1989 FORD FIESTA track rod joint

10If adjustment to the mixture is required,
the tamperproof cap will need to be removed
from the carburettor to gain access to the
mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel
trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then
remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the
crankcase ventilation trap remains connected.
Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of
a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the
vacuum and emissions control pipes
connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit
temporarily into position.
11 Turn the mixture adjustment screw
clockwise to weaken the mixture, or
anti-clockwise to richen it, until the CO
reading is as given in the Specifications. If a
CO meter is not being used, weaken the
mixture as described, then enrich the mixture until the maximum engine speed is obtained,
consistent with even running.
12
If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then
check the CO reading again. Repeat as
necessary until both the idle speed and CO
reading are correct.
13 Where required by law (as in some
European countries), fit a new tamperproof
cap to the mixture adjustment screw.
14 Disconnect the tachometer and the CO
meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect
the fan switch lead to complete.
Base idle speed and mixture
check and adjustment - 1.6 litre
EFi engines
15 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive, then continue as
follows.
16 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature and
the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content
of the exhaust, and compare it against the
specified reading. If the CO content reading is
incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free
the tamperproof cap for access to the mixture
CO adjustment screw (see illustration), and
turning the screw in the required direction to
suit.
17 The operational idle speed is controlled by
the EEC IV engine management module and is
not adjustable. However, if the base idle
speed is incorrect, the module will not have an
accurate datum point from which to establish the normal operational idle speed. If idle
problems have been experienced, the base
idle speed should be checked as follows.
18
Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle
speed control valve and increase the engine
speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for
30 seconds, then fully release the throttle and
check if the base idle speed registered is as
specified.
19 If adjustment is necessary, prise free the
tamperproof plug using a suitable small
screwdriver to gain access to the base idle
speed adjustment screw in the throttle body.
Turn the screw in the required direction to
adjust the base idle speed to the specified
amount. Turning the screw anti-clockwise
increases the idle speed (see illustration).
20 Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm
again, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds,
then fully release the throttle once more.
Check and further adjust the base idle speed
if required, then fit a new tamperproof plug
into position.
21 Reconnect the idle speed control valve
multi-plug and check that the engine speed
briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops
down to the specified normal idle speed.
22 On completion, disconnect the
tachometer and the CO meter, but continue
running the engine at idle speed for a period
of about five minutes, to enable the engine
management module to relearn its values
before switching it off.
10 Steering, suspension and roadwheel check
2
Front suspension and steering
check
1Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
or deterioration (see illustrations) . Any wear
of these components will cause loss of
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•15
9.9d Idle speed mixture adjusting
screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLD carburettor)9.9c Idle speed mixture adjusting
screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw (B) (Weber DFTM carburettor)9.9b Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and
mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLDM carburettor)
10.2a Check the condition of the track rodend balljoint dust cover (arrowed)9.19 Base idle speed adjustment screw(arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine
9.16 Adjusting the idle mixture CO content on the 1.6 litre EFi engine
1
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lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,
resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints
or steering gear.
3Check the power-assisted steering fluid
hoses (where fitted) for chafing or
deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions
for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid
leakage under pressure from the steering gear
rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed
fluid seals within the steering gear.
4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very
slight free play may be felt, but if the
movement is appreciable, further investigation
is necessary to determine the source.
Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant
depresses the footbrake. If the movement is
now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is
likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the
free play is still evident with the footbrake
depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end
balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be
felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-
pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track
rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will
be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken
place.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the
mountings are made of rubber, but excessive
wear should be obvious. Also check the
condition of any visible rubber bushes,
looking for splits, cracks or contamination of
the rubber.
7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Rear suspension check
8
Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the rear roadwheels.
9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using
the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment
point. Some movement is to be expected, as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious. Check the
condition of the shock absorbers and their
bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the
leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking,
distortion, or other damage.
Roadwheel check and balancing
11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel
wheels may become dented or buckled.
Renewal of the wheel is very often the only
course of remedial action possible.
12 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained, not only to
avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid
wear in the steering and suspension
components. Wheel imbalance is normally
signified by vibration through the vehicle’s
bodyshell, although in many cases it is
particularly noticeable through the steering
wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that
wear or damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels and wheel bearing wear/
maladjustment also fall into this category.
Balancing will not usually cure vibration
caused by such wear.
13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with
the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so
that it may be refitted in its original position.
11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and
CV joint check
1
1The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very
important, because they prevent dirt, water
and foreign material from entering and
damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.
External contamination can cause the gaiter
material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a
good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and
water occasionally.
2 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on axle stands, turn the steering
onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front
wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the
outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber
gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the
folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or
deterioration of the rubber, which may allow
the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress
of water and grit into the joint (see
illustration) . Also check the security and
condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these
checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage
or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
renewed as described in Chapter 8.
3 At the same time, check the general
condition of the outer CV joints themselves,
by first holding the driveshaft and attempting
to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable
movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the
joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose
driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on
the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke
and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.
12 Exhaust system check
1
1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
1•16Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
11.2 Check the driveshaft gaiters by hand for cracks and/or leaking grease10.2c Check the condition of the steering rack gaiters10.2b Check the condition of the lowerarm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)
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if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not
exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently
to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting
tools are available from motor accessory shops,
or from certain spark plug manufacturers.
14Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves at the top of
the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean. Brown
staining on the porcelain, immediately above
the metal body, is quite normal, and does not
necessarily indicate a “leak” between the
body and insulator.
15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or
anti-seize compound to the threads of each
plug, and screw them in by hand where
possible. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
aluminium alloy.
16 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not
available - and this is one case where the use of
a torque wrench is strongly recommended -
tighten each spark plug through no more than
1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a
turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS
and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat
spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing
washer, and these in particular should NEVER
be overtightened - their tapered seats mean
they are almost impossible to remove if abused.
17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of
the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.
Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor
cap and rotor arm check
18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever the plugs themselves are renewed. Start by making a visual check of
the leads while the engine is running. In a
darkened garage (make sure there is
ventilation) start the engine and observe each
lead. Be careful not to come into contact with
any moving engine parts. If there is a break in
the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark
at the damaged area.
19
The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Each original lead should
be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the
number is illegible, a piece of tape can be
marked with the correct number, and
wrapped around the lead (the leads should be
numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the
timing belt end of the engine). The lead can
then be disconnected.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must
be renewed. Push the lead and boot back
onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length
of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil
by pressing together the plastic retaining
catches (where fitted) and pulling the end
fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion
and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct
measuring range is available, measure the
resistance of the disconnected lead from its
coil connector to its spark plug connector. If
the resistance recorded for any of the leads
exceeds the value specified, all the leads
should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to
the coil, noting that each coil terminal is
marked with its respective cylinder number,
so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads
and upsetting the firing order.
23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark
plug when the check is complete. If any sign
of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns,
cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new
spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.
If new spark plug leads are to be fitted,
remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid
mix-ups in the firing order. 24
On models with distributor ignition
systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the
distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag.
25 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no sign of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for
security and also for signs of deterioration as
described above.
27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B
on completion.
22 Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance
1
Note: The idle speed control valve may be
mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine
compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet
manifold according to valve make and year of
manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are
mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves
require the periodic maintenance described
below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted
valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are
maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in
Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.
1 Remove the valve as described in Chap-
ter 4C, Section 14.
2 Immerse the valve head in a suitable
container filled with clean petrol, and allow it
to soak for approximately three minutes.
3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with
petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then
gently move the piston up and down in its
bore using a small screwdriver (see
illustration) . Ensure that no cloth particles
enter the bore, and do not use the slots to
move the piston.
4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then
dry it using an air line (or other source of
compressed air).
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the
air filter housing then refit as described in
Chapter 4C, Section 14.
1•20Every 20 000 miles or two years
22.3 Gently move the idle speed control
valve piston up and down in its bore using
a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a
short piece of rubber hose over the end
of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint, to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage.
If new spark plug leads are tobe fitted, remove the leads
one at a time and fit each
new lead in exactly the same
position as the old one.
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25Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission.
As it is detached, note the washer located
between the stabiliser and the transmission.
Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of
the way.
Automatic transmission models
26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector
from the starter inhibitor switch (on the
transmission housing).
27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate)
cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit
(as applicable) at the transmission end of
the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and
detach the cable sheath bracket from the
transmission. Detach the cam plate cable
from the link.
28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable
bracket which connects it to the lever on the
selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the
lever on the selector shaft and the cable from
the lever.
29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect
the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the
transmission. Allow for a certain amount of
spillage, and plug the connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt.
All models
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and
detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod
end balljoints from the spindle carriers.
32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator
bracket.
33 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable
the driveshaft inboard end to separate
from the transmission. Once it is free,
suspend and support the driveshaft from the
steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain
being placed on the driveshaft joints.
34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
35 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of
the engine/transmission unit so that the
tension is relieved from the mountings.
37
Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and
detach the right-hand engine mounting from
the vehicle body.
38 Undo the four bolts securing the
transmission bearer to the underside of the
vehicle body. The transmission bearer is
removed with the engine/transmission
assembly.
39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from
under the crankshaft pulley.
40 The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission, and positioned out of the way.
41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady and guide the power unit down
through the engine compartment as it is
removed. If available, position a suitable
engine trolley or crawler board under the
engine/transmission so that when lowered,
the power unit can be withdrawn from the
front end of the vehicle, and then moved to
the area where it is to be cleaned and
dismantled. On automatic transmission
models, particular care must be taken not to
damage the transmission fluid pan (sump)
during the removal and subsequent refitting
processes.
42 Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
remove the power unit from under the vehicle.
43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
44 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting. c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system and, on catalytic converter
models, ensure that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1.
h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with reference to Chapter 5A.
i) Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10.
46 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
5 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
(Zetec engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs, in or near the work area,
and don’t work in a garage where a
natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes
dryer or water heater) is installed. If you
spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off
immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated
for petrol fires handy, and know how to
use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
4 Place protective covers on the wings, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil
(see Chapter 1).
6 Remove the air inlet components and the
complete air cleaner assembly as described in
Chapter 4D.
7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then release the fuel
feed and return quick-release couplings, and
pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap
all open fittings.
2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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39With the drivebelt tensioned correctly,
tighten the pivot and adjuster bolts to the
specified torque. Re-check the tension of the
drivebelt after tightening the bolts.
40 Reconnect the rigid brake pipes to the
modulator, tightening the unions to seal the
system.
41 Refit the modulator drivebelt cover and
secure with its two retaining bolts. Take care
not to damage the driveshaft CV joint gaiter as
the cover is eased into position.
42 Refit the belt-break switch to the
modulator drivebelt cover, taking care not to
damage the belt contact arm as it passes
through the cover.
43 Reconnect the modulator return hose by
pushing the hose firmly into its brake fluid
reservoir location, then lever out the collar to
retain it.
44 Refit the front suspension crossmember
and the one-piece undertray, as applicable.
45 Refit the roadwheels, then remove the
axle stands and lower the vehicle to the
ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
46 Top-up the brake fluid reservoir using
fresh fluid of the specified type (see “ Weekly
checks ”), then bleed the brake hydraulic
system in accordance with Section 14. Refit
the reservoir filler cap and the warning
indicator wiring multi-plug on completion.
47 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Modulator drivebelt
48Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
49 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
50 Remove the one-piece undertray where
fitted, by turning its bayonet-type fasteners,
and on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember (see Chapter 10).
51 Remove the belt-break switch from the
relevant drivebelt cover, then remove the
drivebelt cover, as described in the previous
sub-Section.
52 Slacken the modulator pivot and adjuster
bolts to release drivebelt tension, then slip the
drivebelt from the modulator.
53 Remove the track rod end balljoint from
the steering arm on the spindle carrier (see
Chapter 10).
54 Disconnect the anti-roll bar connecting
link (where applicable) and release the brake
hose from their locations on the suspension
strut.
55 Remove the pinch bolt and nut securing
the lower suspension arm balljoint to the
spindle carrier, and separate the balljoint from
the spindle carrier assembly.
56 To release the driveshaft inner CV joint
from the differential, have an assistant pull the
spindle carrier away from the centre of the
vehicle whilst you insert a lever between the
inner CV joint and the transmission casing,
then firmly strike the lever with the flat of the hand, but be careful not to damage adjacent
components. Make provision for escaping
transmission oil, if possible plugging the
opening to prevent excessive loss. Do not
allow the CV joints to bend more than 20°
from the horizontal or internal damage may
occur. If both driveshafts are to be removed,
immobilise the differential by inserting an old
joint or suitable shaft, before the other
driveshaft is removed.
57
Slide the drivebelt off the driveshaft.
58 Remove the snap-ring from the groove in
the splines of the inner CV joint. This snap-
ring must be renewed every time the
driveshaft is withdrawn from the differential.
59 With the drivebelt removed, closely
examine the condition of the belt over its
entire length. Renew the belt if any cracks are
noticed in the fabric at the roots of the teeth, if
there is any abrasion of the fabric facing
material, or if there are any tears starting from
the edge of the belt.
60 If, since the drivebelts were last renewed,
a vehicle has covered more than 30 000 miles
(48 000 km) or a period of more than two
years has elapsed, the drivebelts should be
renewed as a matter of course.
61 Prior to refitting the drivebelt, thoroughly
clean its CV joint pulley location.
62 Fit the drivebelt over the driveshaft then,
with a new snap-ring fitted to the inner CV
joint splines, lubricate the splines with
transmission oil. Remove the temporary plug
and insert the inner CV joint to its
transmission casing location. Press against
the spindle carrier so that the snap-ring
engages fully to hold the CV joint splines in
the differential.
63 Refitting is now a reversal of the removal
procedure, tensioning the drivebelt as
described in the previous sub-Section. Ensure
that the pinch-bolt securing the lower
suspension arm balljoint to the spindle carrier
locates in the annular groove on the balljoint
spindle. Secure the track rod and balljoint,
using a new split pin. Tighten the suspension
components to their specified torque (see
Chapter 10).
64 Check the level of the transmission oil,
and top-up as required (see Chapter 1).
Modulator belt-break switch
65 Modulator belt-break switches are fitted
to each of the two drivebelt covers, and clip
into position. To remove, gently squeeze the
protruding lever on the switch towards the
main switch body and lift out, ensuring that
the belt contact arm does not catch on the
drivebelt cover.
25 Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - adjustment
3
1Before attempting to adjust the load-
apportioning valves, the vehicle must be at its
kerb weight, ie with approximately half a tank
of fuel and carrying no load. Note that a
special setting tool will be required to adjust
the valves - this can be fabricated, to the
dimensions shown (see illustration).
2 Raise the vehicle on ramps or drive it over
an inspection pit, so that working clearance is
obtained with the full weight of the vehicle
resting on its roadwheels. Remove the spare
wheel and its carrier.
3 To check adjustment, insert the load-
apportioning valve setting tool into the nylon
sleeve without pre-loading the valve. If unable
to insert the tool, carry out the following
adjustment procedure.
4 Slacken the operating link adjustment fixing
screw then insert the setting tool into the
nylon sleeve, applying light pressure to the
operating link upper arm, so that the setting
tool fully locates. With the setting tool just
resting up against the adjustment post,
tighten the operating link adjustment fixing
screw to the specified torque (see
illustration) .
5 Repeat the procedure on the other valve.
6 Refit the spare wheel on completion.
26 Load-apportioning valve
(ABS models) - removal and
refitting
3
1 Minimise hydraulic fluid loss by
disconnecting the wiring multi-plug from the
fluid level warning indicator in the master
9•16 Braking system
25.4 Load-apportioning valve adjustment
A Setting tool
B Operating link adjustment fixing screw
C Adjustment post
25.1 Load-apportioning valve adjustment tool (dimensions given in mm)
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10
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Wheel alignment and steering angles
Front wheel toe setting:Pre-1990 models: Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 mm toe-out to 3.0 mm toe-in (0°30’ toe-out to 0°30’ toe-in)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Parallel ± 1.0 mm (0° ± 0°10’)
1990 models onward: All models except Turbo:
Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \
. . 4.5 mm toe-out to 0.5 mm toe-in (0°45’ toe-out to 0°05’ toe-in)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm toe-out ± 1.0 mm (0°20’ toe-out ± 0°10’)
Turbo models:
Tolerance allowed before resetting required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \
. . 4.0 mm toe-out to parallel (0°40’ toe-out to 0°0’)
Adjustment setting (if required) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm toe-out ± 1.0 mm (0°20’ toe-out ± 0°10’)
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Front hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front spindle carrier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Front suspension crossmember - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 7
Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Front suspension strut - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . 5
Front suspension strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Power steering fluid cooler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Rear axle (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 12
Rear axle pivot bushes (all models except Courier) - renewal . . . . . 13
Rear hub bearings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear shock absorber (Courier models) - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 16 Rear strut (all models except Courier) - dismantling, examination
and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 11
Rear strut (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . 10
Rear suspension anti-roll bar (all models except Courier) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Rear suspension assembly (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . 17
Rear suspension components (Courier models) - general . . . . . . . . 15
Rear suspension ride height (Courier models) - adjustment . . . . . . . 18
Steering column (manual steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 20
Steering column (power steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 21
Steering gear (manual steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 23
Steering gear (power steering) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Suspension and steering check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Track rod end balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Tyre condition and pressure checks . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”
Wheel alignment and steering angles - general information . . . . . . . 29
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Roadwheels
Wheel types and sizes (dependent on model):Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 4.5, 13 x 5, 13 x 5.5
Alloy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 5.5, 14 x 5.5
Tyres
Tyre sizes (dependent on model) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 R 13, 145 R 13, 155/70 R 13, 165/55 R 13, 165/65 R 13, 175/60 R 13, 185/55 R 14 or 185/60 R 13
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front suspension
Hub/driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 to 235 151 to 173
Lower arm balljoint-to-spindle carrier pinch bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 60 35 to 44
Front suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Anti-roll bar link to front suspension strut nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar link to anti-roll bar nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar retaining clamp bolts to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21
Front suspension strut top-mount retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 52 30 to 38
Front suspension strut spring retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 to 65 38 to 48
Front suspension crossmember bolts (XR2i only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Lower arm to lower arm mounting bracket bolts (using torque-to-yield
method with vehicle standing on its wheels): Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Slacken completely
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90°
Rear suspension (all models except Courier)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Rear axle to body mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Rear axle trailing arm bush bolt* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Rear strut top-mount retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 to 40 20 to 30
Rear strut-to-axle mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Rear strut spring retaining through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar front mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar rear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 113 65 to 83
Load-apportioning valve operating link to axle beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
*Torque to be measured from the bolt head (not the nut)
Rear suspension (Courier models)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Shock absorber upper mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Shock absorber lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Rear suspension mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Manual steering
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 57 to 72
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 68 42 to 50
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 55 33 to 40
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 14 7 to 10
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 56 33 to 41
Power steering
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8462
Steering gear fluid pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3123
Steering gear flexible coupling pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5138
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2619
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6346
Steering pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
Steering pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
High pressure fluid pipe to pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6548
High pressure fluid pipe coupling joint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1713
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Roadwheel nuts
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
10•2 Suspension and steering
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