scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810) if the cylinder bore
is straight and round. 20-60 strokes depending on the
bore condition will be sufficient to provide a satisfac-
tory surface. Inspect cylinder walls after each 20
strokes. Using a light honing oil available from major
oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission
oil, mineral spirits or kerosene. (3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marks intersectat 50-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 1).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200-300
RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-hatch
angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute
can be regulated to get the desired 50-60 degree angle.
Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-hatch
angle. (5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.
CAUTION: Be sure all abrasive are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a brush
and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore can be
considered clean when it can be wiped clean with a
white cloth and cloth remains clean. Oil the bores
after cleaning to prevent rusting.
MEASURING MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE AND
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
PLASTIGAGE METHOD
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The follow-
ing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage: (1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil. (2) The total clearance of the main bearingscan
only be determined by removing the weight of the
crankshaft. This can be accomplished by either of
two methods: PREFERRED METHOD Ð Shimming the bear-
ings adjacent to the bearing to be checked in order to
remove the clearance between upper bearing shell
and the crankshaft. This can be accomplished by
placing a minimum of 0.254mm (.010 inch) shim (e.
g. cardboard, matchbook cover, etc.) between the
bearing shell and the bearing cap on the adjacent
bearings and snugging bolts to 14-20 N Im (10-15
ft.lb.)
² When checking #1 main brg shim #2 main brg
²
When checking #2 main brg shim # 1 & 3 main brg
²When checking #3 main brg shim #2 & 4 main brg
²When checking #4 main brg shim #3 & 5 main brg
²When checking #5 main brg shim #4 main brg
Fig. 2 Plastigage Placed in Lower Shell
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
Fig. 1 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
Ä ENGINE 9 - 3
REMOVE ALL SHIMS BEFORE REASSEM-
BLING ENGINE ALTERNATIVE METHOD Ð With the weight of
the crankshaft being supported by a jack under the
counterweight adjacent to the bearing being checked. (3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 2). (In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspect area).
Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing being
checked to the proper specifications. (4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 3) with the metric scale
provided on the package. Locate the band closest to the
same width. This band shows the amount of clearance
in thousandths of a millimeter. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper present.
Record all readings taken. Refer to Engine Specifica-
tions. Plastic-Gage generally is accompanied by
two scales. One scale is in inches, the other is a
metric scale. (5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076mm (.001-.003 inch) is usually
the most appropriate for checking engine bearing
proper specifications.
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The following
is the recommended procedure for the use of Plasti-
gage: (1) Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod to
be checked is at the bottom of its stroke. (2) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil. (3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap approxi-
mately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch.) off center and away from
the oil hole (Fig. 2). In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing plastigage in the suspect area. (4) Before assembling the rod cap with Plastigage in
place, the crankshaft must be rotated until the con-
necting being checked starts moving toward the top of
the engine. Only then should the cap be assembled and
torqued to specifications. Do not rotate the crank-
shaft while assembling the cap or the Plastigage
may be smeared, giving inaccurate results. (5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 3) with the metric
scale provided on the package. Locate the band closest
to the same width. This band shows the amount
of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter. Differences
in readings between the ends indicate the amount
of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Refer to Engine Specifications. Plastigage generally is accompanied by two scales. One scale is in
inches, the other is a metric scale. (6) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076mm (.001-.003 inch) is usually
the most appropriate for checking engine bearing
proper specifications.
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items. (1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them
to be spongy. (2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required. During this time, turn engine off and let set for a few
minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times
after engine has reached normal operating tempera-
ture. (3) Low oil pressure.
(4) The oil restrictor pressed into the vertical oil
passage to the cylinder head of Balance Shaft Engines
Only is plugged with debris. (5) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil
pump pick up. (6) Worn valve guides.
(7) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer
(2.2/2.5L engines). (8) Rocker arm loose, adjuster or tappet stuck or at
maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system. (9) Faulty lash adjuster or tappet.(a) Check for sponginess while still installed in
engine. Depress part of rocker arm just over adjuster
or pushrod . Normal adjusters should feel very firm.
Spongy adjusters can be depressed to the bottomed
position easily. (b) Remove suspected lash adjuster or tappet, pry
off retainer cap or snap ring and disassemble. Do
not reuse retainer caps . Do not interchange parts
and make sure that care and cleanliness is exercised
in the handling of parts. (c) Clean out dirt and varnish with solvent.
(d) Reassemble with engine oil.
(e) Check for sponginess.
(f) If still spongy, replace with new adjuster.
REPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (including aluminum head
spark plug threads) can be repaired. Essentially, this
repair consists of drilling out worn or damaged
threads, tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil (or
equivalent) Tap, and installing an insert into the
tapped hole. This brings the hole back to its original
thread size.
9 - 4 ENGINE Ä
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original centerline.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
HYDROSTATIC LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostaticly
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, these
steps should be used.
CAUTION: Do Not Use Starter Motor To Rotate En-
gine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in-
take manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material. (2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will
catch any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder
under pressure. (4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket. (5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other). (6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., Connecting
Rods, Pistons, Valves etc.) (7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately 1 teaspoon of oil
into cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cylin-
der walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil and install new oil filter. (11) Connect negative battery cable.
(12) Start engine and check for any leaks.
Ä ENGINE 9 - 5
2.2/2.5L ENGINES INDEX
page page
Balance Shafts .......................... 45
Camshaft and Crankshaft Timing Procedure .... 34
Camshaft, Crankshaft and Intermediate Shafts Timing Procedure ....................... 20
Camshafts Service ....................... 36
Checking Engine Oil Pressure ............... 60
Crankshaft Oil Seals Service ................ 42
Crankshaft Service ....................... 43
Crankshaft, Intermediate and Balance Shaft Service ............................... 41
Cylinder Block, Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Service ....................... 49
Cylinder Head ........................... 26
Cylinder Head and Valve Assembly ServiceÐExcept Turbo III ................. 22
Cylinder Head and Valve Assembly ServiceÐTurbo III ...................... 31
Cylinder Head ComponentsÐIn-Vehicle Service . 23
Engine Assembly ......................... 13 Engine Core Plugs
....................... 55
Engine Lubrication System ................. 56
Engine Mounts .......................... 12
Engine Specifications ...................... 62
General Information ........................ 8
Intermediate Shaft Service .................. 47
Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise ............... 37
Oil Filter ............................... 61
Oil Pan ................................ 58
Oil Pump Service ........................ 58
Solid Mount Compressor Bracket Service ...... 14
Timing System and Seals ServiceÐ Except Turbo III ........................ 18
Valve Components ReplaceÐCylinder Head Not Removed .......................... 37
Valve ServiceÐCylinder Head Removed ....... 27
Valve Springs and Valve Stem Seals ......... 38
GENERAL INFORMATION
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER OR CODE
The engine identification number is located on the
rear of the cylinder block just below the cylinder
head (Fig. 1). METHANOL FUEL COMPATIBILITY IDEN-
TIFICATION Beginning this model year, Chrysler began produc-
ing AA-Body vehicles designed to operate on a mix-
ture of gasoline and methanol. These automobiles are
referred to as Flexible Fuel vehicles.
2.2/2.5L ENGINE SPECIFICATION
9 - 8 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä
ENGINE MOUNTS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION RIGHT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Remove the right engine mount insulator ver-
tical fasteners from frame rail. (2) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts
by carefully supporting the engine and transmission
assembly with a floor jack. (3) Remove the thru bolt from the insulator assem-
bly. Remove insulator. (4) Reverse removal procedure for installation. Re-
fer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening specifications. (5) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
FRONT MOUNT
(1) Support the engine and transmission assembly
with a floor jack so it will not rotate. (2) Remove the thru bolt from the insulator and
front crossmember mounting bracket. (3) Remove the front engine mount bracket to
front crossmember screws and nuts. Remove the in-
sulator assembly. (4) Reverse removal procedure for installation. Re-
fer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening specifications. (5) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
LEFT SIDE MOUNT
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist and remove left front
wheel. (2) Remove inter splash shield.
(3) Support the transmission with a transmission
jack. (4) Remove the insulator thru bolt from the mount.
(5) Remove the transmission mount fasteners and
remove mount. (6) Reverse removal procedure for installation. En-
sure that the slide tube is seated into the rail
bracket guides. Refer to (Fig. 3) for bolt tightening
specifications. (7) Engine mount adjustment, Refer to Engine
Mount Insulator Adjustment of this section.
ENGINE MOUNT RUBBER INSULATORS
Insulator location on frame rail (right side) and
transmission bracket (left side) are adjustable to al-
low right/left drive train adjustment in relation to
drive shaft assembly length. Check and reposition right engine mount insulator
(left engine mount insulator is floating type and will
adjust automatically (Fig. 4). Adjust drive train posi-
tion, if required, for the following conditions:
Fig. 3 Engine Mounting
9 - 12 2.2/2.5L ENGINE Ä
² Drive shaft distress: See Driveshafts in Suspension,
Group 2.
² Any front end structural damage (after repair).
² Insulator replacement.
ENGINE MOUNT INSULATOR ADJUSTMENT
(1) Remove the load on the engine motor mounts by
carefully supporting the engine and transmission as-
sembly with a floor jack. (2) Loosen the right engine mount insulator vertical
fasteners, and the front engine mount bracket to front
crossmember screws and nuts. Left engine mount insulator is sleeved over
shaft and long support bolt to provide lateral
movement adjustment with engine weight re-
moved or not. (3) Pry the engine right or left as required to achieve
the proper drive shaft assembly length. See Drive
Shaft in Suspension Group 2 for driveshaft identifica-
tion and related assembly length measuring. (4) Tighten right engine mount insulator vertical
bolts to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.). Then tighten front engine
mount screws and nuts to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) and
center left engine mount insulator. (5) Recheck drive shaft length.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery.
(2) Scribe hood hinge outline on hood and remove
hood. (3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove hoses from radiator and engine.
(5) Remove radiator and fan assembly.
(6) Remove air cleaner and hoses.
(7) Remove air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts and set compressor aside, if equipped. (8) Remove power steering pump mounting bolts
and set pump aside (9) Remove oil filter.
(10) Disconnect fuel line, heater hose and acceler-
ator cable. (11) Disconnect all electrical connections and har-
nesses at throttle body and engine. (12) Manual Transmission
(a) Disconnect clutch cable.
(b) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(c) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(d) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(e) Install transmission holding fixture.
(13) Automatic Transmission
(a) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(b) Disconnect starter and lay aside.
(c) Remove transmission case lower cover.
(d) Mark flex plate to torque converter.
(e) Remove screws holding torque converter to
flex plate.
(14) Attach C clamp on front bottom of torque con-
verter housing to prevent torque converter from com-
ing out. (15) Install transmission holding fixture.
(16) Remove right inner splash shield (Fig. 5).
(17) Remove ground strap.
(18) To lowerengine separate right engine
bracket from yoke bracket To raiseengine remove
long bolt through yoke and insulator. IF INSULA-
TOR TO RAIL SCREWS ARE TO BE REMOVED,
MARK INSULATOR POSITION ON SIDE RAIL TO
INSURE EXACT INSTALLATION (Fig. 4). (19) Remove transmission case to cylinder block
mounting screws.Fig. 5 Right Inner Splash Shield
Fig. 4 Left Insulator Movement
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 13
(6) Remove Bracket bolts #2 and #3 from rear of
engine. Remove Bracket (Fig. 13).
INSTALLATION (1) Loose assemble bracket to engine.
(2) Tighten bolts #2 and #3 to 3.3 N Im (30 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 13). (3) Tighten timing belt idler pulley and tighten to
54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 12).
(4) Tighten bolts 32 and #3 to 54 N Im (40 ft. lbs.)
(Fig. 13). (5) Camshaft and Crankshaft timing should be
checked at this time. Adjust as necessary following procedure outlined in
this section. (6) Install power steering pump on bracket tighten
bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.) torque (Fig. 11).
(7) Install timing belt covers. Refer to procedure
outlined in this section.
CAUTION: Do not use impact wrench on accessory
drive belt tensioner bolt. It may cause damage to
tensioner arm.
(8) Install accessory drive belt tensioner pulley
bolt finger tight. Then tighten bolt to 54 N Im (40 ft.
lbs.) torque. Install accessory drive belt, Refer to
Cooling System Group 7 for procedure.
Fig. 11 Power Steering Pump Attaching Bolts
Fig. 12 Power Steering Pump Bracket and Timing Belt Idler Bolt
Fig. 13 Power Steering Pump/Accessory Drive BeltTensioner Bracket Attaching Bolts
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 17
(2) Turn camshaft until arrows on hub are inline
with No. 1 camshaft cap to cylinder headline. Small
hole (arrow Fig. 12) must be in vertical center line. (3) Install timing belt.
(4) Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions and re-
check timing.
CAUTION: Do not allow oil or solvents to contact
the timing belt as they can deteriorate the rubber
and cause tooth skipping.
(5) Rotate crankshaft till number 1 cylinder is at
the TDC position. (6) Put belt tension Special Tool C-4703 horizon-
tally on large hex of timing belt tensioner pulley and
loosen tensioner lock nut. (7) Reset belt tension Special Tool C-4703 index if
necessary to have axis within 15É of horizontal. (Fig.
13) (8) Turn engine clockwise from TDC two crank revo-
lutions to TDC. Do not reverse rotate crankshaft
or attempt to rotate engine using cam or acces-
sory shaft attaching screw. (9) Hold weighted wrench in position while tighten-
ing bolt on tensioner to 61 N Im (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Lower engine onto engine mount install mount-
ing bolts and tighten to specifications refer to (Fig. 3). (11) Remove jack from under engine.
(12) Inspect foam stuffer block condition and posi-
tion (Fig. 14). Stuffer block should be intact and secure
within the engine bracket tunnel. (13) Position both halves of timing belt cover to-
gether (Fig. 4). (14) Install fasteners holding cover to cylinder head
and block. Tighten fasteners to 4 N Im (40 in. lbs.)
torque. (15) Valve Timing Check; (timing belt cover in-
stalled). With number one cylinder at TDC, small hole
in sprocket must be centered in timing belt cover hole
(Fig. 12). If hole is not aligned correctly perform
procedure again. (16) Install spark plugs.
Fig. 12 Camshaft Timing
Fig. 13 Adjusting Drive Belt Tension
Fig. 14 Foam Stuffer Block Location
Ä 2.2/2.5L ENGINE 9 - 21