1989 FORD FIESTA wheel bolts

Ignition system
Firing order:HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)
All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . Champion C61YC
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines: With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mmWith Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines: Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1.0 mm
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion LS-28
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms * Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended b\
y Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their
manufacturer’s recommendations.
Braking system
Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Tyres
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Wiper blades
Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4803Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . Champion X-4103
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment: Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 2216
Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 129
Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 2418
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Spark plugs: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1813
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 71 to 100 52 to 74
Servicing Specifications1•3
1
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4 Auxiliary drivebelt check andrenewal
2
General
1The number of auxiliary drivebelts fitted and
their type depends on engine, and on whether
the vehicle is equipped with power steering.
The drivebelt(s) are located on the right-hand
end of the engine and will be either of the V-
belt type or the flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”)
type. The belt drives the alternator, water
pump and, on CVH and Zetec engines with
power steering, the power steering pump
from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. On HCS
engines with power steering, one belt drives
the alternator and water pump and a separate
belt drives the power steering pump.
2 The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and
deteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.
Check
3 With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelt(s) on the right-hand end of the
engine (Be very careful, and wear protective
gloves to minimise the risk of burning your
hands on hot components, if the engine has
recently been running). For improved access,
jack up the front right-hand side of the
vehicle, support it securely on an axle
stand, remove the roadwheel, then (where
fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower
cover from inside the wheel arch (see
illustration) .
4 Using an inspection light or an electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt(s) for cracks, separation of the
rubber, and torn or worn ribs
(see
illustration) . Also check for fraying and
glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny
appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt(s)
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the drivebelt(s) to check the
underside. Feel the relevant drivebelt where
you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to
the condition of the drivebelt(s), renewal is
necessary (go to paragraph 23).
Drivebelt tension
5 The tension must be adjusted manually on
all V-belt type drivebelts, on flat “polyvee”
type drivebelts fitted to early Zetec engines,
and on “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to HCS
engines to drive the power steering pump.
The “polyvee” type drivebelts used on later
Zetec engines and PTE engines are fitted with
an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct
belt adjustment.
6 For models on which the tension can be
adjusted manually, open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle, and
support it securely on an axle stand. Remove
the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the
auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the
wheel arch.
7
Ford technicians use a special tension gauge
and various other special tools for checking
drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes,
checking the belt tension using finger pressure
gives a good indication of correct adjustment.
Apply firm finger pressure midway between the
pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look
for a deflection of approximately 2.0 mm (i.e. a
total drivebelt “swing” of approximately
4.0 mm) (see illustration) .
8 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows according to belt type.
V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster
9 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts
and sliding arm adjustment bolts, pivot the
alternator as required to provide the correct
drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to
secure (see illustration) .
10 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
11 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months,
whichever comes first
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•11
4.9 Alternator sliding arm adjustment
bolt (A) and sliding arm mounting bolt (B) - V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster
4.7 Checking drivebelt adjustment - V-belt types
Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection
4.3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch
1
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4.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt forsigns of wear like these. Very small
cracks across the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If the cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt looks worn or
damaged in any other way, renew it. This is the “polyvee” type belt, butthe checks on the V-belt type are the same
Turning the engine will be
much easier if the spark
plugs are removed first
(Section 21).
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V-belt and flat “polyvee” type
drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type
adjuster
12Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts
and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken
the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the
pinion nut as required to take up the tension
of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting,
and tighten the central bolt securely to lock
the adjuster arm and set the tension (see
illustrations) .
13 Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts securely.
14 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
15 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine
power steering pump drivebelt)
16 Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt
then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the
tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take
up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt
deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster
pulley centre retaining bolt.
17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
18 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
automatic adjuster
19 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt
is tensioned by an automatic tensioner;
regular checks are not required, and manual
“adjustment” is not possible.
20 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping
and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is
otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do
this, remove the drivebelt as described below,
then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On
fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is
aligned correctly on its mountings, and
tightened to the specified torque wrench
setting.
Renewal
21 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover (where fitted) from inside the
wheel arch.
22 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type,
and on whether power steering is fitted.
Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea
to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this
will save a lot of frustration when it comes to
refitting. Note that on HCS engines with
power steering, to renew the alternator/
water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to
remove the power steering pump drivebelt
first.
23 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way round.
24 To renew a drivebelt with manual
adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as
described above, according to type. Slip the
belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt,
ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a
flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the
grooved pulleys so that it is centred in
their grooves, and not overlapping their raised
sides. With the belt in position, adjust the
tension as previously described.
25 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt
with automatic adjuster, reach up between
the body and the engine (above the
crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the
hexagon in the centre of the automatic
tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley
clockwise to release its pressure on the
drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the
crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner
again (see illustration) . Note that on certain
models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and
that this will remain in the released position.
Working from the wheel arch or engine
compartment as necessary, and noting its
routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining
pulleys and withdraw it.
26 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their
grooves are clean, and removing all traces of oil and grease. Check that the tensioner
works properly, with strong spring pressure
being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise,
and a smooth return to the limit of its travel
when released.
27
If the original drivebelt is being refitted,
use the marks or notes made on removal, to
ensure that it is installed to run in the same
direction as it was previously. To fit the
drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so
that it is centred in their grooves, and not
overlapping their raised sides, and is routed
correctly. Start at the top, and work down to
finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the
tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt
onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the
tensioner again.
28 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that
the drivebelt is properly installed.
29 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
5 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition
1
General
1High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emissions systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
1•12Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
4.25 Automatic drivebelt tensioner - “polyvee” type drivebelt
Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension4.12b When the tension is correct, hold
the adjuster nut, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster
A Adjuster arm
B Pinion (adjuster) nut
C Central (locking) bolt
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point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration) . Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication
of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
13 Underbody and fuel/brake line check
1
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
14 Brake check
2
Note:
For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.
b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.
Front brakes
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit,
all fourpads
must be renewed as a set.
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that they
still have service life remaining. If any disc is
thinner than the specified minimum thickness,
renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,
check the general condition of the discs. Look
for excessive scoring and discolouration
caused by overheating. If these conditions
exist, remove the relevant disc and have it
resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering
the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer
to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible
hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where
they are subjected to most movement. Bend
them between the fingers (but do not actually
bend them double, or the casing may be
damaged) and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.
Rear brakes
11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings
of the leading brake shoes. Check that the
thickness of the lining material on the brake
shoes is not less than the recommendation
given in the Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chap-
ter 9).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 27.
15 Roadwheel nut tightness check
1
1Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit
(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•17
12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system
rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the others
1
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3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure: At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 0.60 barsAt 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.50 bars
Oil pump clearances: Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 0.14 to 0.26 mm
Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.051 to 0.127 mm
Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.06 mm
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 1813
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 115 85
Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4332
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 6749
Sump: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1410
Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only): Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 3022
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 8 6
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 9 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 5 4
Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Engine mountings: Engine mounting (right-hand):Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 to 72 40 to 53
Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 95 52 to 70
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B
Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2A•2 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.4 and
1.6 litre CVH and PTE engines, and the 1.6
and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in
Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively.
Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
vehicle, if the engine has been removed from
the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some
of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined
will not apply. Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The engine is an overhead valve, water-
cooled, four cylinder in-line design,
designated HCS (High Compression Swirl).
The engine is mounted transversely at the
front of the vehicle together with the
transmission to form a combined power unit. The crankshaft is supported in three or five
shell-type main bearings. The connecting rod
big-end bearings are also split shell-type, and
are attached to the pistons by interference-fit
gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two
compression rings and one oil control ring. The camshaft, which runs on bearings
within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from
the crankshaft, and operates the valves via
pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are
each closed by a single valve spring, and
operate in guides integral in the cylinder head. The oil pump is mounted externally on the
crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter,
and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft.
On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also
driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric
lobe.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head rocker cover - removal
and refitting.
c) Valve clearances - adjustment.
d) Rocker shaft assembly - removal,
inspection and refitting.
e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting
f) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
g) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.
h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
i) Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner -
removal, inspection and refitting.
j) Oil filter renewal.
k) Oil pump - removal and refitting.
l) Sump - removal and refitting.
m) Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings -
inspection and renewal.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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gasket onto the top face of the cylinder block
and over the dowels. Ensure that it is correctly
aligned with the coolant passages and
oilways (see illustration) .
26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into
position, then insert the retaining bolts and
hand-tighten them.
27 Tightening of the cylinder head bolts must
done in three stages, and in the correct
sequence (see illustration) . First tighten all of
the bolts in the sequence shown to the
Stage 1 torque setting (see illustration).
When all of the bolts are tightened to the
Stage 1 setting, further tighten each bolt (in
sequence) through the Stage 2 specified
angle of rotation. When the second stage
tightening is completed on all of the bolts,
further tighten them to the Stage 3 angle
setting (in sequence) to complete. Where
possible, use an angular torque setting gauge
attachment tool for accurate tightening of
stages two and three (see illustration).
28 Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine
oil, and then insert them into their original
locations in the engine.
29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
30 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them
to the specified torque wrench setting. As
they are tightened, some of the rocker arms
will apply pressure to the ends of the valve
stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will
not initially be in contact with the cylinder head - these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened. If for any reason they do not, avoid
the temptation to overtighten in order to pull
them into position; loosen off the bolts, and
check the cause of the problem. It may be
that the rocker adjuster screws require
loosening off in order to allow the assembly to
be tightened down as required.
31
Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
32 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
33 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components. Ensure
that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
34 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
8 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel.
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Loosen off the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent the crankshaft from turning,
unbolt and remove the clutch housing cover
plate. Lock the starter ring gear on the
flywheel using a large screwdriver or similar
tool inserted through the cover plate aperture.
Alternatively, remove the starter motor
(Chapter 5A) and lock the ring gear through
the starter motor aperture. 5
Fully unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
and withdraw the pulley from the front end of
the crankshaft. If it does not pull off by hand,
lever it free using a pair of suitable levers
positioned diagonally opposite each other
behind the pulley.
6 If required, the crankshaft front oil seal can
be renewed at this stage, as described in
Section 14.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the pulley retaining
bolt is tightened to the specified torque
setting.
8 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1, and lower the vehicle to complete.
9 Timing chain cover -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
tion 11.
2 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in the previous Section.
3 A combined timing cover and water pump
gasket is fitted during production; if this is still
in position, it will be necessary to drain the
cooling system and remove the water pump
as described in Chapter 3. If the water pump
and/or the timing cover have been removed at
any time, the single gasket used originally will
have been replaced by an individual gasket
for each component, in which case the water
pump can remain in position.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and carefully
prise free the timing chain cover.
5 Clean the mating faces of the timing chain
cover, and the engine.
6 If necessary, renew the crankshaft front oil
seal in the timing cover prior to refitting the
cover (see Section 14).
Refitting
7 Lightly lubricate the front end of the
crankshaft and the radial lip of the timing
chain cover oil seal (already installed in the
2A•6 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
7.27c Cylinder head bolt tightening
(Stages 2 and 3) using an angle gauge
7.27b Tightening the cylinder head bolts (Stage 1)7.27a Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence7.25 Cylinder head gasket top-facemarking (“OBEN”)
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