1989 FORD FIESTA bonnet

SEFi fuel injection models
7Disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring
multi-plug (see illustration) .
8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the
flexible rubber intake hose from the black
plastic air intake duct (see illustration).
9 Undo the retaining screws or release the
clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete
with mass air flow sensor (see illustration).
All models
10Lift out the element, and wipe out the
housing (see illustrations) . Check that no
foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet
or in the air mass meter, as applicable.
11 If carrying out a routine service, the
element must be renewed regardless of its
apparent condition. Note that on models so
equipped, the small foam PCV filter in the rear
right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing
must be cleaned whenever the air filter
element is renewed (see Section 25).
12 If you are checking the element for any
other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is
oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is
only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after
blowing it clean from the upper to the lower
surface with compressed air. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Because it is a pleated-paper
type filter, it cannot be washed
or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air,
discard and renew it.
Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the
air cleaner filter element removed.
Excessive engine wear could result, and
backfiring could even cause a fire under
the bonnet.
13
Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the element and cover
are securely seated, so that unfiltered air
cannot enter the engine.Air cleaner temperature control
system check (carburettor
models)
14 In order for the engine to operate
efficiently, the temperature of the air entering
the inlet system must be controlled within
certain limits.
15 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one
direct from the outside of the engine
compartment, and the other from a shroud on
the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a
wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a
flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the
ambient air temperature is below a
predetermined level, the flap admits air
heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as
the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens
to admit more cool air from the engine
compartment until eventually it is fully open. A
similar system is used on CVH engines,
except that a vacuum actuator modifies any opening or closing action of the temperature
sensor on the flap valve, according to the level
of the inlet manifold vacuum under running
conditions.
HCS engines
16
This check must be made when the
engine is cold. Detach and remove the air
cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of
the check valve within the duct. When the
underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC,
the valve must be open to allow hot air to
enter the filter (see illustration) .
17 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine
and run it until it reaches its normal operating
temperature, then stop the engine, remove
the inlet trunking and check that the valve has
closed off the air passage from the exhaust
and opened the main (cool) air inlet.
18 If the flap does not operate correctly,
check that it is not seized. Apart from this
there is no adjustment possible, and the unit
should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet
trunking on completion.
CVH engines
19 This check must be made when the
engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet
duct, and visibly check that the flap to the
hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage
of cold air).
20 Start the engine, and check that with the
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•23
24.9 . . . then undo the retaining screws or
release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor24.8 . . . slacken the hose clip and
disconnect the intake hose from the air intake duct . . .24.7 On SEFi fuel injection engines,
disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug . . .
24.16 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe HCS engine
A Main air cleaner inlet (cool air)
B Warm air duct (flap open)
24.10b . . . and on EFi and SEFi fuel injection engine models24.10a Removing the air filter element oncarburettor engine models . . .
1
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(see illustration). Centralise the seal on the
shaft, then insert and tighten the housing
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
Refit the sump with reference to Section 11.
12 Check that the crankshaft rear flange
and the flywheel mating faces are clean, then
refit the flywheel as described in Section 16.
15 Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and
renewal
2
Inspection
1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Position
a jack under the sump, with a large block of
wood between the jack head and the sump,
then carefully raise the engine/transmission
just enough to take the weight off the
mountings.
4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5
Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the
engine/transmission or body (use a large
screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the
mountings). If movement is noted, lower the
engine and check-tighten the mounting
fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine right-hand mounting
8
Unscrew and remove the mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch
(see illustration) .
9 Unscrew and remove the mounting
retaining nut and washer from the suspension
strut cup retaining plate (see illustration).
10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting unit to the cylinder block. The
mounting unit and bracket can then be
lowered from the engine (see illustration).
11 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its
support bracket.
Transmission bearer and mountings
12 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer (see illustration).
13 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
2A•10 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
15.12 Exploded view of the transmission bearer mountings
15.10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting assembly to the cylinder block
and withdraw the mounting
15.9 Unscrew and remove the mountingretaining nut and washer from the
suspension strut cup retaining plate15.8 Unscrew and remove the engine
mounting side bolt (arrowed) from under the wheel arch14.11b Fitting the rear oil seal housing
with a new gasket in position on the rear face of the cylinder block
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4Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine front right-hand mounting
8 This mounting consists of a two-piece
bracket bolted to the inner wing panel,
connected by the bonded-rubber mounting
itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the
alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder
block (see illustration) .
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front
right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket.
10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis
rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.
Engine rear right-hand mounting
11 This mounting consists of the bonded-
rubber mounting secured to the inner wing
panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from
within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the
retaining nut of which is accessible from the
engine compartment. The mounting is bolted
to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the
cylinder block.
12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch.
13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder
block bracket and withdraw the mounting
assembly.
Transmission bearer and mountings
14 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10.
15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer
16 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
17 To remove the mountings from the
transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and
lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts
(rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant
mounting and bracket assembly from the
transmission.
All mountings
18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.
17 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4
Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.
Inspection
7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 15) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft speed/
position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and
check that the sensor is securely fastened.
Refitting
10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/
transmission adapter plate is in place (where
necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to
the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it
will fit only one way - check this using the
marks made on removal. Do not forget the
reinforcing plate (automatic transmission
models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
16.8 Engine front right-hand mounting
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3Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and engine oil. Refit the drain plug to
the sump on completion.
4 Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 11.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the following coolant hoses. Allow for coolant
spillage as the hoses are detached
(see
illustrations) :
a) All hoses at the thermostat housing.
b) Bottom hose from the radiator to the
water pump.
c) Heater hoses at the bulkhead and water
pump.
d) Inlet manifold coolant supply hose (where
applicable).
7 Disconnect the fuel trap vacuum hose from
the inlet manifold.
8 Disconnect the brake servo unit vacuum
hose from the inlet manifold, by pushing the
hose retainer in towards the manifold and
simultaneously pulling free the hose (see
illustration) .
9 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for
details, and detach the accelerator cable.
Where applicable, detach the choke cable
from the carburettor.
10 Compress the quick-release couplings at
the sides, and detach the fuel supply hose
and return hose from the fuel pump, CFi unit
or fuel rail (see illustration) . Allow for fuel
spillage as the hoses are disconnected, and
plug the exposed ends to prevent further spillage and the ingress of dirt. Position the
hoses out of the way.
11
Note their locations and disconnect the
wiring connectors from the following (see
illustrations) :
a) Coolant temperature gauge sender unit.
b) The oil pressure switch.
c) The radio earth lead.
d) The cooling fan thermostatic switch.
e) The DIS/E-DIS ignition coil.
f) The crankshaft speed/position sensor.
g) The engine coolant temperature sensor.
h) The idle cut-off valve.
12 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor
(where fitted) in the exhaust manifold or
downpipe.
13 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
14 Unscrew the retaining nuts, and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust
manifold. Remove the seal from the joint
flange.
15 Refer to Chapter 5A for details, and
remove the starter motor.
16 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the clutch lower cover plate.
17 Unscrew the retaining bolt, and
detach the gearshift stabiliser from the
transmission.
18 Unscrew and remove the engine/
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•7
3.8 Detach the servo vacuum hose from
the manifold3.6b Disconnect the bottom hose (A) andthe heater hose (B) from the water pump3.6a Disconnect the overflow hose (A) and the top hose (B) from the thermostat housing
3.11b Engine crankshaft position sensorand multi-plug
3.11a Wiring connections to the HCS engine
A Idle cut-off valve
B DIS ignition coil
C Engine coolant temperature sensor
D Oil pressure switch
3.10 Fuel supply (A) and return (B) hose connections at the fuel pump
2D
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Whenever you disconnect any vacuum
lines, coolant or emissions hoses,
wiring connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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transmission flange attachment bolts (see
illustration) .
19 Check that the appropriate underside
attachments are disconnected and out of the
way, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from
the exhaust manifold.
21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is
possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect
the hoist to the engine, but make sure that
they are strong enough, and connect them to
the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonally-
opposite ends of the engine.
22 With the hoist securely connected, take
the weight of the engine. Unscrew and
remove the right-hand engine mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining
nut and washer from the suspension strut cup
retaining plate, and the three bolts securing
the mounting unit to the cylinder block.
23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and
raise it to take the weight of the transmission.
24 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the
upper flange.
25 Check around the engine to ensure that all
of the relevant fixings and attachments are
disconnected and out of the way for the
removal.
26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move
the engine sideways and away from the
transmission, whilst simultaneously raising
the transmission. When the engine is
separated from the transmission, carefully
guide it up and out of the engine
compartment. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the transmission input shaft
at any point during the removal (or refitting) of
the engine. When the engine sump is clear
of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the
way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available).
Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be
necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and
out of the way in order to allow the engine to
be lowered for removal. In this instance,
ensure that the weight of the transmission is
well supported as the vehicle is moved.
27 While the engine is removed, check the
mountings; renew them if they are worn or
damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all
coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally
hidden can now be checked properly, and
should be renewed if there is any doubt at all
about their condition. Also, take the
opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components disturbed on removal, and renew
any that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
28
Refitting is in general, a reversal of the
removal procedure, but the following special
points should be noted.
29 Before coupling the engine to the
transmission, apply a thin smear of high-
melting-point grease onto the transmission
input shaft splines. If the clutch has been
removed, ensure that the clutch disc is
centralised, and disconnect the clutch cable
from the release lever on the transmission
casing.
30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended
torque wrench settings.
31 Check that the mating faces are clean,
and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold
gasket and self-locking nuts when
reconnecting this joint.
32 Ensure that all wiring connections are
correctly and securely made.
33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines
before reconnecting them correctly and
securely.
34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and
choke cables as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air
cleaner components are also given in that
Chapter.
35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or
retaining clips) that are not in good condition.
36 Refer to Chapter 6 for details on
reconnecting the clutch cable.
37 When the engine is fully refitted, check
that the various hoses are connected, and
then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels
as described in Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”.
38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to
Section 19 for the engine start-up procedures.
4 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting (CVH and
PTE engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 On all fuel injection engines, refer to
Chapter 4B, C or D as applicable and
depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug
to the sump on completion.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove
the bonnet.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as described in the relevant
Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the
coolant top hose, the heater hose and the
radiator overflow hose from the thermostat
housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from
the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from
the water pump and/or the radiator (see
illustrations) . On 1.4 litre CFi fuel injection
models, also disconnect the coolant hose
from the injection unit. On EFi and SEFi fuel
injection models, detach the heater hose
Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the
hoses are detached. On turbocharged
engines, disconnect the coolant return hose
from the turbocharger connecting pipe.
2D•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6b Heater coolant hoses and Y-connector on 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection models4.6a Coolant hose connections to the thermostat (arrowed)
3.18 Engine-to-transmission flangeattachment bolts (arrowed)
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25Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission.
As it is detached, note the washer located
between the stabiliser and the transmission.
Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of
the way.
Automatic transmission models
26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector
from the starter inhibitor switch (on the
transmission housing).
27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate)
cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit
(as applicable) at the transmission end of
the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and
detach the cable sheath bracket from the
transmission. Detach the cam plate cable
from the link.
28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable
bracket which connects it to the lever on the
selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the
lever on the selector shaft and the cable from
the lever.
29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect
the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the
transmission. Allow for a certain amount of
spillage, and plug the connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt.
All models
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and
detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod
end balljoints from the spindle carriers.
32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator
bracket.
33 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable
the driveshaft inboard end to separate
from the transmission. Once it is free,
suspend and support the driveshaft from the
steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain
being placed on the driveshaft joints.
34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
35 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of
the engine/transmission unit so that the
tension is relieved from the mountings.
37
Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and
detach the right-hand engine mounting from
the vehicle body.
38 Undo the four bolts securing the
transmission bearer to the underside of the
vehicle body. The transmission bearer is
removed with the engine/transmission
assembly.
39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from
under the crankshaft pulley.
40 The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission, and positioned out of the way.
41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady and guide the power unit down
through the engine compartment as it is
removed. If available, position a suitable
engine trolley or crawler board under the
engine/transmission so that when lowered,
the power unit can be withdrawn from the
front end of the vehicle, and then moved to
the area where it is to be cleaned and
dismantled. On automatic transmission
models, particular care must be taken not to
damage the transmission fluid pan (sump)
during the removal and subsequent refitting
processes.
42 Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
remove the power unit from under the vehicle.
43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
44 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting. c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system and, on catalytic converter
models, ensure that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1.
h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with reference to Chapter 5A.
i) Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10.
46 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
5 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
(Zetec engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs, in or near the work area,
and don’t work in a garage where a
natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes
dryer or water heater) is installed. If you
spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off
immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated
for petrol fires handy, and know how to
use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
4 Place protective covers on the wings, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil
(see Chapter 1).
6 Remove the air inlet components and the
complete air cleaner assembly as described in
Chapter 4D.
7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then release the fuel
feed and return quick-release couplings, and
pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap
all open fittings.
2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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3
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Coolant
Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
See Chapter 1
System pressure
Pressure test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bars - should hold this pressure for at least 10 seconds
Expansion tank filler cap
Pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 bars approximately - see cap for actual value
Thermostat
Starts to open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 85ºC to 89ºC
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance:At 0ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 to 102 kilohms
At 20ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 kilohms
At 100ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.5 kilohms
At 120ºC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 to 1.4 kilohms
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 6
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7
Radiator electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1
Water pump (CVH and PTE engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . 9
Water pump (HCS engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Water pump (Zetec engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Thermostat housing to cylinder head: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 9 7
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 107.5
Water pump retaining bolts: HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1813
Coolant temperature gauge sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4
Coolant temperature sensor: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2317
CVH engines: 1.4 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1914
1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 1511
PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1511
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Radiator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 27 15 to 20
Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 5 2 to 4
Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator . . . . 17 to 21 13 to 16
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
Engine cooling system
The cooling system is of the pressurised
type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump. When the engine is cold, the coolant
circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to
the radiator. As the coolant circulates
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated. When the engine is at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan, mounted behind
the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.
Heating/ventilation system
The heating system consists of a blower fan
and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.
Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep
hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.
2 Antifreeze -
general information
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding. The cooling system should be filled with a
water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point. The cooling system should be maintained
according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.
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