1989 FORD FIESTA wiring

and gasket. Discard the gasket - this must be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
7Refit in the reverse order of removal. Check
that the mating faces are clean, and fit a new
gasket. Adjust the accelerator cable as
described in Section 5 on completion.
Fuel rail and injectors
Note: The following procedure is applicable
mainly to Zetec engines; specific information
for the PTE engine was not available at the
time of writing. However, apart from minor
differences in component attachments, both
engine types are very similar in this area.
8 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
9 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5A, Section 1.
10 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
11 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5).
12 Disconnect the throttle position sensor
multi-plug.
13 Remove the throttle housing mounting
screws, then detach the throttle housing and gasket from the inlet manifold. Discard the
gasket - this must be renewed whenever it is
disturbed.
14
Detach the crankcase breather hose from
the cylinder head cover, and the fuel pressure
regulator vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold.
15 Releasing the wire clips, unplug the four
fuel injector multi-plugs and the inlet air
temperature sensor multi-plug.
16 Refer to Section 3 and disconnect the fuel
feed and return lines at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel. Note: Do not disturb the threaded
couplings at the fuel rail unions unless
absolutely necessary; these are sealed at the
factory. The quick-release couplings will
suffice for all normal service operations.
17 Unscrew the three bolts securing the fuel
rail (see illustration) . Withdraw the rail,
carefully prising it out of the inlet manifold,
and draining any remaining fuel into a suitable
clean container. Note the seals between the
rail noses and the manifold; these must be
renewed whenever the rail is removed (see
illustration) .
18 Clamping the rail carefully in a vice fitted
with soft jaws, unscrew the two bolts securing
each injector, and withdraw the injectors (see
illustration) . Place each in a clean, clearly-
labelled storage container.
19 If the injector(s) are being renewed,
discard the old injector, the nose seal and the
O- rings. If only the injector O-rings are being renewed, and it is intended that the same
injectors will be re-used, remove the old nose
seal and O-rings, and discard them.
20
Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) Lubricate each nose seal and O-ring with clean engine oil on installation.
b) Locate each injector carefully in the fuel
rail recess, ensuring that the locating tab
on the injector head fits into the slot
provided in the rail. Tighten the bolts
securely.
c) Fit a new seal to each fuel rail nose, and
ensure that the seals are not displaced as
the rail is refitted (see illustration).
Ensure that the fuel rail is settled fully in
the manifold before tightening the bolts.
d) Ensure that the hoses and wiring are
routed correctly, and secured on
reconnection by any clips or ties
provided.
e) Adjust the accelerator cable as described
in Section 5.
f) On completion, switch the ignition on and off five times, to activate the fuel pump
and pressurise the system, without
cranking the engine. Check for signs of
fuel leaks around all disturbed unions and
joints before attempting to start the
engine.
Fuel pressure regulator
21 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap.
Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
22 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5A, Section 1.
23 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
regulator.
24 Unscrew the two regulator retaining bolts
(see illustration) then use a wad of clean rag
to soak up any spilt fuel, and withdraw the
regulator.
Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines 4D•5
14.18 Removing an injector from the fuel rail. Note the O-ring seals (arrowed)14.17b Note nose seals (arrowed) between rail and intermediate flange14.17a Unscrewing fuel rail mounting bolts (arrowed)
14.24 Fuel pressure regulator vacuumhose (A) and retaining bolts (B)14.20 Fit new nose seals (arrowed) before refitting the fuel rail
4D
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25Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Renew the regulator sealing O-ring
whenever the regulator is disturbed.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean
engine oil on installation.
b) Locate the regulator carefully in the fuel
rail recess, and tighten the bolts securely.
c) On completion, switch the ignition on and off five times, to activate the fuel pump
and pressurise the system, without
cranking the engine. Check for signs of
fuel leaks around all disturbed unions and
joints before attempting to start the
engine.
Idle speed control valve
26 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
27 Disconnect the valve’s wiring multi-plug
(see illustration) .
28 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the inlet manifold.
29 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Clean the mating surfaces carefully, and
always fit a new gasket whenever the
valve is disturbed.
b) Once the wiring and battery are
reconnected, start the engine and allow it
to idle. When it has reached normal
operating temperature, check that the idle
speed is stable, and that no induction (air)
leaks are evident. Switch on all electrical loads (headlights, heated rear window,
etc), and check that the idle speed is still
satisfactory.
Mass air flow sensor
30
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
electrical connector from the sensor (see
illustration 4.2a) .
31 Release the two clips and detach the
sensor from the air cleaner cover (see
illustrations 4.2b and 4.2c) .
32 Slacken the clamp securing the sensor to
the air inlet hose, and withdraw the sensor.
33 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the sensor and air
cleaner cover are seated correctly and
securely fastened, so that there are no air
leaks.
EEC IV engine management
module
Note: The module is fragile. Take care not to
drop it, or subject it to any other kind of
impact. Do not subject it to extremes of
temperature, or allow it to get wet. Refer to
Part B, Section 14 for illustrations of the
following procedure.
34 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
35 Remove the cooling system expansion
tank as described in Chapter 3, for access to
the module multi-plug.
36 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the module cover in the engine
compartment, then carefully draw the cover
away from its location. Unscrew the module
multi-plug retaining bolt and disconnect
the multi-plug from the module.
37 The aid of an assistant will be required at
this stage, to support and withdraw the
module from inside the passenger
compartment as its mounting bracket retaining
tags are compressed and released from the
engine compartment. Do not allow the module
to drop into the passenger compartment as
irreparable damage is likely to result. The
module may be separated from its mounting
bracket by undoing the securing bolts.
38 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the module
mounting bracket retaining tags are felt to snap into position. Refit the expansion tank as
described in Chapter 3 on completion.
Crankshaft position sensor
39
Refer to Chapter 5B.
Camshaft position sensor
40Where applicable, release the fuel feed
and return hoses from their clip. On PTE
engines, detach the adjacent engine breather
hose.
41 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s wiring multi-plug. Remove the
retaining screw, and withdraw the sensor from
the cylinder head; be prepared for slight oil
loss (see illustration) .
42 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Apply petroleum jelly or clean engine oil
to the sensor’s sealing O-ring.
b) Locate the sensor fully in the cylinder
head, and wipe off any surplus lubricant
before securing it.
c) Tighten the screw to the specified torque wrench setting.
Coolant temperature sensor
43 Refer to Chapter 3.
Inlet air temperature sensor
44Releasing its clip, unplug the sensor’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the sensor
from the inlet manifold (see illustration).
45 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Throttle position sensor
46 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s wiring multi-plug. Remove the
retaining screws, and withdraw the unit from
the throttle housing (see illustration). Do not
force the sensor’s centre to rotate past its
normal operating sweep; the unit will be
seriously damaged.
47 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the sensor is correctly orientated, by locating its centre on the D-
shaped throttle shaft (throttle closed), and
aligning the sensor body so that the bolts
pass easily into the throttle housing.
4D•6 Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines
14.46 Throttle position sensor mounting screws (arrowed)14.44 Removing the intake air temperaturesensor from the rear of the inlet manifold
(Zetec engine shown)14.41 Disconnecting the camshaft positionsensor wiring multi-plug (Zetec engine
shown)
14.27 Idle speed control valve wiringmulti-plug (A) and visible mounting bolts (B)
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b)Tighten the screws evenly and securely
(but do not overtighten them, or the
potentiometer body will be cracked).
Vehicle speed sensor
48 The sensor is mounted at the base of the
speedometer drive cable, and is removed with
the speedometer drive pinion. Refer to the
relevant Section of Chapter 7A or B, as
applicable.
Power steering pressure switch
49 Releasing its clip, unplug the switch’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the switch
from the power steering high pressure pipe.
Place a wad of rag underneath, to catch any
spilt fluid. If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it
if it is worn or damaged.
50 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely, then
top-up the fluid reservoir (see “Weekly
Checks”) to replace any fluid lost from the
system, and bleed out any trapped air (see
Chapter 10).
Oxygen sensor
Note: The sensor is delicate, and will not work
if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply
is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are
used on it.
51 Raise and support the front of the vehicle
if required to remove the sensor from
underneath (“see Jacking and vehicle
support” ).
52 Release the sensor’s wiring multi-plug
from its support bracket, and unplug it to
disconnect the sensor (see illustration).
53 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust
system front downpipe; collect the sealing
washer (where fitted).
54 On refitting, clean the sealing washer
(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or
worn. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound
to the sensor’s threads, to prevent them from
welding themselves to the downpipe in
service. Refit the sensor, tightening it to its
specified torque wrench setting; a slotted
socket will be required to do this. Reconnect
the wiring, and refit the connector plug.
15 Inlet manifold -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
PTE engines
1 The inlet manifold is a two-piece assembly
comprising an upper and lower section bolted
together.
2 Drain the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
3 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the engine
to run - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
5 Remove the air inlet components (Sec-
tion 4) and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage (Section 5).
6 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as
described in Section 14.
7 Noting their locations, disconnect the
coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the
manifold. 8
Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
engine sensors at the inlet manifold.
9 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head. Note the
location of the engine lifting bracket and earth
lead, where fitted. Remove the gasket.
10 With the manifold removed, clean all
traces of the old gasket from the mating
surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder
head.Zetec engines
11 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
12 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
13 Remove the air inlet components (Sec-
tion 4) and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage (Section 5).
14 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union.
15 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield.
16 Remove the two screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the top of the manifold - this is
simply so that it can be moved as required to
reach the manifold bolts (see illustration).
Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines 4D•7
14.52 Oxygen sensor (A) and wiring multi-
plug (B) (Zetec engine shown)15.16 Exploded view of the Zetec engine inlet manifold components
4D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 Cylinder head
cover
2 Heat-insulating plate/gasket
3 Intermediate flange/fuel rail
assembly
4 Gasket
5 Inlet manifold
6 Intake air temperature
sensor
7 Engine wiring
loom
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Unplug the electrical connectors at the
camshaft position sensor and the coolant
temperature sensor, then unclip the wiring
from the ignition coil bracket, and secure it to
the manifold.
17Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the wiring of the
manifold components from the engine wiring
loom.
18 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses at
the manifold and throttle housing.
19 Undo the fuel feed and return lines
connecting the engine to the chassis. Plug or
cap all open fittings. 20
Unbolt the earth lead from the cylinder
head rear support plate/engine lifting eye,
then unscrew the bolt securing the support
plate/lifting eye.
21 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the
manifold to the cylinder head, and withdraw it.
Take care not to damage vulnerable
components as the manifold assembly is
manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.
22 With the manifold removed, clean all
traces of the old gasket from the mating
surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder head.
Refitting
All engines
23 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifold on the head and install the nuts and bolts.
b) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four
equal steps to the specified torque,
working from the centre outwards, to
avoid warping the manifold.
c) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal - tighten all fasteners to
the torque wrench settings specified
(where given).
d) Where drained, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1.
e) Before starting the engine, check the accelerator cable for correct adjustment
and the throttle linkage for smooth
operation (Section 5).
f) When the engine is fully warmed-up,
check for signs of fuel, inlet and/or
vacuum leaks.
4D•8 Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines
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2The exhaust manifold is secured the
cylinder head by studs and nuts, and is
similarly attached to the exhaust downpipe. A
shroud/heat shield is bolted to the manifold,
to direct exhaust-heated air into the air inlet
system when the engine is cold. Access to the
exhaust manifold retaining nuts is gained by
first removing this shroud (see illustration).
3 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping as
described in Section 7.
4 Support the exhaust downpipe on a jack or
suitable blocks, and undo the downpipe-to-
manifold retaining nuts. Separate the pipe
from the manifold, and remove the gasket. On
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles with an
oxygen sensor fitted to the exhaust
downpipe, take care not to stretch the sensor
wiring; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s
multi-plug.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head studs.
Remove the manifold gasket.Zetec enginesNote: In addition to the new gasket and any
other parts, tools or facilities needed to carry
out this operation, a new plastic guide sleeve
will be required on reassembly.
6 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Chapter 5A, Section 1.
7 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Part D of this Chapter.
8 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
9 Disconnect the coolant hose and the
coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat
housing; secure them clear of the working
area.
10 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and withdraw both parts of the shield (see
illustration) .
11 While the manifold can be removed with
the pulse-air system components attached -
unbolt the filter housing and disconnect its
vacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier
to remove the pulse-air assembly first, as
described in Section 7. 12
Unplug the oxygen sensor electrical
connector, to avoid straining its wiring.
Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust
system front downpipe from the manifold.
13 Remove the nuts and detach the manifold
and gasket (see illustration) . When removing
the manifold with the engine in the vehicle,
additional clearance can be obtained by
unscrewing the studs from the cylinder head;
a female Torx-type socket will be required.
14 Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to
carefully-cleaned components. Do not
attempt to re-use the original gasket.
Inspection
15 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old
gasket material and carbon deposits from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces.
Provided both mating surfaces are clean and
flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure
that the joint is gastight. Do not use any kind
of exhaust sealant upstream of the catalytic
converter, where fitted.
16 Note that on some models, the downpipe is
secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a coil
spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each.
On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on
the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs
will then suffice to make a gastight joint.
17 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak -
the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the
springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves
are secured by spring clips to the manifold,
and can be renewed easily if damaged.
Refitting
18 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder head studs, and on Zetec engines, fit a
new plastic guide sleeve to the stud
nearest to the thermostat housing, so that
the manifold will be correctly located (see
illustration) . Do notrefit the manifold
without this sleeve.
b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the
mounting nuts.
c) Working from the centre out, and in three or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the
torque wrench settings given in the
Specifications.
4E•4 Exhaust and emission control systems
3.18 Fit a new plastic guide sleeve to the
stud (arrowed) when refitting the manifold
(Zetec engine models)3.13 Exhaust manifold retaining nuts(Zetec engine models)3.10 Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts(arrowed) (Zetec engine models)
3.2 Exploded view of the exhaust manifold arrangement (1.6 litre CVH E\
Fi engine models)
1 Retaining stud
2 Gasket
3 Heatshield 4 Exhaust manifold
5 Manifold retaining nut
6 Centring hole 7 Heatshield retaining bolt
8 Cylinder head
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1 General information,precautions and battery
disconnection
General information
The engine electrical system consists
mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.
The electrical system is of the 12-volt
negative earth type. The battery is of the low maintenance or
“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.
Precautions
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual” , available from the publishers of this
manual. It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged. If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative (see “Jump starting” ). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring or any test instruments when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected. Never “test” for alternator output by
“flashing” the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding
equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure that their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever the
battery is to be disconnected therefore, first note
the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected.
b) On cars equipped with an engine
management system, the system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if
it is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the
information relating to idle speed control
and other operating values will have to be
re-programmed into the unit’s memory.
The ECU does this by itself, but until then,
there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle
and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
c) If the battery is disconnected while the alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
d) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s
systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!
2 Electrical fault finding - general information
Refer to Chapter 12.
3 Battery -testing and charging
1
Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing
1If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
5A•2 Starting and charging systems
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Ambient Ambient
temperature temperature
abovebelow
25°C (77°F) 25°C (77°F)
Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250
Fully-discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
Note that the specific gravity readings
assume an electrolyte temperature of
15°C (60°F); for every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C
(60°F) subtract 0.007. For every 10°C (18°F)
above 15°C (60°F) add 0.007.
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -
testing
4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that the doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a
reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
7 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.
Standard and low maintenance
battery - charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to
4 amps and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four hour period.
9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
11
While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).
Maintenance-free battery -
charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
12 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standard
type, the time taken being dependent on the
extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up to three days.
13 A constant voltage type charger is
required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9
to 14.9 volts with a charger current below
25 amps. Using this method, the battery
should be usable within three hours, giving a
voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a
partially discharged battery and, as
mentioned, full charging can take
considerably longer.
14 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (condition reading less than
12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Ford
dealer or local automotive electrician, as the
charge rate is higher and constant supervision
during charging is necessary.
4 Battery -
removal and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
Removal
1 The battery is located forward on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment, on a
platform welded to the vehicle structure.
2 Undo the retaining nut, then detach the
earth leads from the stud of the battery
negative (earth) terminal post. This is the
terminal to disconnect before working on, or
disconnecting, any electrical component on
the vehicle.
3 Pivot up the plastic cover from the positive
terminal, then unscrew the positive lead
retaining nut on the terminal. Detach the
positive lead from the terminal.
4 Release the clamp securing the battery to
its platform and remove it. Lift the battery
from its location, keeping it in an upright
position to avoid the possibility of corrosive
electrolyte spilling onto the paintwork.
5 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps
and the battery casing. If the bulkhead is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint with
reference to Chapter 1. 6
If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear the
battery terminals with a petroleum-based jelly
prior to reconnecting. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.
5 Charging system - testing
2
Note:Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
1 If the ignition warning light fails to
illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first check the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check that the
warning light bulb has not blown, and that
the bulbholder is secure in its location in the
instrument panel. If the light still fails to
illuminate, check the continuity of the
warning light feed wire from the alternator to
the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the
alternator is at fault and should be renewed
or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned
(see Chapter 1) and that the alternator
connections are secure. If all is so far
satisfactory, have the alternator checked by
an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the
reading should be approximately 13.5 to
14.6 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.
Starting and charging systems 5A•3
5A
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6 Alternator-
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ).
3 Where applicable, undo the retaining bolts
and remove the drivebelt splash guard (see
illustration) .
4 On models with power steering and a
separate drivebelt, remove the auxiliary
(power steering pump) drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
Alternator with manual adjustment
drivebelt
5 On models fitted with a sliding arm type
adjuster strap, unscrew and remove the top
(adjuster) bolt from the strap (see
illustration) .
6 On models fitted with a “rack-and-pinion”
type adjuster, unscrew and remove the
central (locking) bolt whilst, at the same time,
loosening the (adjuster) nut (see illustration).
7 Loosen off, but do not yet remove, the lower mounting bolts, pivot the
alternator inwards towards the engine to
slacken the tension of the drivebelt, then
disengage the drivebelt from the pulleys and
remove it.
8
Where applicable, detach and remove the
alternator splash cover/heat shield (see
illustration) .
9 Where applicable, detach and remove the
phase terminal and the splash cover.
10 Supporting the weight of the alternator
from underneath, unscrew and remove the
mounting bolts. Lower the alternator; noting
the connections, detach the wiring and
remove the alternator from the vehicle (see
illustration) .
Alternator with automatic adjustment
drivebelt
11Remove the heatshield (if fitted) and
disconnect the alternator wiring.
12 Fit a ring spanner onto the drivebelt
tensioner, and rotate it clockwise to loosen off
the tension from the drivebelt (see
illustration) . Note the routing of the drivebelt,
then disengage the belt from the pulleys and
remove it.
13 On pre-1994 model year Zetec engines,
disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring multi-
plug, then undo the two nuts and separate the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Support the downpipe to avoid straining the exhaust
system mountings.
14
On all models, unscrew the alternator
upper mounting bolts/nuts and disconnect the
alternator wiring. Unscrew the lower
bolts/nuts and remove the alternator from the
engine. On pre-1994 Zetec engines, it will be
necessary to de-tension the drivebelt
tensioner to provide clearance for removal of
the upper mounting bolt nut.
Refitting
15 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refit
the drivebelt, and ensure that it is correctly re-
routed around the pulleys. Adjust the tension
of the drivebelt (according to type) as
described in Chapter 1.
7 Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - renewal
3
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Remove the alternator from the vehicle as
described in the previous Section.
Bosch
3 Remove the two screws securing the
combined brush box/regulator unit, and
5A•4 Starting and charging systems
6.12 Automatic drivebelt tensioner
Turn tensioner clockwise to release drivebelt tension
6.10 Wiring loom routing on rear ofalternator (CVH engine)6.8 Removing the splash cover from the inner end of the alternator
6.6 Rack-and-pinion type drivebelt adjuster
A Adjuster arm C Central (locking) bolt
B Pinion (adjuster) nut6.5 Alternator sliding arm type adjuster strap
A Adjuster bolt
B Adjuster bracket to engine bolt6.3 Removing the drivebelt splash guard (where fitted)
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