1989 FORD FIESTA stop start

accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
8Start the engine, bring it up to normal
operating temperature and allow it to idle.
9 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
distributor and fit blanking plugs.
10 If the timing light is now directed at the
engine timing marks, the pulley notch will
appear to be stationary and opposite the
specified mark on the scale. If the marks are
not in alignment, release the distributor clamp
bolts slightly and turn the distributor body in
whichever direction is necessary to align the
pulley notch to the appropriate scale mark.
Tighten the clamp bolts fully when the setting
is correct.
11 Using a suitable punch, re-mark the
cylinder head and/or the distributor flange to
indicate the new distributor timing position for
any future repair operations.
12 The operation of the centrifugal advance
weights in the distributor can be checked by
increasing the engine speed with the timing
light pointing at the engine timing marks and
observing that the pulley notch advances from
its initial position.
13 To check the vacuum advance, run the
engine at a fast idle speed and reconnect the vacuum pipe. The pulley notch should again
advance.
14
Stop the engine, disconnect the
tachometer and timing light and reconnect the
vacuum pipe. Refit the timing aperture cover.
15 If the timing notch did not appear to move
during the centrifugal advance check, a fault
in the distributor centrifugal advance
mechanism is indicated. No increased
movement of the notch during the vacuum
advance check indicate a punctured
diaphragm in the vacuum unit, or a leak in the
vacuum line.
16 On completion of the adjustments and
checks, switch the engine off, disconnect the
timing light and ensure that the distributor
vacuum pipe is securely connected.
Distributor ignition systems (pre-
September 1990 CVH engines with
CFi fuel injection)
Note: When an engine is timed in production
it is set, using a microwave timing system, to
an accuracy of within half a degree. Unless it
is essential, do not remove the distributor or
alter the ignition timing. If no distributor timing
position punch marks are present on the
cylinder head and distributor body flange, make your own before disturbing the setting
(see illustration 8.2)
.
17 The method of obtaining correct ignition
timing, with both original punch marks
present, is described in paragraph 3 above.
18 If (due to component renewal) one or both
of the punch marks is missing, an
approximate ignition timing setting can be
obtained to enable starting of the engine by
following the instruction given in Section 8,
paragraph 16.
19 Accurate ignition timing adjustment can
only be carried out using specialised
equipment - this is a task for your Ford dealer
or other suitably equipped specialist. The
reason for this is that the EEC IV engine
management module has to “lock” its internal
ignition advance compensations and its idle
speed control whilst the timing is set. The
“locking” of the EEC IV module is performed
in “self-test” mode when connected to the
Ford STAR test (Self-Test Automatic Readout)
equipment, which is also used to access fault
codes stored in the module memory and
analyse the performance of the system
components. New punch marks should be
made after accurate timing has been carried
out, as necessary.
5B•8 Ignition system
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13 Hydraulic system- bleeding
(conventional braking system)
3
Note: For vehicles equipped with an anti-lock
braking system, refer to Section 14. Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in
the case of skin contact, and
seek immediate medical advice if any fluid
is swallowed or gets into the eyes. Certain
types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable,
and may ignite when allowed into contact
with hot components; when servicing any
hydraulic system, it is safest to assume
that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as
though it is petrol that is being handled.
Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint
stripper, and will attack plastics; if any is
spilt, it should be washed off immediately,
using copious quantities of clean water.
Finally, it is hygroscopic (it absorbs
moisture from the air). The more moisture
is absorbed by the fluid, the lower its
boiling point becomes, leading to a
dangerous loss of braking under hard use.
Old fluid may be contaminated and unfit
for further use. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended type, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.
1 The correct operation of any hydraulic
system is only possible after removing all air
from the components and circuit; and this is
achieved by bleeding the system.
2 During the bleeding procedure, add only
clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the
recommended type; never re-use fluid that
has already been bled from the system.
Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before
starting work.
3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being already in the system, the brake
components and circuit must be flushed
completely with uncontaminated, correct
fluid, and new seals should be fitted
throughout the system.
4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
system, or air has entered because of a leak,
ensure that the fault is cured before
proceeding further.
5 Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake. Switch off the engine, then
(where applicable) depress the brake pedal
several times to dissipate the vacuum from
the servo unit. Note:When bleeding the
system, the vehicle must maintain a level
attitude, ie not tilted in any manner, to ensure
that air is not trapped within the pressure
control valves. During certain operations in
this manual, instructions are given to bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the front or the
rear of the vehicle raised. In such cases raise
the rest of the vehicle so that it maintains a level attitude, but only if it is safe to do so. If it
is not possible to achieve this safely, complete
the remainder of the operation and bleed the
brake hydraulic system with the vehicle on its
wheels.
6
Check that all pipes and hoses are secure,
unions tight and bleed screws closed.
Remove the dust caps (where applicable), and
clean any dirt from around the bleed screws.
7 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Top-up the reservoir with the
specified fluid to the “Maximum” level (see
“Weekly Checks” ). Remember to maintain the
fluid level at least above the “Minimum” level
line throughout the procedure, otherwise
there is a risk of further air entering the
system.
8 There are a number of one-man, do-it-
yourself brake bleeding kits currently available
from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
whenever possible, as they greatly simplify
the bleeding operation, and also reduce the
risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back
into the system. If such a kit is not available,
the basic (two-man) method must be used,
which is described in detail below.
9 If a kit is to be used, prepare the vehicle as
described previously, and follow the kit
manufacturer’s instructions, as the procedure
may vary slightly according to the type being
used; generally, they are as outlined below in
the relevant sub-section.
10 Whichever method is used, the same
sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11
and 12) to ensure the removal of all air from
the system.
Bleeding sequence
11 If the system has been only partially
disconnected, and suitable precautions were
taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be
necessary to bleed only that part of the
system (ie the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then
it is suggested that you work in the following
sequence: a) Right-hand front wheel.
b) Left-hand rear wheel.
c) Left-hand front wheel.
d) Right-hand rear wheel.
Bleeding - basic (two-man)
method
13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length
of plastic or rubber tubing which is a tight fit
over the bleed screw, and a ring spanner to fit
the screw. The help of an assistant will also be
required.
14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw
in the sequence (if not already done). Fit a
suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place
the other end of the tube in the jar, and pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube.
15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
“Minimum” level throughout the procedure.
16
Have the assistant fully depress the brake
pedal several times to build up pressure, then
maintain it down on the final downstroke.
17 While pedal pressure is maintained,
unscrew the bleed screw (approximately one
turn) and allow the compressed fluid and air to
flow into the jar. The assistant should maintain
pedal pressure, following the pedal down to
the floor if necessary, and should not
release the pedal until instructed to do so.
When the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw
again. Have the assistant release the pedal
slowly, and recheck the reservoir fluid level.
18 Repeat the steps given in paragraphs 16
and 17 until the fluid emerging from the bleed
screw is free from air bubbles. If the master
cylinder has been drained and refilled, and air
is being bled from the first screw in the
sequence, allow at least five seconds between
cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill.
19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighten
the bleed screw securely, remove the tube
and spanner, and refit the dust cap (where
applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed
screw.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
screws in the sequence, until all air is
removed from the system and the brake pedal
feels firm again.
Bleeding - using a one-way
valve kit
21 As their name implies, these kits consist of
a length of tubing with a one-way valve fitted,
to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn
back into the system; some kits include a
translucent container, which can be positioned
so that the air bubbles can be more easily
seen flowing from the end of the tube.
22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw,
which is then opened (see illustration). The
user returns to the driver’s seat, depresses
the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke,
and slowly releases it; this is repeated until
the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles.
23 Note that these kits simplify work so
much that it is easy to forget the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this is
maintained at least above the “Minimum” level
at all times.
9•10 Braking system
13.22 Bleeding the hydraulic system using a one-way valve kit
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needed not to spill the fluid onto the hands -
wear suitable protective gloves. Plug or cap
the disconnected pipes and valve openings,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fluid loss.
4Unbolt the valve from its mounting bracket,
unhook the linkage from the rear axle, then
withdraw the valve (see illustration). The
intermediate bracket may be unbolted if
required.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; adjust the valve as described in
Section 22, then bleed the complete hydraulic
system as described in Section 13. Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
22 Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment
2
Note:To adjust the valve accurately, the
vehicle must be at a known rear axle loading -
owners who cannot determine the loading
with sufficient accuracy must have this check
made by a Ford dealer or similar expert.
1 For this operation, the vehicle must be
raised for access underneath at the rear, but
must be standing on its wheels. Suitable
ramps (or an inspection pit) will therefore be
required. If positioning the vehicle on a pair of
ramps, chock the front roadwheels.
2 Measure the distance between the inner
radius of the linkage’s hooked end and the
first shoulder (see illustration) . If the
dimension is not as specified for the axle
loading, adjustment is required.
3 To adjust the setting, slacken the locknut
on the valve linkage, move the rod until the
setting is correct, then tighten the locknut
securely (see illustration) . Check the
operation of the brakes before taking the
vehicle out on the road.
23 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information
A mechanically-driven, two-channel anti-
lock braking system is available as a factory-
fitted option on certain model variants within
the Fiesta range.
The system comprises four main
components; two modulators, one for each
brake circuit, and two rear axle load-
apportioning valves, again, one for each brake
circuit. Apart from the additional hydraulic
piping, the remainder of the braking system is
the same as for conventional models. The modulators are located in the engine
compartment with one mounted on each side
of the transmission, directly above the
driveshaft inner constant velocity joints. Each
modulator contains a shaft which actuates a
flywheel by means of a ball and ramp clutch. A rubber toothed belt is used to drive the
modulator shaft from the driveshaft inner
constant velocity joint.
During driving and under normal braking
the modulator shaft and the flywheel rotate
together and at the same speed through the
engagement of a ball and ramp clutch. In this
condition hydraulic pressure from the master
cylinder passes to the modulators and then to
each brake in the conventional way. In the
event of a front wheel locking the modulator
shaft rotation will be less than that of the
flywheel and the flywheel will overrun the ball
and ramp clutch. This causes the flywheel to
slide on the modulator shaft, move inward and
operate a lever which in turn opens a dump
valve. Hydraulic pressure to the locked brake
is released via a de-boost piston allowing the
wheel to once again revolve. Fluid passed
through the dump valve is returned to the
master cylinder reservoir via the modulator
return hoses. At the same time hydraulic
pressure from the master cylinder causes a
pump piston to contact an eccentric cam on
the modulator shaft. The flywheel is then
decelerated at a controlled rate by the
flywheel friction clutch. When the speed of the
modulator shaft and flywheel are once again
equal the dump valve closes and the cycle
repeats. This complete operation takes place
many times a second until the vehicle stops or
the brakes are released. The load-apportioning valves are mounted
on a common bracket attached to the rear
body, just above the rear axle twist beam
location, and are actuated by linkages
attached to the axle beam. The valves
regulate hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes,
in accordance with vehicle load and attitude,
so that the braking force available at the rear
brakes will always be lower than that available
at the front. A belt-break warning switch is fitted to the
cover which surrounds each modulator
drivebelt. The switch contains an arm which is
in contact with the drivebelt at all times. If the
belt should break, or if the adjustment of
the belt is too slack, the arm will move out
closing the switch contacts and informing the
driver via an instrument panel warning light.
24 Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal
and refitting
3
Modulator
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap, then remove the
filler cap. Note that the filler cap must not be
inverted. Place a piece of plastic film over the
reservoir and seal it with an elastic band.
3 Disconnect the modulator return hoses
from the master cylinder reservoir, collecting
any fluid spillage from the hoses in a suitable
tray. The modulator return hose unions should
be disconnected by first pushing the hose
into the reservoir, then retaining the collar
against the reservoir body whilst withdrawing
the hose. Note that the hoses are colour
coded - the left-hand modulator has a black
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the forward section of the reservoir,
whilst the right-hand modulator has a grey
return hose and connector, and should be
fitted to the rear section of the reservoir.
9•14 Braking system
22.3 Light-laden valve linkage adjustment locknut (arrowed)
22.2 Light-laden valve adjustment details
With rear axle load at 400 kg, “X” should be 147 mm
With rear axle load at 850 kg,
“X” should be 166 mm
21.4 Light-laden valve mounting bolts (arrowed)
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Refitting
All models
38Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. Remove the plugs from the
disconnected pipes, hoses and unions
and ensure that the pipes are located
correctly so that they do not foul any
surrounding components.
b) Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
c) Where drained, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.
d) Refit or reconnect any additional
components removed for access as
described in the relevant Sections and
Chapters of this manual.
e) On completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section
27. Check for any signs of fluid leakage
from the system hoses and connections.
26 Power steering fluid cooler -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering fluid cooler hose connections,
then disconnect the hoses at the quick-fit
couplings on the fluid cooler. Allow the fluid to
drain from the hose and reservoir into the
container.
3 Plug the exposed ends of the hose and the
reservoir, to prevent the ingress of dirt and
excessive fluid loss.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the bonnet
lock assembly and the front bumper.
5 Undo the bolts securing the cooler side
support bracket and the bonnet lock stay, and
remove the fluid cooler and bonnet lock stay
as an assembly.
6 Undo the two bolts and remove the stay
from the fluid cooler.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section 27.
27 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding
2
1Following any operation in which the power
steering fluid lines have been disconnected,
the power steering system must be bled to
remove any trapped air.
2 With the front wheel in the straight-ahead
position, check the power steering fluid level
in the reservoir and, if low, top-up with fresh fluid to the “MAX” or “MAX COLD” level mark.
Pour the fluid slowly to prevent air bubbles
forming, and use only the specified fluid (refer
to
“Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures” ).
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
the hoses and connections for leaks.
4 Stop the engine and recheck the fluid level.
Add more, if necessary, up to the “MAX” or
“MAX COLD” level mark.
5 Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then
bleed the system by slowly moving the
steering from lock-to-lock several times. This
should purge the system of all internal air.
However, if air remains in the system
(indicated by the steering operation being very
noisy), leave the vehicle overnight and repeat
the procedure again the next day.
6 If air still remains in the system, it may be
necessary to resort to the Ford method of
bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump and a
modified reservoir filler cap to which the pump
can be connected. Turn the steering to the
right until it is near the stop, then fit the
vacuum pump to the fluid reservoir, and apply
0.51 bars of vacuum. Maintain the vacuum for
a minimum of 5 minutes, then repeat
the procedure with the steering turned to the
left.
7 Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout
the bleeding procedure; note that the fluid
temperature increases, the level will rise.
8 On completion, switch the engine off, and
return the wheels to the straight-ahead
position.
28 Track rod end balljoint -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Using a suitable spanner, slacken the track
rod end balljoint locknut on the track rod by a
quarter of a turn only (see illustration). Holdthe balljoint stationary with another spanner
engaged with the flats at its inner end to
prevent it from turning.
3
Extract the split pin, then loosen off the
retaining nut. If the balljoint is to be renewed,
the nut can be fully removed. If the existing
balljoint is to be reconnected, the nut should
be slackened off a couple of turns only at first,
and left in position to protect the joint threads
as the joint is separated from the spindle
carrier. To release the tapered shank of the
joint from the spindle carrier, use a balljoint
separator tool as shown (see illustration). If
the joint is to be re-used, take care not to
damage the rubber dust cover when using a
separator tool.
4 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod,
counting the number of turns necessary to
remove it.
Refitting
5 Screw the balljoint into the track rod the
number of turns noted during removal until the
balljoint just contacts the locknut. Now tighten
the locknut while holding the balljoint.
6 Engage the shank of the balljoint with the
spindle carrier arm, and refit the retaining nut.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque and
secure with a new split pin.
7 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
8 Finally, have the front wheel toe setting
checked (see Section 29).
29 Wheel alignment and steering angles - general
information
4
General
1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles
are expressed in degrees (toe settings are
also expressed as a measurement); the
relevant settings are camber, castor, steering
axis inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.
Suspension and steering 10•17
28.3 Balljoint separator tool in position.
Note that the nut should be left loosely in position to protect the thread for re-use28.2 Track rod end balljoint showing the locknut (A) retaining flats (B) and the
balljoint-to-spindle carrier arm retaining
nut and split pin (C)
10
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almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area,
and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes.
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suitable adhesive; it is recommended that this
task be left to a Ford dealer or similar expert.
15To remove the window glass, remove their
retaining screws and withdraw the lock
assemblies, slide the front glass as far to the
rear as possible, then prise up and withdraw
the front glass guide; it will be necessary to
pull the last part of the guide from under the
glass.
16 Withdraw the vertical seal and two
support blocks from between the two glasses,
slide the seal to the front of the frame, and
withdraw it. Slide each glass in turn
to the front of the frame and withdraw it,
then prise up and withdraw the rear glass
guide.
Refitting
17 On refitting, check that the glass guides
are undamaged; renew them if necessary.
Ensure that the lock assemblies are removed
from both glasses.
18 Press the rear glass guide into place. Refit
first the rear glass, fitting it to the front of the
frame and sliding it to the rear, then the front
glass, in the same way.
19 To refit the vertical seal, sandwich it
between two strips of thin sheet metal and
install it, with its support blocks, first in the
front part of the frame, then push it into place.
This will require some effort as the glass is
reached, due to the distortion caused by the
location notch on the block. When the seal is
fully in place, withdraw the metal strips, and
check that the seal’s lips have not folded back
on themselves.
20 When refitting the front glass guide, locate
it first around the frame’s detent catch, then
slide it under the glass using soapy water as a
lubricant.
21 Refit the lock assemblies, clean the
glasses, and check the operation of the
windows and locks.
34 Windscreen and tailgate window glass -
removal and refitting
4
Note : The DIY mechanic is advised to leave
windscreen/tailgate window glass removal
and refitting to an expert. For those with the
necessary tools and equipment, the
following paragraphs are a guide to the
procedure.
Removal
1 Remove the windscreen/tailgate wiper arms
as described in Chapter 12.
2 If removing the windscreen, remove both A-
pillar trims, and release the front of the
headlining by removing the sun visors and
courtesy light. If a heated windscreen is fitted,
disconnect its electrical contacts at the
windscreen. If removing the tailgate window
glass, disconnect the wiring to the heating
element. 3
As a precautionary measure to prevent
damage to the paintwork, cover the
surrounding bodywork with an old blanket or
similar.
4 Using a suitable tool, release the
weatherseal from the top and sides of the
body aperture flange before exerting pressure
from the inside of the vehicle to remove the
assembly. It is strongly advised that an
assistant outside the vehicle is ready to
receive the glass as it is pushed out.
5 With the assembly removed from the
vehicle, detach the weatherseal from the
windscreen/tailgate glass.
Refitting
6 With reference to the procedures described
for the fixed side window glass in Section 33,
clean the weatherseal, then refit in
accordance with the rest of that Section.
7 Any trim and equipment removed during
preparation should now be refitted.
35 Sunroof panel -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Open the sunroof fully using the handwheel.
2 Detach the sunroof from its rearward
mounting point by pressing in the red locking
bar on the handwheel, then raise it and
remove.
Refitting
3 To refit, engage the hinges in their
locations, in the forward edge of the sunroof
opening, then lower the sunroof. Allow the
handwheel to click into its safety lock.
4 Check that the safety lock mechanism
retains the panel securely.
5 Close the sunroof fully using the
handwheel.
36 Sunroof panel seal -
renewal
1
1 Remove the sunroof panel, as described in
Section 35, then lay the panel on a soft cloth.
2 Remove the two hinge plate assemblies
from the panel by undoing the hinge plate
retaining screws.
3 Pull the seal from the panel edge, noting the
position of its join.
4 Starting from the position of the original
join, press the seal into position, ensuring that
it sits evenly right around. Adjust as necessary
so that the ends butt tightly together.
5 Refit the two hinge plate assemblies to the
panel.
6 Refit the sunroof panel, as described in
Section 35.
37 Sunroof weatherseal -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the sunroof panel, as described in
Section 35.
2 Starting from the joint on the rearward
opening edge, pull the seal up and remove.
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the weatherseal
does not deform at the corners, or split at the
joint.
38 Full-length sunroof -
general information
1 The full-length sunroof is electrically-
operated, the operating system consisting of
the motor and the roof-mounted switch. The
circuit is fed via fuses 18 and 28 from the
ignition switch; switch illumination is via
fuse 6.
2 All components are mounted in the roof of
the passenger compartment, above the
headlining at the front of the vehicle.
3 To open the sunroof, press the switch
lightly on the upper side; to close it, check
first that the opening is completely
unobstructed, and press the switch on the
lower side.
4 Maintenance is confined to checking for
freedom of action and a snug fit when shut.
Check that the seals are in good clean
condition and not scratched or damaged.
5 Owners must note the following to ensure
that the maximum trouble-free life from this
feature:
a) It is normal for the motor to slow down as
the sunroof approaches full opening.
b) If the sunroof stops before it is fully
opened in cold weather, this may be due
to the material being too hard to fold
correctly; do not force the sunroof open if
this is suspected.
c) If the material does not fold correctly on
opening at any time, close the sunroof
again, correct the folds by hand, and try
again.
d) Never open or close the sunroof with the
vehicle travelling at more than 70 mph
(120 km/h), and never allow passengers to
travel standing up or with any part of their
bodies in the opening.
e) Ensure that any collected water, snow or ice is removed from the sunroof before
opening it. Check that the deflector is
clear of water, particularly after washing
the vehicle; sponge it dry if necessary.
f) Never place heavy objects on the sunroof or its surrounds.
g) The sunroof should be cleaned frequently
11•16 Bodywork and fittings
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BulbsWattage
Headlight (halogen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . H4, 60/55
Sidelight (front) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 5
Direction indicators (main) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Side direction indicator repeaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Auxiliary driving and foglights (S and XR2i) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3, 55
Stop/tail light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 21/5
Rear foglight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 21
Reversing light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 21
Number plate light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 10
Interior light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 10
Luggage compartment light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Instrument warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
1.3 or 2.6
Panel illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 1.3 or 2.6
Cigarette lighter illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4
Automatic transmission selector illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Lubricants
Grease for windscreen wiper linkage and pivots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . To Ford specification SAM-1C-911-A
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Wiper motor to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 8 to 9 6 to 7
Wiper motor bracket to bulkhead/tailgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 to 8 4 to 6
Windscreen wiper crank to driving shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 24 16 to 18
Windscreen/tailgate wiper arm retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 to 18 12 to 13
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Windscreen/tailgate washer reservoir securing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 3.5 2 to 3
Headlight retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 5.4 to 7.0 4 to 5
Tail light securing nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1.5 to 2.5 1 to 2
Auxiliary light retaining nut (S models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 to 9.2 5 to 7
Horn bracket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 33 18 to 24
Starter inhibitor switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 9 to 14 7 to 10
Body electrical systems 12•3
12
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid battery, which is charged by the
engine-driven alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, ignition system,
alternator, and starter motor can be found in
Chapter 5A and B.
All models from 1994 onwards are fitted
with a driver’s air bag, which is designed to
prevent serious chest and head injuries to the
driver during an accident. A similar bag for the
front seat passenger is also available. The
combined sensor and electronics for the air
bag is located next to the steering column
inside the vehicle, and contains a back-up
capacitor, crash sensor, decelerometer,
safety sensor, integrated circuit and
microprocessor. The air bag is inflated by a
gas generator, which forces the bag out of the module cover in the centre of the steering
wheel. A “clock spring” ensures that a good
electrical connection is maintained with the air
bag at all times - as the steering wheel is
turned in each direction, the spring winds and
unwinds.
An anti-theft alarm system is available on
later models, and is triggered if the vehicle is
broken into through the doors, bonnet, or
tailgate. The alarm will also be triggered if the
ignition or audio equipment is tampered with.
Additionally, from the 1994 model year
onwards, a Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
is fitted. This system, (which works
independently of the standard alarm) prevents
the engine from being started unless a
specific code, programmed into the ignition
key, is recognised by the PATS transceiver.
Precautions
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this manual and
in Chapter 5A, Section 1.
Caution: Prior to working on any
component in the electrical system, the
battery negative lead should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires. If a
radio/cassette player with anti-theft
security code is fitted, refer to the
information given in the reference sections
of this manual before disconnecting the
battery.
2 Electrical fault-finding
-
general information
2
Note: Refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter
before starting work. The following tests relate
to testing of the main electrical circuits, and
should not be used to test delicate electronic
circuits (such as engine management
systems), particularly where an electronic
control unit is used. Also refer to the
precautions given in Chapter 5A, Section 1.
General
1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
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windows (early models) and the tailgate
remote release mechanism, where fitted.
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 To remove a switch, carefully prise it from
its location using a thin flat-bladed
screwdriver, then disconnect the multi-plug
(see illustrations) .
21 To refit, connect the multi-plug then push
home to secure.
Heater fan motor control switch
22 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
23 Pull the heater fan motor control knob off,
then move the air distribution and
temperature controls fully to the right. Unclip
and remove the heater slide facia towards the
left-hand side of the vehicle, removing the
slide control knobs only as necessary, and
disconnecting its bulbholder (bayonet type) as
it is withdrawn (see illustration) .
24 Squeeze the two release tabs together on
the heater fan motor control switch, and
remove it, disconnecting its multi-plug as it is
withdrawn.
25 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Brake stop-light switch
26The brake stop-light switch is attached to
the brake pedal mounting bracket.
27 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the
switch, then twist the switch through a quarter
of a turn (90º) anticlockwise and withdraw it
from the bracket. 28
Insert the switch into its retainer, press it
lightly against the brake pedal until all free
play is just taken up, then turn the switch
clockwise to secure. Reconnect the switch
wiring connector and the battery.
Handbrake warning light
switch
29 Push the carpet mounding down as
necessary to gain access to the switch,
located on the handbrake lever.
30 Remove the cover, then disconnect the
warning light switch wiring multi-plug (see
illustration) . Undo the two screws securing
the switch to the handbrake lever assembly
and remove the switch.
31 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Low brake fluid level warning
light switch
32This is incorporated into the brake fluid
reservoir cap, and senses fluid level in the
reservoir. It cannot be renewed separately
from the cap.
33 To remove, disconnect the warning
indicator loom multi-plug and unscrew the
reservoir cap.
34 Refit by reversing the removal procedure.
Courtesy light switches
35Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
36 With the door open, undo the retaining
screw and withdraw the switch from the door
pillar. Pull out the wiring slightly, and tie a piece of string to it, so that it can be retrieved
if it drops down into the door pillar.
37
Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Reversing light switch
39Refer to Chapter 7A, Section 6.
Starter inhibitor switch
(automatic transmission)
40Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
41 The starter inhibitor switch is located on
the transmission housing, and prevents the
engine from being started with the selector
lever in any position except “P” or “N”.
Access to the switch is gained after raising
and supporting the vehicle at the front end on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support” ).
42 Detach the switch multi-plug, then
unscrew and remove the switch from the
transmission, together with its O-ring. As the
switch is removed, catch any fluid spillage in a
suitable container, and plug the switch
aperture in the transmission to prevent any
further loss.
43 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use a new O-ring, and tighten the
switch securely. Ensure that the wiring
connection is securely made. On completion,
check and if necessary top-up the automatic
transmission fluid (see Chapter 1) then check
that the engine only starts when the selector
is in the “P” or “N” position.
Luggage area contact plate
44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
45 Open the tailgate and release the contact
plate side retaining clips using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. Push the contact plate from its
location in the body.
46 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug and
remove the plate (see illustration).
47 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Luggage area contact switch
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
49 Open the tailgate and remove its inner
trim panel (see Chapter 11).
12•6 Body electrical systems
4.46 Withdrawing the luggage area
contact plate for access to disconnect the
multi-plug4.30 Removing the cover from thehandbrake warning light switch
4.23 Heater fan motor control switch removal4.20b . . . then disconnect its multiplugand remove the switch4.20a Prise the centre console switch up from its location . . .
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