1989 FORD FIESTA stop start

3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened
to the specified torque wrench setting.
4 Refit the wheel covers.
16 Door, tailgate and bonnet
check and lubrication
1
1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
17 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench settings as given in
Chapter 11.
18 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check
1
1The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of
further attention should be done with reference
to the relevant Chapters of this manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.
19 Road test
1
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
2 Check that there is no vibration through the
steering when braking. 3
Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine switched off,
depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal
depressed. Start the engine, and there should
be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is depressed again, it should
be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as
the pedal is depressed. After about four or five
applications, no further hissing should be
heard, and the pedal should feel considerably
firmer.
Steering and suspension
5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
7 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
8 Check the performance of the engine,
transmission and driveshafts.
9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both
when cold and when hot.
10 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine and transmission.
11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
12 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
13 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the drive seems smooth without
jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Ford dealer.
14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint
if necessary.
Clutch
15 Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel, and
that the clutch itself functions correctly, with
no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is
uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable
is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.
16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner
cable, both at the transmission end and inside
the car, for signs of wear and fraying.
Instruments and electrical
equipment
17 Check the operation of all instruments
and electrical equipment.
18 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment
in turn, to check that it functions properly.
20 Automatic transmission fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2 The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is hot (at its
normal operating temperature). If the vehicle
has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in
a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60
to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. In these
circumstances, allow the fluid to cool
down for about 30 minutes.
3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the
handbrake, and start the engine. While the
engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and
move the selector lever through all the gear
positions three times, beginning and ending in
“P”.
4 Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then
(with the engine still idling) remove the
dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and
colour of the fluid on the dipstick.
5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the
cap seats.
6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the
fluid level. The level should be between
the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is
on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add
the specified automatic transmission fluid
through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel
if necessary. It is important not to introduce
dirt into the transmission when topping-up.
7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep
checking the level as previously described
until it is correct. The difference between the
“MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is
approximately 0.4 litres.
8 The need for regular topping-up of the
transmission fluid indicates a leak, which
should be found and rectified without delay.
9 The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid on the
dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown
colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid
should be changed. If you are in doubt about
the condition of the fluid, purchase some new
fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.
1•18Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
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23 Coolant renewal
1
Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, the
coolant need not be renewed for the life of the
vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if
antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in
the system, or simply if you prefer to follow
conventional servicing intervals, the coolant
should be changed periodically (typically,
every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to
“Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this
Section.
Warning: Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Flush
contaminated areas immediately with
plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant,
or leave old coolant lying around, where
it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re
attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of
even a small amount of coolant can be
fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan
spills immediately. Keep antifreeze
containers covered, and repair cooling
system leaks as soon as they’re noticed.
Warning: Never remove the expansion
tank filler cap when the engine is running,
or has just been switched off, as the
cooling system will be hot, and the
consequent escaping steam and scalding
coolant could cause serious injury.
Coolant draining
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure.
1 To drain the system, first remove the
expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly
Checks” ).
2 If additional working clearance is required,
raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see
“Jacking and
Vehicle Support” ).
3 Place a large drain tray beneath the
radiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug -
you can use a small coin to do this, as the
plug’s slotted for this purpose (see
illustration) . Direct as much of the escaping
coolant as possible into the tray.
System flushing
4 With time, the cooling system may gradually
lose its efficiency, as the radiator core
becomes choked with rust, scale deposits
from the water, and other sediment (refer also
to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this
S ection). To minimise this, as well as using
only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft
water, the system should be flushed as follows
whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or
when the coolant is renewed.
5 With the coolant drained, refit the drain
plug, and refill the system with fresh water.
Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the
engine and warm it up to normal operating
temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it
to cool down completely) drain the system
again. Repeat as necessary until only clean
water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally
with the specified coolant mixture as
described below.
6 If only clean, soft water and good-quality
antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification)
has been used, and the coolant has been
renewed at the suggested intervals, the above
procedure will be sufficient to keep the
system clean for a considerable length of
time. If, however, the system has been
neglected, a more thorough operation will be
required, as follows.
7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the
radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a
garden hose into the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clean from the bottom outlet.
8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose
into the thermostat water outlet, and allow
water to circulate until it runs clear from the
bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the
water still does not run clear, the radiator
should be flushed with a good proprietary
cleaning agent.
9 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-
flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To
do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert
it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom
outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs
from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure
can be used to flush the heater matrix.
10 The use of chemical cleaners should be
necessary only as a last resort. Normally,
regular renewal of the coolant will prevent
excessive contamination of the system.
Coolant filling
11 With the cooling system drained and
flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions
are correctly secured, and that the radiator
drain plug is securely tightened. If it was
raised, lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the
specified coolant mixture (see below); allow
for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply
for topping-up.
13 Slowly fill the system through the
expansion tank; since the tank is the highest
point in the system, all the air in the system
should be displaced into the tank by the rising
liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of
air being trapped and forming airlocks.
14 Continue filling until the coolant level
reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line,
then cover the filler opening to prevent
coolant splashing out.
15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed,
until it has warmed-up to normal operating
temperature and the radiator cooling fan has
cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check
for signs of overheating. If the level in the
expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to
the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount
of air circulating in the system.
16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool down
completely (overnight, if possible), then
uncover the expansion tank filler opening and
top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit
the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash
off any spilt coolant from the engine
compartment and bodywork.
17 After refilling, always check carefully all
components of the system (but especially any
unions disturbed during draining and flushing)
for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has
a searching action, which will rapidly expose
any weak points in the system.
18 If, after draining and refilling the system,
symptoms of overheating are found which did
not occur previously, then the fault is almost
certainly due to trapped air at some point in
the system, causing an airlock and restricting
the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
because the system was refilled too quickly.
In some cases, airlocks can be released by
tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the
problem persists, stop the engine and allow it
to cool down completely, before unscrewing
the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting
hoses to bleed out the trapped air.
Antifreeze mixture
19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s
specification, it should always be renewed at
the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or
3 years). This is necessary not only to maintain
the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever
comes first
Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21
23.3 Drain plug location at the base of the radiator - use a coin to unscrew the plug
1
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SEFi fuel injection models
7Disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring
multi-plug (see illustration) .
8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
flexible rubber intake hose from the black
plastic air intake duct (see illustration).
9 Undo the retaining screws or release the
clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete
with mass air flow sensor (see illustration).
All models
10Lift out the element, and wipe out the
housing (see illustrations) . Check that no
foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet
or in the air mass meter, as applicable.
11 If carrying out a routine service, the
element must be renewed regardless of its
apparent condition. Note that on models so
equipped, the small foam PCV filter in the rear
right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing
must be cleaned whenever the air filter
element is renewed (see Section 25).
12 If you are checking the element for any
other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is
oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is
only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after
blowing it clean from the upper to the lower
surface with compressed air. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Because it is a pleated-paper
type filter, it cannot be washed
or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air,
discard and renew it.
Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the
air cleaner filter element removed.
Excessive engine wear could result, and
backfiring could even cause a fire under
the bonnet.
13
Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the element and cover
are securely seated, so that unfiltered air
cannot enter the engine.Air cleaner temperature control
system check (carburettor
models)
14 In order for the engine to operate
efficiently, the temperature of the air entering
the inlet system must be controlled within
certain limits.
15 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one
direct from the outside of the engine
compartment, and the other from a shroud on
the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a
wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a
flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the
ambient air temperature is below a
predetermined level, the flap admits air
heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as
the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens
to admit more cool air from the engine
compartment until eventually it is fully open. A
similar system is used on CVH engines,
except that a vacuum actuator modifies any opening or closing action of the temperature
sensor on the flap valve, according to the level
of the inlet manifold vacuum under running
conditions.
HCS engines
16
This check must be made when the
engine is cold. Detach and remove the air
cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of
the check valve within the duct. When the
underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC,
the valve must be open to allow hot air to
enter the filter (see illustration) .
17 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine
and run it until it reaches its normal operating
temperature, then stop the engine, remove
the inlet trunking and check that the valve has
closed off the air passage from the exhaust
and opened the main (cool) air inlet.
18 If the flap does not operate correctly,
check that it is not seized. Apart from this
there is no adjustment possible, and the unit
should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet
trunking on completion.
CVH engines
19 This check must be made when the
engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet
duct, and visibly check that the flap to the
hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage
of cold air).
20 Start the engine, and check that with the
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•23
24.9 . . . then undo the retaining screws or
release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor24.8 . . . slacken the hose clip and
disconnect the intake hose from the air intake duct . . .24.7 On SEFi fuel injection engines,
disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug . . .
24.16 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe HCS engine
A Main air cleaner inlet (cool air)
B Warm air duct (flap open)
24.10b . . . and on EFi and SEFi fuel injection engine models24.10a Removing the air filter element oncarburettor engine models . . .
1
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Thermostat housing to cylinder head: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 107.5
Water pump retaining bolts: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1813
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Coolant temperature sensor: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2317
CVH engines: 1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1914
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1511
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1511
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 27 15 to 20
Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4
Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
Engine cooling system
The cooling system is of the pressurised
type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to
the radiator. As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated. When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan, mounted behind
the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.
Heating/ventilation system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
2 Antifreeze -
general information
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point. The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.
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position at the carburettor, then secure the
outer cable with its retaining clip.
Adjustment
12To check that the choke cable is correctly
adjusted, the control knob must be pulled out
to the full-on position and the choke lever
must be in contact with its stop. Adjust as
required if necessary.
13 Press the choke knob fully in (to the off
position), then check that the choke linkage at
the carburettor has fully returned to its off
position and the choke valve plate in the
carburettor is at a right angle (90º) to the
venturi.
14 Refit the air cleaner.
15 Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition
on, operate the choke and check that the
choke warning light operates correctly.
7 Fuel pump -
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 Access to the fuel pump on HCS engine models is best gained from underneath the
vehicle
(see illustrations) . Apply the
handbrake, then raise and support it on axle
stands at the front end (see “Jacking and
vehicle support” ).
2 The fuel pump may be tested by
disconnecting the fuel feed pipe from the
carburettor, and placing the pipe’s open end
in a suitable container.
3 Detach the multi-plug from the DIS ignition
coil, or the LT lead from the negative terminal
of the ignition coil, to prevent the engine from
firing.
4 Actuate the starter motor. If the fuel pump
is in good working order, regular well-defined
spurts of fuel should eject from the open end
of the disconnected fuel pipe.
5 If this does not occur, and there is fuel in
the tank, the pump is defective and must be
renewed. The fuel pump is a sealed unit, and
cannot be repaired.
Removal
6 Two types of mechanical fuel pump are
fitted, the application depending on the
engine type. Some models may also be fitted
with a fuel vapour separator (see illustration) ;
if this is removed, its hoses should be labelled
to avoid the possibility of confusion and
incorrect attachment on refitting. 7
To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to
Chapter 5A, Section 1).
8 Where applicable, remove the air cleaner to
improve access to the fuel pump (see Sec-
tion 2).
9 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump, noting their respective connections for
refitting. Where quick-release couplings are
used on the fuel hoses, release the protruding
locking lugs on each union, by squeezing
them together and carefully pulling the
coupling apart. Use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel. Where the unions are colour-coded, the
pipes cannot be confused. Where both unions
are the same colour, note carefully which pipe
is connected to which, and ensure that they
are correctly reconnected on refitting. Plug
the hoses to prevent fuel spillage and the
ingress of dirt.
10 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts
or nuts (as applicable) and remove the fuel
pump.
11 Recover the gasket/spacer (see
illustration) and if required, withdraw the
pump operating pushrod (CVH engines only).
12 Thoroughly clean the mating faces on the
pump and engine.
Refitting
13 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Be
sure to use a new gasket, and tighten the
securing bolts/nuts securely. Ensure that the
hoses are correctly and securely reconnected.
If they were originally secured with crimped
type hose clips, discard them and fit
screw type clips. Where quick-release
couplings are fitted, press them together until
the locking lugs snap into their groove.
14 When the engine is restarted, check
the pump connections for any signs of fuel
leaks.
8 Fuel tank - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 Run the fuel level as low as possible prior to
removing the tank.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Remove the fuel filler cap, then syphon or
pump out the remaining fuel from the fuel tank
(there is no drain plug). The fuel must be
emptied into a suitable container for storage.
4 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the rear roadwheels.
5 Unclip and disconnect the fuel feed and
return hoses located in front of the fuel tank,
and allow any residual fuel to drain into a
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•5
7.6 Fuel pump and fuel vapour separator
arrangement on HCS engine (shown from
below)
7.1b Fuel pump assembly fitted to CVHengines (securing nuts arrowed)
A Fuel feed from tank
B Fuel return to tank
C Fuel feed to carburettor7.1a Fuel pump location on HCS engine (shown from below)
A Fuel inlet hose
B Fuel return hose to tank
C Fuel outlet hose to carburettor
D Pump securing bolts
7.11 Gasket/spacer fitment on HCS
engine. Note position of the lug (arrowed)
4A
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2Remove the filler cap surround (see
illustration) .
3 Disconnect the ventilation tube from the
combined roll-over/anti-trickle-fill valve,
release the ventilation tube from its retaining
clips and detach the valve from the vehicle.
4 Remove the filler pipe securing bolt, then
twist and withdraw the filler pipe unit.
5 Prior to refitting, check the condition of the
filler pipe seal in the fuel tank and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but apply a light smear of grease
to the filler pipe seal to aid filler pipe entry.
12 Carburettor (Weber TLM) -
description
The carburettor is of the single (fixed)
venturi downdraught type, featuring a fixed
size main jet system with a mechanically-
operated accelerator pump and vacuum-
operated power valve to provide optimum
fuelling. A manually-operated choke system is
fitted, featuring a vacuum-operated pull-down
mechanism which brings the choke partially
off during conditions of high manifold
vacuum. An anti-dieseling (fuel cut-off) solenoid
(where fitted) prevents the possibility of
engine run-on when the ignition is switched
off. Idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures are described in Chapter 1, but it
is important to note that accurate adjustments
can only be made using the necessary
equipment.
13 Carburettor (Weber TLM) -
fast-idle speed adjustment
4
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the spark plug gaps
are set as specified, and that all electrical and
vacuum connections are secure. To carry out
checks and adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required.
1 Check the idle speed and mixture settings
are as specified (as described in Chapter 1).
These must be correct before
checking/adjusting the fast-idle speed.
2 With the engine at its normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, remove the air cleaner (if not
already done) as described in Section 2.
3 Actuate the choke by pulling its control
knob fully out, then start the engine.
4 Hold the choke plate open using a 5.0 mm
twist drill held between the plate and the venturi, and record the fast-idle speed
achieved. If adjustment is necessary, turn the
fast-idle adjusting screw until the specified
speed is obtained
(see illustration).
5 Re-check the fast-idle and basic idle
speeds.
6 On satisfactory completion of the
adjustment, stop the engine, disconnect the
tachometer and CO meter then refit the air
cleaner.
7 Remove the bridging wire from the radiator
cooling fan thermal switch multi-plug, and
reconnect the multi-plug to the thermal
switch.
14 Needle valve and float (Weber
TLM carburettor) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. New gaskets and a washer
(seal) will be required when reassembling. A
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will also be required to check the idle
speed and mixture settings on completion.
Removal and refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
3 Clean the exterior of the carburettor, then
disconnect the fuel feed hose.
4 Disconnect the choke cable and the choke
vacuum hose. 5
Remove the four screws securing the
carburettor upper body (two of these screws
are Torx head type), and detach it. Note that
the carburettor lower body is now loose
on the inlet manifold.
6 Tap out the float retaining pin, remove the
float and withdraw the needle valve. Unscrew
the needle valve housing, as required, noting
washer fitment.
7 Inspect the components for damage and
renew as necessary. Check the needle valve
for wear, and check the float assembly for
leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol.
Whilst accessible, clean the float chamber
and jets (refer to Section 17).
8 Using a new washer, refit the needle valve
housing.
9 Refit the needle valve, float and retaining
pin, ensuring that the tag on the float engages
between the ball and clip on the needle valve.
10 Before refitting the carburettor upper
body, check and if necessary adjust the float
level as described in paragraph 15 to 18. Also
check the float and needle valve for full and
free movement.
11 Clean the gasket contact faces (including
the inlet manifold) then, using new gaskets for
the carburettor upper body and the inlet
manifold faces, refit the carburettor upper
body and secure the carburettor assembly to
the inlet manifold.
12 Reconnect the choke vacuum hose. If the
fuel feed hose was originally secured with a
crimped type clip, discard this and secure the
fuel feed hose with a nut and screw type clip.
13 Reconnect and adjust the choke cable,
then refit the air cleaner.
14 Reconnect the battery negative lead, start
and warm up the engine then check the idle
speed and mixture settings as described in
Chapter 1.
Float level adjustment
15 With the carburettor upper body removed
as described in paragraphs 1 to 5 inclusive,
proceed as follows.
16 Hold the carburettor upper body in the
position shown (see illustration) , ensuring
that the needle valve is shut off. Fit the new
upper body gasket to the carburettor upper
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•7
13.4 Fast-idle speed adjusting screw (arrowed) (Weber TLM carburettor)
11.2 Removing the filler cap surround
14.16 Float level adjustment (Weber TLM carburettor)
A Adjusting tag
B Float level setting dimension
4A
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as described in Section 16. The power valve
assembly can also be removed in a similar
fashion.
5Prise free the accelerator pump discharge
tube, but take care not to damage it or the
carburettor body.
6 Remove the jets and emulsion tubes as
required, making careful notes of their
respective locations for reassembly.
Cleaning and inspection
7 Soak out the fuel in the float chamber using
a clean rag; this must be safely disposed of.
Clean the float chamber, jets, drillings and
passages with clean petrol. The careful use of
an air line (or footpump) is ideal to blow out
the upper and lower bodies. Never use a
piece of wire for cleaning purposes.
8 Examine all of the carburettor components
for signs of damage or wear, paying particular
attention to the diaphragms, throttle spindle
and plates, and needle valve. Renew all
diaphragms, sealing washers and gaskets as
a matter of course.
Reassembly
9 Refit the emulsion tubes and jets to their
locations as noted during dismantling.
10 Refit the accelerator pump discharge
tube.
11 Refit the accelerator pump and power
valve assemblies as described in Section 16.
12 Refit the needle valve and the float, and
adjust the float setting as described in Sec-
tion 14.
13 Locate a new gasket onto the mating
face, then refit the carburettor upper body to
the main body. As they are reassembled, take
care not to snag the float on the carburettor
main body. Fit and tighten the retaining
screws to secure.
14 On completion, refit the carburettor as
described in Section 15.
18 Carburettor (Weber TLDM) -
description
The carburettor is of twin venturi,
downdraught type, featuring a fixed size main
jet system, adjustable idle system, a
mechanically-operated accelerator pump, and
a vacuum-operated power valve. A manually-
operated cold start choke is fitted, and a
throttle kicker is used on certain models.
In order to comply with emission control
regulations and maintain good fuel
consumption, the main jets are calibrated to
suit the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range. The power
valve is therefore only used to supply
additional fuel during full-throttle conditions. The accelerator pump is fitted to ensure a
smooth transmission from the idle circuit to
the main jet system. As the accelerator pedal
is depressed, a linkage moves the diaphragm
within the accelerator pump, and a small quantity of fuel is injected into the venturi, to
prevent a momentary weak mixture and
resultant engine hesitation.
The manually-operated choke features a
vacuum-operated pull-down mechanism
which controls the single choke plate under
certain vacuum conditions. On CTX automatic transmission models,
the throttle kicker acts as an idle speed
compensator for when the transmission shift
lever positions R, D or L are selected. The
throttle kicker is operated by vacuum supplied
from the inlet manifold. When the appropriate
transmission shift lever position is selected,
the throttle kicker control solenoid allows the
vacuum to pass to the throttle kicker which
maintains the idle speed by means of a
diaphragm and mechanical linkage. On manual transmission models, the
throttle kicker (when fitted) acts as a damper
by slowing down the closing action of the
throttle plate. Under deceleration, this
maintains the combustion of the air/fuel
mixture entering the cylinders, thus improving
the exhaust emission levels. A vacuum
sustain valve controls the carburettor-sourced
vacuum applied to the throttle kicker unit; this
allows the vacuum slowly to decay, allowing
normal engine idling speed to be achieved. An anti-dieseling (fuel cut-off) solenoid is
fitted to prevent the possibility of the engine
running on after the ignition is switched off. Idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures are described in Chapter 1, but it
is important to note that accurate adjustments
can only be made using the necessary
equipment.
19 Carburettor (Weber TLDM) -
fast-idle speed adjustment
4
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the spark plug gaps
are set as specified, and that all electrical and
vacuum connections are secure. To carry out
checks and adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required.
1 Check the idle speed and mixture settings are as specified (as described in Chapter 1).
These must be correct before
checking/adjusting the fast-idle speed.
2
With the engine at its normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, switch the engine off, then
remove the air cleaner (if not already done) as
described in Section 2.
3 Actuate the choke by pulling the control
knob fully out, then start the engine and note
the engine fast-idle speed. Compare it with
the specified speed.
4 If adjustment is required, turn the fast-idle
adjusting screw clockwise to decrease, or
anti-clockwise to increase, the fast-idle speed
(see illustration) .
5 Recheck the fast-idle and basic idle
speeds.
6 On completion of the adjustment, stop the
engine, detach the tachometer and CO meter,
reconnect the radiator cooling fan lead, and
refit the air cleaner.
20 Needle valve and float (Weber
TLDM carburettor) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. New gaskets and a washer
(seal) will be required when reassembling. A
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will also be required to check the
idle speed and mixture settings on
completion.
Removal and refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
3 Clean the exterior of the carburettor, then
disconnect the fuel supply hose and the anti-
dieseling solenoid wiring.
4 Disconnect the choke control cable.
5 Undo and remove the six retaining screws
(four of which are Torx type) and carefully lift
the carburettor upper body clear (see
illustrations) .
6 Invert and support the upper body of the
carburettor for access to the float and pivot.
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•9
19.4 Fast-idle speed adjusting screw (arrowed) (Weber TLDM carburettor)
4A
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20.5a Remove the carburettor upper body securing screws . . .
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Lightly tap out the float pivot pin, then
withdraw the float, taking care not to distort
the arms of the float (see illustrations).
7 Unscrew the needle valve housing, and
extract it from the carburettor upper body.
Collect the washer from the threads of the
needle valve housing.
8 Clean and inspect the components for
signs of damage or wear, particularly the pivot
holes in the float arm. Check the float for signs
of leakage, by shaking it to see if it contains
fuel. Clean the float chamber and jets (refer to
Section 24 for details). Renew any
components as necessary.
9 Fit a new washer over the needle valve
housing threads, and then carefully screw the
valve unit into position in the upper body.
10 Refit the needle valve, float and retaining
pin, ensuring that the tag on the float engages
with the ball and clip of the needle valve.
11 Before refitting the upper body to the
carburettor, check and if necessary adjust the
float level as described in paragraphs 16
to 18. Also check the float and needle valve
for free movement.
12 Clean the gasket contact faces, then
locate a new gasket and refit the upper body
to the carburettor.
13 Reconnect the fuel supply hose, anti-
dieseling solenoid wiring and the choke cable.
Adjust the choke cable as described in
Section 6. If the fuel hose was originally
secured with a crimped type clip, discard it
and fit a screw type clip. 14
Refit the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
15 Reconnect the battery earth lead, then
restart the engine and check the idle speed
and mixture settings. Adjust if necessary as
described in Chapter 1.
Float level adjustment
16 With the carburettor upper body removed
as described in paragraphs 1 to 5 inclusive,
proceed as follows.
17 Support the carburettor upper body
vertically, ensuring that the needle valve is
shut off. Locate the new upper body gasket
onto the carburettor upper body, then
measure the distance between the gasket and
the bottom of the float (see illustration).
18 If the measurement is not as specified,
adjust the setting by carefully bending the tag
on the float as required, then recheck.
19 Refit with reference to paragraphs 12
to 15 inclusive.
21 Throttle kicker unit (Weber TLDM carburettor) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
4
Note: A tachometer and exhaust gas analyser
(CO meter) will be required to check and make
any adjustment necessary.
Removal and refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer to Section 2 and remove the air
cleaner.
3 Detach the vacuum hose from the kicker
unit. Undo the two retaining screws, detach
the linkage and remove the kicker unit (see
illustration) .
4 Refitting the kicker unit is a reversal of the
removal procedure. If the unit is to be
checked for adjustment, loosely locate the air
cleaner, reconnect the inlet air temperature
sensor multi-plug and the battery earth lead,
then proceed as follows.
Adjustment
5 Start and run the engine up to its normal
operating temperature (at which point the
cooling fan will start to operate) then switch
the engine off.
6 Remove the air cleaner again, then detach
the wiring connector of the cooling fan
thermostatic switch. Bridge the terminals in
the connector with a suitable piece of wire to
actuate the cooling fan and keep it running.
Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm for
30 seconds to stabilise it, then release the
throttle and check (and if necessary adjust)
the idle speed and mixture settings as
described in Chapter 1. Stop the engine.
4A•10 Fuel system – carburettor engines
21.3 General view of throttle kicker
arrangement (Weber TLDM carburettor)
A Tamperproof plug covering adjusting point
B Throttle kicker securing screws
C Vacuum supply pipe20.17 Float level adjustment (Weber TLDM carburettor)
A Float level setting dimension
B Adjusting tag
20.6c Remove the needle valve housing and its washer
20.6b . . . then detach the float and needle valve20.6a Slide out the float retaining pin . . .20.5b . . . then detach the carburettorupper body
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