
cable(s) clear of the engine/transmission.
7Unbolt the power steering high-pressure
pipe from the cylinder head rear support
plate/engine lifting eye, and from the front
support plate/pump bracket. Releasing its
wire clip, unplug the power steering pressure
switch electrical connector, then unbolt the
earth lead from the cylinder head rear support
plate/engine lifting eye.
8Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration). Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
9Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
(a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
(b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end (see illustration).
(c) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
(d) Disconnect all vacuum hoses from the
Exhaust Gas Recirculation system
components - one from the EGR valve
and two from the EGR pipe. (Note that
these last two are of different sizes, as are
their pipe stubs, so that they can only be
connected the correct way round.)
10Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow the
upper part to be withdrawn. Either remove the
dipstick and tube, or swing them out of the way.
11Unscrew the single bolt securing the
pulse-air filter housing to the engine/
transmission front mounting bracket, then
disconnect its vacuum hose.
12Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
14 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•17
2A
14.9 Disconnect vacuum hoses (arrowed)
as described in text14.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses
(arrowed) from thermostat housing
13.24 . . . while camshaft toothed pulleys
are refitted14.8A Release wire clip to unplug engine
wiring loom connector from inlet manifold14.8B Unplug connectors (arrowed) to
disconnect ignition coil wiring
Masking tape and/or a touch-
up paint applicator work
well for marking items.
Take instant photos, or
sketch the locations of components
and brackets.
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14Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
16Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
17Unscrew the six nuts securing the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting
bracket, then withdraw the bracket. Unbolt
the auxiliary drivebelt’s idler pulley (see
illustration).
18Unbolt the cylinder head front and rear
support plates (see illustrations).
19Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 10 and 13); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
20Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 9).
21Working in the reverseof the sequence
shown in illustration 14.32C, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.22Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly (see illustration). Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.
Refitting
23The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care, as the soft aluminium alloy is
easily damaged. Also, make sure that the
carbon is not allowed to enter the oil and
water passages - this is particularly important
for the lubrication system, as carbon could
block the oil supply to any of the engine’s
components. Using adhesive tape and paper,
seal the water, oil and bolt holes in the
cylinder block. Clean all the pistons in the
same way.24Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
25If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part B of this
Chapter, Section 7, if necessary.
26Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
27Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from one edge point to the front of
the vehicle (see illustration).
28Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
29As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where
the locating dowels are fitted, as shown);
ensure that approximately 70 mm of stud
protrudes above the gasket.
30Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels (see illustration). Unscrew the guide
studs (if used) when the head is in place.
31Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do not
oiltheir threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
32Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
2A•18 In-car engine repair procedures
14.17 Unbolt auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley14 18A Remove cylinder head front . . .14.18B . . . and rear support plates
14.22 Using an engine hoist to lift off the
cylinder head complete with manifolds
14.27 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth)
“A” are at front and marking “B” is
upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket
on dowels “C”
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
procarmanuals.com

then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head
bolts in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note:Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must notbe re-
torqued.
33Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and pulleys (see
Sections 10, 11, 12 and 13, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the position described in
paragraph 8 of Section 10.
34Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 10.
35The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.
(b) When reassembling the
engine/transmission right-hand mounting,
renew the self-locking nuts, and do not
allow the mounting to twist as the middle
two of the bracket’s six nuts are
tightened.
(c) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the
engine oil.
(d) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil
or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
Removal
Note:To carry out this task with the
engine/transmission installed in the vehicle
requires the assistance of at least one person,
plus the equipment necessary to raise and
support the front of the vehicle (high enough
that the sump can be withdrawn from
underneath), and to lift and support the
complete engine/transmission unit 2 to 3 inches from its mountings while the vehicle
is raised. Precise details of the procedure will
depend on the equipment available - the
following is typical.
The full procedure outlined below must be
followed, so that the mating surfaces can be
cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-tight
joint on reassembly, and so that the sump
can be aligned correctly; depending on your
skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle.
Note that the sump gasket must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove
and discard the oil filter, so that it can be
renewed with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
4Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the radiator union and from the (heater)
coolant pipe. Unbolt the coolant pipe from
the sump; if they will prevent sump removal,
disconnect or release the coolant hoses from
the oil cooler unions (where fitted).
5Unscrew the two bolts securing the powersteering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
6Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor and, where
fitted, the oil level sensor wiring - unclip the
connectors to release the wiring where
necessary.
7Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, trace the fluid cooler lines from
the transmission to the radiator, and release
them from any clips etc, so that they have as
much movement as possible.
8Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
9Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4 for details).
10Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adaptor plate.
11Unplugging the two electrical connectors,
disconnecting the vacuum hose (where fitted)
and disconnecting the crankcase breather
hose from the cylinder head cover, remove
the complete air cleaner assembly with the air
mass meter, the resonator and the plenum
chamber (see Chapter 4).
12Take the weight of the engine/
transmission unit using the lifting eyes
provided on the cylinder head; bolt on
15 Sump - removal and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•19
2A
14.32B . . . and to third stage using angle
gauge14.32C Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
Note:View from rear of vehicle15.12 Equipment must be available to raise
and support engine/transmission unit while
vehicle is raised, to allow sump removal
14.30 Refitting cylinder head - note
fabricated guide studs (arrowed)14.32A Tightening cylinder head bolts (to
first and second stages) using torque
wrench . . .
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additional lifting eyes where required (see
illustration). Remove completely the
engine/transmission front mounting, unscrew
the rear mounting’s centre bolt, and unbolt
the left-hand mounting from the body.
Unscrew the six nuts securing the right-hand
mounting bracket, and withdraw the bracket.
13Being careful to watch the wiring, coolant
hoses, fluid cooler pipes or gearchange
linkage and transmission support rods (where
appropriate), and the radiator electric cooling
fan, to ensure that nothing is trapped,
stretched or damaged, lift the
engine/transmission unit by 2 to 3 inches and
support it securely.
14Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump
with the palm of the hand, then lower the
sump and withdraw it with the
engine/transmission lower adaptor plate; note
the presence of any shims between the sump
and transmission.
15Remove and discard the sump gasket;
this must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
16While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-up/
strainer pipe and to clean it (see Section 16).
Refitting
17On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a cleanrag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
18If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
(a) Check that the mating surfaces of the
sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.
(b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adaptor plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first (see
illustration).
(c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission
lower adaptor plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the
transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.(d) Without disturbing the position of the
sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
(e) Proceed to paragraph 20.
19If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:
(a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier (see illustration). Without
delay - the sump bolts must be fully
tightened within 10 to 20 minutes of
applying the sealant - offer up the sump
to the cylinder block/crankcase, and
insert the sump bolts, tightening them
lightly at first.
(b) Using a suitable straight edge to check
alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration). Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(c) Check again that both faces are flush
before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating
surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.
(d) If it is not possible to achieve exact
alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration).
20The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
(a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.
(b) Always renew any self-locking nuts
disturbed on removal.
(c) Lower the engine/transmission unit into
place, and reassemble the rear, left-hand
2A•20 In-car engine repair procedures
15.17 Ensure gasket is located correctly in
sump groove15.18 Engine/transmission lower adaptor
plate (arrowed) must be refitted with sump15.19A Apply sealant (arrowed) as
directed when refitting sump
15.19B Checking alignment of sump with
cylinder block/crankcase15.19C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase
alignment shims
1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim
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